fordomsfull

Hi guys!
I just want to on forehand excuse me for my bad english, It´s not my native language. (I´m from Sweden.)
Back to the topic:
I have a Mercedes w124 260e -92 that is giving me a hard time. All of a sudden it started to stall when the enginge got hot. It stalls when I try to accelerate for about 30ish sec but then it just kind of let me go and it runs just fine until I stop for a red light, it almost die but manage to stay alive. I try to rev it out but it wont let me for a couple of sec and then it works just fine again, untill next stop.
I´ve changed the spark plugs (Bosch HR 8 DC), wires, rotor, ignition cap, coil and the temperature sensor to the engine computer. With no luck.
Does anyone have a solution or maybe an idea of what it can be? I´m tired of just throwing money at the car and hope for luck.
Best regards
Rasmus

Saijin_Naib

How cold is it by you?

On really, really cold days of 0F (-17C) and below, the car will start and drive normally for about 5-15 minutes. Then, if I stop, the car will stall.

It takes about 30 minutes for this to go away. On days that are a bit warmer, like 18F and above (-7C), it'll be just fine!

fordomsfull

It´s not that bad, it´s around 0-C and 10-C. It goes like a rocket when cold, then not that good.

// Rasmus

optimusprime m1

Can you clean the fuses ,just give them a turn in there locators. Also check all conections under the hood. And all earth leads want removing that are going to the body and put a little grease under them to make a good contact. Battery leads want cleaning and a little grease on them to make a good contact .Dont forget if you remove these you may loose your radio code . Its hard not being there, to see the fault. Just checks that i would do. May be the distributor brass contacts in the top of the distributer cap wants cleaning . The distributer cap might even want replacing, as they wear when they distribute the spark. And in the top of distributor is a carbon contact ,these wear Or the rotor arm wants a clean, or replacing due to wear. Its just trial and elimination. The age of spark plugs are another item that wants looking in to. Good luck ,please let us know how you get on with your car.

fordomsfull

The spark plugs, distributor cap, cables, rotor and coil are already switched out. The fuses are checked and looks good.
Though I switched out the spark plugs again tonight to NGK-BP6EFS, without any luck, the other ones hade a funny smell though.
Tomorrow I will remove the catalytic converter and see if it might be plugged up.
Anyone know about any sensor that happens to be bad?
Thanks
Rasmus

optimusprime m1

Hi , Another thing is your petrol filter .Now this is an easy fix if you can use a spanner. The filter will starve your system of petrol ,to a point of stopping then ,as you remove your foot from the gas pedal it will keep on running .This can be a mess when you remove the old one as petrol will escape so very be carefull. .. As for your cat i would not know i have a stainless right through.

fordomsfull

I just changed the fuel filter with no sucess.
I also found a 30$ ignition module, that I also switched out and still no sucess.

optimusprime m1

A new distributor cap and rotor is the way. They do wear inside and also the carbon in the centre might not be contacting 100% . And inside the distributer cap on the brass segments do you have burning marks ,and also on the brass of the rotor.See these parts get warm and expand so the spark as to jump from the one to the other. You talk about it cutting out when hot.This could be due to expanding of rotor and cap.

optimusprime m1

Next thing to try. When it stops, pull a plug lead off, pop in an old plug , and see if it fires . You can also buy a plug tester for bucks ,i have just had one for mine.it cuts out a lot of guess work. Then if you have no spark ,you can look at the electrics again. Dont do the plug test without rubber gloves and stand on a rubber mat, or i wont be hear from you anymore ha ha

Marcel107

Hi Rasmus,

did you check the ÜSR (Overvoltageprotection relais). The solderjoint inside wear out. Buy a new one and change it. It is located behind the Battery. Also the Fuelpumprelais is a potenial part to have old solderjoints.

Best regards from Cologne Germany

optimusprime m1

The OPR as two fuses on the top , check that both fuses are ok. And the relay that Marcel is talking about is located at the rear of battery at the back of the plastic membrain .Also close to it is the fuel pump relay.It is possible to take the top of the relay [not the OPR] the fuel relay,and repair it . Or pick another up for spare,and swap it out .This problem looks is intermitant. So will be trial and error,to find the fault.

optimusprime m1

Any luck with the problem .The OVP will produce a lot of problems .I keep one in the glove box in case of brakedown . Do you still think its the gearbox?