OnlyOutlaw

Hello,

Going to cover several things here and summarize from all the research that I've gathered after 3 weeks.

I have an 87' 300e that will only start when I use Starting Fluid and then die immediately afterwards.

Here's what I've done so far.

Fuel Pressure T/S

Replaced Fuel Filter

Replaced Fuel Pump Relay

New Gas Tank(no rust on the inside)

OVP Relay was replaced about 2 years ago when it had problems before,not sure how to test it,but since it's been sitting for a year, and I only put about 4-5k on it with the new OVP Relay, I'm sure it's fine right?

I'm not quite sure where to hook up a Fuel Pressure Tester on this car tbh, any help would be great, if someone could circle one of the pictures I uploaded to show me, I'd be soooo grateful.


Rough Idle Issue When She Did Run

I just bought a new O2 Sensor because I had some idle issues before it died on me completely. The one I have is rusted to hell, so waiting for my PB blaster to sit a little longer and going to try to remove it again with the Crow socket.

Going to probably need to check the spray pattern on the fuel filters or just replace them completely, for rough idle.

Going to clean the ICV, just not sure whats best to use when I clean it? I watched riffraffjazz on youtube, he just puts it in a bucket, but I have no idea what it is.

Starting Issues

Replaced Sparkwires

Replaced Sparkplugs

Replaced Distributor Cap

I just bought a new Crankshaft Position Sensor, but it's not the one I needed, I don't think, you tell me? Autohausaz (Beru 11428395-0021531328.) Since the one I think I need is about $185, I'm thinking I might try to pull one from a scrap yard, but, it might be best to buy a new one?


Crankshaft Position Sensor Location??

Additionally, I can't find either one of these?!?! The manual from the site below is very vague. It's just a picture, I looked at 3 or 4 articles covering it on this site and another, but, it just says to remove the oil filter to see it from the top of the engine, near the firewall and back of engine OR look from the bottom and move the starter slightly out of the way, and you will see it.

I can't find it! I feel like it might be loose not bolted down all the way, because, reading a few other articles, that's what they found and the car started right up.

http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/M...03/15-2133.pdf

Since I bought the wrong one on Autohausaz, I figured I might as well keep the new one and install it. Autohausaz describes it as being connected to a pulley up front, but I can't find where it goes either.



Vacuum Issue

Pretty sure I have every hose connected accept one, I found this just hanging by the starter when I was looking for the Crankshaft Position Senor.

I'm thinking hose is off Fuel Regulator Valve to Air cleaner housing, but , just not sure.

Does anyone have any idea where this goes? Picture below with the yellow circle.


Can't Adjust CO/Fuel Mixture

I can't get the "valve" that you put your allen head/flat head to loosen up. It's stuck. I hit it with a bit of WD40 and PB blaster, took a small hammer and a fine blunt object and hammered it in just a bit, and it started to recces just a little, but didn't come back up, so I let it be for now. Any ideas? I mean, before the rough idle and the car dying on me before, the car ran fine, so I might not even need to mess with this. If I have to remove the entire unit, I will, just hoping I don't have to, I don't want to saturate it with fluids if I don't need either.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I know there are tons of threads with the w124, just needing an OVP, Fuel Pump Relay, new fuel filter, etc being the fix, but nothing thus far has worked for me.

I'm praying it's not the Fuel Accumulator, Crankshaft Position Sensor, or Fuel Pressure regulator, because they are all expensive as s***.


TL : DR
If someone could point out where the CPS, both front and back are, show me where this one hose goes to, and show me where to connect a fuel pressure tester on this engine. I'd be forever in your debt!

optimusprime m1

Well for a start i would spray the lot with WD40 Earth points are doing nothing and need cleaning up, and then re grease the bolts as you refit them. If fuses sre in the same condition they will want cleaning and WD 40 on the end of the fuse and wipe it off after.Then refit the fuses , but do it one at a time or you will mix them up.And yes you have a vacuum leak, the one on the inlet manifold wants finding and the pipe fitting back on. I know the pipe thats missing on the inlet manifold but with out looking dont know where the other part is connected to .But i can find it out for you .

optimusprime m1

You can do a Google search on this, to see all pictures.
Put in Google search box - Pelican Parts M103 Vacuum Diagram anyone? ........ Good pictures

OnlyOutlaw

I appreciate the feedback so far, I have not had a chance to work on the car with the holidays. I've been busy working overtime how to make extra money to fix the car.

Since all of the parts were from 1986 and still OEM I decided to replace the fuel filter, fuel pump, and fuel accumulator. I also bought 6 brand new fuel injectors with the rubber seals. I took off the alternator to have a look at the voltage regulator and the metal pretty disintegrated in my hand so I just bought a new alternator and in turn that has the new voltage regulator in it. With that I need to go ahead and any serpentine belt on tonight as well.

I will make sure to provide an update tonight or tomorrow.

optimusprime m1

Outlaw you will find a camera will come in handy .Take pics as you go along .So you can find how things go back together . Any problem just ask .One thing is the pully holding tool you will need to hold the pully as you remove the bolts. Just done both mine tensioner and pump

OnlyOutlaw

Bigger problem, I broke the "steel tower" that lets you adjust your CO/Fuel mixture. While loosening one of the fuel lines to replace the fuel injectors, I broke the tower. How important is that part to running the vehicle? Will I have to replace the entire throttle body? Please say no...
When I bought my new alternator, it didn't come with pulley, I dod some research whole I was there and learned I needed the tool you mentioned.

I still can't find where the vacuum line leads to that's in the back, behind the throttle body/next to the 6th fuel injector. Does it run under the throttle body, to one of the hoses at the front of the engine block/next to the engine valve cover?

Lastly, I was able to get the new fuel accumulator on, but couldn't get the bolt on the top fuel pump to break, so I still have both old fuel pumps on for now. I used 2 17mm wrenches one to hold in place, the other to try to break the bolt and still wouldn't budge. Going to let some PB blaster sit there for the night and try again.
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Thanks for the help!

optimusprime m1

Yes the vacuum pipe fits on the small tube that is in the inlet manifold sticking up in red .The pully will need removing from your old alternator .And fitting to the new one ,use thread lock on the pully nut... For the pumps i know people have had to remove them to get the accumulator free on the bench.. As for the tower i an not quite clear in to whats broken off .Can you post a picture up. If its what i think it is its only a guide for the key , or driver tool to do the adjustment .

optimusprime m1

onlyoutlaw good news the turret can be replaced if you have to .see picture