mb300eromeo

You've got to put it up on a lift to see it. What happens there are these rubber bushings on the arms that damper any suspension noise once everything is connected. Those bushing started to crack allowing the control arm to move a little while you're driving, creating that swaying effect when you get up to highway speeds. Happened to me on the way to my dealership, so I threw it on a lift and had a tech throw new ones on there.

E55Cent

Thank you, do you have any idea what two front control arms and ball joints would cost me with parts and labor?
Thank you again

Ala-benz

The local dealer quoted me $600 to replace my lower control arm bushings (usually the culprit with bad front control arms.) That included the front end alignment that is required after the replacement. I am guessing that the ball joints would add another $150-$200. Keep in mind that this is a dealer in a small city (Huntsville, AL) and labor rates vary widely depending on where you live.

mb300eromeo

Keep in mind the dealer I work at is in Queens, NY, so the price will probably be higher here. But is was 5 hours of labor (2 per arm, 1 for the ball joints) plus parts. So in total it was about $1600 to do both. But it was well worth it. Depending on the milage you drive and where you drive (NY is killer on suspensions) you'll get another 100k out of those.

mb300eromeo

If you can get to Beverly Hills Mercedes, there are two advisors there named Gus and Rolando. They graduated from the MB Elite Service Advisor program with me. They may be able to help you out. Tell them Karl sent you.

E55Cent

Thank you for the info. I just purchased some on Ebay and it should cost me a total of $400 with install and including new control arms, bushing and ball joints. I may do the labor my self if I don't get my bonus. If I do the work my self it will only cost me $130 to do the whole job. I have done the labor on this exact job on my BMW 540, it is a common problem on BMW's.
$1600 does seem a bit high to me, but if fixed the problem then it might have been worth it.
So do you think the bad bushing and ball joints was making your car do the "sway thing"?
Thanks
Mario

mb300eromeo

Yeah that was definately it. Common problems for a commuter to NYC. Driving home the next day you could feel the difference. The suspension felt tight and smooth. Definately an improvement.

My next goal is to take care of the rust that's appearing at the end of my roof rack. Both sides. That will be a fun job.

MB_E430

The List: 1998 E430 Dessert Silver 113,000 miles

-First was new starter
-Got the dreaded wiper vibration at 60 plus real embarrassing and loud (what is the fix anyone?)
-A/C regulator not properly controlling air temp unit was replaced
-Window Regulator right rear replaced
-Sun roof and windows always out of synch and will not close properly without pumping the buttons
-Constant bulb replacements lost count of outside lights failing just bought three last week
-Noticed wiring to one of the headlamps crumbles like it's rotting
-Trunk switch don't work
-Front brake pads replaced at least 3 times per year yes I drive too fast it's an 8 cyl Benz not a toyota it needs to breathe. I think the metering valve needs adjustment or replaced because I almost never change rear pads.
-Limiter prevents me from exceeding 140 mph so I can buy more pads
-Was told lower control arm bushings are bad
-Gear shifter is real loose dealer said it needed a new bushing?
-Head light cover hazed over
-Clear coat starting to go
-Lighting is dim on the cosole so you cannot see part of instrument cluster this happened before then fixed itself but now I cannot read the tachometer.
-Replaced all fuel control devices (pump and sensor?)
-Rough idle was fixed by replacing motor mounts
-New rough idle I have 113,000 miles so I'm guessing duh it's time for plugs (got a cheap source?)
-Now my biggest problem is an oil leak at the front of engine. At first it appeared to be coming from the top left side a MB mechanic told me there was a plate up there with an O-ring type seal. Well, I had it at the dealer after the fuel delivery system failed and asked them to check it. HAHHAHA they want $3000 to fix it and now after they looked at it leaks like a pig and smells like a pig from the burning oil. The car is now banished to parking on the street because of the oil stains

That's it off the top my head and hope that's it for awhile because my extended warranty expired!

Gomez153

damn thats a hooopty (LOL)

carlsson9

I've done the bush twice for the gear shifter. the part's pretty cheap, and labour is easy..gear shifter feels like new.

when the head light lense are hazy, order new lenses to replace them, like what i did.

in terms of your broken seals, its prob time for a top overhaul?

MB_E430

Thanks Carlsson9

Where did you get the new lenses? I was told the entire assembly must be replaced something around $400/Each I think. As for the oil leak at $3000 I don't know I need to spend some serios time on the ground because I see nothing from the top.

Thanks

zstig

1. Not a Lexus. :v

ghaffar23

I have seen a set on eBay every now and again for a pretty reasonable price. Hope this helps!

mike430sport

You can get plugs for 100 bucks.
Place called BMA (888)2623911

mike430sport

My defrost and trunk switch went out. I found that the 40 amp fuse under the back seat was burnt out. I replaced it. It burnt out instantly. I just ordered new switches with the board, that go around the shifter. I hope this fixes it. I would like my defrost back.

007

for a 108 k 1997 e320car, i have had:

1.head gasket leak
2.water pump failed
3..burn out bulb on instrument panel and on window switch passenger side
4.intermittent bulb off and on at climate control area
5.rubbing noise when car first starts( happens when i am backing out of garage and turning the wheel, sound like rubbing grinding noise from axle i guess, then disappears)
6. high rev sound when car first starts upon ignition intermittently then also goes away
7. battery out
8. broken windshield due rocks chips on 605 monsta trucks
9. now down blower motor regulator

ruffrob

I'm sure this has been mentioned before,the infamous 'Lamp Defective' reading on the dashboard that no matter what is done ,it appears like the sun in the morning.....

carlsson9

MB_E430,

I'll try and search the parts number for you..I got them from my local parts dealer. Lenses are made from Hella...most dealers won't tell you that you can change the lenses coz they would obviously wanna sell the whole light assembly. Per side was about USD100, or less..not too sure..

$3000 ?! **** dude...labour over there must be killin...did my top overhaul for about $1250 here.. (converted from Malaysian Ringgit of course...)

MB_E430

Thanks for all the replies
Soon I will have my Benz flying again no wait I just got a ticket for that yesterday damn laser guns
Now I have a "Check Engine Electronics" error message I guess that could be hundreds of things. I bought an OBD II code reader but I am afraid to plug it in for fear of frying something in the car. Has anyone tried one of these after market code readers? It does not mention Mercedes on the list of supported vehicles but the plug looks like a match. This is the unit I bought:
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/pw/obdreader.htm
Got it at Walmart for a good price.

Helmut430

ok,,, you guys are freakin me out ,,,,, I havent had MOST of the problems y'all have had . But then, my 2001 E430 only has 24,000 miles as of yesterday. I did Starmark the car from new and have a little over 4 more years of warranty left. Should i be expecting these things you guys mentioned to start happening soon????

MB_E430

Well I certainly hope you never have any problems. I need a job like you have only 24,000 on an '81' how do you do it?!!! I drive 70 miles round trip for work and another 200 chasing girlfriends so average 550 per week +/-

carlsson9

Ok dude..i'm assuming your car is a LHD, hence you guys drive on the right side of the road soo..

LEFT, RIGHT SIDE TRAFFIC
A 210 820 03 66

RIGHT,RIGHT SIDE TRAFFIC
A 210 820 04 66

Hope that helps..

ccmbduong

My '96 E320 MB has 68K miles and the major problem was rusty spring perch. luckly that MB paid for the whole repair ($2250). After reading all of problems listed by others, I am afraid that my next car won't be MB. In the meantime, I will keep driving mine until I throw it away

fatchance

Here's my laundry list. Bear in mind, we have enjoyed the ownership and driving experience. I must say that the post-warranty period has been better than the in-warranty experience due to the many goofs the dealers inflicted on the car!

Car is a '98 E430 with about 70K miles.

In Warranty these things failed/replaced:

rear shock
lifters (all of them) due to a lumpy idle. You folks with lumpy idles might want to check this.
dash pad due to cracks
dead battery
faulty wiring (dealer inflicted) Did not secure harness for fuel pump. Car died on the road. Dealer said to keep driving even though the check engine light was on....grrr
Harmonic Balancer: Everyone knows about this.
seat heater on driver's side.
...probably some other less major stuff

Since out of warranty:
Air Mass Meter: Got codes P0170/P0173
Rear wheel bearing. 500 bucks!

Mods.
This is the fun stuff that definitely improved what was there all along. I spent far more on mods than the required maintenance since (knock on wood) the car has been pretty reliable.

Enjoy,

-travis

jimk100189

Let's see...
On my 98 E300TD
1) Window Regulatiors (discovered that a qtly shot into the window tracks with silicon spray helps keep this from happening)
2) Diesel fuel leaks (when the diesel fuel gets on your motor mounts - they're toast and have to be replaced - so fix the leak right away)
3) Glowplugs (plugs are cheap [relatively] - it's the $1000 to pull down the engine that gets pricey
4) Driver mirror problem (comes loose)
5) flakey electrical system (RH side lights keep burning out frequently)
6) leaky sunroof (anyone know how to replace the subroof rubber gasket?)
7) diesel - fuel lines are plastic not metal and develop pinholes at about 100k causing hard starts and stalling (about $1000 to replace)
8) control arm bushings - about 50k miles per set