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E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

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Old 12-31-2005, 12:40 PM   #1
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***List of Common W210 Problems***

I have been looking in other forums and they seem to have common shakes, rattles, and often replaced parts and thought, "Why shouldn't W210 owners have the same privilege?" So, without further adeiu, here I go...

Found in my car (2001 E430 4Matic):

-Rattle in the sunroof/moonroof panel (very common fix)
-Squeak/rubber-on-rubber sound from steering wheel at low speeds
-highly sensitive front end (more-than-often alignments)
-squeaks/clunks form front end (elaborate..can't get too into depth. Not on mine yet!)

-rusting door frames (there's an actual recall for this? Had mine done...)
-transmission not quite shifting smooth (flush is imminent)
-bad rear differential...'howling' sound at 15-20MPH (replaced under Starmark warranty..woohoo!)

-bad u-joints? mounts? can anyone elaborate on this?
-stuck rear sunshade (needs to be cleaned and re-greased)

That is all I can think of right now...I love these cars, but man, Mercedes needs to 'man up' and get some quality issues taken care of. Anyone else have further details, please post. Let us have a comprehensive list so that fellow W210 drivers/future buyers can have thorough reference. Thanks!
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Last edited by ghaffar23; 12-31-2005 at 12:42 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 12-31-2005, 02:23 PM   #2
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Here're problems that I found common among the W210 with M112/113 engine (V6/V8)

- Window regulator, of course
- Harmonic balancer
- Steering column cover getting loose
- Tricky alignment
- Soft brake pad, cause wheel to dirty quickly
- Dull headlight cover
- Fog lamp wire melt/burn.
- Brake light switch causes BAS/SRS/whatever warning go crazy
- Howling differential at some speed, found that nothing could be done to fix it, eventually, get used to it
- Radio volume sometime change too abruptely
- A/C take a while to cool the car in hot summer (the Japanese/American really know how to build A/C)
- Transmission sometime shift too rough when car first start, cold weather only.
- Window regulator
- Window regulator
- And of course, window regulator

Most of these problem (except the harmonic balancer) are minor & easy to resolved. The A/C and differential are flaw by design, I don't think we can do much to resolve it, not big deal anyway. The only potential catastrophic problem is the hamonic balaner, which is know covered by recall.

Car is ultra-reliable. Sound hard to belive, but for the 4 years and 100K mile that I put on it, it's more reliable than my previous Lexus GS.

The same can't be said about my W211, sadly. Have to vistit dealer very few months for recall issues.

Best of all, it still outhandle & out perform lot of new car that I've tested & driven, even my W211. The suspension and engine mod help with that, but also mean the body architecture held up well over time. Some have met me locally and tried out my W211 know what I mean.
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Last edited by zam2000; 12-31-2005 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 12-31-2005, 03:28 PM   #3
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Currently i'm having problems with the squeaky steering wheel and a slightly loose steering column. I'm wondering if I should ask and get a quote for a transmission fluid change. Sounds like this sealed transmission with no fluid change is BS. (What kind of ATF fluid do they use?)

Oh, and don't forget the...

- Catalytic converters
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Old 12-31-2005, 04:50 PM   #4
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the Diesels are flawed by constant fuel leaks, the O-rings have to be replaced every 10,000 miles... around 1,000 dollars each time. The diesels also have a weak Air intake system which causes the MAF to go bad every 20k miles. Other than these issues the car is rock solid
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Old 12-31-2005, 06:51 PM   #5
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Happy New Year to all my 210 bro's.
Here is a list of what I have replaced
1. Tranny 70k $5000
2. Motor mounts $200
3 ESP control $1500
4. HID bulbs $110 each
5. Front rotors 60k $500 for two.
6. Left side CATS 7/70 MB warranty or $4500
7. Right side CATS 7/70 MB warranty or $4500
8. Brake sensor $20
9. Window tint in front has been replaced 4 times do to scratching from the factory window seals (weird)

I guess that is it or all that I can think of right now. I will be replacing both front control arms and several bushing.
Overall it has been a good car except for the transmission part.
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Old 12-31-2005, 06:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E55Cent
Happy New Year to all my 210 bro's.
Here is a list of what I have replaced
1. Tranny 70k $5000
2. Motor mounts $200
3 ESP control $1500
4. HID bulbs $110 each
5. Front rotors 60k $500 for two.
6. Left side CATS 7/70 MB warranty or $4500
7. Right side CATS 7/70 MB warranty or $4500
8. Brake sensor $20
9. Window tint in front has been replaced 4 times do to scratching from the factory window seals (weird)

I guess that is it or all that I can think of right now. I will be replacing both front control arms and several bushing.
Overall it has been a good car except for the transmission part.
mario on the window tint, its a common thing with benz's....you have to replaced the inner portion with some felt strips......most tint shops don't know about this.....
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Old 12-31-2005, 07:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex@modbargains
mario on the window tint, its a common thing with benz's....you have to replaced the inner portion with some felt strips......most tint shops don't know about this.....
I have heard something about that but never really looked in to it. Have you done it? How is it done?
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Old 12-31-2005, 07:04 PM   #8
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Old 12-31-2005, 07:51 PM   #9
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Mario

I would have been able to help you with HID bulb (OEM Philips bulb, 45122 or 45126), new, at $40/each. Oh well

For the window tint, mine went out after 5 months. I have to roll windows up/down three times/day to get in and out of company (badge sliding). After few months, it's as dull as having sand paper going through it. I then have it re-tinted, took the rubber panel out, use the dremel tool to sand away the hard rubber part (when you see it get to that soft rubber layer, you know you're in good shape). It's been more than a year since the new tint is put in, and not a single scratch & car very quiet even at high speed. I've seen few put in felt ($$ and labor) or took out the panel completely (too much noise), but I just went with the low tech way.

Forgot the MAF, common problem on the M112/113 engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by E55Cent
4. HID bulbs $110 each

9. Window tint in front has been replaced 4 times do to scratching from the factory window seals (weird)
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Old 12-31-2005, 08:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E55Cent
I have heard something about that but never really looked in to it. Have you done it? How is it done?
i didn't do it the first time when i had the bluish tint on there and the tint would get messed up so easily.....when i got the dark tints in i made sure they did it and i have no problems. they take the door panels off and the portion where it touches your window they glue on a felt stripe thats soft so it won't sratch the window
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:13 AM   #11
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Iradic lumpy idle,Motor mounts on E55?

My 2000 E55 67,000 mi. has an iradic lumpy idle that you can feel inside the car. I thought that this was just the way the car could feel with a more agressive cam, but it is iradic. Could this be motor mounts, MAF sensor, Harmonic balancer? I have read all of these postings about what goes wrong with these cars and now I am super paranoid. Dealer in my area "checked car out" for me in May right after i bought the car. Car is in garage for winter so in no imminant danger!
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Old 01-02-2006, 07:46 PM   #12
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yeah mines at 89000 miles just busted the window regulator and idles a lil ruff and i definitely feel the funny rubbing noise at low speeds.
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Old 01-02-2006, 08:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zam2000
Mario

I would have been able to help you with HID bulb (OEM Philips bulb, 45122 or 45126), new, at $40/each. Oh well

For the window tint, mine went out after 5 months. I have to roll windows up/down three times/day to get in and out of company (badge sliding). After few months, it's as dull as having sand paper going through it. I then have it re-tinted, took the rubber panel out, use the dremel tool to sand away the hard rubber part (when you see it get to that soft rubber layer, you know you're in good shape). It's been more than a year since the new tint is put in, and not a single scratch & car very quiet even at high speed. I've seen few put in felt ($$ and labor) or took out the panel completely (too much noise), but I just went with the low tech way.

Forgot the MAF, common problem on the M112/113 engine.
Thanks ZAM, I haven't spoken to you in a while. How is the new and old E320's doing? I was thinking of you today, because one of my headlights was fogging up do to the rain. I was wondering if you could send me a pic of the selant you used on the headlights?
Thank you and I hope you are doing well in the O.C.
Mario
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Lorinser roof wing
Upgraded H.I.D. Crystal "face lift" head lamps
Brabus Shifter and flat hood emblem
Blacked out grill and all emblems
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Old 01-06-2006, 01:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E55Cent
I have heard something about that but never really looked in to it. Have you done it? How is it done?
You buy a roll of sticky-sided felt and place it between the window seal and the window. You stick it to the seal. I saw a thread earlier that had the place and model of the felt strips to buy. It's cheap like $6 a roll. I'll search for it. I'll find out and I'll post it.

I got my windows done at ProClass, by Salzer's and Autobody2000. They swore it wouldn't scratch but sure enough, it did. When I mention that it scratches, the window, they talked about cutting the window seal. I told them no way.

Then I had both rear regulators break. One in November and one just today, which messed up the tint, so I have to go back and get it done again.

E55Cent - I think I left a message on your car once. You were parked at the Barnes and Noble on Telephone. I lost your number. I like the HREs. What did you do with the Brabus-VI style wheels? Sell em?

Cody
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Old 01-06-2006, 01:53 AM   #15
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My problems have been:

1) MAF sensor broke right after I bought the car at 42k
2) Sunvisor sorta rattles
3) Left Regulator
4) Right Regulator
5) Rusted exhaust system
6) Leaking water pump
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Old 01-06-2006, 11:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cody
E55Cent - I think I left a message on your car once. You were parked at the Barnes and Noble on Telephone. I lost your number. I like the HREs. What did you do with the Brabus-VI style wheels? Sell em?

Cody
Hey Cody, I remember talking to you about the wheels. My buddy in Ventura bought them a couple months ago for his black E430. How's your car doing, do you have any pics? Than would be great if you can send me the link on the felt for the windows.
Mario
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CoolingMist chemical cooler 50/50 Meth/H2O
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Lorinser roof wing
Upgraded H.I.D. Crystal "face lift" head lamps
Brabus Shifter and flat hood emblem
Blacked out grill and all emblems
HRE 448R 19" staggered 245/275
2 12" Infinity Subs
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Old 01-06-2006, 11:42 AM   #17
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Drives: W210 E300DT Saloon
Problems with mine at 165k (E300 TD)

Rusty panels (some repaired, others need doing)
Belt tensioner (80 to fix + labour)
Glow Plugs (not really a DIY job, a bit risky)
Dodgy MAFS, but waiting to see what it does (only when cold really)
Wheel bearings going (only cheap to replace though)
Rusty coolant pipe, back of firewall (fixed by sleeving it)
Drop links on anti-roll bar (cheap)
Front ball joints

These are all problems that have been fixed, apart from the rust they're all just wear-and-tear really. Its still a very very quiet and smooth car to drive.
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Old 01-06-2006, 04:49 PM   #18
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Here's my newest quirk that is absolutely bugging the crap out of me right now. (because it's winter and I'm using the wash fluid a lot).

The wash fluid resevoir on my 97 E320 is what I would consider to be big compared to other cars I've owned. It's probably around 1.5 gallons, give or take... I love the fact that the resevoir has a sensor that tells me that the fluid is getting low. The problem is that when the sensor turns on alerting "washwater low", it's about 2/3 of a gallon to fill the tank to the top. Come on, can't the esteemed engineers in Germany make it so that when the sensor warning goes off, I can pour an entire gallon in and not be left standing there with the hood up holding the container 1/3 full? Now I have to either throw the rest of the fluid in the trash or put it in the trunk so it can rolla round and drive me nuts!! What, do they think we use liters or something.
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Old 01-06-2006, 08:05 PM   #19
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My qualms are...

i.) Belt and chain tensioner..replaced it four times after a top overhaul, and its never been the same again, always making a rattling noise in D and R. Has anyone had this prb, and managed to fix it?

ii.) Changed a MAF around 140K

iii.) Just changed my SECOND air con compressor yesterday! can't believe it went bust! First time was 6 years ago for USD1500 at dealers. This time, USD750 outside.

iv.) Indow regulators..all sides has been changed once excpet right side rear twice, and the driver side will probably go out soon.:P

v.) rear bulbs and foggies gurning out regularly (but seems ok now)

vi.) Front arms, camber castors, ball joints for the front. And its always running to the left over here..(something to do with conversion of LHD to RHD)

vii.) Brake Switches and sensors

Last year has been a killer for me in term of maintanence...lots of $$ spent..
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Old 01-06-2006, 11:38 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghaffar23
-Rattle in the sunroof/moonroof panel (very common fix)
-Squeak/rubber-on-rubber sound from steering wheel at low speeds
-highly sensitive front end (more-than-often alignments)
-bad rear differential...'howling' sound at 15-20MPH (replaced under Starmark warranty..woohoo!)

Hi Ghaffar23.

Can you please elaborate how the sunroof rattle was fixed? Mine rattles when its fully opened but it is ok when just the moonroof is open.

Also were your front end sensitivity issues making the ESP light go crazy?

I have the rear differential issue too, it just started a few months back, I am waiting for my next service to get it replaced under the Starmark warranty.

Thanks in advance,
Sheldon
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Old 01-07-2006, 12:10 AM   #21
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W210 Problems

When I worked at Mercedes...The W210s Needed
Mass air sensors
Crank Pullies
Fog Lite wire harness
Mono Belt Tensioner
Cat Converters
Lower control arms/ball joints
Trans....Leak turns into overhaul with Trans control unit
Rear diff leak @ rear cover..updated cover
A/C evap temp sensors
cracked dash pads
EIS wont release ignition lock
Shifter wont go into gear...Most from Coffee spilled
Front seat frames rock...updated frames
Flapping at windshield at 40 mph and higher..updated seals
tail light bulb holders melt
Window regulators
motor mounts
Stop light switch
Fuel level sending unit
Leaking Heater pipe in the washer tank...over fills the washer bottle and shows a low coolant level
The dreaded Rust...doors/trunk/fenders...
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Old 01-07-2006, 10:46 AM   #22
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Drives: Have 2009 E350W4. Had 2007 C280W4, 1998 E320S, 1990 300E, 1986 300E
Runs like a champ.

I've got a '98 E320S with 211k on it and thus far I've:

-both lower control arms and both ball joints
-idler pully
-harmonic balancer
-3 O2 sensors (one got ripped off from road debri after I had just replaced them
-tranny connector
-driveshaft cover
-catalytic convertor (thank God for 8 years or 80,000 miles warranty on Cats)
-passenger side foglight

Other than basic maintinence costs and a few minor scrapes I had to repair, this car has been fantastic. I now work for a Mercedes dealership and am thinking about really fixing up the wagon and getting it into some import shows.

Does anybody know of any performance options for the '98 model year.
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Old 01-07-2006, 08:28 PM   #23
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Fix - courtesy of benzworld.org

Quote:
Originally Posted by sbarsap
Hi Ghaffar23.

Can you please elaborate how the sunroof rattle was fixed? Mine rattles when its fully opened but it is ok when just the moonroof is open.

Also were your front end sensitivity issues making the ESP light go crazy?

I have the rear differential issue too, it just started a few months back, I am waiting for my next service to get it replaced under the Starmark warranty.

Thanks in advance,
Sheldon
I actually found a couple pictures where the velcro was applied to inhibit the rattling:

http://www.benzworld.org/gallery/sho...e=W210_E_Class
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Old 01-07-2006, 09:02 PM   #24
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I haven't seen any problems with mine that you listed with yours. The only problem i have is the Instrument cluster, lighting, where the Odometer and the clock, it get dim and sometimes gets bright, like a mind of their own.
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Old 01-08-2006, 12:48 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mb300eromeo
I've got a '98 E320S with 211k on it and thus far I've:

-both lower control arms and both ball joints

Does anybody know of any performance options for the '98 model year.
I was wondering how you determind the lower control arms and ball joints were bad? Also my car tends to sway a bit on the freeway (kind of like driving on a very windy day) I was thinking it has to be something with the suspesion. Every time I get new tires the problems goes away but soon returns.
thanks
Mario
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HPS Gen I supercharger tweeked
EvoSport lightened pullies
CoolingMist chemical cooler 50/50 Meth/H2O
H&R Sport Springs w/ #1 MB pads
Koni adjustables
Removed Res and Magnaflow muffler
Lorinser roof wing
Upgraded H.I.D. Crystal "face lift" head lamps
Brabus Shifter and flat hood emblem
Blacked out grill and all emblems
HRE 448R 19" staggered 245/275
2 12" Infinity Subs
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Old 01-08-2006, 12:48 AM
 
 
 
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