When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Are you sure that you haven't hit the "Rest" button on the controls when you were taking it apart? This would make it run on low when you shut off the ignition. It recycles heat at low, automatically when you shut off the ignition. Easy to do and half of MBZ owners aren't even aware that there is a button for that. Just a thought...
I have confirmed that it is not the "Rest" button. I must admit that when I first was removing the blower I was having difficulty disconnecting the harness at the box (other end of regulator harness) I attempted to cut right at the regulator to remove. I created a spark (battery still connected) which motivated me to reattempt the disconnect where I became successful. I further made the modifications (spliced and installed the Behr 140-821-84-51 regulator) subsequently read Climate Controller error codes B1234(Sunsensor) and B1459 (series interface connection to instrument cluster) and cleared them (codes are yet to reappear) I further reinstalled the Blower Motor and found it to have consistent fan running at low speed that continues while car is running and after the keys have been removed from the ignition. Earlier in this thread it indicates this to be a symptom of a bad regulator??? I am about to pull the trigger on another Behr regulator, any thoughts out there? THANKS!!!
UPDATE: I just received my second W140 Regulator (2nd was $75 from Autohaus, 1st $118 from German Auto Parts) plug and play and good to go. (obviously a defective 1st replacement)
For everyone that's finished this and had their blower on constantly.
check the wire colors compared to OP's pictures.
My unit had all it's wires rotated 180 degrees from OPs picture.
I pulled them and rotated them around (black <-> blue) (red <-> yellow)
and it works great.
I bought my unit from autohausAZ. before I'd determined the issue I asked them to send a new unit, as It's -21 here and I'd rather unplug it than do without. they refused. most of the plastic was brittle and broke. So it's now all held together with electric tape and heat shrink tubing. I really expected better quality. Next time I'd look elsewhere for the part.
I am not that mechanically inclined. Mechanic told me this was the correct fix. Otherwise I would have to replace 3 parts instead of one (new blower, mounting plate and new regulator). I bought the Behr part, which is only around 70$ now. Mechanic charged me 100$. Basically 200$ to fix my AC (needed freon added too). Saved me at least 500$.
I have a 1996 E320 that I just removed from the vehicle.. The regulator that the NAPA store sold me which is the part number doesn't look anything like the one on the assembly.. The new one is the large silver thing with the heatsinks on it.. The one on the assy is a small black plastic thing like the one on the S Class.. What I do notice is the brush end of the motor is covered with carbon, brush material and the motor when running has a repeating cricket like sound.. Sounds like the brushes are bad.. I need some advice cause the repair shop wants $880.00 to repair this and it is hot here!
I have a 1996 E320 that I just removed from the vehicle.. The regulator that the NAPA store sold me which is the part number doesn't look anything like the one on the assembly.. The new one is the large silver thing with the heatsinks on it.. The one on the assy is a small black plastic thing like the one on the S Class.. What I do notice is the brush end of the motor is covered with carbon, brush material and the motor when running has a repeating cricket like sound.. Sounds like the brushes are bad.. I need some advice cause the repair shop wants $880.00 to repair this and it is hot here!
Looks like you have the wrong part, in more ways than one. It appears to be the wrong part number, for starters... not sure why NAPA gave you that item. Read the rest of this forum thread for more information.
Also, the 'URO' brand is absolute pure garbage. Get your money back, fast. Many horror stories about URO are out there, click here for a sample.
NAPA is not the place to buy Mercedes parts, you are usually better off using a reputable MB vendor like AutohausAZ or BuyEuroParts.com.
The blower motor resister fix is fantastic and the instruction was spot-on. I can't thank you enough. My 1997 E420 was badly damaged on the front end after an argument with a concrete New Jersey barrier and I have put way more money into fixing it than I should have; call me sentimental! This fix helped keep a lid on some of the more routine maintenance. Way to go!!!
First, thanks to the OP and others who have provided this very useful information - this worked perfectly for me and was an easy fix.
FYI - I have a 1997 E320 that has the "early" style assembly, and there are plenty of available options that are direct plug in replacements that do not require any splicing of wires. I found the part on Amazon for $37, and it included the thermal paste. Shipped directly from China and took about 5 days even though shipping estimate was over a month.
FYI - I have a 1997 E320 that has the "early" style assembly, and there are plenty of available options that are direct plug in replacements that do not require any splicing of wires. I found the part on Amazon for $37, and it included the thermal paste. Shipped directly from China and took about 5 days even though shipping estimate was over a month.
Let us know how long it works... don't be surprised if it fails within a year...
So I bought an '01 e320 about a month ago and sure enough the climate Control started acting up immediately after the car became mine. The blower basically turns off and on intermittently. Usually it doesn't start working until the car has been running for about 5 minutes then it will turn off and on. I pulled out the blower motor and hardhard wired it to a 12V source and it works with no issues. Does this sound like a definitive issue with the regulator?
I have a 1996 e320. Will this work for it? Also I can get the part from junkyard. There are a lot of S class there. What years of a class will work. Thank you very much for reply. I need to know before I do it. Thanks a lot!
Sergio
I bought a fan with regulator for $119 off the internet and big surprise... it doesn't work. Has anyone had any luck with this part? It does not have the same build quality but seems to fit and be correct part - just wished it had worked. Previous to installation I had no fan and still have no fan. I read about the reg. replacement and maybe that is a better bet.
Having the same problem.... Did you ever figure out what was wrong with yours?
Originally Posted by mashcigar
I was experiencing the exact same problems, ordered the regulator from Autohaus last week and installed per these instructions on Thursday. Everything worked great for 2 days, and now today, I am back to NO blower. Anyone have any ideas??? I am wondering if my blower motor is bad, i.e. overheats maybe, and frys the regulator? I have run all of the AC diagnostics and no problems or error codes. Any thoughts?
... Please reply if you could and let me know if you figured out your problem... I'm having same problems... Thanks
I have an extraordinary issue with my air blower. While driving my car when I press accelerator pedal no air is coming out (blower is stopping). Is that the same problem you are talking about here?
I have an extraordinary issue with my air blower. While driving my car when I press accelerator pedal no air is coming out (blower is stopping). Is that the same problem you are talking about here?
I just completed my fix today, and had my hat blown off. Can't thank Tony enough. My only addition to this forum would be that I was able to buy the w140 blower regulator for 79.65, including shipping and insurance. Chinese knockoff. On EBAY at http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29392-...m=110377359122
It appears the life of the knockoff was 6 years. My wagon now has 267k miles and will not die. I commute 100 miles a day. Only question is whether to use another w140 part or switch to oem?
So this fix worked for me. I can confirm that the Torx screws are T-20. The part needed can be found for around $30 now if you look around enough. I got mine off of ebay for that amount, got it in the mail and did the replacement yesterday to great success. The thing that I wonder now, is there another blower fan for the 96 W210? There are AC vents on the center console and inside of it as well, but they still don't blow any harder now that the regulator has been fixed. And with hicks97's problem, it could also be the regulator as I have read elsewhere that the voltages can vary on a broken regulator depending on which component in the regulator is malfunctioning. I'd say find a junk yard and try to get another climate control unit and test that out as well though.
Thanks for this thread, it saved me a ton of money over what repair shops wanted.
On my 1999 E320 I found one missing step in these otherwise excellent DIY instructions. The cover under the instrument panel has a lip on the left side which tucks behind the heater vent on the side of the transmission hump. So the first step should be to remove that vent. There's a plastic screw at the top back* (left) of the vent that you turn 1/4 turn counter clockwise to release the vent, then pull the back (left) end to the right (out) and it just comes out. This makes removing the cover easier and replacing it a LOT easier. The vent goes in as it came out, just put the tabs at the front (right) into the opening, push it into place, and turn the screw 1/4 turn clockwise.
* When I say back I mean back of the car, when I say (left) I mean left of the vent.
I, too, bought a direct replacement regulator off eBay rather than perform surgery on the wiring harness. I know it's a gamble but it got the blower working fast and cheap - and if it fails again I will reconsider my options.
Last edited by Needleroozer; 06-13-2016 at 12:07 PM.
My 1999 E320 AC was blowing intermittently on high and as soon as I changed it to a lower setting it would stop blowing altogether. Now when I get into the car it does not blow at all and I am hearing a little chirping sound. The air is cold coming out of the vents what little there is. Any ideas if its the regulator?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
01-12-2014, 04:27 PM
The blower motor resister fix is fantastic and the instruction was spot-on. I can't thank you enough. My 1997 E420 was badly damaged on the front end after an argument with a concrete New Jersey barrier and I have put way more money into fixing it than I should have; call me sentimental! This fix helped keep a lid on some of the more routine maintenance. Way to go!!!
