Help. My car doesnt move after mounting aftermarket wheels.
#1
Help. My car doesnt move after mounting aftermarket wheels.
I mounted 19" wheels onto my car:
Fronts:
19 X 8.5" - 35 mm offset
235/35/19 tires
Rears:
19 x 9.5" - 35 mm offset
265/30/19 tires
My car DOESNT MOVE!
I took off each wheel one at a time, and with one aftermarket wheel on, I can move but I do hear a scraping every 2-3 feet or so.
I believe this has something to do with lug bolts that came with the aftermarket wheels.
I tried both the original lug bolts and aftermarket lug bolts but I seem to have the same problem.
Am I getting something wrong here?
Fronts:
19 X 8.5" - 35 mm offset
235/35/19 tires
Rears:
19 x 9.5" - 35 mm offset
265/30/19 tires
My car DOESNT MOVE!
I took off each wheel one at a time, and with one aftermarket wheel on, I can move but I do hear a scraping every 2-3 feet or so.
I believe this has something to do with lug bolts that came with the aftermarket wheels.
I tried both the original lug bolts and aftermarket lug bolts but I seem to have the same problem.
Am I getting something wrong here?
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
sounds like the lug is thinner (closer to the hub) than stock, ergo, both your
stock, as well as aftermarket lug bolts are too long, thus contacting the brake
caliper or something.
pull the aftermarket rim and drop bolt through the lug hole. measure exposed
threading out the back, measuring from the face of the hub.
now get the stock rim and drop bolt through the lug hole...ditto. my guess is
that the exposed thread length of the aftermarket are quite a bit longer, yes?
good lord, do not drive the thing until you get this resolved or you'll damage
your caliper.
stock, as well as aftermarket lug bolts are too long, thus contacting the brake
caliper or something.
pull the aftermarket rim and drop bolt through the lug hole. measure exposed
threading out the back, measuring from the face of the hub.
now get the stock rim and drop bolt through the lug hole...ditto. my guess is
that the exposed thread length of the aftermarket are quite a bit longer, yes?
good lord, do not drive the thing until you get this resolved or you'll damage
your caliper.
#5
Thanks for the suggestions.
I did check the length of the lug bolt compared to stock lug on the stock wheel. There is about a 1.5 cm difference in length. I will just saw these lug bolts shorter to make this fit. BTW, does anyone know the spec for the length of the bolt to extend past the back side of the wheel? (this will save me the trouble of having to jack up my car and do this check manually which means a lot of dirty work since my stock wheels have about 5 years and dirt and grime on them)
The front wheels did spin freely when they are off the ground. The rear wheels do not, since I only was using the stock jack and the other rear wheel was still on the ground. However, I was still getting some noise from the one of the lug bolts hitting the suspension arms(?) every few feet. There may be different suspensions geometries when the full weight of car is on the wheels which caused the rubbing when the full weight of the car is on the suspension.
My car is not 4matic, so the staggered does work for my car. I would have preferred non staggered since it is better for tire rotation, but the package only came in staggered.
I did check the length of the lug bolt compared to stock lug on the stock wheel. There is about a 1.5 cm difference in length. I will just saw these lug bolts shorter to make this fit. BTW, does anyone know the spec for the length of the bolt to extend past the back side of the wheel? (this will save me the trouble of having to jack up my car and do this check manually which means a lot of dirty work since my stock wheels have about 5 years and dirt and grime on them)
The front wheels did spin freely when they are off the ground. The rear wheels do not, since I only was using the stock jack and the other rear wheel was still on the ground. However, I was still getting some noise from the one of the lug bolts hitting the suspension arms(?) every few feet. There may be different suspensions geometries when the full weight of car is on the wheels which caused the rubbing when the full weight of the car is on the suspension.
My car is not 4matic, so the staggered does work for my car. I would have preferred non staggered since it is better for tire rotation, but the package only came in staggered.
#7
Nimski62, it is very dangerous to drive on a staggered setup on a 4wd or Awd.
The main reason is that with a 4wd or Awd cars (I am assuming is one of those two above), since all 4 wheels are being driven at the same time they want to be the same overall diameter/weight.
The consequences of using a staggered setup is that you will be wearing out your center differential (and it may lock up!).
The main reason is that with a 4wd or Awd cars (I am assuming is one of those two above), since all 4 wheels are being driven at the same time they want to be the same overall diameter/weight.
The consequences of using a staggered setup is that you will be wearing out your center differential (and it may lock up!).
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Nimski62, it is very dangerous to drive on a staggered setup on a 4wd or Awd.
The main reason is that with a 4wd or Awd cars (I am assuming is one of those two above), since all 4 wheels are being driven at the same time they want to be the same overall diameter/weight.
The consequences of using a staggered setup is that you will be wearing out your center differential (and it may lock up!).
The main reason is that with a 4wd or Awd cars (I am assuming is one of those two above), since all 4 wheels are being driven at the same time they want to be the same overall diameter/weight.
The consequences of using a staggered setup is that you will be wearing out your center differential (and it may lock up!).
in staggered configuration. so obviously it's not dangerous. more likely that
the overall diameter and circumference must remain same, front/rear. with
staggered config, they wouldn't be the same weight.
so it's a bit unfair to yell fire, w/o more insight into the specifications of the
staggered package.
#10
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2014 ML350 4Matic
rolypoly - The lug bolts cannot hit the suspension. It sounds like the bolts are hitting the internals of the parking brake, which is inside the little brake drum at the center of the rear brake rotors. You should be able to turn the wheel opposite the one on the ground. I do it all the time when I want to wash the inside of my wheels (I jack each corner of the car one at a time with a floor jack). You can't turn the wheel because something is hitting.
The bolts do not need to project beyond the thickness of the mounting flange, so cut them off just enough to get a full thread engagement with the mounting flange. I am suspect of anyone who would sell you the wheels with the wrong bolts. Sounds like a clueless seller to me.
The bolts do not need to project beyond the thickness of the mounting flange, so cut them off just enough to get a full thread engagement with the mounting flange. I am suspect of anyone who would sell you the wheels with the wrong bolts. Sounds like a clueless seller to me.
#12
Senior Member
The rear wheel bolt length is finicky on the W210. Not just because of the brand of wheel. Others have found that the same thing can happen when mounting AMG wheels from a different car. Just make sure that you have 6 full turns of threads before the lug bolt bottoms out. This is common, look on the tire/wheel forum, this happened to me with wheels from the Tirerack.com.
#13
notwithstanding your caution, note that MB does offer models with 4matic and
in staggered configuration. so obviously it's not dangerous. more likely that
the overall diameter and circumference must remain same, front/rear. with
staggered config, they wouldn't be the same weight.
so it's a bit unfair to yell fire, w/o more insight into the specifications of the
staggered package.
in staggered configuration. so obviously it's not dangerous. more likely that
the overall diameter and circumference must remain same, front/rear. with
staggered config, they wouldn't be the same weight.
so it's a bit unfair to yell fire, w/o more insight into the specifications of the
staggered package.
#15
As an update to this, I did call the wheel manufacturer and all they specified for me is that I need a 14mm tapered lug bolt. They had no idea about the lug bolt length requirements.
Questions for the lug bolts:
1) Should I be concerned about the 14mm tapered lug bolt on the W210? I thought the stocks were 12mm ball lug bolts.
2) Is it safe to cut lug bolts shorter to fit, since the ones I received are definitely too long.
3) This is definitely a newbie question, since it doesnt sound right to me:
In terms of defining 6 full turns of threads, is this 9mm (6 turns X 1.5mm (pitch))?
Questions for the lug bolts:
1) Should I be concerned about the 14mm tapered lug bolt on the W210? I thought the stocks were 12mm ball lug bolts.
2) Is it safe to cut lug bolts shorter to fit, since the ones I received are definitely too long.
3) This is definitely a newbie question, since it doesnt sound right to me:
In terms of defining 6 full turns of threads, is this 9mm (6 turns X 1.5mm (pitch))?
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
i can only assume that the wheel manuf is saying that the lug bolt seat is cone
seat shaped (as you say, tapered). many are cone, but MB W210 (just about
*all* MB are ball seat shaped. do not use cone seat lug bolt (even if they are
12mm dia bolt used by W210). you'll compromise bolt-to-wheel fit.
throught all this, you've not identified the wheel manuf and model. having that
info might have helped
seat shaped (as you say, tapered). many are cone, but MB W210 (just about
*all* MB are ball seat shaped. do not use cone seat lug bolt (even if they are
12mm dia bolt used by W210). you'll compromise bolt-to-wheel fit.
throught all this, you've not identified the wheel manuf and model. having that
info might have helped
#17
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2014 ML350 4Matic
The seat on the bolt should match the seat on the wheel. If the seat is a cone, then the cone bolts. M-B uses a spherical seat on their bolts and wheels. The W210 has 12mm bolts. A 14mm bolt will not screw into the flange.
#18
Thanks for everyone's help on this. This has been very informative for me, and helped clarify questions that I had from searching old posts in this forum.
I am going to reedit my first post (if possible) to include the wheel information since this is a good reference to future users trying this exact wheel:
Stern ST-1 Face III Beast - Gloss Black Wheels
http://www.1010tires.com/wheel.asp?w...2D+Gloss+Black
So I should be using a 12mm cone bolt on to fit on these wheels. That is the size of bolts that I have since these bolts do fit in the flange of my car.
I was originally confused by Whitey's post in this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...light=lug+size
I am borrowing the picture from Whitey's post to attach here for convenience.
In a few hours, I will be swinging by the wheel shop to get these mounted onto my car but I have the right knowledge now to ask the right questions. I'll be posting pics when I finally can get these mounted onto my car.
I am going to reedit my first post (if possible) to include the wheel information since this is a good reference to future users trying this exact wheel:
Stern ST-1 Face III Beast - Gloss Black Wheels
http://www.1010tires.com/wheel.asp?w...2D+Gloss+Black
So I should be using a 12mm cone bolt on to fit on these wheels. That is the size of bolts that I have since these bolts do fit in the flange of my car.
I was originally confused by Whitey's post in this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...light=lug+size
I am borrowing the picture from Whitey's post to attach here for convenience.
In a few hours, I will be swinging by the wheel shop to get these mounted onto my car but I have the right knowledge now to ask the right questions. I'll be posting pics when I finally can get these mounted onto my car.
#19
As an update here, it will take me longer to get my lug bolts cut down and filed versus ordering new bolts.
So the shop is ordering lug bolts similar to these:
http://www.prestigewheel.com/cgi-bin...&key=20-4095-C
Cant wait to get these back onto the car and finally rollling this time.
So the shop is ordering lug bolts similar to these:
http://www.prestigewheel.com/cgi-bin...&key=20-4095-C
Cant wait to get these back onto the car and finally rollling this time.
#21
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2001 E320
I mounted 19" wheels onto my car:
Fronts:
19 X 8.5" - 35 mm offset
235/35/19 tires
Rears:
19 x 9.5" - 35 mm offset
265/30/19 tires
My car DOESNT MOVE!
I took off each wheel one at a time, and with one aftermarket wheel on, I can move but I do hear a scraping every 2-3 feet or so.
I believe this has something to do with lug bolts that came with the aftermarket wheels.
I tried both the original lug bolts and aftermarket lug bolts but I seem to have the same problem.
Am I getting something wrong here?
Fronts:
19 X 8.5" - 35 mm offset
235/35/19 tires
Rears:
19 x 9.5" - 35 mm offset
265/30/19 tires
My car DOESNT MOVE!
I took off each wheel one at a time, and with one aftermarket wheel on, I can move but I do hear a scraping every 2-3 feet or so.
I believe this has something to do with lug bolts that came with the aftermarket wheels.
I tried both the original lug bolts and aftermarket lug bolts but I seem to have the same problem.
Am I getting something wrong here?
www.OtisIncLA.com
sales@OtisIncLA.com
#22
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98 W210 Advantgarde
I was originally confused by Whitey's post in this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...light=lug+size
I am borrowing the picture from Whitey's post to attach here for convenience.
12mm vs 14mm ball seats: the 14mm ball is flatter hence the curvature of 12mm bolts will not sit snug against a wheel made for 14mm bolts, compromising "bite" of the bolts on the wheel (although the wheels will bolt on and appear to be fine). This is why people using W211 or wheels from other models using 14mm bolts should get custom bolts that have ball seats replicating those of the 14mm bolts but have a 12mm thread.
If your wheels are made with cone seats then you will need bolts with a cone seat...obviously, one with ball seat will still bolt on the wheel but will be unsafe, and vice versa.
I assume you are talking about the "clicking" sound when your car is in motion. That is clearly the bolts being too long for the wheels and catching on the E-brake (not the calipers as someone had mentioned). This is usually caused by the center of the new wheel being thinner and/or the holes being deeper than the OEM wheels hence the bolts are sticking out too much through the back and catching on the E-brake - this will cause damage to the E-brake.
Hope this clarifies any confusion.
Good luck on your fix
Last edited by Whitey; 11-02-2006 at 02:20 PM.
#23
if you look at the inside of your wheel, you might see scrape marks from where it rubbed the caliper...
this just happened to me, the spacers i have are are wide enough and i tightened the wheel, but it was tightened against the caliper so it wouldn't move, i.e. the wheels were the wrong offset and too close to the caliper.
probably not what's wrong in your case, but just thought i would share...!
let's see what the end result is...
this just happened to me, the spacers i have are are wide enough and i tightened the wheel, but it was tightened against the caliper so it wouldn't move, i.e. the wheels were the wrong offset and too close to the caliper.
probably not what's wrong in your case, but just thought i would share...!
let's see what the end result is...
Last edited by ZedStyle; 11-04-2006 at 03:40 AM.
#24
So what's the confusion about?
12mm vs 14mm ball seats: the 14mm ball is flatter hence the curvature of 12mm bolts will not sit snug against a wheel made for 14mm bolts, compromising "bite" of the bolts on the wheel (although the wheels will bolt on and appear to be fine). This is why people using W211 or wheels from other models using 14mm bolts should get custom bolts that have ball seats replicating those of the 14mm bolts but have a 12mm thread.
If your wheels are made with cone seats then you will need bolts with a cone seat...obviously, one with ball seat will still bolt on the wheel but will be unsafe, and vice versa.
I assume you are talking about the "clicking" sound when your car is in motion. That is clearly the bolts being too long for the wheels and catching on the E-brake (not the calipers as someone had mentioned). This is usually caused by the center of the new wheel being thinner and/or the holes being deeper than the OEM wheels hence the bolts are sticking out too much through the back and catching on the E-brake - this will cause damage to the E-brake.
Hope this clarifies any confusion.
Good luck on your fix
12mm vs 14mm ball seats: the 14mm ball is flatter hence the curvature of 12mm bolts will not sit snug against a wheel made for 14mm bolts, compromising "bite" of the bolts on the wheel (although the wheels will bolt on and appear to be fine). This is why people using W211 or wheels from other models using 14mm bolts should get custom bolts that have ball seats replicating those of the 14mm bolts but have a 12mm thread.
If your wheels are made with cone seats then you will need bolts with a cone seat...obviously, one with ball seat will still bolt on the wheel but will be unsafe, and vice versa.
I assume you are talking about the "clicking" sound when your car is in motion. That is clearly the bolts being too long for the wheels and catching on the E-brake (not the calipers as someone had mentioned). This is usually caused by the center of the new wheel being thinner and/or the holes being deeper than the OEM wheels hence the bolts are sticking out too much through the back and catching on the E-brake - this will cause damage to the E-brake.
Hope this clarifies any confusion.
Good luck on your fix
#25
if you look at the inside of your wheel, you might see scrape marks from where it rubbed the caliper...
this just happened to me, the spacers i have are are wide enough and i tightened the wheel, but it was tightened against the caliper so it wouldn't move, i.e. the wheels were the wrong offset and too close to the caliper.
probably not what's wrong in your case, but just thought i would share...!
let's see what the end result is...
this just happened to me, the spacers i have are are wide enough and i tightened the wheel, but it was tightened against the caliper so it wouldn't move, i.e. the wheels were the wrong offset and too close to the caliper.
probably not what's wrong in your case, but just thought i would share...!
let's see what the end result is...
I couldnt find anywhere that the wheel is hitting itself; so that doesnt seem to be the problem. I am not using spacers on these wheels.
I am returning the 30mm shank bolts for 26mm shank bolts.