mrmuzic

I was getting a PO410 code popping up and sometime even getting the 17? and another 17? code to. The 17? codes wound up being hoses that were popping off that were associated with the charcoal canister (gas return system) so that vapors don't vent to the atmosphere.

The P0410 error code was more involved. I would reset the code and monitor when the code would re-appear. It was at intervals of 200 miles. I went on the MB forums and read as much as I could about this code and things that other people had tried. The cheapest thing was adding a Lucas additive that's available at WalMart for about $10. You get about 4-5 treatments with the container. The first treatment that I did which is nothing more than adding 3oz to a full tank brought the intervals up to 260 miles. I thendid another treatment and it brought it up to 330 miles. Well I am now on my 4 treatment and well over 400 miles and NO P0410 error code.

This is a VERY complex error code which can get VERYexpensive to repair if you bring it to MB. All I know is that my gas mileage has gotten better and the intervals have lessened considerably. Hopefully after 1 more bottle of Lucas I wont be getting any error codes despite the mileage !

Kevin

socalsounds

Other than I think you're possibly correcting the symptom rather than the sickness, I would also be wary about running that much Lucas through your engine (and eventually vapor to your cats)- the E manual specifically states NOT to use any fuel additives beyond typical pump additives due to sensitive cats- anyway, good luck!

gatonls

I just had the same code pop up on me this am............at 200 miles?? what is the problem???

I will check to see if the pump is working tomorrow am...........then check the fuse..........and hose's...........anything else???

HELP!!!!!!

ohlord

the code clearing had not thing to do with what you put in the fuel.The sec air pump comes on at start up to inject added oxygen into the exhaust so that the cats fire up in under 2 minutes.The P0410 will return. At least until you fix the secondary air issue. Lucas will not do it. P0410 also has no affect on mpg.The air pump comes on for a few minutes when the engine is cold(you can hear it pumping along when the engine is at high idle on cold start and then it goes off.
The obd2 system checks it periodically for proper function.
Check vac lines to it.Disconnect the feed lines to the exhaust and spray with crc cleaner, check the check valve. It is not a circuit malfunction or anything that a fuel additive will repair.
In colder months the check valve will fill with moisture,The weather has warmed up and the code is gone,it will return when the weather gets cold.Cheap part,replace it before it damages the air pump,which ain't so cheap.

gatonls

Thanks for the info Ohlord...............I will check the lines and check valve, also spray cleaner as you sugested.

How do you know if the check valve is bad?........other then looking at it? would it be a wise choice to just replace?? 12 yr old car??

ron m.

This code has been an issue for me for about a year. The first time, I noticed that the vacuum lines to the check valves were damaged and replaced them. However, the code never went away. I suspect that because the check valves never actuated, exhaust debris built up on the channels and plugged them.

This morning, I removed the check valves and checked them for functionality (they both open at about 11 in.Hg). With the valves off the car, I ran the engine and noticed that the driver side reeds were flapping, indicating that they were open. The ones on the passenger side remained static, which meant they were blocked.

I tried to remove the valve housing stem and attempt to pry the blockage loose, but after removing the torx bolt, the stem would still not budge (it looks to be integrated to the manifold). I tried to force high-pressure air through the check valve (open, of course) but the channel appears completely sealed.

The error did clear itself when I was running without the check valves on, but I think the only real way for me to resolve this is to somehow clean the passenger side channel. Also used solvent cleaner but without an opening, it didn't really help.

Benz5656

I have had the problem for quite sometime. Where are these feed lines located, so that I can check them?

AMGSC

I got this error code for the first time a few days ago. I replaced the air pump and drove it for 350 miles before it came back again.

I will call my shop and ask him if he cleaned the check valve or inspected the vacuum lines, solenoid or even the fuse.

ckolstad

Does anyone have a picture of the lines, check valves, etc. so that I can check mine? I just had the same issue pop up on my 1999 E430. Probably time to clean everything out. Of course, I just got the DMV renewal and need a smog check....;-)

Thanks,
Chris

Nkosiman

My 2000 ML320 was plagued by this code, and thus a "Check Engine" light for over a year. The fix unfortunately came from the Service Center at my local Benz dealer.

Below is the description of all the things the dealer fixed on my vehicle to clear this code. I'm not very Automobile technical so I would never have tried any of this work myself. Perhaps some of you are.

Service Description:

"Performed Short-test, found codes P0410 and P0442. Checked Actual Values of Secondary Air Injection. Found that intermittently Secondary Air Values went out of spec. Inspected secondary air lines found check valve intermittently sticking. Replaced check valve. Checked actual values of evaporative system and found pressure would not hold. Connected smoke-machine to evaporative system to check for leaks. Found rubber connecting hose at rear of tank cracked. Repaired cracked line. Erased codes. Performed extended test drives, and all is functioning normally."

My "Check Engine" light was coming on at about 110 miles of driving before this work. It has not returned since.

I hope this helps.

kyleveran

i just got 3 codes on my C32 AMG please help P0410 P0300 P0306...-__-"

Chiro

Had a check engine lightcome on and code read P0410 . Last night I had the engine cover off while checking my tranny fluid. I threw the engine cover back on quickly with one hand.
After reading the code I popped the hood only to see that I had knocked off a vaccum line in my hast..nice easy fix

c32used

I just got this code this morning and I just took car out of storage yesterday and drove like 75-80 miles since and no codes. I still have to change SC pulley bearing but I know that has nothing to do with it. Temperature today when engine code came on was around 45-50 and engine ran smooth and I let car warm up for like 2 minutes before driving it. When I got to Amoco to refuel engine light was on. Once home I scanned it and p0410 was fault I erased code and ran scan again engine light was there. I turned car off and back on and code cleared and engine light gone. I'm gonna be monitoring it but anyone has pics or a YouTube video link that shows the secondary air pump and hoses and valves associated?

FlatlineEF9

They might be able to help you in the C32 forum. They also would be better able to help you about 5 years ago when this thread was active.

twbuckin

Code P0410 came on. 1998 E320 Sedan. The shop told me ""Performed electrical function test, found that the left and right heads have plugged passage ways. Heads need to be pulled and drilled back open."

$3000-$3500!!!
help. Does this sound right??

comnaver

This is a potential solution to your plugged passageway.

This passageway off of the heads was too small, by design. The V12 engines have even smaller exhaust sampling passageways necessitating head removal. For the 3.2L only as this is all I have experience with, this solution opened the passageway and enabled the engine to pass smog. Remember this will be after clearing codes with your Craftsman OBDII and then performing the coast down, cold start up, hard acceleration and steady state driving hurdles, not in that order.

1. Take the two Philips head screws off and carefully pry first the left vacuum actuator and follow these instructions. Leave hoses attached as they may be brittle and forcing them off adds to the repair.

2. Start engine and listen and smell for exhaust gases at idle. If you smell and or hear nothing, rev the engine no more than 500 additional RPM. If exhaust note is still not heard or smelled then this passageway is blocked. If you smell and or hear exhaust, stop engine, reinstall vacuum actuator and reed valve assembly and move to right bank. Repeat.

3. If blocked, then purchase can of BG Throttle Body and Intake Cleaner. Bring engine to temperature with all smog controls and air pump hoses attached. Then shut off and remove two Philips head screws and carefully pry vacuum actuator off of pedestal. Pedestals CANNOT be removed.

3A. Spray, carefully and with protective wear as this cleaner is incredibly strong and strips paint readily, into passageway until liquid is seen at top of passageway. There is no need to pressurize or add a longer tip. This takes multiple applications and patience.

4. After refilling the passageway several times, take an air compressor with rubber tip and apply 20-40 PSI to passageway. If you get a small pop, then this is the carbon / varnish softening to the point where a small hole has now been established.

5. If you do not get a soft pop, then continue with step 3A until you soften the blockage enough that the air pressure creates that hole.

You will get confirmation that you've reestablished exhaust sampling when you start the engine and hear and or smell exhaust at idle.

Be patient and understand that this will happen again on that and or both banks of cylinders. This is an age, use and quality of both oil and gasoline dependent problem.

2003 E320 wagon 240k miles

Gregdali

i get P0410 code after every 100 miles,i changed secondary air pump and check valve but still shows up,does anybody know the problem.thanks

comnaver

Gregdali - Your air pump and or check valve are likely NOT the issue. If you read the 20 SEP '15 post regarding exhaust sampling passageways, then you can deduce whether or not the P0410 is tied to blockages in one or both cylinder heads.

If the above listed problem is NOT the issue, and upon removing both vacuum actuators exhaust gas can be both heard and smelled, then you will have to move to your EGR valve.

EGR valve - W112 motors have a hose which can get brittle, but it's inexpensive and a bit of a challenge to replace even when elevating the car; That and or the internals of the EGR valve are gummed up due to normal use.

If you're NOT a mechanic, then I would leave these items to a competent Mercedes mech.

Happy Holidays!

'04 E320 wagon 80k

Gregdali

Can you add please some pictures how to find those vacuum actuators,i'm not mechanic but i can do this by myself,to do this at dealer cost more than car's price.thank you

comnaver

yellow arrows

comnaver

Please be careful if you're going to attempt to follow my instructions Gregdali. You would be injecting a flammable liquid directly into the combustion chamber so imagine the damage you would be doing if DO NOT understand the process.


After performing the hear-smell test, if either cylinder shows a blockage then proceed at your own risk.

Gregdali

On the picture yellow arrow shows on check valves,which I changed them,brand new,and I didn't see anything carbonized inside,I will check again,and also egr valve.thank you so much

comnaver

call me 805-276-1174

Salim Love

chris limina

My fix for this code was the check valves. I thought it was the pump but replacing that did nothing. I hose clamped all the vacuum lines and taped everything. That did nothing after a reset. The only thing left was the check valves. I got some check valve replacements on ebay. The check valves are actually two pieces that come off with two Phillips screws. After getting them, I found that the ones that I had were actually snapped off inside the engine block near the bottom. This was preventing a good air seal in the vacuum lines and causing the check engine light to come on. I guess some mechanic that owned the car before me snapped them off thinking they were supposed to be just like that. I added some rubber grommets to seal up that leak and cleaned the carbonation out of the inside of the check valves with break system cleaner. Just fixed it today and no light yet. We will see if it comes back now. If it doesn't work i can just get some easy out and pull the cylinders that were snapped off out of the engine block and fully replace the bottom of the check vales without the rubber grommet fix.

Maybe this will help someone.