wnobles111

My 2002 E320 started opening all of the windows and sunroof shortly after being parked. I have replaced the battery (old one was 9 years old, the original!) I thought it might be the fob, and replaced the batteries in it also. Since it acts like the fob automatic open feature, I removed the batteries in case that was the problem. The windows and sunroof still open on their own. This happens after I park the car. It does not seem to matter whether the car is locked or not. If I lock the car, it unlocks and the windows and sunroof open. Yesterday while driving the car, the trunk popped open and I had to jump out at a red-light and close it. In order to protect the car, I'm disconnecting the battery at night and having to resync everything in the morning. Any ideas?

wnobles111

I just went back outside after posting the above, and all windows were down, sunroof open and trunk open. Also, the dome lights are on. I can't take this car anywhere and park it for fear of it being wide open when I return.

Yuille36

You need to take it to the dealer, as this car is possessed...LOL

cbpeck

That's almost unbelievable. I agree, dealership on this one.

waybomb

Subscribed. Can't wait to hear what this was all about.

I've had my trunk open seemingly all by itself a couple of times at home, but I figure I somehow actuated the fob. So now I take the keys out of my pocket when I get home, and have not had the trunk open since.

saintz

The window open/close feature of the key fob is IR, not RF. So if the key is in your house in your pocket, that's not the cause.

Trunk open is RF, though, so that could activate from in your house.

Red66GT

Call a priest?

So, does this happen in the same location or near the same location (like at or near your home)? Or does it not matter where you are with the car? Reason I ask is maybe someone in your neighborhood has a remote to something that is on the same frequency? I had a ceiling fan that would turn on in my house everytime my neighbor opened his garage door. Took me months to figure out. Just a thought.

MG

Wow. I agree you need a priest and a certified MB tech.

Who did you hit and kill?

raymond g-

gather up all your keys first. you want to eliminate the possibility that
someone in your family is video-ing all this to put on youtube.

the convenience opening/closing is something that can be activated by
Smartkey but it is via infrared. as such, the range is limited and less
prone to 'punking'. so i'm inclined to think that the source will be
a control module of some sort. (mindless guessing)

wnobles111

Well, I took it for a long drive this afternoon thinking the new battery needed a charge, these E320's are apparently unhappy with voltage changes (according to other posts). It's been parked for about four hours now, and the windows and sunroof are still closed :-) however... when I looked at it about ten minutes ago, the four-way flashers were on! They stayed on for about five minutes then went off. I'm beginning to think it really is possessed!

dsmith

It's not just battery voltage that's the issue. All of the modules work off of voltage sent to main modules and connect on one BUS bar. The voltage is tiny and any variation can cause a fault. The result is that a bad module can send the wrong voltage and end up affecting different components entirely and seemingly randomly. That's why it really isn't a diy fix. It's not cost effective to have the equipment to track it down.

Chances are that you have one failing module affecting the system. You just need someone to tell you which one!

Just think, you can't even replace a battery in many recent makes yourself, since the car needs to be reprogrammed by a dealer after power is interrupted. At least the W210 allows for sync procedures without computer help.

wnobles111

I took "Satan" (that's what my wife is beginning to call the car) to dinner last night. On the way through "the hood" the car spontaniously unlocked all four doors and turned on the front and rear dome lights. The locks would not re-lock with the button, however, the lights went off by pressing the overhead switches. All the way to dinner, the indicator light on the trunk release button was doing a disco flash. When I came back to the car after dinner, the dome lights were on. I am beginning to think that dsmith is correct, some module somewhere is failing...too many systems are affected. As a last ditch, before taking the car to the shop, I am trying a room dehumidifier to see if the cold, wet weeks might have a contributed to a moisture buildup in the car. It's been on for about three hours now.

MG

lights and locks in the middle of the hood.

See, that right there is comedy.

wnobles111

Well, the dehumidifier did not seem to have any effect on the problem. Now, the dome lights only come on with the overhead switch, the trunk and anti-towing switches indicator lights are on, the lights don't flash when the lock button on the remote is pushed. I guess I'll be making the dreaded trip to the dealership next week...

wnobles111

This morning, I went to drive the car to church and found that the new battery was dead, not just low, but completely dead. I wonder what was on last night that killed the battery? Sir Sam, another member, stated that he had replaced a control module under the rear seat and it had "cured" his window problem. Does anyone know where this module is located? Can I get one from AutohauzAZ or some other place? Has anyone replaced this module?

Lancelot

Are you using one and the same smartkey during all this misery? I would suggest taking the battery out of this key and leave it out so the key cannot send any infrared or RF. Then start using ONLY the second (or spare) smartkey and see what happens...

wnobles111

I've tried both smartkeys, and the buttons on the console...nothing seems to matter. In looking around, I found the multi-function relay on the fuse block under the back seat. Also, there are three relays in the fuse box under the hood. You have to remove several screws from the fusebox to get to them. I located all of these relays at AutohausAZ and they cost only $7.99 to $12.99 each, so I ordered them all! I only suspect the one under the rear seat, but what the heck, if you order over $50 the shipping is free. Got the stuff for an oil change and a new wiper blade too! All cost only $57 with free shipping. The parts should arrive Friday afternoon. I will start replacing the relays one at a time starting with the one under the backseat. Hopefully this will solve the problem. I'll report back. Meanwhile I am recharging the new battery!

MG

GL with the fix Nobles.

Do me a favor? Take pictures. Detail the replacement process with pics and I will post this thread in the DIY/Informational sticky.

dsmith

Probably the PSE. It controls the vacuum functions and is part of the interior CAN BUS system. That and the Lower Control Module are most often the cause, usually from liquids getting in them, but you really need to get it scanned to be sure. Either is over $500 for the part.

Link to thread with a pdf files explaining the system in post #4.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...d.php?t=186706

wnobles111

Got all the parts I ordered from AutohauzAZ tonight, will start replacing parts tomorrow, and I will photo them as I go. Hopefully, this will solve my problems! I need to plead ignorance here. What is a PSE? Is it located in the foam block under the rear seat? I think that is a vacuume pump as it cycles when the doors lock/unlock.

wnobles111

Good morning everyone. I started working on replacing all of the relays today. After reconnecting the battery I pulled the relay under the back seat and replaced it...no effect. Then, one by one, pulled and replaced the three relays in the fuse box under the hood...still no effect. I took it for a drive hoping to "top off" the battery with a good charge. Still no change. After a careful analysis of the symptoms, I find that: The trunk indicator lamp in the console is still on, the anti-tow light on the dash is still on, the dome lights only work by pushing the buttons on the overhead console, it sounds like a hamster is living in the airconditioner vent on the driver's side near the light switch (a crunching, rattling sound sporatically occurs) the turn signals blink too rapidly, but still work and the doors lock and unlock at will. I guess Monday I will take it to the dealer and see what they say. (The sunroof and windows seem to have stopped lowering themselves) Hey! At least I got a new wiper blade out of the deal!

n42w88

I've been reading this thread like a mystery book... I'm on the edge of my seat waiting to hear if the butler (hamster) did it.

My money is on the PSE or the driver's side SAM (signal acquisition module)...

wnobles111

Well, Monday was not a convenient day for the dealer...I have an appointment for service on Wednesday (tomorrow). I'm sure glad I have a Chevy pickup to drive while all of this is going on!

dterryodoanlen

I was definitely reading this with interest. This sounds SO similar to the feature "summer convenience". Outside the car, you can lower the windows and open the sunroof with a single press of a fob UNLOCK button...to raise them (still standing outside car) you hold down the LOCK button.

I'm unclear if you tried these?

1) Check key fob battery and buttons (in this order)
- removing battery to stop transmitting
- inspect the "unlock" button on fob (is it pushed in, even a little)?
- fresh fob battery
2) Reset the remote mode for auto window settings (I do this after each battery disconnect).

wnobles111

It is definately not the key fob, I've tried both fobs, changed the batteries in one and retried them. These things happen when the fob is nowhere near the car. I am aware of the window up/window down feature of the fob, but it is like the signal is being sent without the fob being used or near the car. This morning, I hooked the battery back up, and when I did, the burgler alarm went off. I could not reset it by pressing the buttons on the fob, nor by locking and unlocking the door or even by starting the car with the fob. (made for an interesting drive to the dealership!) After about 15 minutes the alarm turned off by itself. The rear dome light has quit working altogether now, the front dome light must be contolled by the overhead switch. The lights for the trunk and tow switches are still lit and the turn signals flash too rapidly. I reset the sunroof, windows, radio, seats and ABS/BAS functions and drove it to the dealership. I left a printout of this thread and the old factory relays on the front seat. It will be interesting to see what they are able to find out. Any guesses on the bill?