It can be pretty easy if you have the correct tools and the steering wheel bolt is not seized too tight or was put on with thread locker. Make sure you have a long breaker bar and a propane torch just in case. Be sure to support the steering wheel so as not to damage the ignition lock mechanism.
Sites like peachparts, parts.com, buymbparts.biz can usually get the switch (called a combination switch) cheaper than at a dealer.
Some tips - 1) make sure the steering wheel is fully extended before disconnecting the battery and before disconnecting the air bag. Under no circumstances turn on the key with the air bag disconnected, 2) there is a spec for the distance from the 'lock ring' on the steering shaft to the bracket which the combination switch mounts to. It is 30 +/- 0.5 mm and 3) put a little thread locker on the clamp screw of that bracket. it's prone to come lose. Air bag screws (2) are T30 and you need about a 2" long bit to reach them. Steering wheel bolt is 10mm hex and torque is 80Nm.
Thanks to both of you. I should add, the reason the for doing this is below. Have you heard of this before and how would a guy test the switch before taking the steering wheel apart? Here's my problem:
Here's the thing - I suspect a bad switch in the directional lever control at the left side of steering column. Symptom: With high beams on, AND right turn signal on, engine stalls on the spot. Like the key is turned off. Same thing happens when high beam "flash" is used. Both directionals with low beams or no lights work OK. When fog lights are on, I get a buzzing sound at the lamp switch. Push switch back, buzzing stops. No blown fuses. Turn off the lights, the car starts up & runs fine. My mechanic suspects the buzzing is a power back feed because of a problem at the directional switch. Everything else works fine and these symptoms are can be reproduced consistenly. Anyone know about this? How big a job to replace the directional / high beam switch? Thanks in advance
First, a add-on to my previous tips - Before removing the steering wheel make a mark (scribe) on both halves of the spline joint. It's easy to be off by one spline when reinstalling and not notice until you go out for the first drive.
I'm not aware of any test of the combo switch other than a basic functional one. Bear in mind that in these CAN bus cars electronics are handled indirectly. That is, turning a switch doesn't complete a circuit to a device but instead sends a signal to the ECU which in turn sends a signal to the device. It does sound like your problem is a little more complicated than just a bad combo switch - but that's just a guess.
on this one. Seems like any high draw item is causing the car to die.
So either it is an electrical circuit issue or the Can network through a relay.
You could try and guess at it and spend time and 80 bucks on the stalk.
Or Get it on an sds scanner and run the diagnostic to be sure.
Either way something is not happy in the system and if it shorts out you will be even less happy dash fires are no fun
00-02 drivers side heated self dimming mirror glass O2 sensors plug and play 17mm special spark plug boot tool Spring loaded u joint spark plug socket 722.6 transmission dipstick W210 W124 parts Cryo rotors
Brake pads F.S.
Cognomen is in homage to the late great Janis Joplin "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz"
I learned some more about this strange engine stalling problem, here goes:
With light switch on low beam only, honking the horn ALSO causes engine to stall. This, and the high beam / right turn signal stalling mentioned before are consistent and reproduceable. Horn works fine with out the lights on.
When the light switch is turned to low beam position,no other accessories on, after 1-2 seconds, I get "lamp defective" on the display. Also consistent. No warning display at standing lamp position.
The pass side headlights, turn signal lamp, and standing lamps are all dimmer than normal. This on the passenger side only. Driver side acts normally.
Again on the pass side only, the high beam lamp terminal shows only 6V when the high beam switch is at "on" position. When in "flash" position, it shows 13V.
The headlight switch has a constant buzzing sound when in fog lamp position.
I thought this whole thing could be traced back to the main headlight switch, cuz it acts like some kind of voltage drop or short of some kind, bad ground. That seemed sensible with fuses and lots of power being routed through the assembly. UNTIL, I happened across the horn/light combination. Do you know if the horn power is also routed through the light switch assembly? I can't find a fuse for the horn in any of the three panels. So far codes haven't shown up anything conclusive. Now the shop up here wants to take the steering column apart, which sounds crazy expensive if there's no logical path to follow. Given all this info, do you guys have any thoughts on what makes sense to try first? I'll appreciate any input!
However! Had a local independent MB shop do some circuit tracing and found the problem to be very simple.... and CHEAP to fix!
All those crazy problems with lights and horn , engine stallling, were ALL caused by a poor connection at a common ground point. It's on the inside of the fender wall. New ground bolt, the car et al works just right. Never would've known where to start or where to look for the ground. Cost about $100.00 to cure. CHEAP, but wish I would've found it myself!!!!
Now on to the sunroof switch. Acting up occasionally. Ever replace one?
My 2001 E320 turning signal is acting up. Upon turning on the ignition the left turning signal came on. No intention to turn left. Right turn signal position turns on the right blinker - good; left turn position turns on left signal - good; neutral (no -turning) position always stuck to left turning signal - not good!
Please help if you know the fix!