michakaveli

I'm assuming that this means it's time for pad replacement?

Would this mean front or back, prolly front. I'm not sure of there are sensors on the rear calipers. Ironically the lamp came on when I released the parking brake from visiting the ATM..heheh

My front rotors look to be in good shape and no real vibrations while braking, but by hearing that these rotors are usually "soft" I'll be looking at replacing the pads, sensors and rotors.

What equipment would you guys recommend? Slotted rotors maybe? I travel about 3-400 miles per week at max and usually in suburban areas. How much longer would be an educated guess to the pads lasting? If I go all OEM parts I'll probably order them from the Benzbin.Com

I would need:
Pads
Sensors
Rotors?

What have I missed?

Jer

At least on the W124 the warning lamp is for the front brakes only. The wear sensor is mounted inside a groove on the inside brake pad. When it touches the rotor the lamp illuminates. Textar makes good replacement pads. Zimmerman has cross-drilled rotors. The sensors are from MB.

Benz

Just a heads up....If your changing your brake pads and your rotors are not new, buy new brakes and new rotors. Cause what happens is, if you buy brakes and your rotors go out in a few months and you have to buy new rotors the brake pads will need to be replaced due to being wore down to your old rotors. Dont get me wrong, you can use your old brake pads with new rotors, but your brakes will not work good and you may encounter squeaking.

Also....I would recommend the Zimmerman cross-drilled rotors as said above and get the OEM brake pads. I have used a few after market pads and they never seemed to work as good as the OEM for some odd reason. You do not have to get new sensors. Only pads and rotors.

Good luck bro

michakaveli

Did you ever use the Zimmerman rotors? or experience anyone with them?

E-Klasse

You should have a sensor on the right rear pad. Most of the time your rear brakes last twice as long as the fronts depending on how often your traction control light comes on. Most of the stopping is done on the front brakes. If only the fronts were changed in the last brake job then now it might be time for both front and rear. Depending on how many miles you have on your car now you could be due for new rotors depending on their thickness. The thing to avoid would be just putting new pads on and then having the rotors warp 6 months from now. Get the crossed drilled rotors if you need new ones. You will need pads and sensors for the front and right rear to do a full job.

jimmydagreek

If you want to go with cross-drilled/slotted rotors for the front, you can find Brembo's on ebay that are OEM fit for pretty cheap. Here is the link. Check them out.

michakaveli

The indicator comes on when I apply the parking brake?

I've gone to a few parts websites and they have a parking brake shoe sets? They look like they are for drum brakes...... I'm lost....

Anyway back to the cross-drilled rotors. Would yopu guys install them yourselves or stick totally to OEM? I don't do aggressive driving, "that often" and they just look nice installed.....

Whitey, give me a holla back on this one....

E-Klasse

I installed Brembo cross drilled rotors on the front of mine. They fit like OEM rotors and can take more aggressive driving. Even if you don't drive aggressively they are better because they resist heat buildup and warping.

The Park/Emergency brake indicator should come on when you apply it. It lets you know that it is set so that you don't drive with the park/emergency brake on. They are brake shoes instead of pads and look like drum brakes shoes.

michakaveli

Did you buy them on Ebay?

affalterbach

I bought a set of Brembo's from Ebay and they worked out well. Do NOT get slotted rotors for a street application, they will eat your pads in no time. If you want low dusting premium pads, try porterfield. I got a set from www.reswest.com. Great stopping power. Also, you might want to check your rear pads for wear as the 210 cars have sensors on the rear as well. If the rears are worn, you can get away with just changing them with OEM pads.

dallasdriver

I got this same light, a few days ago, thanks for the post, how many miles you got, I have 28, and replaced pads at 21, but I know for a fact that I warped my rotors after throwing the hose on them to clean my wheels.

dallasdriver

what is this going to cost? a few months ago I had a nice 1,000 bill.

michakaveli

I've got 139,600 on mine now. I'm assuming it's the rear brakes...
The rotors have visible groves in them. I think I've gonna redo the rears with new sensors, rotors, pads. I'll leave the fronts till spring.

dallasdriver

bump...price?

E-Klasse

Depending on the brand of pads and rotors plan on about $300 in parts to do the whole car. Pads are sold in a set for front and and a set for the rear at about $40 a set. So that is $80 to do the whole car. Sensors are about $3 each so that adds another $9, 2 in front 1 in the rear. Rotors are $130 to $180 a pair for crossdrilled and $45 to $65 for standard. I put crossdrilled rotors in the front and standard rotors in the rear and replaced the pads and sensors myself. Do it yourself and save $500 to $700 bucks on labor.

dallasdriver

any diy's on this?

dallasdriver

http://www.mercedesshop.com/e_class_brakejob.htm

I forgot that I can use the search function also.

AJChenMPH

Bump...anyone got any DIY instructions on the rear brakes? That link is only for the front brakes for a W210...

Thanks.

E-Klasse

Rear brakes are even easier than the fronts. There is just a spring clip held down by 2 pins. You drive the pins out and pop the clip off and pull the pads out of the caliper. You can remove the caliper and take the rotors off with no problem too.

gstigler

I just did all four wheels on my car last night. It took about 1.5 hours and $250 in parts for everything. Order 3 sensors and replace all the harware too.

The rears are similar to the W124 so follow those DIY instructions.

Use brake parts cleaner on the calipers and mating surfaces of the wheel/rotor/hub. Also make sure you put anti squeel compound between the pads and calipers.

Dealers charge over $1100 for this job.

stemags

I highly recommend porterfields,as someone who likes to get on the car too.Great power,no heavy foot.I was a bit suprised by having excess wear on the right front from the OEMpagids.Now there is almost no dust.And I would definitely go with cross drilled rotors,if they do wear less.

affalterbach

If you decide to go with cross drilled rotors, make sure you do not get them slotted. Slotted rotors are great on the track, however on the street, they will greatly reduce the life of your brake pads.

michakaveli

I ended up replacing the rotors with the ATE(Teves) and the TexTar pads up front. The response I would say is that it has a soft peddle feel. Surprisingly I've noticed that iiregardless of how low the pads are it hasn't affected my peddle feel or the amount that the pedal has to travel to provide sufficient braking. Next time I'm going to try those Porterfield pads. I'll install those for the rears when I get around to it in the spring....

Just wanted to give an update on the products of choosen and their performance thus far...

gstigler

I think pedal travel and pedal feel are dependent primarily on the performance of the master cylinder, brake lines and quality of brake fluid. Pad material will probably also have some effect on the "grabbiness" of the brakes. I initially thought that new pads may change the pedal travel/fell but each caliper position is independent of the master cylinder our feet apply pressure to. And there is always the same amount of fluid in the system.

Blah blah... anyway, I just put Zimmerman rotors on my car and am very happy with them so far.

kjoan64

I have a 1995 C220..can you put aftermarket pads and rotors on it and do you have to get the brake sensors from Mercedes dealer?