Rear Driver's Side Window Stuck Down
07-16-2014, 11:18 AM
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2000 Mercedes Benz E320
Rear Driver's Side Window Stuck Down
So I just bought my 2000 E320 yesterday. When I bought it the rear driver's side window was working just fine, I probably put it up and down 4 or 5 times that day.
Now here's the problem. I was rolling it up and when it got to the top I heard like a "chunk" sound. So I rolled it back down and tried to roll it back up... not sure why I thought that would fix the sound, but what's done is done. Anyway now it is stuck down. When I try to roll it up I can hear the motor trying to bring it up, but to no avail.
Has anyone else had this issue? Does it sound like it just fell off track or will it need a new regulator? I'm in Ohio so it could rain any second, so getting the window to stay up (honestly that's way more important than getting it to come back down ever again) is rather time sensitive. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
Now here's the problem. I was rolling it up and when it got to the top I heard like a "chunk" sound. So I rolled it back down and tried to roll it back up... not sure why I thought that would fix the sound, but what's done is done. Anyway now it is stuck down. When I try to roll it up I can hear the motor trying to bring it up, but to no avail.
Has anyone else had this issue? Does it sound like it just fell off track or will it need a new regulator? I'm in Ohio so it could rain any second, so getting the window to stay up (honestly that's way more important than getting it to come back down ever again) is rather time sensitive. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
07-16-2014, 12:34 PM
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Window regulator broken. I just replaced one this past weekend. Total cost about $60 including S&H and me performing the work myself. Total time about two hours labor but it actually took me overnight as I had to give time for some adhesive to dry (See below).
Pelican Parts has the window lift regulator ($54). Purchase several of the Fastener Clips (inner door panel) $1 each because several will break coming off the door. Same parts are also available from other fine vendors.
You'll need a drill to drill out the old rivets plus four new 1/8" rivets and a rivet tool. In my case, when I pried the fastener clips loose from the door, several of the mounts pulled loose from the panel; in those cases I used adhesive (silicon seal or rubber cement) to reattach the fastener brackets to the door; I had to do the same to the strip at the top of the panel that holds the panel to the clips next to the window. I allowed the adhesive to cure for at least 12 hours.
Connectors for the light at the bottom of the door are a pain to remove and install; take your time.
Cable for the door handle; at the end that connects to the inner handle, pull the cable sheath back away from the handle until the end of the sheath clears the bracket. Release the outer sheath and you will now have slack to disconnect the cable from the inner handle. When reassembling, *remember to reverse the process with the cable sheath*. If you don't, the inner door handle will not function because of too much slack in the cable.
Two good links for you:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...placement.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...cal-order.html
Painter's tape will keep the window up for now but you'll need to pull the door panel off.
Edit: you'll need to reprogram the auto-open and close for the switch. After completing the install, raise the window to full up position and hold the switch there for over 5 seconds. Then lower the window to the full down position and hold the switch there for over 5 seconds. This will put the proper lift count into the electronics. Note: when I say "hold the switch", I mean just enough to activate the switch. If you push it to the détente or "auto" position (ie. if you feel it "click" into the auto position) the setting will not take. It took me several attempts to get it right.
Good luck.
Pelican Parts has the window lift regulator ($54). Purchase several of the Fastener Clips (inner door panel) $1 each because several will break coming off the door. Same parts are also available from other fine vendors.
You'll need a drill to drill out the old rivets plus four new 1/8" rivets and a rivet tool. In my case, when I pried the fastener clips loose from the door, several of the mounts pulled loose from the panel; in those cases I used adhesive (silicon seal or rubber cement) to reattach the fastener brackets to the door; I had to do the same to the strip at the top of the panel that holds the panel to the clips next to the window. I allowed the adhesive to cure for at least 12 hours.
Connectors for the light at the bottom of the door are a pain to remove and install; take your time.
Cable for the door handle; at the end that connects to the inner handle, pull the cable sheath back away from the handle until the end of the sheath clears the bracket. Release the outer sheath and you will now have slack to disconnect the cable from the inner handle. When reassembling, *remember to reverse the process with the cable sheath*. If you don't, the inner door handle will not function because of too much slack in the cable.
Two good links for you:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...placement.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...cal-order.html
Painter's tape will keep the window up for now but you'll need to pull the door panel off.
Edit: you'll need to reprogram the auto-open and close for the switch. After completing the install, raise the window to full up position and hold the switch there for over 5 seconds. Then lower the window to the full down position and hold the switch there for over 5 seconds. This will put the proper lift count into the electronics. Note: when I say "hold the switch", I mean just enough to activate the switch. If you push it to the détente or "auto" position (ie. if you feel it "click" into the auto position) the setting will not take. It took me several attempts to get it right.
Good luck.
Last edited by bbirdwell; 07-16-2014 at 12:38 PM.
