jejohn3

1999 E320 Wagon
My problem is that when I go to start the car sometimes it will start right up, other times you turn the key and nothing happens. You turn it off and then turn the car on but do not go to start and wait till you can here the cabin fan come on and then it will start. Also it my take turning the car on and off several times before the fan starts. This is all random. One time it started up and part of the electrical system did not work, turn signals and fan. As a side note it may have started happening about the same time the drivers side rear quarter panel got a lot of water in because the drain was clogged up but I don't think the two are connected.

HappyWagon

Hi jejohn3,
When you say "...turn the key and nothing happens...", do you mean it seems as though there is no key in the ignition?
First, I'd run diagnostics on the climate control unit to confirm battery voltage is proper.
If battery is proper, then confirm fuse for K40 relay is good. If so, then could be faulty K40, and/or a faulty ignition switch.

jejohn3

Thanks for your reply. When I turn the key the engine does not start, turn over, as if no current is going to the starter; the windows, radio and other stuff works but the fan starts up slowly or begins to run after a while when it does run.

HappyWagon

Please visit the following to see battery voltage by running diagnostics on your climate control unit.

http://www.eclassbenz.com/2010/02/ho...-malfunctions/

Sensor number 24 is the battery in volts.
When engine OFF should be 12.5+. With engine ON should be 13.6+.

Now...with engine OFF...
Top up battery with Distilled water only.
Ensure terminals and connections are clean and secure, then cover them in a light coating of petroleum jelly.

210 Chassis (from 9/95)
READING SENSOR VALUES
1. IGNITION : Position 1
2. Press the AUTO button
3. Set both temperature selectors to 72 degrees F.
4. Press the REST button for more than 5 seconds.
5. The display will show the number "1" and the in-car temperature.
6. Press the AUTO button and the next component number and its value will be displayed.
7. Press the REST button to end the test program.

COMPONENT UNDER TEST
Number | Component
01 In-Car Temperature Sensor with Aspirator Blower (B10/4)
02 Outside Temperature Sensor (B14)
03 Left Heater Core Temperature Sensor (B10/1)
04 Right Heater Core Temperature Sensor (B10/1)
05 Evaporator Temperature Sensor (B10/6)
06 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor (A/C) (B1/4)
07 Refrigerant Pressure in Bar
08 Refrigerant Temperature Sensor (B12/1)
10 Blower Control Voltage
11 Emissions (Refrigerant Leak) Sensor (B31)
12 Sun (Excessive Heat) Sensor (B32)
20 Control Current for Auxiliary Fan exp. : 7 = 7 mA
21 Engine RPM. example 00..99 (x100) = 9900
22 Vehicle Speed
23 PIN 58D exp. 99.0 = 99% of Battery Voltage
24 Battery Voltage : 12.8 = 12,8 Volt
40 Software Version Encoded
41 Hardware Version

210 Chassis from 9/95
FAULT DIAGNOSIS
1. IGNITION : Position 1
2. Left Temperature selector wheel : HI
Right Temperature selector wheel : LO
3. Within 20 seconds press the REST and EC buttons simultaneously for more than 5 seconds.
4. The LED in the RECIRCULATE button flashes and "dI R" appears on the display
5. Press the right AUTO button until all DTC's are displayed and recorded.
6. To erase, all codes must be read out. Press both AUTO buttons simultaneously for more than 2 seconds. "d" will be displayed
on the left and "FF" is displayed on the right. The erase can be canceled by pressing the AUTO.
7. Reset temperature selector to normal setting.
8. IGNITION : OFF to end the test program.

FAULT CODES - 210 Chassis from 9/95
DTC Readout | Description
026 CAN - Communication
226 In-Car Air Temperature Sensor (B10/4)
227 Outside Air Temperature Sensor (B14)
228 Left Heater Core Temperature Sensor (B10/1)
229 Right Heater Core Temperature Sensor (B10/1)
230 Evaporator Temperature Sensor (B10/6)
231 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (B10/
232 Refrigerant Pressure Sensor (B12)
233 Refrigerant Temperature Sensor (B12/1)
234 Sun Sensor (B32)
235 Emissions (Refrigerant Leak) Sensor (B31)
241 Refrigerant Level
416 Coolant Circulation Pump (M13)
417 Left Duovalve (Water Valve) (Y21y1)
418 Right Duovalve (Water Valve) (Y21y2)
419 A/C Compressor Electromagnetic Clutch (A9k1)
420 Closed (Idle) Throttle Speed Increase
421 Pulse Module
422 Serial Interface Connection (K1) to Instrument Cluster (IC)
423 Switchover Valve Block (Y11)
424 Activated Charcoal Filter Actuator (A32m2) : OPEN
425 Activated Charcoal Filter Actuator (A32m2) : CLOSE
432 Maximum Heat
459 Serial Interface Connection (K2) to Instrument Cluster (IC)
462 Wide Open Throttle (WOT) Position Signal - Diesel Engine Only

Read more: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w210/195895-e430-98-problem-air-conditioner.html#ixzz36Lqf9K5G

Also see the following sticky (persistent link at the top of the forum) for Climate Control at: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/

jejohn3

Hi I performed the component and fault tests and these are the results


Results#24 battery voltage off 11.6/8 on 13.3/5 after running and off 12



07 Refrigerant Pressure in Bar 5
10 Blower Control Voltage 27
12 Sun (Excessive Heat) Sensor (B32) 4.3
20 Control Current for Auxiliary Fan exp. : 7 = 7 mA 3.2
23 PIN 58D exp. 99.0 = 99% of Battery Voltage 32
fault code ? the display gave (only one or I was unable to scroll down)
EB1 fan symbol 234


also under the component test there where numbers
#42 value was 40
#43 136




Can you help me interpret these values.
And thank you for being so generous we your time in assisting me
one note the battery is less that 6 months old an AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 900 CCA


Edward

Plutoe

The important one is the refrigerant pressure, yours is 5----should be 15-17---you either have a bad compressor or you are low on refrigerant---don't do something S or D and just put refrigerant in and possibly over filling system-----go to an AC shop and have it done correctly!!

jejohn3

While the refrigerant pressure is low and should be checked, thanks for the info. Does it relate the my over all starting problem?

jejohn3

This is the complete list of the diagnostic values at the time:




210 Chassis (from 9/95)
READING SENSOR VALUES

COMPONENT UNDER TEST
Number | Component
01 In-Car Temperature Sensor with Aspirator Blower (B10/4) 80
02 Outside Temperature Sensor (B14) 73
03 Left Heater Core Temperature Sensor (B10/1) 80
04 Right Heater Core Temperature Sensor (B10/1) 80
05 Evaporator Temperature Sensor (B10/6) 78
06 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor (A/C) (B1/4) 75
07 Refrigerant Pressure in Bar 5
08 Refrigerant Temperature Sensor (B12/1) 73
10 Blower Control Voltage 27
11 Emissions (Refrigerant Leak) Sensor (B31) 0.0
12 Sun (Excessive Heat) Sensor (B32) 4.3
20 Control Current for Auxiliary Fan exp. : 7 = 7 mA 3.2
21 Engine RPM. example 00..99 (x100) = 9900 32 engine off
22 Vehicle Speed 0
23 PIN 58D exp. 99.0 = 99% of Battery Voltage 32
24 Battery Voltage : 12.8 = 12,8 Volt off 11.6/8 running 13.3/5 after running 12
40 Software Version Encoded 165
41 Hardware Version 85


??


42 40
43 136



210 Chassis from 9/95
FAULT DIAGNOSIS




FAULT CODES - 210 Chassis from 9/95
DTC Readout | Description




234 Sun Sensor (B32)

HappyWagon

Hi jejohn,
Unfortunately, I'm no expert.
I urge you to post all your results to the following site, where the owner will provide feedback.

http://www.eclassbenz.com/2010/02/ho...-malfunctions/

Regarding your starting issue...
First, with engine OFF, top up battery with Distilled water only.
Ensure terminals and connections are clean (use new wire brush) and secure, then cover them in a light coating of petroleum jelly.

After a few days of driving, which will allow the added Distilled water to charge, reassess the starting issue.
Now check your battery's voltage again.
If starting issue persists, then I'd
<table width="100%" align="center" class="tborder" style="border-top-width: 0px;" border="0" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="4"><tbody><tr title="Post 6117968" valign="top"><td class="alt1">confirm fuse for K40 relay is good. If so, then could be faulty K40, and/or a faulty ignition switch. </td></tr><tr><td class="thead" colspan="2"></td></tr></tbody></table>

Plutoe

Quote--While the refrigerant pressure is low and should be checked, thanks for the info. Does it relate the my over all starting problem?--Unquote

You were asked to run the AC actual value and fault test---It is obvious that the person who suggested that is unaware-----those tests have nothing to do with vehicle starting problems---they are specific---for AC issues

Your on off starting issue is with the drive authorization system--includes the key, ignition switch and ECU plus all the mechanicals such as---starter, K40, bla bla

They all have to be tested to find the issue---<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

nelbur

No, the A\C problem has no relationship to the starting problem. The likely components to be involved in a "failure to crank" problem are 1. A bad starter, 2. A bad relay in the relay box, 3. A bad electrical portion in the ignition switch, or 4. A bad neutral safety switch. Try starting with the shifter in N instead of P to see if just changing the shift lever position solves the problem. If so the neutral safety switch is suspect. If the problem happens only occasionally, and if the starter sounds normal when it does crank, I would suspect the ignition switch, but try unplugging and replugging the plugs and the fuses on the relay box (may be called K 40 relay on your car), to make sure the connections are good.

michalk

I believe a bad fuel pump failing to make pressure also causes this problem. Waiting about 30 seconds after the first try seems to clear it up. Probably covered under the fuel pump recall.

podz

I am having similar problems as well.