Sayzero

Hello to all. I am a new user but not new to the board itself. Therefore I want to say thank you for those who reply. I am in sort of a confused state per the repair of a dent that happen that week driving through a cemetery. I have spoken to many shops and I think that has added to my confusion as to how to proceed. I have a passenger rear dent on bottom of door, see pics. My issues is how to repair it so I know that it never happen if that is possible. The car is 15 years old and I want the paint and clear to match without issue. I am concern about expanding the area of repair per blending that may make my car look new or clean one side but not the other. The shops want to blend while two shops told me I could take out the dent and paint and clear the door at the bottom of the trim and the bottom area only without blending it on other areas on the car. The one cut off the line at the trim where there is only 1 inch left from the edge. I am not sure about this but per cost it sounds attractive. I don't mind spending more to get it right either. I hope you can advise and look over my pics. I don't want a 1/2 **** job just don't want my car to look new on one side while the rest is 15 years old. Although my shine and looks great per the base and clear. I would like to know what others think about only repairing and painting the bottom of the door and clear only? What about blending under panel trim and blend into front door at bottom only? I had two shops tell me they would repair dent and clear coat the entire door itself. I want the right job but don't know what the right job is? I don't want high gloss and not so high gloss or less gloss on other parts of my door. I like the idea of min. area and keeping down at the door level. I am in fear that once you clean up both doors it will look new vs old 15 year old paint and clear that still looks great.

Thank you for those who contribute to help solving my problem.

James Sullo

Hi, I a retired auto claims adjuster and body shop owner and I took a look at your pix. It appears to be a "crease" with surrounding "dented area" and I'd bet the paint is broken through by looking at the resulting scratches caused by the impact. Being the car is silver, straight on panel matching on a 15 year old car is going to be hit and miss, but not impossible. Two approaches come to mind. Firstly, I've personally seen the "Dent Wizard" guys get these types of damages fixed using their methods. If you're not familiar, they access the damage from behind and slowly and gently work the metal back into shape. No grinding or bondo. This is a plus because once the metal is straight again, a paint shop would only have to prep the scratches which would keep the repair area to a minimum. I believe the repair can be "spot painted (meaning the primer and subsequent color would be concentrated on a smaller area). Once a color match is achieved and spot painted, then the lower portion of the door below the molding could be fully clear coated. I think you would have favorable results since the area painted with new color would be reduced to the damaged area and not the entire lower panel. This means the original color would mostly remain and minimize the possibility of have fresh paint right next to an undamaged panel. In the trade it's called "blend within panel" Remember, you are dealing with 15 year old paint. New paint can only be tailored to match just so far. You can't find "fade in a can" although there are "flattening compounds that can be added etc. All painters tricks. I would stay away from anyone who only wants to paint the entire door or start blending into adjacent panels. Even if the Dent Wizard option doesn't work for you, a shop could keep the repaired area to a minimum and still do the spot paint/blend within panel method. Painting below the molding is an excellent break off point and If I were doing the job, would remove the molding during the repair/repaint process. I hope this helps. KEEP IT SIMPLE! By the way, I've done a repair on the bottom of my left front fender using the same method. My E320 is white with clear coat. I painted below the molding and did not go into the door. The paint match was 90% using "off the shelf color and clear coat." I was very pleased with the results. Yes I knew the paint was slightly off, but nobody who'd seen the car even noticed and the fact it was a lower panel and a small area helped with the overall final results. Hope this helps!

Sayzero

Thank you for your time and validation. I agree with your assessment and plan to go somewhat the route you shared with one exception. I called those great people who could possibly work it out but they determined they could not do it with 100% satisfaction. I have already dropped it off to a body shop local to me and they as I have determined to repair the dent and burn the clear right at or under the panel. I believe as you stated that it will keep the damage and or repair at the bottom an thus at a minimum. They also suggested as another shop did also to clear coat the entire door. I have said no due to the fact the finish is 15 years old and the door would stand out too much. I will receive new paint and clear on the bottom panel. I also asked the shop too if it could be worked out but told me the crease is too much. I am hoping and praying for the best results...I cannot say thank you enough...It has been racking my brain for days as which way to go since other shops wanted to blend into other areas. I gratefully thank you for your time and expertise....

James Sullo

Sounds like you made the right choice. I agree with your decision NOT to clear coat the entire door. The shop should take the molding off and end the clear coat of the lower panel underneath the molding. This way there is no masking at the molding which would lend to peeling in the future.
Also, it's true that Dent Wizard has to look at the damage and evaluate the results as it depends on the severity. Conventional body repair should work out fine provided the shop is experienced and quality oriented and "blending within panel" will in my opinion offer the best results under the circumstances. Thankfully it's a lower panel which is not as scrutinized as say an upper door, fender or hood. Be sure the shop will mask the door jambs and remove the necessary trim where the painting will take place. It's always advisable to discuss rather than assume how they will approach the repair. Also, were you able to see any of their finished work? When I had my body shop I would always take the time and give a concerned customer the "25 cent" tour of my shop, showing the various stages of repair and paint including finished products. Damaging one's car is stressful enough, and having an unsatisfactory repair is adding insult to injury. Good luck with it!

Sayzero

James,

Yes, they are going to take trim off and cut the line center of panel to 1 inch edge of door. Yes, they showed me around, read all reviews and looked at some of their cars. They are known to do high end cars like Mercedes, BMW's and of course everything else in between. I visit several shops but kept coming back to them at least 3 or 4 times before deciding to take my care there. I believe most companies at that point would have turned me away thinking I am going to be a problem child. I own a company and I would have. This shop has shown great patience and confidence per the car and myself. The manager whose a cousin to the owner was one of two people who first suggested to stay under bottom unlike all the other shops I visited. I did not go back to the fist shop that suggested it because I felt his confidence was not as high was I would have like it to have been. He told me the best he could possibly do is about 92 % on the match. I am not sure if I would have been happy with 92% but his lack of confidence was too low for me. He did give me a great price of 250.00 dollars. The shop I did take it too I believe per my paranoia, obsession, concern and hoovering as I call it they will more than likely, at least hoping for an excellent result. I am amazed more than anything with their patience with me per all the visits and calls. I believe the location of the damage and the repairs serves more than not and will go unnoticed by everyone....I lost an E320 in 2007 per a T bone to the car and bought a BMW for a replacement. I lost the BMW in Feb. and looked for months for this particular car which for me it is relatively new for me. The car is in great shape, less than 100k and all around clean. Lets say you cannot give me a BMW if you had one to give. I could have bought a newer E320 but after 2002 for those I could afford I do not like the style. So, when this occurred it was rather deflating as you can imagine. The car is still like new and even still has that new car smell although faint....I will do a follow a follow up per post repairs and put some pics up too. Again, thank you for all your help it was what I needed to hear....Thanks

P.S. Cost of this repair is 350.00. Other shops went from 590 with many of them at 700.00, 2 being at 1200 and 1 at 1k. The going price seem to have been at 700.00 with blending toward the front door to either rear or bending into the front door. I am a contractor and felt strongly that increasing the area of damage to that extent would make it worse than not. I believe I was right per your comments and suggestions. You validated what I thought and believed although I am rather ignorant when it comes to these things per all the other experts who said to blend...The shop I took it to first suggested I should keep it down under the door.

James Sullo

$350 is a very fair price and kudos to the shop for being patient with you. I once ran a body shop in southern California that specialized in BMW's. I learned a lot about how best to handle the "Beamer pilots" and their zeal for the cars. I share your feelings about choosing a MB over a BMW. I honestly feel they are worlds apart with MB way ahead in the overall German car experience. My daughter has a new Audi A6 with supercharger and I got to ride in it last Sunday. I was very impressed at the fit and finish and ride quality. I don't know enough about the Audi's in terms of long term ownership and dependability. I am very pleased with my 2000 E320 4matic wagon and can't find a reason to spend money on a newer model. My car has contemporary looks, and I don't see myself coming and going at every intersection. I frequently get compliments from complete strangers that the car is so nice looking and clean. Most are shocked when I tell them it's 15 years old! My sister has a 2004 E320 4matic sedan with just over 100k. She bought it new and only takes to to MB for service. She even buys tires from the dealer! I know I know, but she's comfortable with them and doesn't mind paying extra. She's considering buying a new car and if and when that happens I'd consider buying her car to replace my wagon. Although I would miss the convenience and practicality of having a wagon. Especially would miss the third seat. My grandkids love to ride back there and it's nice to be able to haul light cargo from time to time.
Anyway, best of luck with the repair and look forward to seeing the finished pix. Cheers!

Sayzero

I absolutely understand the sisters desire to take it back to the dealer every time. The original owner to mind did the same thing. I did too up until the last year of my 95 E 320. You have to agree the E320's are truly the best out of all them for durability. Like yours, my previous E320 including this one the people are amazed at the age of the car per the finish. My g/f could not understand my obsession with the car until she drove it. Although I am more in loved with my car than she is..Lol....I am waiting for the day she accuses me that I am more in love with the car than her. I hope that day never arrives because I don't want to break her heart..Ha. I tell her it is a total love affair.

I never got the BMW thing when I owned one which was a 528I. They are nice and all but it seems to be more logo than anything else. I could not wait to get myself back into an E320 and here I am back in body shop. The car is suppose to be ready by Fri. and I promise to update. Thanks so much for the info and the good wishes.

John

Sayzero

James,

Here are the pics to the repair. It took only two days and it looks as if it never happened. Thank you for your advice it truly made a difference to which course I took in my repairs. Thanks!

James Sullo

Looks great! As if it never happened. Last picture appears to have something on rocker molding? Is it a reflection? If it's a scratch, try some light polishing compound followed by some polish. Don't apply wax on new paint for at least a month.
Cheers!