Car issues mulitplying, mifire, died when warm, wont crank, and more
08-24-2015, 02:00 PM
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Mercedes-Benz E430 Sport
Car issues mulitplying, mifire, died when warm, wont crank, and more
Hey guys i was hoping to get some help,
and this is going to be very very detailed so it is gonna be long but please bear with me
i have a 2000 e430 and its my first car. i got it for college and it only has about 110k miles on it. when i bought it it was running fine, no errors issues or anything. then one day it rough started *without* an error. so i assumed oh must be cold but somewhere in the back of my head i was thinking, well this is Florida its not THAT cold. so i was ignorant and ignored it, and then one day it got really bad and it turns out i had a misfire in cylinder 8 which is the top right driver side.
And my genius self ignored the misfire.
So one day it dies, luckily right in the entrance of my community. And it doesn't start. i was so confused it was running so fine and i didn't feel any misfire that day so i went home and came back a little later, and it started!
now i knew i shouldn't drive it because what if it stops again?
So my dad, without much thought, decided to buy all 16 spark plugs brand new and i installed them all properly and safely. it still died the next time i went out (just made circles in my community) and it was still feeling shaky. So i check which cylinders were bad with the OBD2 and this time it was saying cylinder 5 and random cylinder misfire and for the shortest time it also gave a 02 sensor error, which has since vanished and never came back. in fact it vanished before i even cleared the error for some reason. so i checked the cylinders the old fashioned way, i started the car, had my dad rev it to around 1k-1.5k rpm, and started unpluging and repluggling the spark controllers (its a little square with 2 COP coils coming out covering the spark plugs). i would unplug the control cable and see if the engine struggled, and all the cylinders caused the engine to struggle when unplugged *except* cylinder 5. so i bought a new block for that and well enough, no misfire! i was so happy i took it for another test spin. and it died. again.
now that i have explained the whole story let me add some data to this
last night i checked both fuel bank Voltages while driving in circles and on bank 2 both sensors were significantly lower than in bank 1 (each bank has 2 sensors).
then let me give some more information so it is better understood.
All the fuses are good (i have not checked the relay), alternator is good, battery is good, coils are all seated properly, sparkplugs were all seated properly, and the car dies only once it has warmed up, and once it has warmed up it does not restart until it is almost completely cooled back down. it usually dies within 20 minutes of start is how long it takes for it to warm up in my community speeds. so if it is warm and i try to start it it cranks a few times and then it doesn't do anything it just makes this click sound.
and this has been a real issue since i really do need this car for college and i cannot afford to repair it at a dealership or someplace special.
also worth noting, it had a coolant message for a little while which i did address, and i had completely removed and put in new oil, and one last thing which i think is odd but might be worth mentioning, it was the first time that i had ever out premium (93 octane) fuel in the car.
is it possible that this could be a fuel pump issue? since the fuel pressure voltage is lower on one?
ALSO ALMOST FORGOT on the OBD2 live data, under Fuel System 1 and 2, it says OL which means open loop, then it switches to CL, which is closed loop, and after a little bit it will go to *OL-Fault* which i assume is another clue as to a fuel system problem? maybe a fuel filter or something?
thanks a lot guys i really will appreciate any help at all
thanks
[IMG]<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=2m496x5" target="_blank"><img src="http://i59.tinypic.com/2m496x5.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>[/IMG]
and this is going to be very very detailed so it is gonna be long but please bear with me
i have a 2000 e430 and its my first car. i got it for college and it only has about 110k miles on it. when i bought it it was running fine, no errors issues or anything. then one day it rough started *without* an error. so i assumed oh must be cold but somewhere in the back of my head i was thinking, well this is Florida its not THAT cold. so i was ignorant and ignored it, and then one day it got really bad and it turns out i had a misfire in cylinder 8 which is the top right driver side.
And my genius self ignored the misfire.
So one day it dies, luckily right in the entrance of my community. And it doesn't start. i was so confused it was running so fine and i didn't feel any misfire that day so i went home and came back a little later, and it started!
now i knew i shouldn't drive it because what if it stops again?
So my dad, without much thought, decided to buy all 16 spark plugs brand new and i installed them all properly and safely. it still died the next time i went out (just made circles in my community) and it was still feeling shaky. So i check which cylinders were bad with the OBD2 and this time it was saying cylinder 5 and random cylinder misfire and for the shortest time it also gave a 02 sensor error, which has since vanished and never came back. in fact it vanished before i even cleared the error for some reason. so i checked the cylinders the old fashioned way, i started the car, had my dad rev it to around 1k-1.5k rpm, and started unpluging and repluggling the spark controllers (its a little square with 2 COP coils coming out covering the spark plugs). i would unplug the control cable and see if the engine struggled, and all the cylinders caused the engine to struggle when unplugged *except* cylinder 5. so i bought a new block for that and well enough, no misfire! i was so happy i took it for another test spin. and it died. again.
now that i have explained the whole story let me add some data to this
last night i checked both fuel bank Voltages while driving in circles and on bank 2 both sensors were significantly lower than in bank 1 (each bank has 2 sensors).
then let me give some more information so it is better understood.
All the fuses are good (i have not checked the relay), alternator is good, battery is good, coils are all seated properly, sparkplugs were all seated properly, and the car dies only once it has warmed up, and once it has warmed up it does not restart until it is almost completely cooled back down. it usually dies within 20 minutes of start is how long it takes for it to warm up in my community speeds. so if it is warm and i try to start it it cranks a few times and then it doesn't do anything it just makes this click sound.
and this has been a real issue since i really do need this car for college and i cannot afford to repair it at a dealership or someplace special.also worth noting, it had a coolant message for a little while which i did address, and i had completely removed and put in new oil, and one last thing which i think is odd but might be worth mentioning, it was the first time that i had ever out premium (93 octane) fuel in the car.
is it possible that this could be a fuel pump issue? since the fuel pressure voltage is lower on one?
ALSO ALMOST FORGOT on the OBD2 live data, under Fuel System 1 and 2, it says OL which means open loop, then it switches to CL, which is closed loop, and after a little bit it will go to *OL-Fault* which i assume is another clue as to a fuel system problem? maybe a fuel filter or something?
thanks a lot guys i really will appreciate any help at all
thanks
[IMG]<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=2m496x5" target="_blank"><img src="http://i59.tinypic.com/2m496x5.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>[/IMG]
Last edited by sajjadahmed; 08-24-2015 at 10:45 PM. Reason: jus cuz
08-31-2015, 03:42 PM
#3
Out Of Control!!
Based upon your tale of wooooooo, I believe you have one or more bad fuel injectors---they ain't cheap and don't even think of putting used(new to your car) injectors in the car.
I also stand corrected however I believe that the injectors must be equal to those cylinders affected and learned in with DAS---this is not a DIY by any means. All this supposition can be confirmed when you have the injectors tested with MB DAS.
You may want to enroll in a work study program at college.
I also stand corrected however I believe that the injectors must be equal to those cylinders affected and learned in with DAS---this is not a DIY by any means. All this supposition can be confirmed when you have the injectors tested with MB DAS.
You may want to enroll in a work study program at college.
Last edited by Plutoe; 08-31-2015 at 03:46 PM.
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