housew

Hey all.


I'm new (again) to the forum. I had a 03 c230k coupe a few years ago and joined and posted sparingly. It was fun but I vowed not to buy another benz without the AMG label since modding it was so pricey.








I've always been into cars and collecting them. Currently drive a tuned f250 diesel and wanted something "more practical" for hauling my toddler around and to commute to work.


I have always wanted a w211 e55, and thought the 210s were fairly ugly, but After reading about reliability and the obvious huge price gap I sprung for a 2000 e55 amg. I haven't driven it much but its everything I want it to be.

housew

bought it with 91,400 miles on it, 3 new Michelin pilot sport a/s 3 on stock corroded monoblocks and a spare wheel. It was in hard limp mode (stuck in 2nd) and had some rust on the front fenders. Interior and motor seemed to be in great shape. I wanted to keep it cheap and picked it up for $2900.


I drove down to see it without my trailer in case I hated it, but ended up renting a u-haul with a flat tire and towing it home



Picked up this set of rims of a w210 s55 amg on the way home.



Turns out they weren't the best choice fit wise. They have 13mm front and 11mm rear more offset than the stock rims and the ball seats are r14 instead of r12. I bought 12mm hubcentric spacers and 55mml r14 m12x1.5 lug bolts from RAD and they bolt up nice now. BUT the front tires that came on the s class rims are 245/45r18 and run into the nut for the upper ball joint. I ordered a matching 4th Michelin PS a/s3 in 240/40r18 to hopefully avoid the nut.


They look nice on there

housew

also polished the headlights. Made a huge difference for $25

2MERKS

Yeah, not a bad deal if you ask me!!! Pics of the interior...taillights looks sprayed (Like the touch). She ready for those cold Maine winters...lol

illest

looks good.

FlatlineEF9

Looks good. Looks like the previous owner put a non amg rear bumper on there tho. Thinking about completing the kit?

housew

honestly didn't notice it was different. Not a lot to compare it to in my world. Attempting to find pics of a 00-02 e55 amg rear bumper is pretty hard since so many are body kits. I think I found the stock one which is pretty similar to mine with a few more edges / bump outs that actually looks less attractive to me.


So probably not looking to swap it back.


my tire arrived today, so if I can finagle my schedule to get it installed I'll be a happy boy.

illest

This is what the rear bumper should look like.

Its not as noticeable on a black car.

housew

cool thanks. I'm all set with out it. I don't dislike the AMG one, but I'm not going out of my way to replace it at the moment.


I got the 245/40r18s mounted late last week and I drove it to work today. First day commuting with it. Got 20.2mpg on my way to work, Not great but not shabby for a v8 4 door.


definitely have some brake vibe which is VERY annoying. I think its coming from my drivers side rear based on hear / feel but I'm going to look everywhere. Not something I want to be dealing with.


Rest of the car is smooth and powerfull, I just don't want to drive it too hard till the brakes are sorted. The pulsating just isn't right.

housew

Talked to the PO and he said he replaced all 4 rotors at MB about 5 years 20k miles ago. He thinks the rotors should be fine but the rears definitely look spanked when I look at them and the rear calipers don't look to be in the best shape either. I'm thinking sitting was a lot worse for them than the miles. I don't want to drop 1k in brakes right now so I'm starting with the rears first since that's where I think the problem is.


I work for IRWIN so I picked up a small pair of vice grips. I was planning to kink the soft line to the driver rear caliper and if the vibe goes away that's clearly the location of the problem. I have no intention of leaving it there, but does that seem like a sound test for finding the source (at least which wheel) the vibe is coming from?

housew

absolutely beautiful car BTW. I would have preferred anything by black but I couldn't be picky in my price range or for my intentions.

housew

Got my new centercaps and rotors installed last night. No more brake vibe.

Tall Giraffe

Which rear rotors did you buy?

FireMechanic

Sweet ride! Not a bad deal at all! Looks like a pretty solid car

housew

I got the eline in silver zinc cross drilled

housew

I'm mad at it now, started a new thread about it not starting.

housew

so back in November when it wouldn't start it was indeed a fried ECU. I popped it open and saw the burn. I ended up getting it fixed by cartech electronics out of the UK. It was a little pricey but not dealer pricey and super easy and fast to deal with.


I put another 3k trouble free miles on it over the winter, really really like the car. Just got it aligned and inspected and now I'm having another problem.

housew

My mum was driving it, stopped in for some breakfast (didn't spill on the shifter) but the car wouldn't start.

Cranks over fast, but never even attempts to catch. Last time I had this issue it was a fried ECU (hopefully not again). Also the key seems to stick in the crank position (have to manually pull it back).

I went over and looked at fuses, didn't have a screw driver, multimeter, scan tool, fuel pressure gauge, or anything so I didn't figure it out. I'm towing it home for tinkering, but my first guess is ignition switch because of the key sticking AND the not starting.


Anyone have thoughts?

housew

I got towed home and sat for a couple hours before I got there. I hooked up the scanner and didn't find anything. No codes or anything, but my reader did talk to it so that was a good sign my ECU wasn't friend again


I hooked up my fuel pressure gauge and it read 60.


tried the key and the car started instantly.


Great, but I won't trust it again until I find out why. It didn't do it again for another 30 starts and several weeks until today.

housew

wife was going to drive it to the beach so I hopped in, started it, washed it, went to start it again to get the AC going for her and nothing. Same deal as before. Cranks over fast but doesn't catch.


This time in my driveway so I scanned it, still not codes. Hooked up the fuel pressure gauge and got nothing, 0psi.


Took a different car to the beach, came back, started instantly.


So both times this has happened its been around 85 degrees ambient, the car was up to operating temperature, shut off for ~15 minutes parked in full sun, and wouldn't restart (because it doesn't get fuel).


so it has to be in the fuel pump circuit, I'm guessing since its heat sensitive its a relay thing or the pump itself. Anyone have a wiring diagram. Can't wait for it to crawl under the car when its stupid hot out but that seems to be the only time I have this issue.

Tall Giraffe

I had a similar problem once. The car would die when I took too hard on corners or when it was 90 degrees and hotter, it would not start after running- even died at the light. Had to ruin the heat till it started. When the car cools down it usually started like normal.

CPS

Crank Position Sensor

Or maybe fuel pump?

Cant speak on your stuck key in the 2 position issue.

housew

all good ideas. Any idea on how to test the CPS?


I know for a fact I have 0 fuel pressure when its hot and its happening. So unless the fuel pump relay looks for a CPS signal before kicking on the pump, I would expect it to be in the pump control circuit.


I think the key in the crank position is just because it kicks out of position when the motor starts, its not starting so its not kicking out. It kicks out normally when the car starts normally. Maybe its a bigger issue than I think it is though.

housew

also, I have 60 psi of fuel pressure when the car starts normally. 0 psi when this is happening.

desired_speeds

it's the CPS. DO you hear it prime when you turn on the ignition? $35 from amazon and should be replaced as preventative maintenance at regular intervals.

Tall Giraffe

How often do you suggest? I last changed mine about 40K miles ago.