Door Lock problems 99 W210
#1
Door Lock problems 99 W210
I have a 99 E320 Sedan..the smart key cannot lock or unlock the doors open the trunk or filler door..the only thing it can do is the ignition to start the car.
When you click on the lock or unlock the lights flash and you hear a whrrr sound but that's it, . If you use the mechanical key in the drivers door, it will lock the drivers door only.
If you press on the central locking system button on the dash nothing happens, the door locks do not respond.
Have several issues here, don't know where to start to find the basic problem. Thanks for any help.
When you click on the lock or unlock the lights flash and you hear a whrrr sound but that's it, . If you use the mechanical key in the drivers door, it will lock the drivers door only.
If you press on the central locking system button on the dash nothing happens, the door locks do not respond.
Have several issues here, don't know where to start to find the basic problem. Thanks for any help.
#2
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the problem could be with the transmission/receiving of the Smartkey signal
which is done by radio frequency. I don't think this is the cause of the problem
as the pse pump beneath the rear seat is humming. this indicates that the
signal is being received and it is trying to activate the pneumatics to un/lock
the doors.
i would suggest trying to test the output ports on the PSE pump to see if it is
indeed generating the required air to cycle the locking mechanism. you can
try testing the line/hose manually using a baby aspirator bulb and see if the
door locks cycle.
i don't think that all of the lines leading to each door would have suffered a
leak all at once...which is why i'm thinking the pump may be going bad
but what I can't reconcile is why the driver's door lock cycles when the key is
inserted into the door and turned. in theory, it would (also) be sending a
signal to the PSE pump and instructing it to pump air into the lines to cycle
the door lock(s).
there should be diagrams showing the PSE port functions here
which is done by radio frequency. I don't think this is the cause of the problem
as the pse pump beneath the rear seat is humming. this indicates that the
signal is being received and it is trying to activate the pneumatics to un/lock
the doors.
i would suggest trying to test the output ports on the PSE pump to see if it is
indeed generating the required air to cycle the locking mechanism. you can
try testing the line/hose manually using a baby aspirator bulb and see if the
door locks cycle.
i don't think that all of the lines leading to each door would have suffered a
leak all at once...which is why i'm thinking the pump may be going bad
but what I can't reconcile is why the driver's door lock cycles when the key is
inserted into the door and turned. in theory, it would (also) be sending a
signal to the PSE pump and instructing it to pump air into the lines to cycle
the door lock(s).
there should be diagrams showing the PSE port functions here
#3
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
That sounds to me like the PSE pump wear out the blades.
Some members revived them by simple cleaning.
Some members revived them by simple cleaning.
#4
I took a look at the pump had the smart key with me and found out that if I manually lock the doors and exit the car, the door locks will open when I want to enter, it will not lock the doors from the inside by using the central lock switch that's located on the dash.
It will still not open the trunk, no matter what.
By the way I tried to disconnect the hoses to the pump, but couldn't do it. Is there a trick to that also..?
Thanks for your help.
I did find a used pump on Ebay.
It will still not open the trunk, no matter what.
By the way I tried to disconnect the hoses to the pump, but couldn't do it. Is there a trick to that also..?
Thanks for your help.
I did find a used pump on Ebay.
#6
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I never had to take such pump apart (although the one in wagon is showing codes and dynamic seat quit) but from other topics this is typical pump with blades sliding with centrifugal force.
Can't find the pictures on the net, but once you open the pump, you might find the blades glued with dirt and not pushing the air.
Can't find the pictures on the net, but once you open the pump, you might find the blades glued with dirt and not pushing the air.
#7
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Here is video. It focus on the motor, but you can see blades
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#9
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
We wish it would be so easy.
PSE pumps are married to the car.
You buy other - you have to get SD and spend some time on it.
Some owners when they had burn motor -did buy PSE pump and swapped motor/pump assembly only.
It is about the same job what cleaning the blades will take.
You still might do more testing to figure out what is bad thought
I think those pumps cost about $1500 new.
PSE pumps are married to the car.
You buy other - you have to get SD and spend some time on it.
Some owners when they had burn motor -did buy PSE pump and swapped motor/pump assembly only.
It is about the same job what cleaning the blades will take.
You still might do more testing to figure out what is bad thought
I think those pumps cost about $1500 new.