Kevin2672

I have checked the following:

(1) All sensors data seems to be correct.
(2) No error code can be found.
(3) At least 2 lb. refrigerant available in the system.
(4) Compressor and clutch up and running.

*Will a faulty relay switches can cause AC not cold??
Is there a difference between "AC Compressor Relay" and "A/C Clutch Relay" or they are the exact same thing?

** Where can I locate the relay(s) and where can I buy a new one?


Thanks so much for your time and advice!!

FP

Is your engine fan running?

Kevin2672

Yes, the engine/radiator cooling fan running just fine (single large fan)
but I don't see twin Auxiliary AC fans are running - assembly to the A/C Condenser (dual small fan?) I could be wrong. Thank you!!

kajtek1

How do you know you have 2lb in the system?
Do sensors #1-8 readout once in the morning before starting car, 2nd a minute after restarting car with hot cabin and post the numbers here.

Plutoe

Do us a huge favor and post the data fort he first 8 data lines!!

Kevin2672

Thank you All!!
I really appreciates your inputs!!!



First data from 4/22:

(1) = 67
(2) = 58
(3) = 82
(4) = 82
(5) = 64
(6) = 118
(7) = 04
(8) = 64


The most recent data are:

(1) = 91
(2) = 84
(3) = 98
(4) = 98
(5) = 93
(6) = 163 quickly jumped to 216
(7) = 08
(8) = 100


BTW, the r134a refrigerant was fully recharged by the repair shop then I had another mechanic from a different repair shop to double checked.

Kevin2672

I will follow-up with your instruction and post the latest data ASAP!!
Thank you!!

Plutoe

See my comments--------it is obvious from the data and your comments that your compressor is unable to make the appropriate pressure---buy a new compressor!!

FYI:google refrig pressure\temp relationship on earth!!

kajtek1

We need to know the circumstances to draw any conclusion.
Was the engine running in first readouts?
Now why the engine temp quickly jumped to 216 ?
Are you having engine overheating problem? That would kill AC

Plutoe

simply a smoke screen!!-----------run the data again!!

Kevin2672

*The latest sensors data - 4/29

(when engine is cold and not running)

(1) 80
(2) 57
(3) 73
(4) 73
(5) 69
(6) 66
(7) 03
(8) 60


(after engine up and running for about 10 minutes)

(1) 73
(2) 60
(3) 73
(4) 73
(5) 71
(6) 182
(7) 04
(8) 64


*I hate to spend another $700 to $900 to replace the compressor on a car that only worth about $4,000. (I already spend more than $2,000 on repair - this year alone) ouch!! I fixed one thing then another thing broke. If I knew I ended up spending $2,000 plus I would just sell the car!

fabbrisd1

You have lost refridgerant - whether thru a leak in the system - or a blown compressor.

A leak test with UV dye will show if compressor or leak.

If the compressor is shot - a remanufacturud replacement w/parts you need is under $200 to get back up and running:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-E30...5oROgw&vxp=mtr

However, the system will need to be evac'd and no leaks/hold-vacuum after compressor replacement to assure no other leaks.

Keep the beat !

Kevin2672

*The latest sensors data - 4/29

(when engine is cold and not running)

(1) 80
(2) 57
(3) 73
(4) 73
(5) 69
(6) 66
(7) 03
(8) 60


(after engine up and running for about 10 minutes)

(1) 73
(2) 60
(3) 73
(4) 73
(5) 71
(6) 182
(7) 04
(8) 64

kajtek1

Can you explain how on morning with 57F your cabin had 80F ?
You are definitely low on refrigerant and it seems even lower than first readout.
Add a can of R134 with dye and nothing else.

wasp01amg

The sun was shining.

kajtek1

Evidently you are not a morning person
Keep us posting how the new can of refrigerant works for you?
Good idea would be display pressure #7 when you drive on hot day and observe how it changes over the time.

Kevin2672

Thank you!

Yes, I bought one 18 OZ EZ Chill Auto Air Conditioning Refrigerant Plus Oil With Charging Hose & Gauge. Unfortunately, the pressure was in the RED zone which indicated there was no room to add any more R134a. I'm really confused now..

BTW, the highest number on # 7 is "8" since day one.

wasp01amg

Did you have the engine running and compressor on when you tried to add the refridgerant?

kajtek1

First I said R134, dye and nothing else. The conditioning can has sealers and lot of other garbage that can do more harm than good.
Than if you used can gauge, you have seen can pressure, not system pressure. With compressor running the car has to take the can of stuff.

Kevin2672

* I'm not give up yet!!



I just bought "R134a, R410a AC Manifold Gauge" from eBay so I can check both of my car A/C and my home A/C pressures myself at any time!!>http://www.ebay.com/itm/152077974475?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
YouTube video on how to check Automotive A/C Pressures >

I have also purchased "A/C PRO GBM-4 R-134a Air Conditioning Pro Heavy Duty Charging Hose and Gauge" from Amazon >

YouTube videos>




and Supco ST01 Stainless Steel Pocket Dial Thermometer 5" from eBay >
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151835518905?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT




Now I'm hoping all I need to do to fix my A/C problem is just to add some more refrigerant!!

Kevin2672

Forgot to attach the R134a temperature pressure chart...


Here>

kajtek1

I have 2 of those manifold and don't know why I keep 3 other gauges that over the years I bought with cans, but never used the gauges on W210.
You have precise high pressure display on dashboard. as well as 5 thermometers, so why bother with harder to operate stuff?

Kevin2672

"you have precise high pressure display on dashboard. as well as 5 thermometers, so why bother with harder to operate stuff? "


I'm sorry, I'm not sure what do you mean by that...., could you please elaborate further?

wasp01amg

You also need to purchase a vacuum pump. You need to pull a vacuum on the system before you introduce new refridgerant.

fabbrisd1

I guess the point(s) are these:

1) A vacuum test before refill evac's all the bad juju - and hold at vacuum identifies if your system can hold pressure - with no leaks or with minor leak - or if the system has major leak and won't hold pressure all all

2) A dye test identifies the source of the leak for repair

3) The after leak-repair - back to vacuum for evac and hold test before refill