Another EIS and Key question
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E320 4-matic wagon
Another EIS and Key question
Hi all,
So my key is acting up lately, doors lock/unlock fine, but sometimes takes several tries to get the EIS to unlock and let me start the car. I only have one key, so can't see if that's the problem. I have the spare "blade" key. Does that not communicate with the EIS? As in, will I be good to go just using the blade for ignition all the time if my key winds up failing me?
Basically, I'm ok with using the blade if that's good enough, rather than replacing the EIS which is too expensive for my blood.
Thanks in advance,
AJ
So my key is acting up lately, doors lock/unlock fine, but sometimes takes several tries to get the EIS to unlock and let me start the car. I only have one key, so can't see if that's the problem. I have the spare "blade" key. Does that not communicate with the EIS? As in, will I be good to go just using the blade for ignition all the time if my key winds up failing me?
Basically, I'm ok with using the blade if that's good enough, rather than replacing the EIS which is too expensive for my blood.
Thanks in advance,
AJ
#2
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your key is going out. i have my key that went out but could still lock, unlock the car. so if you can drive to dealer and order a new key before the key completely goes out and you have to tow it in.
#3
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
For the start don't confuse 3 different thing3.
The key or rather knob operates ignition with passive chip in its nose.
Doors are operated by remote that is located in bulb part of the key.
The blade key operates only mechanical locks on doors, trunk and glove compartment. IT WILL NOT OPERATE IGNITION.
You need to get new key ASAP. Then you can take the malfunctioning knob apart and check for bad solder on coil.
The key or rather knob operates ignition with passive chip in its nose.
Doors are operated by remote that is located in bulb part of the key.
The blade key operates only mechanical locks on doors, trunk and glove compartment. IT WILL NOT OPERATE IGNITION.
You need to get new key ASAP. Then you can take the malfunctioning knob apart and check for bad solder on coil.
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E320 4-matic wagon
For the start don't confuse 3 different thing3.
The key or rather knob operates ignition with passive chip in its nose.
Doors are operated by remote that is located in bulb part of the key.
The blade key operates only mechanical locks on doors, trunk and glove compartment. IT WILL NOT OPERATE IGNITION.
You need to get new key ASAP. Then you can take the malfunctioning knob apart and check for bad solder on coil.
The key or rather knob operates ignition with passive chip in its nose.
Doors are operated by remote that is located in bulb part of the key.
The blade key operates only mechanical locks on doors, trunk and glove compartment. IT WILL NOT OPERATE IGNITION.
You need to get new key ASAP. Then you can take the malfunctioning knob apart and check for bad solder on coil.
#6
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I think the non-remote key is called service key as it is useless with the valets.
So if you have that one working, you can open the door with blade and use service key for ignition.
Still if you don't repair the remote knob, you likely will get bored with the 2nd option and shave some cash for new key.
So if you have that one working, you can open the door with blade and use service key for ignition.
Still if you don't repair the remote knob, you likely will get bored with the 2nd option and shave some cash for new key.
#7
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It is just a spare key..with no buttons.. usually assigned to key rail 3. They look similar to the "green/blue/orange " key that is used to program a new EIS and to release transport protection.
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#8
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2003 e320 4-matic wagon, 1995 e320 Cabriolet, 1983 300D
I had the same problem. Tried buying a new key first. Worked but still had intermittent problem getting ignition. You can buy an EIC on ebay with a matching key, but M-B won't program it. So finally bit the bullet. $1,350 later starts every time. And to think I can go to my local NAPA store and buy an ignition switch for my Chevy truck and get change from a $50.
Oliver
1983 300D (second owner, 140k miles!)
1995 e320 Cabriolet
2003 e320 4matic wagon
Oliver
1983 300D (second owner, 140k miles!)
1995 e320 Cabriolet
2003 e320 4matic wagon
#9
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
There are cheaper ways to deal with ignition switches, but MBUSA keeps monopoly on official route and you have to pay the stealers.
Wait a minute. Did I just put auto thieves and MBUSA into the same reply?
#10
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within the past 2 weeks someone bought in a spare Smartkey and stole a high
end MB from the dealer and drove it off the lot. so easy and basic was their
ruse that I'm sure the dealers will be more cautious of this technique. i'm not
one who quibbles over the high cost of the Smartkey and I do have 2 spares.
end MB from the dealer and drove it off the lot. so easy and basic was their
ruse that I'm sure the dealers will be more cautious of this technique. i'm not
one who quibbles over the high cost of the Smartkey and I do have 2 spares.
#11
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[QUOTE=omoore3;6809291]
I had the same problem. Tried buying a new key first. Worked but still had intermittent problem getting ignition. You can buy an EIC on ebay with a matching key, but M-B won't program it"
It's not that MB won't program it. MB can't program it!
I had the same problem. Tried buying a new key first. Worked but still had intermittent problem getting ignition. You can buy an EIC on ebay with a matching key, but M-B won't program it"
It's not that MB won't program it. MB can't program it!
#12
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1998 E320 Wagon, 2003 W211 E500, 2003 W211 E500, 1999 W210 E55 AMG
Blade key won't lock trunk
Hi everyone. I recently purchased my '99 E55 which is a bullet.
However...
When the car is locked with the remote, the trunk won't open by depressing the lock on the deck lid as it should not.
When the car is locked, the trunk will open only with the remote. When the car is unlocked, the lock opens when pushed.
However, the key will not turn to position 4 (3 o'clock) in order to lock. I have 3 keys, all identically cut, and 3 remotes which all work.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
However...
When the car is locked with the remote, the trunk won't open by depressing the lock on the deck lid as it should not.
When the car is locked, the trunk will open only with the remote. When the car is unlocked, the lock opens when pushed.
However, the key will not turn to position 4 (3 o'clock) in order to lock. I have 3 keys, all identically cut, and 3 remotes which all work.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
#13
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the cylinder lock on the trunk is normally so rarely used that it would not surprise me if
it had atrophied a bit. are you using finger pressure or CAREFULLY using the aid of pliers?
try the pliers to give you added leverage but be careful not to turn too forcefully to position 4
when the trunk is open and you close the trunk lid with your hand, how much force are
you applying? it should be almost fingertip pressure. if it requires a firm slam, it is
possible that the trunk locking mechanism needs to be adjusted by loosening the 2 Torx
fasteners holding it against the trunk lid and sliding the whole unit up/down so that the
latch is activated with minimum force.
if you are closing it firmly, the trunk is too 'far away' from the strike plate (fastened to the
trunk floor). when it finally closes and latches, there is undue pressure on the latch which
may keep it from popping open when you press the lock cylinder
the fact that the trunk will open electronically indicates the PSE pump and the air hoses
are intact and it functions fine.
afterthought: you can try pressing in the trunk lock cylinder while a colleague presses down
on the trunk corner in several areas to see if, by unloading pressure on the latch, it will pop
open while you're depressing the lock.
it had atrophied a bit. are you using finger pressure or CAREFULLY using the aid of pliers?
try the pliers to give you added leverage but be careful not to turn too forcefully to position 4
when the trunk is open and you close the trunk lid with your hand, how much force are
you applying? it should be almost fingertip pressure. if it requires a firm slam, it is
possible that the trunk locking mechanism needs to be adjusted by loosening the 2 Torx
fasteners holding it against the trunk lid and sliding the whole unit up/down so that the
latch is activated with minimum force.
if you are closing it firmly, the trunk is too 'far away' from the strike plate (fastened to the
trunk floor). when it finally closes and latches, there is undue pressure on the latch which
may keep it from popping open when you press the lock cylinder
the fact that the trunk will open electronically indicates the PSE pump and the air hoses
are intact and it functions fine.
afterthought: you can try pressing in the trunk lock cylinder while a colleague presses down
on the trunk corner in several areas to see if, by unloading pressure on the latch, it will pop
open while you're depressing the lock.
Last edited by raymond g-; 03-26-2017 at 06:39 PM.
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Overheated (03-27-2017)
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Well... it is COMMON that the mechanical lock cylinder in the trunk corrodes up internally - and "freezes" ... you need to soak that lock cylinder in a penetrating lubricant/rust-breaker... let it sit overnight ...then use a key to put a bit of pressure on it.. DON'T break the key if nothing loosens up.....then spray/soak the cylinder again... let it sit overnite again....DON'T break the key... might take 4/5/6 sessions until it free's up..
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Overheated (03-28-2017)
#15
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1998 E320 Wagon, 2003 W211 E500, 2003 W211 E500, 1999 W210 E55 AMG
Well... it is COMMON that the mechanical lock cylinder in the trunk corrodes up internally - and "freezes" ... you need to soak that lock cylinder in a penetrating lubricant/rust-breaker... let it sit overnight ...then use a key to put a bit of pressure on it.. DON'T break the key if nothing loosens up.....then spray/soak the cylinder again... let it sit overnite again....DON'T break the key... might take 4/5/6 sessions until it free's up..
I sprayed it once, then I sprayed it again, then again, then let it soak. I inserted the key and little by little it turned to position #3 and locked. I'm going to work on it a bit and I'm sure the trunk lock will come back to life.
Thanks guys!
#16
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1998 E320 Wagon, 2003 W211 E500, 2003 W211 E500, 1999 W210 E55 AMG
Unfroze the mechanism with repeated flushes of WD40, then flushed the WD40 with multiple doses of WD40 Silicone lube. The lock she works like new.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!