BAS, ESP, etc
10-31-2016, 03:20 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
BAS, ESP, etc
About 2 years ago when I bought my E320 I had to replace the Brake Light Switch because of the dashboard lighting up. This was not a random thing. However now I am getting random and sporadic versions. They don't light up every time I drive and they always go out if I turn the car off and back on.
Has anyone experienced this or have an idea? Am I going to have to replace the BLS every 2 years?
Also, not sure if related, my radio (factory) will no longer come on when I start the car. I have to press the button to turn it on or off. On top of that, every so often it will no work at all. After a few times of driving it it will work again.
Has anyone experienced this or have an idea? Am I going to have to replace the BLS every 2 years?
Also, not sure if related, my radio (factory) will no longer come on when I start the car. I have to press the button to turn it on or off. On top of that, every so often it will no work at all. After a few times of driving it it will work again.
10-31-2016, 10:08 PM
#2
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To me - 1st thing to do is pull/clean battery cables/perminal including the ground. Always have KEY OUT during battery disconnect/reconnect. When battery disconnected - good time to pull/clean/brush all fuses. Battery out take for auto parts store load test. After fuses and cleaning cleaning - after reconnect - radio code needed - reset steering angle sensor - reset aux systems - follow your owner's manual for procedures - or download owners manual for W210 from mbusa web site in Owners Section.
ALWAYS clean connections/fuses - and load test battery BEFORE any voltage/charging analysis using Climate Control Read Out.
There are a LOT of glitchy gremlins come up - when (a) battery connections and/or ground corroded/old (b) fuses corroding (c) battery is starting to fail and/or (d) or a non-MB/knockoff brake light switch starts failing easily within 2 years for sure.
Cover this small stuff 1st BEFORE you let Blutoe get in your head..
ALWAYS clean connections/fuses - and load test battery BEFORE any voltage/charging analysis using Climate Control Read Out.
There are a LOT of glitchy gremlins come up - when (a) battery connections and/or ground corroded/old (b) fuses corroding (c) battery is starting to fail and/or (d) or a non-MB/knockoff brake light switch starts failing easily within 2 years for sure.
Cover this small stuff 1st BEFORE you let Blutoe get in your head..
The following 2 users liked this post by fabbrisd1:
R2dMax (11-01-2016),
shadenfroh (11-03-2016)
10-31-2016, 11:09 PM
#3
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
That sounds like voltage problem to me too.
How old are alternator brushes?
How old are alternator brushes?
The following users liked this post:
R2dMax (11-01-2016)
11-01-2016, 09:09 AM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
To me - 1st thing to do is pull/clean battery cables/perminal including the ground. Always have KEY OUT during battery disconnect/reconnect. When battery disconnected - good time to pull/clean/brush all fuses. Battery out take for auto parts store load test. After fuses and cleaning cleaning - after reconnect - radio code needed - reset steering angle sensor - reset aux systems - follow your owner's manual for procedures - or download owners manual for W210 from mbusa web site in Owners Section.
ALWAYS clean connections/fuses - and load test battery BEFORE any voltage/charging analysis using Climate Control Read Out.
There are a LOT of glitchy gremlins come up - when (a) battery connections and/or ground corroded/old (b) fuses corroding (c) battery is starting to fail and/or (d) or a non-MB/knockoff brake light switch starts failing easily within 2 years for sure.
Cover this small stuff 1st BEFORE you let Blutoe get in your head..
ALWAYS clean connections/fuses - and load test battery BEFORE any voltage/charging analysis using Climate Control Read Out.
There are a LOT of glitchy gremlins come up - when (a) battery connections and/or ground corroded/old (b) fuses corroding (c) battery is starting to fail and/or (d) or a non-MB/knockoff brake light switch starts failing easily within 2 years for sure.
Cover this small stuff 1st BEFORE you let Blutoe get in your head..
yet
. The way things have gone for me with this car, I'm sure its bad, going bad. Never hesitates to start though. But I see how the affected systems could be voltage related. Should I have the alternator tested then?
11-01-2016, 11:28 AM
#5
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Short brushes can act for pretty long time before they die permanently.
But if you have over 150k miles or drive with lights on a lot at lower mileage - you will need new brushes sooner than later.
You can also drive with car voltage on display to confirm what the real issue is.
But if you have over 150k miles or drive with lights on a lot at lower mileage - you will need new brushes sooner than later.
You can also drive with car voltage on display to confirm what the real issue is.
11-02-2016, 06:52 PM
#7
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Sensor #24 on climatronic.
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11-02-2016, 06:54 PM
#8
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