Interesting problem
11-04-2016, 11:24 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Interesting problem
2002 e320 4matic wagon, 65,000 miles.
When taking a substantial curve to the right at speed, and only to the right so far, all of the interior courtesy lights illuminate and then fade back out once the turn is completed. I have checked all the doors and rear hatch multiple times to make sure they are securely closed but nothing was/is open, All the door/body panels are flush. Anyone have any idea where to start looking?
Michael
When taking a substantial curve to the right at speed, and only to the right so far, all of the interior courtesy lights illuminate and then fade back out once the turn is completed. I have checked all the doors and rear hatch multiple times to make sure they are securely closed but nothing was/is open, All the door/body panels are flush. Anyone have any idea where to start looking?
Michael
11-04-2016, 12:12 PM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
normal and inexpensive problem. i'm going to guess it happens more with the driver's
side door (used more often). check under "Door lock, phantom un/locking"
it may cost you a penny (taped to the door jamb opposite door plunger switch), or about
$20 to have it replaced (by yourself). MB may charge $50
side door (used more often). check under "Door lock, phantom un/locking"
it may cost you a penny (taped to the door jamb opposite door plunger switch), or about
$20 to have it replaced (by yourself). MB may charge $50
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skedaddle (11-04-2016)
11-04-2016, 07:30 PM
#3
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Don't be cheap, us a nickel -you'll fill better
11-04-2016, 08:31 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ha Ha, Actually I really cheaped out. I moved the post in just a hair and will go for a drive tomorrow with Torx in hand and see if it is fixed.
11-05-2016, 01:02 AM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
well, that may work but you should understand that you're modifying a different
part which may be unrelated to the cause. it's not bad, but by moving in the
strike plate (that's the horse shoe bracket attached to the B pillar/door jamb,
you may be adjusting so that you'll have to slam the door harder to latch.
by shimming with a coin the door pin plunger is designed to have a little more
room to accommodate the temporary solution until you get a new door pin.
there is a bit of a symbiotic balancing act between the door latch and door
pin/switch.
at this point we're working on theories and won't know if it's even the door pin
until you try the various tricks.
part which may be unrelated to the cause. it's not bad, but by moving in the
strike plate (that's the horse shoe bracket attached to the B pillar/door jamb,
you may be adjusting so that you'll have to slam the door harder to latch.
by shimming with a coin the door pin plunger is designed to have a little more
room to accommodate the temporary solution until you get a new door pin.
there is a bit of a symbiotic balancing act between the door latch and door
pin/switch.
at this point we're working on theories and won't know if it's even the door pin
until you try the various tricks.
11-05-2016, 07:26 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Raymond, thank you for your input. I moved the strike plate about half the thickness of a penny in/tighter. And went for a drive today with gorilla tape and a penny and nickel along. Good news I think the movement of the strike plate on the drivers door by .03 inches/ .75mm, fixed the problem. Interior light stayed off for the whole drive. Thanks for pionting me to the threads.
Michael
Michael
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11-06-2016, 11:30 AM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Wish I could answer your question with clarity but honestly I am not sure. My feeling is that no the locks were not cycling, in fact I am pretty sure that they may not have been locking when the required speed was met.
If it would be valuable to know; I can put the strike plate back in its original position, it is marked with pencil as well as a strip if cellophane tape, so I could get it back exactly. Then I could go for a drive.
And just to be clear my door plunger is on the "b" post below the strike plate, unlike the picture that Kajtek1 posted above.
Michael
If it would be valuable to know; I can put the strike plate back in its original position, it is marked with pencil as well as a strip if cellophane tape, so I could get it back exactly. Then I could go for a drive.
And just to be clear my door plunger is on the "b" post below the strike plate, unlike the picture that Kajtek1 posted above.
Michael
Last edited by skedaddle; 11-06-2016 at 11:32 AM.
11-06-2016, 02:04 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well see now you have gotten a little bit ahead of me. I have been reading the owners manual that I downloaded when I have not been wrenching on the car. But my priority has been getting it ready for state inspection and fixing the things I know were wrong. I have not gotten to the fine details like the fact that you can even turn automatic central locking on/off. I made the assumption that it was always on. Unfortunately it looks like I can set the mode of operation but not necessarily tell what mode it is in without going for a drive, which will not happen till tomorrow. On a positive note I have figured out how to set the time on the Comand system as well as the dash clock... so progress is being made.
Michael
Michael
