2006 E350 squeaking noise when starting climate control
02-10-2014, 12:32 PM
#26
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
E 500 4matic, MINI John Cooper Works
cricket
Gentlemen - Thanks for the information - My 06 e 500 4matic has the same identical symptoms - With your information I'll take it to my neighborhood Euro independent. I've been blessed with a car with 80K with few issues.
Steve
Steve
02-10-2014, 12:56 PM
#27
Out Of Control!!
My wife has recently started noticing the fan squeak on low in our '07 E350.
Trying to decide if I want to put in a new fan, or just lube the original.
From the pictures it looks like a substantial motor, and I would hate to 1) Replace it with a lighter duty non-OEM fan, or 2) Pay for a new MB fan, if all it needs is a couple of droops of good bearing oil.
Guess, I will add that to the "List" to do when it get a little warmer. (That list is getting LONG!)
Trying to decide if I want to put in a new fan, or just lube the original.
From the pictures it looks like a substantial motor, and I would hate to 1) Replace it with a lighter duty non-OEM fan, or 2) Pay for a new MB fan, if all it needs is a couple of droops of good bearing oil.
Guess, I will add that to the "List" to do when it get a little warmer. (That list is getting LONG!)
04-06-2014, 07:20 PM
#28
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Longmeadow, MA
Posts: 12
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2008 E350 4matic
FYI, I was able to get a replacement on Amazon for $85.00. It should be here in a couple of days. I'll check in and let you all know how the quality is after I do the swap.
07-05-2015, 06:36 PM
#29
Member
Did the lube thing, removing the panels and the blower motor is straight forward enough. Lubed lower and upper area of motor took a couple of days for the lube to work it's way in. After I replaced the blower it still gave a little chirp after three days of running the blower it's no gone.
Will see how it goes if it return I'll just look to replace with a new one give they are relatively inexpensive and the replacement is not difficult.
Will see how it goes if it return I'll just look to replace with a new one give they are relatively inexpensive and the replacement is not difficult.
01-18-2016, 09:25 AM
#30
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2006 E55 AMG Wagon
I have found so much useful info on this bord, I decided to document this fairly simple repair in appreciation of all those who have gone before me.
This was documented on our 2003 E 320 with ANALOG controls
First, remove the front passenger floor mat and get something to cushion your knees. If over 40, go ahead and take some Aleve.
You will need a few tools (image 055)
I used a #25 torx bit to remove the panel (image 54) that is held by two machine screws. It is accessible directly beneath the glove box. There is a built in duct that directs air to your feet, care in removing it by flexing it slightly . It was somewhat difficult to re- install. Note that the cover square duct goes OVER (outside) of the dampered portion of the heater duct. There is one friction plug as well as the two screws. There is a plug that powers the lamp, pinch and tug gently to disconnect.
Now we have exposed the bottom of the fan compartment (image 053)
There are 4 torx screws that need a #20 bit. Three are deep in plastic wells and are not visible. You must feel for the bit to engage and turn them cw.
The one in the rear that is surface visible required a short shank #20 torx bit and a 1/4 in drive because of clearance to the floorboard. These are a ***** to put back. You need either a magnetic tip or a telescoping sleeve used with battery drills to support the screw while you bullseye it blindly in the recessed hole. Scotch tape did not work for me.
You should be able to "crack" the bottom cover Slide it carefully along the wire and expose the plug on the bottom of the speed controller. Pinch it hard and gently tug. The fan is now free of encumberances save the 4 screws.
There are 4 each #20 torx screws that hold the fan inside of the scroll cage.
Support the fan with your hand or a short stick and remove all four screws.
Your fan should look like image 046.
Image 038 shows empty scroll cage after fan is removed.
Remove the fan speed controller (two #20 torx) and fan power plug (same drill, pinch and tug gently)
Your old fan should now look like image 043.
Now reattch the controller to the new unit. Should look like image 046 again.
Insert the fan/ controller back into the void scroll cage.
You must hold the fan with one hand and insert at least two screws hand tight before allowing it to hang. Install the two remaining screws and tighten all. Attch plug back into controller
Reinstall the fan compartment cover with the three deep well screws and one surface mount- image 053. Reinstall wire in two plastic looms
Reinstall large knee cover with two machine screws #25 torx and make sure the duct is engaged. Screws won't align unless it is correct.
Test motor. Annoying squeak is gone for a few more years.
This was documented on our 2003 E 320 with ANALOG controls
First, remove the front passenger floor mat and get something to cushion your knees. If over 40, go ahead and take some Aleve.
You will need a few tools (image 055)
I used a #25 torx bit to remove the panel (image 54) that is held by two machine screws. It is accessible directly beneath the glove box. There is a built in duct that directs air to your feet, care in removing it by flexing it slightly . It was somewhat difficult to re- install. Note that the cover square duct goes OVER (outside) of the dampered portion of the heater duct. There is one friction plug as well as the two screws. There is a plug that powers the lamp, pinch and tug gently to disconnect.
Now we have exposed the bottom of the fan compartment (image 053)
There are 4 torx screws that need a #20 bit. Three are deep in plastic wells and are not visible. You must feel for the bit to engage and turn them cw.
The one in the rear that is surface visible required a short shank #20 torx bit and a 1/4 in drive because of clearance to the floorboard. These are a ***** to put back. You need either a magnetic tip or a telescoping sleeve used with battery drills to support the screw while you bullseye it blindly in the recessed hole. Scotch tape did not work for me.
You should be able to "crack" the bottom cover Slide it carefully along the wire and expose the plug on the bottom of the speed controller. Pinch it hard and gently tug. The fan is now free of encumberances save the 4 screws.
There are 4 each #20 torx screws that hold the fan inside of the scroll cage.
Support the fan with your hand or a short stick and remove all four screws.
Your fan should look like image 046.
Image 038 shows empty scroll cage after fan is removed.
Remove the fan speed controller (two #20 torx) and fan power plug (same drill, pinch and tug gently)
Your old fan should now look like image 043.
Now reattch the controller to the new unit. Should look like image 046 again.
Insert the fan/ controller back into the void scroll cage.
You must hold the fan with one hand and insert at least two screws hand tight before allowing it to hang. Install the two remaining screws and tighten all. Attch plug back into controller
Reinstall the fan compartment cover with the three deep well screws and one surface mount- image 053. Reinstall wire in two plastic looms
Reinstall large knee cover with two machine screws #25 torx and make sure the duct is engaged. Screws won't align unless it is correct.
Test motor. Annoying squeak is gone for a few more years.
