Did Diff Oil Change
06-04-2010, 10:56 PM
#26
to extract the "greasy clumpy" stuff in your diff, here is what we do.
support the rear wheels off the ground using jack stands
drain as much as you can of the diff fluid
refill diff with GUNK motor flush. This will cost about $4
start the engine and put in D. allow the motor to idle in D which should spin the tires. you want to just let the engine idle. both rear tires should be spinning at a speed of around 10 mph.
to clean spider gears, I stop one of my rear tires by hand and allow the opposite rear tire to continue to spin. CAUTION - this is not possible if you have a posi-traction installed. I go back and forth stopping each rear tire so that spider gears get a good flush.
after 5 minutes, stop the engine and drain GUNK engine flush. fill with inexpensive gear oil. this gear oil will only be used for final flushing.
repeat the procedure of spinning the rear tires for a few minutes
drain again, refil with 85w-90 sold by Mercedes dealer. I do not recommend using another brand.
good luck!
support the rear wheels off the ground using jack stands
drain as much as you can of the diff fluid
refill diff with GUNK motor flush. This will cost about $4
start the engine and put in D. allow the motor to idle in D which should spin the tires. you want to just let the engine idle. both rear tires should be spinning at a speed of around 10 mph.
to clean spider gears, I stop one of my rear tires by hand and allow the opposite rear tire to continue to spin. CAUTION - this is not possible if you have a posi-traction installed. I go back and forth stopping each rear tire so that spider gears get a good flush.
after 5 minutes, stop the engine and drain GUNK engine flush. fill with inexpensive gear oil. this gear oil will only be used for final flushing.
repeat the procedure of spinning the rear tires for a few minutes
drain again, refil with 85w-90 sold by Mercedes dealer. I do not recommend using another brand.
good luck!
06-05-2010, 08:27 AM
#27
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03 E500 and Corvette
to extract the "greasy clumpy" stuff in your diff, here is what we do.
support the rear wheels off the ground using jack stands
drain as much as you can of the diff fluid
refill diff with GUNK motor flush. This will cost about $4
start the engine and put in D. allow the motor to idle in D which should spin the tires. you want to just let the engine idle. both rear tires should be spinning at a speed of around 10 mph.
to clean spider gears, I stop one of my rear tires by hand and allow the opposite rear tire to continue to spin. CAUTION - this is not possible if you have a posi-traction installed. I go back and forth stopping each rear tire so that spider gears get a good flush.
after 5 minutes, stop the engine and drain GUNK engine flush. fill with inexpensive gear oil. this gear oil will only be used for final flushing.
repeat the procedure of spinning the rear tires for a few minutes
drain again, refil with 85w-90 sold by Mercedes dealer. I do not recommend using another brand.
good luck!
support the rear wheels off the ground using jack stands
drain as much as you can of the diff fluid
refill diff with GUNK motor flush. This will cost about $4
start the engine and put in D. allow the motor to idle in D which should spin the tires. you want to just let the engine idle. both rear tires should be spinning at a speed of around 10 mph.
to clean spider gears, I stop one of my rear tires by hand and allow the opposite rear tire to continue to spin. CAUTION - this is not possible if you have a posi-traction installed. I go back and forth stopping each rear tire so that spider gears get a good flush.
after 5 minutes, stop the engine and drain GUNK engine flush. fill with inexpensive gear oil. this gear oil will only be used for final flushing.
repeat the procedure of spinning the rear tires for a few minutes
drain again, refil with 85w-90 sold by Mercedes dealer. I do not recommend using another brand.
good luck!
That is why I recommend to anyone if you open the diff, don't touch anything. The more you touch the more you contaminate. This method of flush will not open the diff and therefore contamination is minimal. Clearances in the pinion and ring gear bearings are preloaded for a zero clearance when heated up. This means ANY contamination that passes through will damage bearings. Gears are tougher, but the bearings will be damaged with contamination.
All this discussion on other oils. Why not just use MB approved 1st and be finished. I used full synthetic 85/140 in my Lincoln several years ago. I pulled a 2000 # trailer with it. There was no issue with the diff before change. After about 35,000 miles the surface hardening was worn off the ring gear to the porus metal underneath with failure to soon occur.
I learned my lesson and this is why I recommend if you are changing MB fluids use ONLY approved fluids. There may be other fluids that will work but unless you are a lub. engineer and understand all the testing that goes into lubrication I would keep it simple.
06-05-2010, 11:02 AM
#28
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His mama. Traded y0 mama in because she was squeaking.
You'll pardon me if I don't take your advice, based on your... extensive experience, mmk? LOL
Uh-huh. And the Belgians make the best of everything then?
Most all gear oils are Hypoid oils.
hypoid |ˈhīˌpoid| (also hypoid gear)
noun
a bevel wheel with teeth engaging with a spiral pinion mounted at right angles to the wheel's axis, used to connect nonintersecting shafts in vehicle transmissions and other mechanisms.
And you listen to "them"?
Glad you got everything worked out in the end. Next time, I suggest (and I can reliably do so because I change gear oils in all my vehicles every 20K miles - I know, a little overkill), that you look in the owner's manual. There, in black on white, it will tell you what oil viscosities you will need.
thisstuff is made in Belgium,
hypoil something & is better than putting in 75w-90
hypoid |ˈhīˌpoid| (also hypoid gear)
noun
a bevel wheel with teeth engaging with a spiral pinion mounted at right angles to the wheel's axis, used to connect nonintersecting shafts in vehicle transmissions and other mechanisms.
- they say its a one time change so cost shouldn't be a factor (I paid $62 for 2 litres)
Glad you got everything worked out in the end. Next time, I suggest (and I can reliably do so because I change gear oils in all my vehicles every 20K miles - I know, a little overkill), that you look in the owner's manual. There, in black on white, it will tell you what oil viscosities you will need.
06-06-2010, 03:34 AM
#29
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2003 Mercedes E320
06-07-2010, 10:51 AM
#30
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2006 E-350
06-08-2011, 04:50 PM
#31
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S6 LP640 E500
This is new to me so please take an easy on my question. After you drain the old oil how do you position the bottle to fill the diff. as I assume the bottle needs to be elevated from the fill hole?
06-08-2011, 04:59 PM
#32
Nope. It sits on the floor. That's why you buy the little pump. They're $6-10.
06-18-2011, 10:20 AM
#35
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2006 E320CDI
to extract the "greasy clumpy" stuff in your diff, here is what we do.
support the rear wheels off the ground using jack stands
drain as much as you can of the diff fluid
refill diff with GUNK motor flush. This will cost about $4
start the engine and put in D. allow the motor to idle in D which should spin the tires. you want to just let the engine idle. both rear tires should be spinning at a speed of around 10 mph.
to clean spider gears, I stop one of my rear tires by hand and allow the opposite rear tire to continue to spin. CAUTION - this is not possible if you have a posi-traction installed. I go back and forth stopping each rear tire so that spider gears get a good flush.
after 5 minutes, stop the engine and drain GUNK engine flush. fill with inexpensive gear oil. this gear oil will only be used for final flushing.
repeat the procedure of spinning the rear tires for a few minutes
drain again, refil with 85w-90 sold by Mercedes dealer. I do not recommend using another brand.
good luck!
support the rear wheels off the ground using jack stands
drain as much as you can of the diff fluid
refill diff with GUNK motor flush. This will cost about $4
start the engine and put in D. allow the motor to idle in D which should spin the tires. you want to just let the engine idle. both rear tires should be spinning at a speed of around 10 mph.
to clean spider gears, I stop one of my rear tires by hand and allow the opposite rear tire to continue to spin. CAUTION - this is not possible if you have a posi-traction installed. I go back and forth stopping each rear tire so that spider gears get a good flush.
after 5 minutes, stop the engine and drain GUNK engine flush. fill with inexpensive gear oil. this gear oil will only be used for final flushing.
repeat the procedure of spinning the rear tires for a few minutes
drain again, refil with 85w-90 sold by Mercedes dealer. I do not recommend using another brand.
good luck!
06-23-2011, 08:43 AM
#36
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E220
W211 PINION BEARING
HI LOOKING FOR PART NUMNER FOR PINION BEARING FOR E220 W211 2005
HAVE NUMBER OFF BEARING NTN ECO- CR- 05A75.1. AS DEALER ONLY SELL COMPLETE DIFF.IS THERE ANOTHER PART THAT WILL WORK. THANK YOU
HAVE NUMBER OFF BEARING NTN ECO- CR- 05A75.1. AS DEALER ONLY SELL COMPLETE DIFF.IS THERE ANOTHER PART THAT WILL WORK. THANK YOU
05-31-2013, 10:27 PM
#37
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2008 E320 Bluetec
don't be stupid!
in reading this post, I'm seeing a few people trying to second guess the oil viscosity, use cheap fluids or make elementary mistakes. This is a DIY forum...you're already saving tons of money by doing the work yourself and learning about basic mechanics. Don't second guess the manufacturer - use the correct viscosity oil and work from a know procedure that is documented. You can go around in circles asking for ideas for people that have a wide range of skills. An excellent web site is http://www.alldatadiy.com ...cost a few dollars for a subscription but well worth it. the web site list procedures, torque specs, recall information, maintenance procedures, illustrations, etc...tons of stuff.
06-01-2013, 07:39 AM
#38
Out Of Control!!
That's an open forum----it's about subscribers/advertisers and money. There is one group that should be renamed "The Wrench of Fortune"----extremely entertaining!!
06-01-2013, 12:45 PM
#39
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03 E500 and Corvette
in reading this post, I'm seeing a few people trying to second guess the oil viscosity, use cheap fluids or make elementary mistakes. This is a DIY forum...you're already saving tons of money by doing the work yourself and learning about basic mechanics. Don't second guess the manufacturer - use the correct viscosity oil and work from a know procedure that is documented. You can go around in circles asking for ideas for people that have a wide range of skills. An excellent web site is http://www.alldatadiy.com ...cost a few dollars for a subscription but well worth it. the web site list procedures, torque specs, recall information, maintenance procedures, illustrations, etc...tons of stuff.
