007_e350

It took me about 4 hours (that includes the liquid transfer pump going bad after drain :@@@ - walk to Kmart & back) - Still analyzing the car but the initial signs are slightly better low rpm feel (as in smoothness, maybe torque ..)

My car hit 50k, the oil I took out was greyish black replaced it with honey colored 75w-140 Mobil 1 ...

For those who wanna try this, There's only 1 plug on the differential (towards driver side), use 14mm Hex rachet to unscrew, put it the suction pump (I used handpump for oil transfer avail at Kmart or autozone for $10), and suck the oil out - I measured it around 1 Qrt - Take the tube out, clean it now suck from the Mobil 1 bottle into the diff - Keep pumping till it reaches just starts to drip - Tighten, lower the car & observe for leaks

edwinwalke

I have changed Differential oil a few Mercedes Benz over the years and everyone had a drain plug and a fill hole. I just did my 06 E320 CDI and the drain in on the right side and the fill in on the left. Both are 14mm.

Did you check what gear oil your car should have? I think most MB use the 85W90 gear oil.

I expect that the 75W140 may work ok but could affect your mileage as it is a bit heavy compared to what they recommend.

walter34payton2

I don't want to get greedy here, but do you have any pics or are you able to get any? Also, what is the brand and model of the pump you used? I am going to give this a shot on my 06 e350.

mcleantmw

What's the mileage interval recommended for changing the Differential oil? I didn't see it listed as a service item on the MB spec sheet for maintenance. Also, the 4-Matic models would probably be different than the regular two wheel drive models like mine.

007_e350

So I called MB of Naperville: They said they sell 85w-90 & washers for 2 filler holes. Then I called MB of Westmont: They confirmed to use 75w-140 (I repeatedly asked if thts for E & not ML) & said there was only 1 filler hole with no washer required.
Also, I measured the quantity extracted & poured in exactly the same (1.1 Qrts) so it wont matter where it got poured in from (though I didnt look at the other side)
Also, after a few thousand miles when oil loses some viscosity, 140 would probably still offer better protection than 90

007_e350

This is the pump I used (not the best one out there but works..) http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kti72250.html

I didn't take pics, could hardly breath under the car... but its pretty cut n dry - just lay under the differential and u cant miss a 14mm female Hex nut towards the driver side (make sure you have the Hex attachment for the rachet, I had to replace mine with a thinner elongated one coz axle/CV boot's end wont leave enough room for the Rachet to sit .. u'll know what I'm talking abt

SZMB

My 2004 E500 has both the 14mm drain and refill plugs. I changed the fluid at 65k mi; took about an hour. The old fluid was pretty nasty -- grey with lots of metal shavings. There was a layer of metal shaving deposited on the drain plug. The old fluid was fairly "watery", not like the thick fresh gear oil. I used the synthetic Redline 75/90 gear oil.

007_e350

WOULD 75w-140 HURT MY DIFF ? :@@@

SZMB

The 75/140 should be good for your car, but not for limited slip differentials. The 75/90 from Redline is good for both conventional and limited slip differentials.

007_e350

After observing for about a week now, I think I've lost about 2 mpgs (fuel consumption INCREASED) .... I'm seeing numbers like 13.9 in the city running/ Never did I see those ever..

Should I change to 85w-90 ? Is there an oil that meets MB specs ?

SZMB

I've been using Redline products a few yrs now: engine, transmission and differential oils. So far so good. The company has been around for a long time, and it's popular w/ the pros. Redline 75/90 synthetic sells for about $12/qtr, which i've been using in BMWs and MBs quite a few times.

007_e350

Guys, I'm in deep **** now...

So I went to MB and bought their diff fluid ($31/ Qrt). Came home and wanted to suck out 75w-140 I have in there --- The damn thing wont come out, it is so THICK literally like greasy - I know coz I spilled
Now the handpump is gone again but I have taken out only 400 mL - I had put in about 1100 mL - --- - So now I'm considering opening the diff & draining the whole thing, maye wipe gears with papertowel or spray Brake Cleaner (thats what a guy does in youtube..) --- put RTV around, let it sit for an hour and then pour in new one

The adv, I will avoid mixing of the two fluids, 140 is just not for this car...

Any advises on this ? I know its gonna be a pain with all the exhaust pipes under it.. How should I clean the gears ? Also, how can I avoid dust - my garage's not dust-proof..

vettdvr

IF... you decided to open up the diff I recommend the following.

1) Don't wipe anything or spray anything into the diff assembly.
2) Allow all the fluid to drain.
3) Clean the cover plate and mating flange hospital clean. I use carb cleaner to clean the surface then polish off with 600 grid wet dry paper just to clean and shine it up a bit.
4) After 3 flush with carb cleaner the mating surfaces again to remove ALL oil.
5) I use only the black silicon gasket material made exclusively for gaskets.
6) I apply the material and spread it around the cover holes and then immediately install.

(I know some say wait until skim over but this is for a differential and I want NO leaks).
7) Install the cover, torque the bolts exactly as the manual in the pattern to get even pressure.
8) WAIT 24 hrs for the gasket material to set up.
9) Add lube and seal the filler up.
10) Check for leaks
11) Test drive about 20 miles and let it sit overnight. Check for leaks.
12) If no leaks in 11 then drive it for a day and check for leaks.
13) If you get 200 miles no leaks then you are ok.

This works for me on my big diesel trucks and will work on a MB also.

I can't cover how clean the parts must be to seal. ANY oil will prevent a good seal so it must be really clean.

Best of luck on your decision. If you need the spec of the material I use let me know and I will look it up for you.

Boulder GT3

I've spent too much time changing gear oil. I can smell that nasty 75w140 you spilled. When you get it too hot it's really nasty. Good luck.

edwinwalke

You are asking for trouble opening the cover on the differential. You run the risk of it leaking after and it really in totally unnecessary. Just put some cheap 80W90 in the thing and drive it until it is good and hot and then drain and replace with the fluid you got from the dealer. Spraying anything in the differential is bad and again unnecessary.I assume what you got from the dealer for $31 is the MB branded 85W90. That is the MB approved specification 235.7 hypoid gear oil that should be in the E-Class differentials. Should say on the container it meets this spec.

SZMB

007_E350, are you sure there's no drain plug on the 2006 E350 differential? It just seems odd to me. I've never seen a differential without a drain plug. Well, maybe you can try warm up the differential oil by driving it a couple blocks and then trying to suck out the 140 fluid.

edwinwalke

The drain plug is on the right side (as you are facing the front of the car) close to the front of the differential. It is the same size as the fill plug. I just changed the fluid on my 06 E320 CDI and I have done the same on many other Mercedes Benz and I have always found a fill and drain plug. Another pointer -- make sure you can get the fill plug open before you open the drain plug in the event is is seized leaving you with no way to fill the differential.

Boulder GT3

All the time on American stuff.

crazypotato

75w-90 should be used. 75w-140 is a thicker fluid. It might expand more and break some thing (seals?). I have no expert here. I got 2 bottles of Mobile 1 75W90 for $18 total. I will change it soon.

007_e350

you were right edwinwalke - thanks, saved me a ton of work
screw the stealer. gave all wrong info (140 oil visc, 1 fill/drain plug..)

i tightened the plugs half a turn after the they tightened up - any one has the torques ?

007_e350

I would advise you to use 85w-90 sold by Mercedes, thisstuff is made in Belgium, hypoil something & is better than putting in 75w-90 - they say its a one time change so cost shouldn't be a factor (I paid $62 for 2 litres)

edwinwalke

I looked for the torque values and could not find them in Star Service CD. Since they are a fill/drain plug I would leave them where you have them and check after a few thousand miles to see if there is any leaking.

I put the same oil in mine. You can buy these type of things a bit cheaper from many dealers that sell parts online. I paid $23 per liter plus $9 shipping. You can get OEM brake pads for about $70 dollars. I thing the MSRP is $90

Here is a URL for one of many.

http://www.trademotion.com/splash/in...?siteid=214660

Glad to hear it worked out OK.

DanG2

The torque values are in the CD, 50 Nm for both plugs, fill and drain. You just have to be lucky enough to find the right place: the path is Repair and Maintenance-Chassis and Drivetrain/35-Rear Axle/00-General/Tightening Torques-Rear Axle/Rear Axle Differential Housing/ and then Oil Filler Screw and Drain Screw.

BenMarar

I just put RP 75w140 in my 2003 E 320 will see how it works

crazypotato

TOO THICK!! Run a risk to blow out the seals