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Old 12-26-2009, 01:36 AM   #1
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2004 E320 Jerking at low speeds

I have E320 2004 Model, I am noticing for couple of months that the car is throttling and jerking at low speeds especially when it is going down hill or uphill, somebody told me to replace the transmission fluid, it helped but still is jerking, any help in understanding the problem or any guidance in solving the same is highly appreciated.
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Old 12-26-2009, 07:09 AM   #2
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Check for coolant in the transmission. Granted yours is after the radiator issue date problem but it is worth checking.
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Old 12-26-2009, 09:34 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eusnaur View Post
I have E320 2004 Model, I am noticing for couple of months that the car is throttling and jerking at low speeds especially when it is going down hill or uphill, somebody told me to replace the transmission fluid, it helped but still is jerking, any help in understanding the problem or any guidance in solving the same is highly appreciated.
There are several TSBs issued by MB on these transmissions. As vettdvr indicated, it could be coolant entering your transmission from a break in the integrated radiator that cools both the engine and the transmission. This issue affected mostly the 2003 models but some 2004 builds could also be affected. If you'll PM your email address to me, I'll send you the MB TSB for the problem of coolant contaminating the torque converter and transmission.
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Old 12-26-2009, 10:45 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by eusnaur View Post
I have E320 2004 Model, I am noticing for couple of months that the car is throttling and jerking at low speeds especially when it is going down hill or uphill,
Is it jerking or rough shifting between 1st and 2nd gear? If so, do a search on this forum and you'll find a few postings about this problem. My 2004 E500 had this problem. The dealer replaced the valve body in the transmission, filter & tranny fluid. Problem solved. It's an expensive repair, but covered under warranty when I first reported this problem before warranty expired.
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Old 12-26-2009, 11:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SZMB View Post
Is it jerking or rough shifting between 1st and 2nd gear? If so, do a search on this forum and you'll find a few postings about this problem. My 2004 E500 had this problem. The dealer replaced the valve body in the transmission, filter & tranny fluid. Problem solved. It's an expensive repair, but covered under warranty when I first reported this problem before warranty expired.
It's not the shift, it's the jerking in gear. I changed a lot on my tranny: Valve gear/body, Trans Control Unit, and flushed it. I had the vibration on light load and the flush only helped (no glycol) - old oil must have contaminatd the lock up in the converter?? I still have the jerking however. I'm convinced it's the torque converter, but i'm not surprised that it could be the clutch packs. I've been trying to do alot of research on my tranny, and i keep hearing about the clutch packs - and it would make sense as the jerking feels like when driving a stick and letting go of the clutch too fast.
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Old 12-26-2009, 04:45 PM   #6
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Thank you for all for the insight on this issue, I believe i need a visit to the dealer with the TSBs in hand!
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Old 12-26-2009, 07:12 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by eusnaur View Post
Thank you for all for the insight on this issue, I believe i need a visit to the dealer with the TSBs in hand!
Even though my car was a 02/04 build, it had glycol contamination, just fiy
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:53 PM   #8
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Does it happen when you drive your card on "S" sports? or it also happen on "C" confortable. It should be only happening on "S" since it shifts gears as if you will be driving it on higher speed in sports mode. For slow driving put it on "C" and it will ride fine with no jerking and smooth gear shifting.
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:16 PM   #9
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I think you have a vacuum leak somewhere from either a hose or a idle control sensor. Let us know how you go though
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:29 PM   #10
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was it resolved?

Hello, I know this is an old post but I'm wondering if eusnaur's issue was resolved. Because I'm having the same issue with my 05 e320 wagon. at low gears it does the jerky movement. if I hit the gas hard then I don't feel the jerky movement.
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Old 05-14-2012, 05:41 PM   #11
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Any one still having problems?

I just had my transmission fluid changed, and a mount replaced. I've had no problems with the car before, but it does lug at low speeds now-not quite hunting for gears, but seems like it slips out....hate the feeling, especially when I just had it checked at MB!


2003 E320 65000 miles
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:13 PM   #12
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Where did you have your fluid changed?
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:19 PM   #13
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lugging at low speed update

I had the fluid changed at a shop I've used for about 5 years-MB certified mechanics, never had a problem before with them. They didn't find the tranny mount though, that was found at the dealer, where I went to have my brake assist replaced ( under a "recall" ). I was surprised to find out that they charged $350 fro the fluid change, about what the shop charged me!
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:10 PM   #14
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Couple of things I recently found through a search since I wanna try to fix mine. I have the same problem even after a brand new transmission was put in at 56K miles. Car has 104K miles now. Thing is idk if they did change the torque converter along with the transmission (maybe they used the old one ) so maybe these would help me out:

Symptoms I have (that I can remember off the top of my head):
1)jerking/shuddering at low speeds (2 to 5 mph in parking lots)
2)after up-shift into 3rd, some jerking at low rpm (around 2200 and below)
3)from standstill when I step on the gas hard, i get a sort of jolt/hesitation as if loss of power for split second (noticed mostly when making right turn from light or stop sign)
4)feel like the car is being held back when accelerating (happens on downhills too, kind of like engine is braking for me)

Quote:
Originally Posted by wschubbe View Post
I purchased a 2006 W211.026 with the 722.6 NAG1 transmission with this same problem. I fixed it by replacing the Torque Converter Control Solenoid, part number A 140 277 04 35 $63. The solenoid is located on the top side of the valve body, you must remove the entire valve body to get to it. The repair sounds intimidating, but it is really not bad at all. IMPORTANT: Reference this YouTube video and it will show you how the entire valve body/electronics unit from the transmission in short order. Without it, you will probably break something (the plastic plug). Once the assembly is off the vehicle, it is just a matter of one T30 torx screw that holds it in its socket. Pull the solenoid straight up and plug the new one in and reassemble. Total time 1.5 hours, the second one you do would only be 30-45 minutes. It is that simple, glad I did it. The transmissions is very smooth, no more tugging.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c7pDR83d_E
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06e320cdi View Post
The 5 speed 722.6 transmission has been around since 1997 in the EClass. I had basically the same transmission in my 1997 E300D. Its a clunky transmission, some more than others. My 1997 E300D had 306000 miles when I sold it and my 2006 E320 CDI acts similiar when cold. I have had mine in to 3 different dealer at least 4 times to check on my complaints. They all say its the nature of that transmission. I find it hard to believe that they havent improved the cold shifting since the transmission was developed. That being said there are a couple of things to check. Make sure the O ring is not leaking at the electrical connector. Doesnt have to leak much, just wet enough to mess with the contacts, and make sure the fluid level is clean, and the transmission has been serviced. Other than that, without it throwing any codes IE RPM out of range, there is nothing MB will do. If you google mercedes 722.6 you will see the same transmission is used in Sprinter vans and Chrysler Crossfires and there are similiar complaints.
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Last edited by gaazmon; 06-29-2012 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:22 PM   #15
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old '97 did the same thing

Looking at your post, it reminded me of my 97 E320 that had 295,000 on the clock before I sold it, never had the transmission fluid changed (at that time, I was told it was "lifetime!) an I remembered in the first 200,00 it had the same symptoms. It "held on" to the previous gear going into second, causing a jerking motion when it shifted. The transmission held out though-no other problems! Here's an odd one though; I have a round-a-bout in my neighborhood. My 03 E320 lugs when I enter from the 6 o'clock position, go left and exit at the 12... but not when I enter at the 12 and go left to the 6!
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:50 AM   #16
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Although this might sound completely unrelated but check your Air MAF sensor. The problems you're describing sounds pretty close to what I experienced several years ago with my CLK55 AMG. My .2 cents
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Old 07-01-2012, 10:46 AM   #17
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RE: transmission jerking..

thanks Marty, I'll try that-can I test it or is it a "replace" part?
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:26 PM   #18
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thanks Marty, I'll try that-can I test it or is it a "replace" part?
Matt,

Take a look at this link and read on...

Use it as a reference or starting point and continue to ask questions. Provide updates as your situation changes that way anyone on the forum can chime in with better or more suggestions. Good luck!

4 Common Parts That Cause Car To Idle Rough, Stall or Die
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:54 PM   #19
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How to remove the MAF and clean it.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTYMAR View Post
Matt,

Take a look at this link and read on...

Use it as a reference or starting point and continue to ask questions. Provide updates as your situation changes that way anyone on the forum can chime in with better or more suggestions. Good luck!

4 Common Parts That Cause Car To Idle Rough, Stall or Die

It will cost about $200 or so for a new one, if you decide that's what you are going to do....

DIY: MAF Mass Airflow Sensor removal and cleaning 2004 E320
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:54 AM   #20
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2004 E500 4Matic, with 115,000 miles I had the rumble/shaking when the car changed gears, more so at low speeds. I had the transmission fluid changed and it was perfect. Now with 195,000 miles car has the same symptoms. My mechanic is telling me the torque converter needs to be rebuilt. I am thinking I should just change the fluid again, but wondering if it was the torque converter all along and changing the fluid simply eased the symptoms because the fluid should still be fine. The post by wschubbe on the solenoid makes a lot of sense. I am thinking I might give that a try.
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:19 AM   #21
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Not sure if i'm reading you right, but you didnt change the fluid for another 80,000 miles (from 115 to 195)? It's required every 40,000 with filter. If that's true, i would try that first and see if it works...

Depending on how long it's been shuttering, I agree with your mechnic, but i wouldnt get a rebuilt one. I had the exact same issue and solution as you on my e500, same mileage as you exactly too. I'm at 193 now. I dont hear shuttering anymore after 40,000 mile fluid and filter changes.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:16 PM   #22
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Transmission problems and solutions E500, 2003

OK.

I know there is a lot of info on the transmission / glycol contamination issue.

Not to over simplify, but why not just add an external passive air/fluid tranny cooler to isolate the tranny fluid form the radiator and the possibility of leaks in the tranny cooler in the bottom tank of the radiator.

Lastly, can anyone supply a way to see if my radiator has been replaced?

I ask because when I got the car 1.5 years ago, it had a bit of a shutter / jostle when slowing at a light, and then getting back on the accelerator lightly. The local indy did a conductor / controller plate replacement and fluid flush at my request because I wanted to re-set the knowledge factor on services.

I have had no problems with the tranny and now just the other day, I get a studder twice in a parking lot while traveling around 5-10 mph and transitioning between slowing and accelerating.

If this car has not had the radiator replaced, and I just prolonged failure by doing a complete flush fill and plate replacement, I want to find out. I am in the motivation that I will replace the internal cooler with an external to save myself from a 3200 repair bill.

Yes I know Mercedes engineered it this way, but so has everyother auto maker in the world with an automatic transmission...why can't we also replace the internal one with a tastefully installed external and negate the glycol contamination possibilities?
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:58 AM   #23
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By using the radiator to cool the transmission fluid, it also helps it warm up more quickly by being heated by the engine coolant.
It also helps provide stability to the fluid temperature preventing over cooling or over heating.

An independent cooler could not do that without adding a thermostatic bypass valve.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:56 PM   #24
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As I indicated in my previous posting, the 2003 W211 E Class models, and some early builds of 2004s, with the OEM Valeo radiator, are prone to connector breaks that allows coolant to enter the transmission through the transmission cooling line that shares the radiator for cooling. This happened to my vehicle which was repaired under the warranty to replace the radiator with the upgraded part no. and a new torque converter......my transmission was flushed but didn't need replacement since I noticed the shifting problem and immediately took it to my MB Dealer for investigation. MB Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) P-B-27.55/50g of March 6, 2008, provides guidance to MB Dealers how to diagnose whether the vehicle has the Valeo radiator installed and testing for the glycol leak issue. It applies to the following models and symptoms:

Model 203.040/061/064/065/081/084/261/264/281/284/740/747/764
Model 209.365/375/376/465/475
Model 211.065/070/076/083/265/283
Up to Production Date 09/2003
Harsh Engagement Possibly Followed by Droning/Buzzing Noises During Light Acceleration Between Engine Speed of 1200 – 2500 RPM

The TSB also shows how to identify whether your installed radiator is the Valeo unit but you may need a mechanic to confirm it, e.g., I couldn't find the Valeo nameplate on my radiator. If anyone wants a copy of this TSB, send me a Private Message (PM) through this forum with your email address, and I'll be happy to email you this TSB.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:41 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunnman99 View Post
OK.

I know there is a lot of info on the transmission / glycol contamination issue.

Not to over simplify, but why not just add an external passive air/fluid tranny cooler to isolate the tranny fluid form the radiator and the possibility of leaks in the tranny cooler in the bottom tank of the radiator.

Lastly, can anyone supply a way to see if my radiator has been replaced?

I ask because when I got the car 1.5 years ago, it had a bit of a shutter / jostle when slowing at a light, and then getting back on the accelerator lightly. The local indy did a conductor / controller plate replacement and fluid flush at my request because I wanted to re-set the knowledge factor on services.

I have had no problems with the tranny and now just the other day, I get a studder twice in a parking lot while traveling around 5-10 mph and transitioning between slowing and accelerating.

If this car has not had the radiator replaced, and I just prolonged failure by doing a complete flush fill and plate replacement, I want to find out. I am in the motivation that I will replace the internal cooler with an external to save myself from a 3200 repair bill.

Yes I know Mercedes engineered it this way, but so has everyother auto maker in the world with an automatic transmission...why can't we also replace the internal one with a tastefully installed external and negate the glycol contamination possibilities?
Seems to me the cheapest and easiest technical route would be to just do a preventative maintenance replacement of your existing OEM Valeo radiator with the upgraded MB replacement radiator part listed in the MB Parts Database that has the improved connector design. The current MB MSRP for the 2003 E500 replacement radiator is $605 plus installation labor, and some MB Dealer Service Departments sometimes provide discounts for parts and service like mine does (5 - 15%). You can also buy genuine MB parts at some online sites, e.g., this radiator is $454 at www.getmercedesparts.com, and have a third party MB service garage install it.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:41 PM
 
 
 
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