Blower motor replacement - 05 e500
03-04-2010, 11:21 AM
#1
Blower motor replacement - 05 e500
Hello,, i am trying to find out how to replace the blower motor in an 05 e500 because of an annoying chirp at low fan speeds... can you remove it from the engine bay side under the cabin filter or do you have to do it from the inside of the car (and how??)
thx
thx
03-04-2010, 04:45 PM
#5
I did this recently and posted some pics. I can't find the link here so it may be gone. Nevertheless, I bought a Behr replacement on line for $129. It is a duplicate of the OEM part and even had the MB star logo on the motor frame disfigured as it is sold as an aftermarket part. You must re install the motor speed controller from the old part. Very simple procedure, two screws and a electrical clip. You will need a set of torx screwdrivers for the job. Start by removing the knee panel beneath the glove compartment door, pay attention to the connection of the foot warming duct that is integral with the panel. Re attaching it was the hardest part of the job. The blower is housed in a plastic scroll case. 4 Screws to expose it and 4 more to remove it. Electrical connections are squeeze hard and pull gently. Probably a 1 to 1.5 hour job first time. There is a new part number for this motor. I could not determine that it is an improvement. My replacement appears to be a duplicate of the original so I would guess that it will fail pre- maturely as well. The bearings are sealed and dry out from the heat. I would stay away from used parts. This piece is short lived anyway and I see some e- bay sellers trying to get $200 for a 4 year old part. I don't see any reason to consider that
Search Squeaking Noise 06 -350
- should have pics. System will not allow re- posting pics
Replacing HVAC Blower
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have found so much useful info on this bord, I decided to document this fairly simple repair in appreciation of all those who have gone before me.
This was documented on our 2003 E 320 with ANALOG controls
First, remove the front passenger floor mat and get something to cushion your knees. If over 40, go ahead and take some Aleve.
You will need a few tools (image 055)
I used a #25 torx bit to remove the panel (image 54) that is held by two machine screws. It is accessible directly beneath the glove box. There is a built in duct that directs air to your feet, care in removing it by flexing it slightly . It was somewhat difficult to re- install. Note that the cover square duct goes OVER (outside) of the dampered portion of the heater duct. There is one friction plug as well as the two screws. There is a plug that powers the lamp, pinch and tug gently to disconnect.
Now we have exposed the bottom of the fan compartment (image 053)
There are 4 torx screws that need a #20 bit. Three are deep in plastic wells and are not visible. You must feel for the bit to engage and turn them cw.
The one in the rear that is surface visible required a short shank #20 torx bit and a 1/4 in drive because of clearance to the floorboard. These are a ***** to put back. You need either a magnetic tip or a telescoping sleeve used with battery drills to support the screw while you bullseye it blindly in the recessed hole. Scotch tape did not work for me.
You should be able to "crack" the bottom cover Slide it carefully along the wire and expose the plug on the bottom of the speed controller. Pinch it hard and gently tug. The fan is now free of encumberances save the 4 screws.
There are 4 each #20 torx screws that hold the fan inside of the scroll cage.
Support the fan with your hand or a short stick and remove all four screws.
Your fan should look like image 046.
Image 038 shows empty scroll cage after fan is removed.
Remove the fan speed controller (two #20 torx) and fan power plug (same drill, pinch and tug gently)
Your old fan should now look like image 043.
Now reattch the controller to the new unit. Should look like image 046 again.
Insert the fan/ controller back into the void scroll cage.
You must hold the fan with one hand and insert at least two screws hand tight before allowing it to hang. Install the two remaining screws and tighten all. Attch plug back into controller
Reinstall the fan compartment cover with the three deep well screws and one surface mount- image 053. Reinstall wire in two plastic looms
Reinstall large knee cover with two machine screws #25 torx and make sure the duct is engaged. Screws won't align unless it is correct.
Test motor. Annoying squeak is gone for a few more years.
Attached Thumbnails
Search Squeaking Noise 06 -350
- should have pics. System will not allow re- posting pics
Replacing HVAC Blower
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have found so much useful info on this bord, I decided to document this fairly simple repair in appreciation of all those who have gone before me.
This was documented on our 2003 E 320 with ANALOG controls
First, remove the front passenger floor mat and get something to cushion your knees. If over 40, go ahead and take some Aleve.
You will need a few tools (image 055)
I used a #25 torx bit to remove the panel (image 54) that is held by two machine screws. It is accessible directly beneath the glove box. There is a built in duct that directs air to your feet, care in removing it by flexing it slightly . It was somewhat difficult to re- install. Note that the cover square duct goes OVER (outside) of the dampered portion of the heater duct. There is one friction plug as well as the two screws. There is a plug that powers the lamp, pinch and tug gently to disconnect.
Now we have exposed the bottom of the fan compartment (image 053)
There are 4 torx screws that need a #20 bit. Three are deep in plastic wells and are not visible. You must feel for the bit to engage and turn them cw.
The one in the rear that is surface visible required a short shank #20 torx bit and a 1/4 in drive because of clearance to the floorboard. These are a ***** to put back. You need either a magnetic tip or a telescoping sleeve used with battery drills to support the screw while you bullseye it blindly in the recessed hole. Scotch tape did not work for me.
You should be able to "crack" the bottom cover Slide it carefully along the wire and expose the plug on the bottom of the speed controller. Pinch it hard and gently tug. The fan is now free of encumberances save the 4 screws.
There are 4 each #20 torx screws that hold the fan inside of the scroll cage.
Support the fan with your hand or a short stick and remove all four screws.
Your fan should look like image 046.
Image 038 shows empty scroll cage after fan is removed.
Remove the fan speed controller (two #20 torx) and fan power plug (same drill, pinch and tug gently)
Your old fan should now look like image 043.
Now reattch the controller to the new unit. Should look like image 046 again.
Insert the fan/ controller back into the void scroll cage.
You must hold the fan with one hand and insert at least two screws hand tight before allowing it to hang. Install the two remaining screws and tighten all. Attch plug back into controller
Reinstall the fan compartment cover with the three deep well screws and one surface mount- image 053. Reinstall wire in two plastic looms
Reinstall large knee cover with two machine screws #25 torx and make sure the duct is engaged. Screws won't align unless it is correct.
Test motor. Annoying squeak is gone for a few more years.
Attached Thumbnails
03-04-2010, 07:31 PM
#7
Hey guys,
this is an easy diy for most so here is what I did. I was thinking of replacing my blower motor as I was getting the annoying chirp noises constantly on lower settings. But before I spent 125-150 bucks on a new motor I decided to try and clean and lube the existing part. I took out the motor and also took the electronics off of the motor (you will know what I am talking about when you take your motor out). I then used compressed air and blew everything out of the motor. There was so much black dirt and dust.
I then took rubbing alcohol with q-tips and clean what I could of the brass contacts. There is a little window at the base of the motor. After the q-tips were no longer black I then took some prolink racing chain lube (great stuff on my mountain bike chain) and put a tiny amount on the shaft on the bottom of the motor. I would put a little on there (a drop at the most) and then spin the motor about 5 times. I would then put a little more and do the same. I did this for a total of 3 times (you don't want to put too much lube and have a mess). Make sure you are holding the motor upside down (you are looking at the bottom as you are spinning the motor) so gravity pulls the lube in.
I have had the motor back in my car for about 5k miles and not one peep at all. I am a fanatic when it comes to noises in my car so I would have definitely noticed any kind of squeaking in my car by now. I figured I had nothing to lose in cleaning the motor and putting a little lube on the bearing.
A little tip when you are putting everything back together. Make sure that the footwell cover (the piece of plastic that covers the whole underside of the footwell) is on straight at the left front corner. If it isn't than you will hear the vent flapper making noise when you switching from feet vents to front vents (don't ask me how I know
..
this is an easy diy for most so here is what I did. I was thinking of replacing my blower motor as I was getting the annoying chirp noises constantly on lower settings. But before I spent 125-150 bucks on a new motor I decided to try and clean and lube the existing part. I took out the motor and also took the electronics off of the motor (you will know what I am talking about when you take your motor out). I then used compressed air and blew everything out of the motor. There was so much black dirt and dust.
I then took rubbing alcohol with q-tips and clean what I could of the brass contacts. There is a little window at the base of the motor. After the q-tips were no longer black I then took some prolink racing chain lube (great stuff on my mountain bike chain) and put a tiny amount on the shaft on the bottom of the motor. I would put a little on there (a drop at the most) and then spin the motor about 5 times. I would then put a little more and do the same. I did this for a total of 3 times (you don't want to put too much lube and have a mess). Make sure you are holding the motor upside down (you are looking at the bottom as you are spinning the motor) so gravity pulls the lube in.
I have had the motor back in my car for about 5k miles and not one peep at all. I am a fanatic when it comes to noises in my car so I would have definitely noticed any kind of squeaking in my car by now. I figured I had nothing to lose in cleaning the motor and putting a little lube on the bearing.
A little tip when you are putting everything back together. Make sure that the footwell cover (the piece of plastic that covers the whole underside of the footwell) is on straight at the left front corner. If it isn't than you will hear the vent flapper making noise when you switching from feet vents to front vents (don't ask me how I know
..
Trending Topics
09-11-2014, 02:20 PM
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'06 E320 CDI, NAV/HK Sound/Xenons/KeylessGo, '05 997 Carrera cabrio, '08 R320 CDI.
Best deal for the motor...
I just bought the replacement HVAC blower motor from "Imports Parts Depot" located in CA (good phone support, I called to find out more about the motor), I bought directly from their website for 77 bucks, shipping included!, its not oem tho, its by some company called Koolman, its listed as "oem type" with 1 year warranty, not that I care, the oem ones by Behr don't seem to last long in the first place. If its no good I'll let you all know....installing it this weekend...
