LemonSqueezy

You could maybe give K-MAC Bushings a shot. Not sure how good they are though.

pinebaron

They are absolutely awesome. Check my signature. I had them professionally installed.

Hondo78

Great endorsement on the K-Mac bushings. How many miles on the tires since the bushing installation?

pinebaron

12K and now putting on over 2K a month since I've just commenced using this vehicle for my daily commute (110 miles daily round trip). Amazingly the tires still look new. The only thing I have to be careful off, is a regular (not frequent) check on wheel alignment especially following exposure to a few pot holes. Even though the rear tires can be set with zero camber, I had the shop set for slight negative camber to prevent tire edges hitting the fender even though they were rolled; using fairly wide tires in the rear. Check out my signature. With my suspension setup, the car is really low; with sills just shy of 4.5" off the ground. She drives as if on a cloud, despite using 19" wheels; even rough roads are no match for any discomfort for Bilstein iRC active suspension setup.

njmaxpayne

what bushings are you refering to?i talked to ghostmotorsports and the kit that they sell comes with 2 front links and some kind of shims for the rear bracket where u reverse it somehow and they said it was waaaay easier and safer and car does not sit higher on one side like it happens with a lot of rear links.any of you guys heard of that or instalm their kit?the giy that I spoke to Alex sounded very knowlegable on those cars and said i can get it shipped for 160$

pinebaron

K-Macs are much more expensive, I think it was around $1K front and rear shipped from Australia; if there was something better, I'd have bought it.
http://www.k-mac.com/pages/newprods/...ercedes_04.htm

Hondo78

Thanks for the details, I just had the new tires put on, ordering the Adjustable rear bushings today. I do want to lower the car 3/4" while installing the Adjustable bushings at the same time.
Thanks-

njmaxpayne

ok so today I lowered my car with washers on the fron and washer in the rear.4 M6 washers that equall shy of a 1/4" on the front sensor bolts,and 1/16" of an inch washer in the back between the subframe and the bracket for the sensor.just losened up the 2 nuts until there's enough room to slide the washer in there as a shim and tighten it up.it all gave the car 1" shy on the front and 1" at the rear.that's in Sprot2 mode.i took some nice quality pictures so i'll post them when i transfer them from my phone to my computer,since all the pictures i found about this job were crappy quality and unclear of what are you looking at (i'm sorry but they are).I found the directions from ghost motorsports about their front links and their method of shimming the back so I decided to put washers on the front and just shim the back.save myself 160$ and the hassle of adjusting those front links.i'm happy with the result.it really is a 20 min job and about 20$ worth of materials.I'm saying 20$ because i'm including the price I paid for the caliper.u need one to make sure that tha thikness of the washers all add up to the same siZe on each side.bought like 30 of them and used 4 on each side with a totall

scotty68

any pictures? possible you can take picture where you would adjust the back? plan on tackling this asap.

njmaxpayne

i have them all in my phone.i jut have to get the time to transfer them on my computer and upload them here because IDK how to it from the iphone since i'm using not the full site but the mobile version of the forum

njmaxpayne

washer type that i used

njmaxpayne

10 mm nut location is on top of the control arm.ppl are saying that you can do it with the wheel on,but do yourself a favor and take it off!

njmaxpayne

losen the nut while holding the bracket with vice grips because it will be rusty and will spin with the nut and you might end up breaking the plastic link

njmaxpayne

then drop the bolt down put 4 washers not more than 1/4 because the nut wont go over it and thigthen with the vice grips still on the bracket because it will slip.then the rear you have to slide under the car and locate the sensor which is attached to the subframe with 2 bolts 10mm same size as the front.i did not get pics of that since my phone was far and didn't feel like crawling back out from under the car BUT here's the ghost motorsports instruction on how it shpuld be done which i pretty much did with 2 washers shy of 1/8" thick.put them on the exact same spot that they show.

njmaxpayne

and this is the end result.1 1/8" all the way around in sport 2 mode.

njmaxpayne

it's a really easy DYI job....like you have to be blind not to be able to do it...maybe even then you'll be OK LOL,,no i cant waut for my tires to get here and put my black 20" Niche GT-5's on

scotty68

looks pretty simple. thanks for the images

now, should i be in highest setting before doing this or does it matter?

njmaxpayne

it doesn't matter.i'd measure before and after in each setting so you can have an idea of how much it went down.first put it in neutral and measure from the geound up to the top of the fender on each side,then go and do the same in every mode including in raised then out the washers in and measure again and see where u at

pinebaron

Can't go any lower

AMGAffalterbach

Just looked up Bilstein iRC and wow that's a cool system, it's like AirMatic but with a lot less body roll and squat I bet, and without the unreliability of an air suspension system.

pinebaron

Absolutely; Bilstein iRC can be adjusted for damping response along three axis and permits instant switching from one mode to another even whilst driving. Three settings out of the box; Comfort+, Auto & Sport+ with three additional fully configurable settings, Comfort, Normal and Sport.

AMGAffalterbach

I've done a bit of research into the B16 RideControls after I first asked about it and I'm impressed, it's really a top of the line coilover with electronic dampening and adjustability. Insane how it can map out, and even display back, in real time how to correct brake dive, pitch, body roll, and every other suspension issue. On my next car, hopefully the CLS63 I'm looking at getting, I'm definitely going to replace my AirMatic components with that setup. Really cool, if you haven't already you should do a full thread/review on them I'm sure a lot of people would be interested since it's an actual performance adjustable suspension. How does the ride compare to OEM?

pinebaron

Like night and day! I believe it's the complete package (in my sig) that contributes to ride quality, extended tire life (so far so good, talk to me in six months) and no issues.

eezm3

Sorry for bumping an old thread - but I finally got around the doing the rears today. I used the shimmy method - instead of washers I first actually used two pennies side by side with a layer of tape on it. Installation was a breeze but it turns out that the thickness of the penny made it so slammed i scraped by exhaust getting off the ramps

Took them out and cut up a thinner piece of plastic to stick in there and it was the perfect drop!

I don't see any danger whatsoever in this modification, all it is doing is altering the distance between the bracket and subframe. Changing out the rear link is such a PITA and now it is just a paperweight.

karpetcm

sorry to bug saw this and wanted to do it as well. do i put washers in were the control arm is and by the sensor bracket in the rear?