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E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

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Old 01-19-2013, 12:34 PM   #1
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OK, MAF replacement didn't work; ERG next?

My 2005 CDI lost most of its power and wouldn't shift down when floored, and the check engine light came on. So I read through this forum and decieded to investigate the mass air flow sensor. So I sprayed electrical cleaner on it and test drove it and it worked fine again. I ordered a sensor and continued to drive the car without incident. I replaced the sensor yesterday (a week after the initial issue) and drove in to town for an errand. On the way back from town it acted up again. Not much acceleration, won't shift down when floored, engine light on.

I thought I was cutting a fat hog when I sprayed on the cleaner, but sounds like that was just a coincidence.

So I am reading more on the forum and it sounds like the next best candidate is the EGR. But there are some threads that say this is a dealer item to replace and not a DIY item since you need to load some software. (Flash).

A would appreciate some advice here. I am not against taking it in, but I would rather fix it myself if I can. (I like the satisfaction, and always worry about being gouged.)

Is it likely the EGR?
Any good way to test?
Any tricks to replacing?
Is there already a thread on this that I am missing?
Should I just take it in?
Does it take any special "mercedes only" tools?

By the way, Mercedes wanted $347 for the MAF. I had a printed paper from Part.com for $280 (tip from this forum), and Mercedes matched that price.
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:31 PM   #2
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If you must spend some money, spend it on a scanner ....

before you spend it on the next part.

You need to know the codes that are associated with the check engine light. There are hundreds of codes. You could replace the car bit by bit and not get there until you've spent thousands on guessing which part it may be.

The scanner connects in the area below the steering wheel and reads the codes. There is a flap to cover where you plug it in to. Get the codes, and then come back here. I own a ScanTool Equus 3130 scanner. There are plenty that are less expensive than mine and will simply tell you the code(s) you have.
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:37 PM   #3
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To increase your knowledge you could try this book....

Once you get the codes, you may want to know what they are telling you and understand the various sub-systems. The codes help focus your efforts, but an understanding of what's going on makes it feasible to actually diagnose.

If you want to know more about OBD-II codes and such, then Haynes has an excellent book "OBD-II & Electronic Engine Management Systems". Haynes Techbook 10206, ISBN 1 56392 612 1. It is written for the technically-minded, lay-person. I got mine at Pep Boys for about $20.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:00 PM   #4
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I actually started out with reading the trouble codes, but none of the numbers it threw out matched the codes in the book that came with the code reader (UIF Tech). So my neighbor said he had the same issue with his gas mercedes and he sprayed the MAF with cleaner. When doing that made my car run fine I thought I nailed it, and decided to purchase the MAF and install it. Here are the numbers that it spit out:
2100
2112
2116
2155
2237
3816
3818
4155
7555
7557
7575
9555
209E When ZAS is turned off, cylinder 11 exhaust valve is inactive
709E
7AF2
98A2
98A5
BE04
C829
CAA2
CAAA
CAGE
DD01
EAA2
7545
OAAA
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:33 PM   #5
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The information is meaningless----and you asked the wrong person----ask the wife she will know where to plug in the OBDII reader.

Seems like your reader is faulty or you--------------
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:06 PM   #6
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OBD-11 DTCs should be decimal, not hexadecimal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Palanuk View Post
I actually started out with reading the trouble codes, but none of the numbers it threw out matched the codes in the book that came with the code reader (UIF Tech). So my neighbor said he had the same issue with his gas mercedes and he sprayed the MAF with cleaner. When doing that made my car run fine I thought I nailed it, and decided to purchase the MAF and install it. Here are the numbers that it spit out:
2100
2112
2116
2155
2237
3816
3818
4155
7555
7557
7575
9555
209E When ZAS is turned off, cylinder 11 exhaust valve is inactive
709E
7AF2
98A2
98A5
BE04
C829
CAA2
CAAA
CAGE
DD01
EAA2
7545
OAAA
A typical code reader will give a code such as "P0123". The codes listed here are indeed meaningless, and even when converted from hex to dec are still rubbish. Perhaps you can get another code reader or check the one you have on another vehicle to see if it successfully establishes communications.
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:03 AM   #7
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They where meaningless to me also. I thought I could just use my neighbors reader. It says it works with all S and E class vehicles. Hang with me while I purchase one and get some numbers that can actually help diagnose.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:23 PM   #8
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Got a reader and a code: P0404, Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit Range/Performance. Any advice on the next course of action? Clean EGR? Test EGR? Replace EGR? other? The car is currently running just fine again. I has had 2 hiccups in the past two weeks.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:10 PM   #9
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Sounds like your new ECU has sensed a fault with the left exhaust gas recirculation position sensor.

It's small motor gets instructions(based upon many sensors) from the ECU to open(allow more) and close(reduce amount) of exhaust gases going into the cylinders----therefore out of range.

I know----------- you have read all about ERG's and every body sprays the hell out of the device with little or no result, never the less you will do the same and get the same result. So spray it and advise the result!!

In the final analysis you will need a new sensor!!
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:49 PM   #10
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The EGR valve and the EGR valve position sensor are in the same unit, correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plutoe View Post
Sounds like your new ECU has sensed a fault with the left exhaust gas recirculation position sensor.

It's small motor gets instructions(based upon many sensors) from the ECU to open(allow more) and close(reduce amount) of exhaust gases going into the cylinders----therefore out of range.

I know----------- you have read all about ERG's and every body sprays the hell out of the device with little or no result, never the less you will do the same and get the same result. So spray it and advise the result!!

In the final analysis you will need a new sensor!!
Plutoe, To repeat my subject heading, this is an integrated unit, right? On my E320 petrol, it is A1121400060 and only about $120 and not worth fiddling with on a car that's at all old.

You are correct that everyone claims that it can be cleaned but I have no experience of the success rate for that and you apparently know it sucks.

BTW, my DTC table does not specify a side for a P0404 code, so I don't know how you got to that level of detail. Mine just says "EGR - Range or performance problem". (Subsequent codes, 0405 - 0409 are described in a side-specific way). None of this paragraph may matter to the OP.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:47 AM   #11
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Well we both could be in trouble here-------my analysis is based on the OP's personal data where he has indicated that he drives a 2005 320 CDI repeat CDI.

His opening post kinda substantiates that by him saying " My 2005 CDI "

That being the case, I have a question for you-------what do you think CDI means??

With your answer ---then may help you understand my response and the many differences in EGR design, function and application depending on types of engine design.

It has gotten very complicated!!
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:20 PM   #12
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You learn something new everyday

Well, Plutoe, yes I already knew the car was a diesel. But so far as knowing my left from my right, I'd never seen the engine itself. I didn't know it was an in-line 6. I assumed a V configuration and when I saw you write "left", that sealed it for me and reinforced my false assumption.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:20 PM   #13
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I will tear into it, hopefully this weekend. I don't mind futzing with it rather than just replacing it since it not an inconvienince yet. I will update when I have something to share. Thanks folks.
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:48 PM   #14
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I pulled it out and clean and lubed it and put it back in. So now, is it just a "wait and see what happens" exercise? It was a little sticky prior to cleaning and lubing; it would return closed on its own afterwards. It was initially open a couple milimeters when I removed it, but closed as soon as I touched it (You can see how much it is open in the picture.) Here are some photos.
Attached Thumbnails
OK, MAF replacement didn't work; ERG next?-imgp1853.jpg   OK, MAF replacement didn't work; ERG next?-imgp1855.jpg  
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:36 AM   #15
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The clean and lube didn't seem to work. It acted up again with intermittent loss of power. I cleared the P0404 code previously and it came back again. Is there any other test I can do to rule in or rule out the $420 ERG as the root cause?
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:06 PM   #16
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I know this won't help you at all, but I had similar symptoms to what you described, but on my bluetec, and my Torque OBD2 Android scanner shows a MAF P0100 error code. It only happens when the car is already at operating temps and then I floor it at highway speeds (basically, getting the car to almost redline). Then the CEL comes on and that code pops up. Weird stuff.. I'll post and let everyone know what it is when I get it checked out in a few weeks ( A restart always fixes it).
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DubVBenz View Post
I know this won't help you at all, but I had similar symptoms to what you described, but on my bluetec, and my Torque OBD2 Android scanner shows a MAF P0100 error code. It only happens when the car is already at operating temps and then I floor it at highway speeds (basically, getting the car to almost redline). Then the CEL comes on and that code pops up. Weird stuff.. I'll post and let everyone know what it is when I get it checked out in a few weeks ( A restart always fixes it).
Please keep us posted. I floor mine a lot (not really a lot but when on NJ turnpike) however never experienced any codes but then I've only put on 33K miles since new, same year and model as yours. How many miles on yours?
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:15 AM   #18
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Please keep us posted. I floor mine a lot (not really a lot but when on NJ turnpike) however never experienced any codes but then I've only put on 33K miles since new, same year and model as yours. How many miles on yours?
75K now, will be getting it to a shop in a couple of weeks..
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Old 02-24-2013, 01:38 PM   #19
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same problem!

I am having the same problem on my 07 E320 blue tec. My guy replaced the MAF and didnt work and is now suggesting the erg value replacement. Has anyone found something that really works for this issue! thanks
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:14 PM   #20
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Fire the jerk that told you had the same problem and get your money back!!

Then get a good scan and really find out what is wrong and quit your whining!!!
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:36 PM   #21
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Have him remove the MAF and put the old one back....

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I am having the same problem on my 07 E320 blue tec. My guy replaced the MAF and didnt work and is now suggesting the erg value replacement. Has anyone found something that really works for this issue! thanks

I had an issue with my engine last year. Quite reasonably, given the codes, the Indie replaced the MAF. It actually wasn't the issue and I returned the next day. He put the old MAF back on (his practice was to keep them a few days) and refunded me the cost of the part and instal. The issue turned out to be an unplugged tube.

A refund (of some part of the cost) is what you should seek here.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:37 PM   #22
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The codes help focus your efforts, but an understanding of what's going on makes it feasible to actually diagnose.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:14 PM   #23
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05 320 CDI are known to have EGR issues due to the hardware malfunction and problems w/software that controls the valve. All of them resolved by replacing it and updating the ECU software. Replacing the valve w/new one does not do any good unless is done in conjunction w/software update.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:18 PM   #24
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By the way CDI engine codes start from P0100.
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:13 PM   #25
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05 320 CDI are known to have EGR issues due to the hardware malfunction and problems w/software that controls the valve. All of them resolved by replacing it and updating the ECU software. Replacing the valve w/new one does not do any good unless is done in conjunction w/software update.
Is updating the ECU software possible with one of the higher end scanners or is that update a dealer only operation?
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:13 PM
 
 
 
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analysis, benz, cleaning, code, didnt, e320, error, exhaust, gas, maf, ml55, replacement, w210, w211, work



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