isstay

No it is dealer only operation.

DubVBenz

What tube was unplugged? Can you provide more details?

ozusa

The tube that was unplugged was just behind the left head-light. I had knocked it loose when changing the spark plug wires. Reconnected the tube and problem solved.

isstay

This thread is for diesel EGR, not gas.

DubVBenz

Turns out the same tube you're probably talking about (mine from the intercooler back to the turbo) had a major split in it, where pressure was leaking out of. If your tube was on the drivers side, it was the feeder tube to the intercooler. I'm going to have both tubes replaced.

isstay

He unplugged some vacuum while changing spark plugs, he say.

DubVBenz

haha, yea, it must be a special edition diesel to have the spark plugs.

Palanuk

Well, I made it 6 weeks after cleaning the EGR. The lack of power and check engine light came on. This time instead of the P0404, I got P2511.... Check component Y27/9 (left EGR positioner) positioner fault.

Plutoe

Well the BS spray didn't solve and won't the problem. The positioner is the device(small motor) that gets instructions from the ECU to allow more or less exhaust gas into the system.Sounds like it is faulty!!

Once again, if you have a good scanner with freeze frame functions you can determine the conditions(reasons) which caused the fault. If not you are back to the "finger in the wind approach"

isstay

It is a known issue, now you can go to a dealership and get it replaced, drive w/check engine light on if no limp mode or use EGR delete modification to get rid of the problem.

Palanuk

I think the scanner I used is good. It is a Snap-on Solus Full Function device. Would the freeze frame function need to catch the fault in the act, or pull it from memory? Because the problem goes away on the next "key off/on" cycle. And I can't feasibly drive around with the scanner reading all the time waiting for another fault to occur.

Other than satisifying my curiousity, how will knowing the condition of the positioner change my next step? I am under the impression it comes with the EGR and I can't buy it seperately.

Palanuk

Not sure I am ready to go there,

isstay

I was exploring your options. You can also find programmer who is willing to delete EGR from ECU software.

Palanuk

I am not opposed to that. If I knew a local expert and they had experience with this before, I would pursue it, but I don't have contacts nor do I know how to find them.

Plutoe

My suggestion is read your scanner manual to determine if the freeze frame feature is available. If it does, there are loads of books on the subject you can read, because educating yourself about your car would have solved your issue long ago(you would have known what saved engine conditions(freeze frame) caused the fault(that eliminates most false positive situations) then get on with your life and fix the problem or sell the car!!

If more folks had the capability---you would not have posts--- "Like what is next I changed XXXXX and I still have a fault. Or I read all the post and it must be a crank position sensor---they change it and still have a fault--!!Just a waste of time and money!!

Yes you are correct that the positioner is apart of the valve!!(ain't cheap)

DubVBenz

Like I said, I had the same symptoms, but no EGR code. Replacing the hose that feeds pressure from the intercooler to the turbo is what fixed it for me. It was a large split, and once at operating temp, when you floored it, it would open up and leak air, which would cause the boost sensor to read insufficient boost and put the car in limp mode.

65aircooled

I know this thread is almost a year old but have any of the people in here get a resolution to their problem? Dealer fix or otherwise?
Thanks.

Palanuk

I never did replace the EGR valve. I was waiting for it to get really bad before I cough up $420 for a new one. It has acted up a couple more times in the last year and I just clear the code. But that isn't a "critical annoyance" point. So I continues to drive without much issue.

65aircooled

Thanks for the reply. Mine just started and it pretty much goes into limp mode every time. It gets back to normal after turning the engine off for a couple of minutes and it doesnt throw a cel every time. When it does I get code P0404
I wouldn't mind buying the new EGR and reflashing if I knew that will fix the problem, but I have been reading abut thhis all day and some have had the problem withing a 100 miles or less of replacing the EGR. Not ready to start throwing parts at this car yet.

Palanuk

OK, here it is over 2.5 years later and I finally got my EGR valve replaced. It was a minor annoyance, acting up every few months. But a couple days ago it made the car run rough on start up, and wouldn't come out of "limp" mode, and the check engine came on (P0404). So I took it in to the dealership (I could have replaced it myself, but I didn't have the ability to flash or update the SW). So after spending $840, I have new EGR; still have limp mode, plus a new trouble code (not present when I picked up the car). Code is P2015.

In the notes section of the invoice, they wrote: "Found high amounts of carbon build up. Inspected and actuated inlet port shut-off motor. Note: recommend inlet port shut-off motor in near future due to carbon build up which can cause inlet port shut-off motor to fail. Inlet port shut off motor comes complete with intake manifold assembly."

Under Recommended Service they say: "Complete intake manifold with inlet port shut-off motor (code 2513 inlet port shut-off motor failing $2,415.73."

Anybody have a recommendation? Did they misdiagnose the EGR? Did the new EGR somehow cause the new issue? Did the dealership know they misdiagnosed and are trying to redirect the attention. Should ask for my money back? I plan to do more research myself in parallel, but wanted to start with this forum and thread.

Anyone?