W211 Low Battery Warning -
#51
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
>170k on original brushes and having electrical problems?
You are really pushing your luck.
You are really pushing your luck.
#53
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I am wondering what the rating of your battery is. I was still going through issues even after switching out my regulator and had the same symptoms as you.
The days were hot and the A/C would come on full blast. After a few minutes the battery low message would come up and after a while of driving, it would go away. I had a 650 CCA battery in there. After switching to 850 CCA battery, the issues went away. The 650 CCA battery tested good and I swapped it into my E55 and have not had any issues in the E55. My E320 CDI has a higher power radiator fan (850W vs 650W in the AMG and my original fan motor was 600W in the CDI) so that may have contributed.
Some basic fundamental checks would be to ensure the battery post clamps are good and tight and not corroded.
The days were hot and the A/C would come on full blast. After a few minutes the battery low message would come up and after a while of driving, it would go away. I had a 650 CCA battery in there. After switching to 850 CCA battery, the issues went away. The 650 CCA battery tested good and I swapped it into my E55 and have not had any issues in the E55. My E320 CDI has a higher power radiator fan (850W vs 650W in the AMG and my original fan motor was 600W in the CDI) so that may have contributed.
Some basic fundamental checks would be to ensure the battery post clamps are good and tight and not corroded.
#54
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1986 190D 5spd
I am wondering what the rating of your battery is. I was still going through issues even after switching out my regulator and had the same symptoms as you.
The days were hot and the A/C would come on full blast. After a few minutes the battery low message would come up and after a while of driving, it would go away. I had a 650 CCA battery in there. After switching to 850 CCA battery, the issues went away. The 650 CCA battery tested good and I swapped it into my E55 and have not had any issues in the E55. My E320 CDI has a higher power radiator fan (850W vs 650W in the AMG and my original fan motor was 600W in the CDI) so that may have contributed.
Some basic fundamental checks would be to ensure the battery post clamps are good and tight and not corroded.
The days were hot and the A/C would come on full blast. After a few minutes the battery low message would come up and after a while of driving, it would go away. I had a 650 CCA battery in there. After switching to 850 CCA battery, the issues went away. The 650 CCA battery tested good and I swapped it into my E55 and have not had any issues in the E55. My E320 CDI has a higher power radiator fan (850W vs 650W in the AMG and my original fan motor was 600W in the CDI) so that may have contributed.
Some basic fundamental checks would be to ensure the battery post clamps are good and tight and not corroded.
Are we sure the small (sbc) battery wont trigger this warning? Havn't tested it yet but as stated the functions are fine until what i assume is the car diagnosing something and cutting cconvenience in response. Its more like 5-10 seconds after start rather than the minutes you eexperienced.
Last edited by Proctor750; 07-21-2016 at 07:46 PM.
#55
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1986 190D 5spd
So Main battery checked out fine and is from DEC 14'.
The Aux Battery also checked out OK and had 12.8 V when tested with car off.
The light and lack of A/C now remains on MUCH longer than before. (it's HOT down here!)
If the Aux and Main battery both check out fine that means that the alternator is doing it's job in maintaining their voltage.
So what the heck is left? Control Module? If I get it hooked up to STAR will it indicate what specifically is triggering the lack of convenience features and warning? Or will it be a generic offering?
The Aux Battery also checked out OK and had 12.8 V when tested with car off.
The light and lack of A/C now remains on MUCH longer than before. (it's HOT down here!)
If the Aux and Main battery both check out fine that means that the alternator is doing it's job in maintaining their voltage.
So what the heck is left? Control Module? If I get it hooked up to STAR will it indicate what specifically is triggering the lack of convenience features and warning? Or will it be a generic offering?
#56
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I will repeat one more time.
> 170k on alternator brushes and you still wonder why you have electrical problems.
SD might narrow the issues, but will not point each screw.
> 170k on alternator brushes and you still wonder why you have electrical problems.
SD might narrow the issues, but will not point each screw.
#57
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
So Main battery checked out fine and is from DEC 14'.
The Aux Battery also checked out OK and had 12.8 V when tested with car off.
The light and lack of A/C now remains on MUCH longer than before. (it's HOT down here!)
If the Aux and Main battery both check out fine that means that the alternator is doing it's job in maintaining their voltage.
So what the heck is left? Control Module? If I get it hooked up to STAR will it indicate what specifically is triggering the lack of convenience features and warning? Or will it be a generic offering?
The Aux Battery also checked out OK and had 12.8 V when tested with car off.
The light and lack of A/C now remains on MUCH longer than before. (it's HOT down here!)
If the Aux and Main battery both check out fine that means that the alternator is doing it's job in maintaining their voltage.
So what the heck is left? Control Module? If I get it hooked up to STAR will it indicate what specifically is triggering the lack of convenience features and warning? Or will it be a generic offering?
#58
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1986 190D 5spd
Voltage is one thing, current is another. You should get the battery load tested, just because the voltage is there, doesn't mean it will be able to supply the current. Loose wires can also lead to low current flow. There's also the voltage regulator and the battery control module. I'd suspect the voltage regulator first, then alternator, then control module. But if you take it to a shop, they should be able to test all that out without using SD.
After weeks of ignoring the convenience features it finally struggled to start and the windows barely were able to shut before I limped it home with no power steering and no SBC.
My suspicion is either voltage regulator OR alternator.
I am going to take both batteries out tonight since the rear is definitely close to dead now and have them tested/deep cycle charged at autopwn.
Question: Could the isolation relay have anything to do with this?
I think I can justify doing the following given the age/miles of the car:
Replace either voltage regulator OR entire alternator AND isolation relay.
Does anyone know part numbers for:
Voltage Regulator
Alternator
Isolation Relay
I have 2005 CDI A757117
Edit: would
Regulator: 0031544106
Alternator: 0131545602
be correct?
I'm also seeing 0041540006 for the regulator.... perhaps updated number?
Last edited by Proctor750; 08-14-2016 at 10:02 PM.
#59
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Look at my pics in this DIY. I replaced the regulator. It is for 2005 E320 CDI:
https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...nator-diy.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...nator-diy.html
#60
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1986 190D 5spd
Look at my pics in this DIY. I replaced the regulator. It is for 2005 E320 CDI:
https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...nator-diy.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...nator-diy.html
This means you used 0031544106
Which councides with
BOSCH#
F00M144108
F00M144132
F00M145292 *
F00M145374 *
F00M145884
FOOM144108
FOOM144132
FOOM145292
FOOM145374
FOOM145884
What is odd is the dealer parts site i visit show 0041540006 as the correct # which may or may not coincide with the above list. I guess ill know more when I pull mine.
#61
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Why make a puzzle when ordering from internet dealer gives you full warranty.
http://www.mbdirectparts.com/ is at this time probably best MB supplier.
For strange reason the MB dealers making internet sales come and go, but that is another story.
The guys above might not be the fastest, but good communication and found me rare parts.
http://www.mbdirectparts.com/ is at this time probably best MB supplier.
For strange reason the MB dealers making internet sales come and go, but that is another story.
The guys above might not be the fastest, but good communication and found me rare parts.
#62
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1986 190D 5spd
Why make a puzzle when ordering from internet dealer gives you full warranty.
http://www.mbdirectparts.com/ is at this time probably best MB supplier.
For strange reason the MB dealers making internet sales come and go, but that is another story.
The guys above might not be the fastest, but good communication and found me rare parts.
http://www.mbdirectparts.com/ is at this time probably best MB supplier.
For strange reason the MB dealers making internet sales come and go, but that is another story.
The guys above might not be the fastest, but good communication and found me rare parts.
p.s there is a giant intercooler pipe blocking the back of the alternator on the cdi....
i assume this must be removed to gain access to regulator...
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#66
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
as long as you did not have to remove it via tailpipe...
Each job can be always done in several ways.
Report if your electrical problems are over?
Each job can be always done in several ways.
Report if your electrical problems are over?
#67
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1986 190D 5spd
its weird how they wore so uneven.
oh i also have a small oil leak somewhere that i cant track because of the diesel leak from the pump seals that spread the oil leak all over the place including the alternator...
#68
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
The shorter brush looks burned, when the long one would indicate it was not old.
Most likely the short was hang and sparked a lot.
This way or the other, you did not have much left.
Inspect and clean commutator bars.
Most likely the short was hang and sparked a lot.
This way or the other, you did not have much left.
Inspect and clean commutator bars.
#69
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Attached is a picture of both my new and old voltage regulators. The brushes on the new vr measured approximately 5/8-inch, where the old brushes measured a little less than 3/8-inch. My cdi has 135k on it. One less thing to worry about.
Mike T.
Mike T.
#70
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Calculating 1/8" for final clearance, you went from 5/8 to 3/8 what is about 50% of usable length.
At 135 k the VR was either replaced, or lights were seldom used.
I posted picture of my brushes after 165k in other topic and did not have much sticking out.
At 135 k the VR was either replaced, or lights were seldom used.
I posted picture of my brushes after 165k in other topic and did not have much sticking out.
#71
Super Member
I had the cdi since approximately 40k miles on it, so I doubt that the VR or alternator was ever changed. I also have printouts of everything the previous owner had done to the car from the MB dealer. The headlights are on at all times. I installed HID's about a year ago and I had another indie (who works for MB) switch the DRL settings to on(?). I must be too easy on my cdi!
Mike T.
Mike T.
#72
Convenience Functions Temporarily Unavailable= 2006 E500
FINALLY... I've been dealing with this message for a couple of months, checked batteries, replaced aux. battery (bad anyway), but the message always prevailed! Today I came across someone's thread on here that said his cables were loose!! Guess what, I went outside and mine were loose!!! Tightened them and the message FINALLY went away. While I feel like an idiot posting this, I hope it helps someone to check the simplest most obvious things before leaping into higher cost remedies only to find that dreaded message again. All the best!!
#73
Senior Member
FINALLY... I've been dealing with this message for a couple of months, checked batteries, replaced aux. battery (bad anyway), but the message always prevailed! Today I came across someone's thread on here that said his cables were loose!! Guess what, I went outside and mine were loose!!! Tightened them and the message FINALLY went away. While I feel like an idiot posting this, I hope it helps someone to check the simplest most obvious things before leaping into higher cost remedies only to find that dreaded message again. All the best!!
Although it is most-likely unnecessary overkill, when I install a battery, I put those little red and green felt battery terminal protectors at the bottom of the post, take a battery brush and brush the inside of the cable connector clamps, and spray CRC terminal protectant on the terminal posts and the inside of the clamp connectors. Would it work without doing this? Of course. But five years later, I can open the battery compartment and inspect the terminals and connection, and they are still perfect. Do it right and with pride to start with, and you are far-less-likely to have to redo it later.
Last edited by wjcandee; 08-15-2019 at 05:18 PM.
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#74
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Absolutely. Start with the simple stuff...and that stuff always looks fine until you do something like yank on the cable and it comes right off the post. And corrosion is an issue, too.
Although it is most-likely unnecessary overkill, when I install a battery, I put those little red and green felt battery terminal protectors at the bottom of the post, take a battery brush and brush the inside of the cable connector clamps, and spray CRC terminal protectant on the terminal posts and the inside of the clamp connectors. Would it work without doing this? Of course. But five years later, I can open the battery compartment and inspect the terminals and connection, and they are still perfect. Do it right and with pride to start with, and you are far-less-likely to have to redo it later.
Although it is most-likely unnecessary overkill, when I install a battery, I put those little red and green felt battery terminal protectors at the bottom of the post, take a battery brush and brush the inside of the cable connector clamps, and spray CRC terminal protectant on the terminal posts and the inside of the clamp connectors. Would it work without doing this? Of course. But five years later, I can open the battery compartment and inspect the terminals and connection, and they are still perfect. Do it right and with pride to start with, and you are far-less-likely to have to redo it later.
#75
Senior Member
On the other hand, I pulled the original AGM Mercedes battery out of a 2008 ML350, and the connectors were covered with corrosion so thick I had to chisel it off...