Rossafuss

Sorry for the delay guys, been busy.

The CD changer function is no longer supported, and i just found out recently that the CD changer DOOR no longer operates either.
(i never used it anyways, so i didn't notice it very quickly.) I plan on removing the cd changer itself, and fabricating a storage box that lays in where that used to be. Then rewiring the "door" to open and close without a signal from the OEM command. That would be the ultimate solution to the problem, since the CD changer is no longer needed.

UPDATE: Still loving this HU setup. Its got more features than I really need and almost fully integrates with he car. The only thing really missing is displaying GPS directions on the IC, and maybe a little better Bluetooth audio streaming quality. Its really not that bad, but its not as good as CD/ MP3 files of the SD card in the HU. Call quality over Bluetooth is fantastic though. i've the "delay off" setting set at 2 hours, so the HU stays in "sleep mode" rather than turning all the way off when you remove the key. That way when you're running around place to place, or shutting your engine on and off frequently, the HU turns on INSTANTLY. Even from a standard boot it takes less than 30 seconds. Quite pleased with this purchase.

yongsiklee

Can you tell me total how much you spent on the UNIT with parts?
OF COURSE, EXCLUDING LABOR.

Rossafuss

Just shy of $700 for everything.

paperchase

@Rossafuss you seem to know a great deal about these Droid headunits. I'm planning an install (by someone else) and I'm not sure if what I'm considering will work.

I have a 2005 CL600 with MOST setup. I plan to purchase the 5.1 Android headunit and use the AVIN interface to power the full range speakers. I then want to use an aftermarket amp for the rear shelf sub (which I plan to upgrade to an old stock JL Audio 10IB4).

My question is can I do this and, if so, how? For example, can I use the AVIN interface for the full range and simply use the sub outs on the headunit or do I still need the so called "bypass" cable.

I'm thinking this approach will spare a lot of rewiring by keeping the fibre optic loop in tact (including all components) and allow me to separately address the subwoofer issue. Thoughts?

Rossafuss

That sounds like a good setup. On the back of the android HU, there are several outputs. you have front left and right, rear left and right, as well as sub left and right. The Avin interface connects to ONLY the front left and right channel, so you can do whatever you want with the remaining rear and sub outputs from the HU. should be fairly easy.

im also thinking though, if you're already going through the trouble of wiring up an amp for the sub, why not just wire one up for the rest of the speakers as well? why not just do what Xpression did in the original post? that way you could have 4 channel output from the HU.

You can go either way, it just depends on what you want to end up doing.

Dnasty

Sorry if this has been asked before can you take an rca merger and combine front and back rca outs to the two on your most unit? Would that provide surround control?

Rossafuss

not sure, haven't tried it. i don't see why not?

Dnasty

Do you not notice a big difference without front and back channels? I've been contemplating doing this for a while but I think I'm still ultimately being held back by the dated software and processor they use on the 9" screen which is he one I really want. Not sure why hose units don't have he quad a9 like all these ones you guys are getting and they cost much more.

Rossafuss

i still have front channels, just not rear channels. I haven't noticed any difference though. As far as my young ears can tell, i don't notice any sound difference between the old command and new android HU, besides the equalizer adjustments of course. Sound quality is great. if you could merge both front and rear channels together, id imagine it would be even better, but i'm just guessing.

paperchase

You asked why not just power the system with all aftermarket external amplification. My thinking was there would be less wiring using the factory amps and, I've heard on the forum, that the paring of the factory amps and speakers improves considerably, with a new headunit. Another factor is I thought the system would be more efficient as I've never had my factory amps overheat or clip. A final consideration is that by keeping the MOST link in tact, I could at least power the CD changer drawer, although it would have no functionality. Still on the fence and open to ideas.

I have located a 5.1 Droid headunit from a China distributor on alibaba at a price where I am now willing to roll the dice despite my reservations regarding quality. I'd feel better purchasing on ebay, but the savings is considerable.

paperchase

Is there a particular cable that's needed to use the factory GPS antenna as opposed to the one that is provided with the Droid headunit? I know there is a different cable needed for radio antenna which I have sourced, but I'm wondering about GPS...and any other connectors I may need which aren't apparent.

Thanks!

Dnasty

I asked this question earlier on in this post I believe but users are saying you lose power and functionality of the cd tray even with the most adapter. I was hoping to retain power as well.

Xpresion

Hi mate, Stay clear from the 9" screen (8.8") to be exact. I already ordered one and mucked around with it. apart from looking good, the unit itself was a phoney. non of the hardware specs were true.

There are 2 9" units going around. I tested the one with the Single din rear housing which seem to have (Joyying) hardware inside.

here is what i found:

CONS:
Coretex A7 processor vs A9 (A7 is crap when compared to the A9)
Ram not at advertised
Rom not as advertised
Bluetooth OBD is impossible (must use Wifi OBD2) so you now have to pick or choose (OBD or internet tethering)
No reset button ( i had to open the unit and provision one on the PCB)
No Micro SD card slots. (only limited to the 2x USB cables)
Externally processed DVR


One micro SD card slot found inside the unit! so you can open up the unit / void your warranty and place a 32GB card in there which i guess you could update its contents by uploading to it using USB device.


PROS:
Nice sleek looking unit and i really liked the wide screen.
Better canbuss interface, manged to see radio stations / volume / CD track # on the dash MFD (multi function display)

Xpresion

No that will not work and most likely will cause signal distortion.

You can split the signal, however merging them wont achieve anything apart from possible signal distortion, and at the end of the day the MOST controller is programmed to receive STEREO signal input via LEFT and RIGHT RCA. it then encodes that signal to all optical fiber channels. which then your factory amp will decode again and send STEREO sound to all 4 speakers. not surround sound.

in order to get surround wound with the MOST, a new controller is required with 4x RCA inputs (non exist). which by then you will want to have subwoofer control. and this then means you will need a new Most controller with 5x or 6x RCA inputs. again, (non exist)

Xpresion

Its actually about the same amount of work, you will have to run the FM Radio cable to the new unit anyways so the trouble of removing the interior to get the cable from the back to the front is inevitable.

all you then need is:
6M power / Canbuss loom.
3 pairs of 5m quality RCA cables and make sure to route them AWAY from any thick RED wires.

The rest is just wiring in the boot which there is plenty of room for if you remove the Factory navigation cradle and factory amp. a few hours work and the system will be properly connected.




Look at the first page mate, everything should be there.

The Power is there, however the COMAND is the unit that tells the CD changer when to open and when to close. its a very silly thing really. I even tried changing the cars Audio configuration using STAR in hope that the changer will open up without the COMAND. however that produced no positive outcome.



I have already done this, further more, i Fitted a single Din pocket where the changer used to be and I am now able to operate the CD changer using an android application on my mobile phone. ( due to Bluetooth limitations of the Stereo unit. i am unable to operate it with the head unit) hopefully if i become more free and can invest more time in it i may be able to get the CD changer operation to be done via the head unit rather then a mobile phone.

Xpresion

That's quite interesting, looks like you may need the car to be reprogrammed so that its aware the command unit is no longer there. encase the Keyless go module happens to be trying to talk to it and waiting for a response.


Also are you using the MOST controller or using the 6m long cable?

Dnasty

Wow thanks.. i've yet to see anyone give feedback on these things. I knew they were all lying about having the a9 infact i've convinced many of the sellers to change that info to the a7. Didn't know they lied about the ram etc.. But the bluetooth and wifi is a deal breaker for me.. guess I will be going with the quadcore a9 7" like you have on your tutorial. Thanks a lot I was sceptical of this the entire time. Is there a specific one you can recommend or are all the ones labeled quad core a9 essentially the same? Also curious have you tried the $100 fiber optic units they are offering now... they claim they work.

Dnasty

Sorry to keep taking your time but is it possible you could explain how you were able to put a one din trey in there or what you purchased in order to accomplish this. I would be fine with having a tray that is able to be opened with an android app (actually seems cool).

00N8

6m and new amp

The radio antenna connection sucks now too, trying to find a new cable for it. Miss my keyless go system.

ethanasi

@Xpresion
I have been reading this(and others) thread and I have(almost) completed replacement of my AUDIO 50 APS in my 2004 W211.
Thank you very much for this thread and your valued input!

The only thing I am missing is the center speaker (I do not believe that there are other speakers in my car that do not work after replacement).

Is there any easy way to make it work? Without adding AMP or other hardware?

Thanks again!

00N8

Is the USB aux in supposed to power phones that plug into it? Mine does not.

Tebbyj

I have just purchased one of these Android units to go in my new C55. Car was an import from japan (really easy to import down hear in NZ) and already had an aftermarket panasonic in it when i got it.
Car originally had the full nav with fiber optic amp in the boot, so to install the aftermarket unit they have run a patch lead for speaker connections, how ever they haven't run one for the can bus connection. Am i right in thinking that i can just T into the can bus wires at the amp and run a lead up to the head unit to get the steering wheel controls working? provided i get the Can H and L around the right way.
If some one could upload a clear picture of the speaker extension lead can bus plug at the amp end(green and green/back) plugged into the can bus plug (brown and Brown/red) so i can see which way around the wires go that would be much appreciated.

Rossafuss

Xpresion, Can you quickly walk through the antenna connections to the AMP in the trunk?! i noticed when i connected my antenna patch cable a while back it ONLY worked when i disconnected the antenna IN (to the amp). Meaning my antenna is NOT amplified.

Sure enough when digging through info in STAR, My antenna is NOT being amplified. and its very noticeable. My station quality is noticeably diminished since installing this aftermarket system.

This is important info to clear up for anyone else doing this mod.

00N8

I wonder if this is my problem too? Antenna is pretty useless now.

Rossafuss

Still waiting on the XDA link to the "hardware modification" to "unlock" the potential of these units that Xpresion mentioned.