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Sound is quite good. Had no HK amp, just a normal AMP at the back.
Havent tried the special HK cable.
No cutting or splicing required for radio installation.
Only needed that when hooking up power for reverse cam to reverse light.
Thanks. May be a dumb question - but is there a guide on how to hook up the wires when bypassing the stock HK amp?
Anyway, i got a w211 e500 from 2005 with the aps 50 command unit.
I'm going to buy the headunit in the OP and the cables mentioned in the OP. Do i need any other cables?
Now, for my main question. I need a new amp but know nothing about amps. My budget is around 200 usd for the amp. All i want is to run all my oem speakers and the headunit with some decent sound. I'm really just looking for a good way to play spotify via the unit or bluetooth. All the other stuff is just extra fun.
I found a couple of amps. Can you guys help me choose one? Preferably from a UK or other European site since i live in sweden.
So... There we have some amps. Help me pick any good amp that helps me Power the unit and all my oem speakers with some good sound for around 200 usd or less. Im not an audiophile but i want a good sound. For reference, in my Audi a4 i had oem speakers with the Concert II headunit. I thought that was a good sound so anything better than that is a win.
Wanting to do this but are there any of the quad core units that put out the rated wattage to the 4 channels. I have a sub and 1600 watt amp in the trunk so I am not very concerned about the bass but I don't want the interior speakers to suffer greatly. I don't believe I have the hk amp as I have a base w219 csl500 2006. It has the disk changer up front so I think it still does have the fiber optics though.
Wanting to do this but are there any of the quad core units that put out the rated wattage to the 4 channels. I have a sub and 1600 watt amp in the trunk so I am not very concerned about the bass but I don't want the interior speakers to suffer greatly. I don't believe I have the hk amp as I have a base w219 csl500 2006. It has the disk changer up front so I think it still does have the fiber optics though.
I think the HK has factory subs.
Easiest is to check boot left side, has a compartment where the navi/COMAND unit and tuner is stored.
when you take the entire inner left side panel of the boot off you should see the stack.
That can be removed with a 10mm socket.
Then you find the actual amp behind a vertical devided, attached again with 3 10mm socket screws.
If it is basic it is unbranded, the HK ones I assume have some branding.
For me the sound bypassing the amp is quite adequate. But if you need more just add a new 4 channel amp.
I think the HK has factory subs.
Easiest is to check boot left side, has a compartment where the navi/COMAND unit and tuner is stored.
when you take the entire inner left side panel of the boot off you should see the stack.
That can be removed with a 10mm socket.
Then you find the actual amp behind a vertical devided, attached again with 3 10mm socket screws.
If it is basic it is unbranded, the HK ones I assume have some branding.
For me the sound bypassing the amp is quite adequate. But if you need more just add a new 4 channel amp.
Cheers
Which unit do you have? I've looked at so many at this point all quoting different specs for the same device it seems. Ive been trying to find out what the sub preamp out voltage is on these things and i've heard anywhere from 50 to about 5 so i'm a little bit wary. Is this essentially the same as the quad core that you guys are talking about? http://www.ebay.com/itm/301842859211?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Which unit do you have? I've looked at so many at this point all quoting different specs for the same device it seems. Ive been trying to find out what the sub preamp out voltage is on these things and i've heard anywhere from 50 to about 5 so i'm a little bit wary. Is this essentially the same as the quad core that you guys are talking about? Android Quad Core Car 2Din CD DVD Stereo GPS OBD2 for Mercedes Benz E Class W211 | eBay
I have quad core from AliExpress. Don't use any other amp (original or aftermarket). No idea what the pre-amp voltage actually is. Where would I measure that ?
I have quad core from AliExpress. Don't use any other amp (original or aftermarket). No idea what the pre-amp voltage actually is. Where would I measure that ?
It's probably only relevant to anyone wanting to hook up some subs and an amp in their trunk but you can probably measure it at the sub rca out from the headunit. On a sidenote I was looking at ali express and they have one unit on there that has 2gigs of ram was wondering if anyone had used this all of the others i've seene have only had 1 gig of ram.
Something like this would be good at driving the HK speakers and sub. **note this example is just for the sake of power level and specs so you get an idea of what to shop for**
I never heard of that brand but you guys in USA seem to have ALLOT of other brands haha.
If you find something with similar specs but by a from branded breed then jump all over it. cheap powerfull amps is the last thing you want to invest money in.
I'm sure this one will be good as they have to meet standards and all the power rating is claimed in RMS .
I was talking non RMS in the thread, so really with the above AMP you just double that and now you find yourself close to the level of power i was recommending in the thread.
5 Channel Alpine amp. not as powerfull but should get you moving and this will allow you to retain Surround sound.
I'm a noob to this forum, but have found you guys very cool. I'm getting going with my installation and going with Option 2, but I'm a bit confused so, while I'm waiting on all the parts to arrive, it's a good time to get unconfused.
So I have the head unit and 6M cable (and 3 other shorter harnesses with RCA and Canbus box) because my 08 E has the HK system. Questions are:
1 - Can a backup camera be hooked up in this setup you have documented here, and if so, how?
2 - Is there any way to get the 6 CD changer to work, or is it DOA in this setup?
3 - Are these other cables useless and can be tossed?
Great threads. I have been following this site for a while now, and have used the information found here, many times. Thanks!
Now it's the time for me to ask a question...
I have a SLK200 (R171) 2004, with the old HU. Think it is AUDIO 20 APS system. Pretty horrible sound, and works very bad. See picture ( I know the car is very dirty - just bought it :o)
Therefore I just ordered a Quod Core Android 4.4.4 unit, but would like to know if I need a external GPS antenna, or cables, since my car didn't have the GPS before? Also do I need any other extras, or is all the extras mentioned in this thread reserved/restricted to cars born with premium systems?
Also I am considering getting the OBD2 Bluetooth module, but would like to ask if this unit will be visible when mounted? If yes, I think it would not be so nice.
I've been researching these things on ali epress for quite a while now after finding this forum and The best one I have seen spec wise seems to be this one (only issue is it runs 4.4.2 while all the other runs 4.4.4.)http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2G-RA...514003373.html ......... it has everything mentioned in op's post but 2 gigs of ram instead of one. Was wondering if anyone has looked into this their sales people don't seem to reply. Another big conern before I do this mod is what are the subwoofer preamps on these devices or are they simply novelty items... I have 2 12s in the trunk running a 1600 watt rmp amp so yes it hits hard and it's currently wired to the shelf speakers in the trunk with a line out converter. I was hoping to be able to run the rcas from the subamp to the headunit like ive done with pioneers etc in the past but am not really sure if it would be an increase in sound quality? I've asked a few sellers if the device has onboard woofer controls like most devices do with subwoofer outs but no definite answer some no, some say yes, some say idunno. Would really like some info on this before having to hook it up in my car and find out.
(Can be used for other models around the same era as the W211)
Table of contents:
explaining the concept of upgrading the system
Head unit info
Parts required for installation
Installation info
The COMAND Units in the W211 are ancient now and do not offer much digital essence in the car. (it’s not 2002 anymore) also Navigation portion are beginning to show their age, From DVD drives beginning to fail to CD stacker door motors failing.
The head unit comes with: 1x Canbus box (deals with steering wheel communications with the car, as well as switching of and on the unit and finally lets the unit go into reverse camera mode when you place the shifter in R)
GPS modem with 3M cable (enough to run it under the kick panel and stick it on the passenger side of the windshield.
8GB Micro SD card with IGO MAPS for your country (brilliant OFFLINE navigation software)
1x External microphone, (the unit has a built in mic, but should you want to run a second one closer to you, you can)
**note, no head unit can work well with the built in Optical Fiber amp. Once you go after market, you need to be prepared to remove the optical fiber amp and either run another amp OR power all your speakers from the new head unit**
Extras that you must order (Ask the seller for them)
IF your car has Harman Kardon logic 7 Stereo (COMAND NTG1), OR if you have amp in the boot and insert your navigation CD in the boot
*6M long speaker / power cable (AkA amplifier Bypass cable) (this will bypass your original amplifier, and provide power to the new head unit and power the amplifier for your radio antenna). **note this cable will not power the subwoofer, nor the front centre speaker, nor the 2 parcel shelf speakers, just the 4 door speakers and the small tweeters**
*6M long Antenna cable (because the factory amp had the antenna connected to it, now you must run this connection to the new unit at the front).
in order to remove the stock AMP, you need to remove the cradle for the GPS DVD Player and undo the fuse box mounts. (This will give you bit more room to work with in order to remove the amp.
The amp is held in by 3 10mm bolts, 2 on the side and one between the quarter panel and boot cavity.
Completely unplug the old amp and connect the corresponding plugs from the 6m cables.
Those extras are all plug and play and will have the unit fully operating in your car. END
EXTRAS (options for the unit you can buy)
DVR camera (front facing USB camera that allows you to record as you drive)
3G USB Modem (place a sim card in it and have internet all the time)
Digital / HD TV (for watching digital / HD TV)
OBD2 Bluetooth module (allows the view of car diagnostics /info on the head unit via (app Torque)
Reverse Camera (need I explain?) END
This section here is for the audiophiles / radio heads
The HK stereo has 12 speakers all up.
4 Door speakers, 6.5”
4 Door tweeters 1.5” (They are automatically powered by the 6.5”on the same door)
1 Front centre speaker 4” maybe less?
2 Rear parcel shelf speakers 4”
1 Dual voice coil subwoofer 10”
Running the unit as is (with just the 6m amp bypass cable) will give you adequate sound levels, however because the car had Harman Kardon stereo in it, the speakers require more juice to operate efficiently and give that nice sound you previously had with the original amp, ALSO, there are a few speakers still not being powered by the head unit. Why? Because the unit simply cannot supply that much power, the old AMP’s IC alone was 10 times the size of the new units combined amp + processor IC. (Integrated Circuit)
To resolve this, we need to install a new amp(s) in the boot:
At this point, you have 2 options.
#1 Run 2 AMPS, one for the Subwoofer (mono block AMP), and one for the remaining 7 speakers in the car. (Surround sound)
#2 Run one high powered 4 channel AMP (200+WATTS per channel) and run 2 channels to the subwoofer, 1 channel to power all LEFT speakers of the car and 1 channel to power all RIGHT speakers of the car. (Stereo sound)
**note, unless you’ll be watching DVD movies on your new head unit, you won’t otherwise be experiencing any surround sound from the MP3’s you download / music you stream on Bluetooth, because they are all based on 2 channel Stereo output**
From this point I will be showing / explaining my setup which is based on option #2 as mentioned above.
* AMP: 4 channel, 4x300W = 1200W TOTAL. ~600WRMS
* 2x High to low converters (converting all 4 channels from the unit to RCA outputs)
* 1x Splitter box, (provides signal for tweeters and mid-range speakers) will be used for front centre and rear parcel shelf speakers.
* 1X automotive Amp fuse
* Appropriate gauge wires for powering the AMP etc.
LETS BEGIN:
Since the battery is in the boot, powering the amp will be easy.
Make sure you use an inline fuse for the + and DO NOT connect the ground to the battery! Follow the lead from the negative terminal and you will see a black box! That box filters out electrical noise, so make sure you connect the ground for the amp on the part of the black box that is connected to the body.
If you look at the 6M speaker / power cable. You will see a black 4 pin plug with thick RED, BROWN and a thin blue wire. (That blue wire is a positive remote trigger for the antenna amp. Splice into that to trigger the new amplifier into powering on. OR run a 5m long trigger cable from the new head unit as it has an amp trigger output.
Connect all 4 channels to the Converters so you have 4 RCA outputs in total, 2 for the FRONT, and 2 for the REAR. (Make sure you adjust the gain on the converters) (Don’t set them too high or else you will experience signal clipping which sounds like distortion)
Connect them to the AMP accordingly.
Connect the 2 REAR outputs of your AMP to the 2 inputs of your subwoofer (adjust the amp accordingly (set it to Low pass filter and set the Hz limit at 80-100Hz) anything higher and this will cause the subwoofer to play vocals (BIG no no!)
Connect the 2 FRONT outputs to the corresponding side of the car.
Front right channel connected to all the right speakers of the car (excluding the parcel shelf and front centre).
Front LEFT channel connected to all the LEFT speakers of the car.
from the LEFT output, run a new wire to the splitter box, and from the splitter box distribute the power to the FRONT centre speaker on the (Tweeter output) and REAR parcel shelf speakers on the (woofer output). (FYI, woofer on the splitter box just means mid range/ vocals and not thumping bass)
the reason why I set the front centre speaker to tweeter and not woofer is because I began to hear it crackling. And I have a feeling it’s smaller than the back 2.
That’s it!,
Set the gain and bass on the subwoofer high on the amp. Then go on the head unit and adjust the FADE effect so you have most of the sound FRONT bias, this means the sub won’t be as loud. If you wish to increase the sub level, change the FADE so it’s more REAR bias.
Extras#2 this is if you wish to retain your factory GPS module. This will result in a cleaner looking interior as you won’t have an ugly black GPS antenna stuck to your front windshield.
You need the following 3 cables to make the appropriate cable which will run from the boot to the new head unit. It’s self-explanatory as the plugs require simple common scenes.
Just curious about the step two you mentioned you said that the new amp will power all the speakers in the car... with the head unit still running that fiber optic extension to the factory amp? Or do you just remove the factory amp all together? In which case if you plan on using a second amp do you even need the fiber optic extender? I'm thinking about doing the initial head unit and running off that and possibly upgrading my speakers with an additional amp later but if I can just throw in new amp now I would be fine with that. I am really not happy with how the stock system sounds.
I’m installing a Chinese aftermarket radio unit on my MBW219 but I have some questions / doubts regarding connections. The originalsound system has fiber optic (Comand NTG1) and I must rewire in order to makethe new unit working. 1 ) The seller send me bypass cables kit shownbelow which as far as I understood is an hybrid because it both for Mercedesand BMW. I numbered all connections it has. Should I connect only 1, 2 and 3? the other ones (4,5,6) are for BMW only?
2 ) Then I should connect: 3 with A, 2 with B, 1 with C. Regarding this last connection: I have to forget about two orange fiber optic wires (they will not work anymore). In original cable, aside fiber optic wires, I have four thin cables yellow, brown, brown/red, pink. They must be connected with two thin blue cable of new extension cable bypass. Is it correct?
I've been researching these things on ali epress for quite a while now after finding this forum and The best one I have seen spec wise seems to be this one (only issue is it runs 4.4.2 while all the other runs 4.4.4.)http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2G-RA...514003373.html ......... it has everything mentioned in op's post but 2 gigs of ram instead of one. Was wondering if anyone has looked into this their sales people don't seem to reply. Another big conern before I do this mod is what are the subwoofer preamps on these devices or are they simply novelty items... I have 2 12s in the trunk running a 1600 watt rmp amp so yes it hits hard and it's currently wired to the shelf speakers in the trunk with a line out converter. I was hoping to be able to run the rcas from the subamp to the headunit like ive done with pioneers etc in the past but am not really sure if it would be an increase in sound quality? I've asked a few sellers if the device has onboard woofer controls like most devices do with subwoofer outs but no definite answer some no, some say yes, some say idunno. Would really like some info on this before having to hook it up in my car and find out.
Anyone know where to find a splitter box like the one shown?
I’m installing a Chinese aftermarket radio unit on my MBW219 but I have some questions / doubts regarding connections. The originalsound system has fiber optic (Comand NTG1) and I must rewire in order to makethe new unit working. 1 ) The seller send me bypass cables kit shownbelow which as far as I understood is an hybrid because it both for Mercedesand BMW. I numbered all connections it has. Should I connect only 1, 2 and 3? the other ones (4,5,6) are for BMW only?
2 ) Then I should connect: 3 with A, 2 with B, 1 with C. Regarding this last connection: I have to forget about two orange fiber optic wires (they will not work anymore). In original cable, aside fiber optic wires, I have four thin cables yellow, brown, brown/red, pink. They must be connected with two thin blue cable of new extension cable bypass. Is it correct?
thanks a lot
I am also looking at doing this upgrade on a w219 few questopms how do you know which am is back there do I have to pull up all the carpets in my trunk or is there an easier way. Also which unit did you opt for?
I am a little confused on how this works,, if I plan on putting in a new amp and possibly upgrading the interior speakers do I still need to run fiber optic bypass cables to the stock amp? or do i just remove the stock amp and put my new amp in?
I am also looking at doing this upgrade on a w219 few questopms how do you know which am is back there do I have to pull up all the carpets in my trunk or is there an easier way. Also which unit did you opt for?
I have as OEM the Comand NTG1 which has also navigation, dvd reader, mobile phone tools (which is now completely useless). If you car has the same, you amplifier should be exactly the same. Otherwise you should check in left side of the trunk, removing bottom carpet (it is not fixed), left side cover (just two plastic clips), remove dvd navication tower, fuse box, and finally release the "hidden" amp which is fastened by 3 bolts (10 mm).
I chose this radio unit. Perhaps I am going to sell my car in 1 year / 1 year and 1/2 and I do not want to spend a lot of money. http://it.aliexpress.com/item/1024-6...525111328.html
Just some little lack of information with it. I'm still waiting confirmation from the seller to understand the correct connection to do on the rear of radio unit.
I am a little confused on how this works,, if I plan on putting in a new amp and possibly upgrading the interior speakers do I still need to run fiber optic bypass cables to the stock amp? or do i just remove the stock amp and put my new amp in?
If you are changing OEM radio unit like me: NO, because fiber optics are running from amp to radio unit to navigation etc. and all these equipment. are replaced by new radio unit which will work directly with car speakers.
From amplifier to speakers there are common wires (see connector A). In case you want to add a new amp to replace the OEM amp not used anymore you can connect it without too much problems
If you are changing OEM radio unit like me: NO, because fiber optics are running from amp to radio unit to navigation etc. and all these equipment. are replaced by new radio unit which will work directly with car speakers.
From amplifier to speakers there are common wires (see connector A). In case you want to add a new amp to replace the OEM amp not used anymore you can connect it without too much problems
Oh ok that is what I was thinking but I guess I will be needing some 6m speaker wire cables to go from the headunit to the the amp? Also I was told that all of the fiber optic devices in teh car is connected so if I remove the amp does that throw off the entire system? I was still looking at one of these china units because they fit so flush in the stock mercedes head unit and the only thing i've seen with a 9 inch screen. Was hoping to retain the canbus/steering controls. Also if it is as simple as replacing the amp why is the op using both factory and aftermarket amp or did I miss read something, seems like hes using many converters. BTW this is the unit I've been looking at. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/8-8-A...603628957.html
Oh ok that is what I was thinking but I guess I will be needing some 6m speaker wire cables to go from the headunit to the the amp? Also I was told that all of the fiber optic devices in teh car is connected so if I remove the amp does that throw off the entire system? I was still looking at one of these china units because they fit so flush in the stock mercedes head unit and the only thing i've seen with a 9 inch screen. Was hoping to retain the canbus/steering controls. Also if it is as simple as replacing the amp why is the op using both factory and aftermarket amp or did I miss read something, seems like hes using many converters. BTW this is the unit I've been looking at. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/8-8-A...603628957.html
If you have fiber optic system you need 6 mt extension / bypass cable and usually every seller have it available. In this case you new radio unit will work directly with the speakers and OEM amplifier will not work anymore (together with OEM navigation).
Usually every aftermarket radio comes with can bus in order to retain steering controls.
I checked the unit you have been looking at. Cool! I suggest you to contact the seller to ask for info about connection and if they have available for their radio unit 6 mt extension / bypass cable.
I'm planning to finish (hopefully) installation during this weekend.
I'll keep you posted
If someone can post the exact directions / wiring for bypass (power from radio only) that would be very helpful.
Originally Posted by edo75
If you have fiber optic system you need 6 mt extension / bypass cable and usually every seller have it available. In this case you new radio unit will work directly with the speakers and OEM amplifier will not work anymore (together with OEM navigation).
Usually every aftermarket radio comes with can bus in order to retain steering controls.
I checked the unit you have been looking at. Cool! I suggest you to contact the seller to ask for info about connection and if they have available for their radio unit 6 mt extension / bypass cable.
I'm planning to finish (hopefully) installation during this weekend.
I'll keep you posted
Can't seem to get it to power up. Not sure if it's the cable or the unit yet. Need to pick up a volt meter to sort it out. Any body have any other things I can check?
edit: found my fix here
Originally Posted by ukdave
thx; the legend returns!
Red Can bus decoder box connected. It looks like the issue was actually or both I hadn't connected the green wire from the harness which connects to the fibre/copper bracket that was previously connected to the Becker amp. As soon as I plugged this in it powered on, shamone.
So i'll continue with some basic tests and then properly route the harness and antenna cables and get the HU fitted in the front.
Are there any other cables that need connecting on the Amp end or head Unit end?
(I have the HK Logic 7 system and will get a professional to fit a proper amp at a later date. )
Can't seem to get it to power up. Not sure if it's the cable or the unit yet. Need to pick up a volt meter to sort it out. Any body have any other things I can check?
edit: found my fix here
Hi,
Had similar issues originally. In my case was the 6m power/speaker harness.
It has a fuse in the 12V line, the wire connection inside the fuse box had the soldier track detached from the pcb and lost connection depending on how the cable was bend. When i first measured it seemed ok because the way I was holding the cable.
Also worth while just to check that fuse in the cable.
01-17-2016, 06:40 PM
