naghtan

Dear pals, I'm having the Error code P0064 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 3), I'm trying to find it, but really can't find it... I thought it is under the car, around back seats? thanks.

Plutoe

Without a specific VIN you have a R & L sensor before and after the Cat--put the car on a lift, put your finger to the wind and look up---wada you see besides pipes!!

naghtan

I need to put all my VIN code?

look I think it is the piece mark as 450. But how i can acces it? only way it is from under?

Plutoe

Look your making more out of this than the part is worth in time spent playing around looking for the part---Like I indicated hours ago---put the car on a lift look up!!

Now if you want to crawl under the car on a driveway or lawn fine,but you will be back whining that you can't see the part or how do I get a tool up there to remove the sensor or I am afraid the car will fall on me or what will my neighbors say about the body under a car!!

naghtan

Thanks! but If I have a lift, perhaps I will visual inspect... jajaja And yes, I read here usually these sensor are very difficult to replace, not so much space...

At last, Im street mechanic's! Neighbours already know i will die one day by my car while i was under it!

jammgm

I'm getting the P0064 code for the bank 2 sensor 3 oxygen sensor.
Can someone tell me if this is the up or downstream sensor on the driver's side?

cahido123

Did you can find the right sensor?, because I have the same code P0064, and I'm looking for the right sensor too.

jammgm

Bank 2 is on the driver's side and if I recall correctly, sensor 3 is the downstream one after the CAT.
The only difference between the up and downstream sensors is the length of the wire.. One is short and one is long based on where they plug into the car.
The code could be the sensor itself or a dirty connection where the sensor plugs into the car due to age.

When I replaced mine, it didn't fix the problem. I was getting this code along with a fuel injector code and one of the cam adjust solenoids all on the same side of the engine.. Bank 2.
The solenoild had a crack on the plastic tube where the wire plugs in so I started with replacing that.
The strange thing was was once I replaced the cam adjust solenoid, the other 2 codes went away so it ended up the sensor wasn't bad after all.
I also had the intake manifold repaired to correct the POS plastic broken pivot arm that controls the runner flaps and starting getting codes for the some of the cylinder coil packs after the repair.
Being the car is a 2007, I figured I had bad connections because the connectors were disturbed due to the repair so I cleaned all the connections and lubed with dielectric grease and all the codes disappeared.
You could probably start with checking and cleaning the connector on it, clear the code, and see if it comes back. If it does, then replace it.

cetialpha5

The downstream sensors rarely go bad. Usually just a damaged wire or connector. They're there basically to tell your cats are shot, they don't really wear out because normally they're just exposed to a clean exhaust.

If you repaired the intake manifold levers, you should also change out the oil breather cover and separator. There's a kit on FCPeuro. Basically when those are bad, it allows oil to enter the intake instead of just the vapors which gums up the flaps and eventually the flaps break off and damage the engine. Which is why MB normally just replaces the intake instead of repairing it. Those levers are designed to break when those flaps get gummed up which is a sign the intake should be replaced. I just replaced my intake with a new one, around $600+ although you can get a reman on eBay for about $350. That only had a one year warranty though and the new one was lifetime.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...kit-oem-515810

jammgm

I'll check into that breather cover and seperator kit.. thanks.
When we pulled the manifold off, the runner flaps were nice and clean and not broken I attributed it to the car having low mileage.. ~75k.
I chose to repair the manifold versus replacing it because the new ones I found came with the same POC plastic pivot arm so why put the same problem back on for $600 plus the labor only to break again.
I have a friend who's a full time mechanic and does work on the side and did the repair which cost me $500, parts and labor.

cetialpha5

That's interesting. Must really be the breather and separator. Lots of people report replacing the manifold in the 80-140k range. I believe the breather/separator is supposed to keep the oil out of the intake and just allow oil vapors but if they go bad, then it's the oil that gums up the flaps. I just figured if you replace it, you won't have to worry about it for another 80-140k. I also read in one spot that it had been redesigned. Not sure if the redesign fixes the problem though. My pivot arms/rods weren't broken, but you couldn't really move it easily and when you did, it didn't move back on its own.

jammgm

I repaired the manifold around 2 years ago and couldn't find a new OEM one with the metal pivot arm at that time so I went with the repair kit.
I never knew this about the breather and separator causing the runner flaps to fail over time but will definitely replace them.
Thanks for the information,

cetialpha5

It's a Pierburg intake and FCPeuro sells it new, around $630+ now. They were OEM to Mercedes. You can also get a rebuilt one eBay, around $350, but only a one year warranty vs lifetime at FCP. Look for RMT or Rebuild Master Tech.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-intake-manifold-replacement-kit-pierburg-516475

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-E350-2006-2011-M272-V6-Engine-Modified-Intake-Manifold-Gasket-Set/192758184793