Jeff_S7

2005 E-320 w/170k miles. Had the standard "Brake - Visit Workshop" message a few months ago. Replaced the switch. Still had the message. Two days ago, I got the red Brake warning message, and press pedal to the floor. As all previous posters can attest to, that really wakes you up. Got the car stopped successfully. After a few phone calls, I started the car back up. The brake system made it's groan for about 20 seconds, and it worked normally. I babied it on back roads and got it home.
I called the dealer, who said I'm 10 months out of the 10 year warranty. If it's the SBC, they want around $2k to fix it. I found the part several places online for under $900. I called the local independent import mechanic who said he would install the part for $250, but he cautioned me that the part may have to be coded/programmed for my car. I don't recall reading that on any previous posts. Is that a valid concern?
Do these symptoms sound like more troubleshooting should be done, or is it highly likely to be the SBC pump?
I'm trying to avoid the dealer, as I don't trust them at all.
I welcome all opinions as to how best to get my w211 repaired.

E500 AMG Sport

Order one of these first & see if "resets" your SBC unit...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBD-SBC-rese...550987&vxp=mtr

Jeff_S7

Bummer - they're all from China. Even the seller with expedited shipping takes 7-10 days to get here. I checked on Amazon and they do not sell these.

kajtek1

Have the car scanned to find what the real problem is.
Your symptoms don't match the " exceed limit" experience posted by others.

mcleantmw

My SBC was replaced several years ago by my MB Dealer under warranty. I recall that the SBC and some of the other components when replaced require the vehicle computer to be updated and/or aligned. That's the risk of using a third party repair shop for some of the repairs.....they don't have the MB system equipment to do it.

Jeff_S7

Yes, regretfully, I'll be taking it to the dealer.
I'll report back afterwards to make the thread complete.

cetialpha5

See if you can order the part from a place like huskerparts.com and see if the local dealer will install it. A few have said that their local dealer will install a part you bring them as long as it's a Mercedes part. Then you just pay them for the install.

Also I don't think that reset tool will do you any good. I think it just makes the warning message go away when the count is exceeded, but it sounds like you have actual pump failure, not just the counter going over a certain amount.

kajtek1

Other option is to nag the dealer about matching other dealer price.
Might not succeed 100% or the time, but lately my local dealer sold me MB coolant way cheaper than autohusaz would.

wjcandee

Presumably any indy shop who has the MB computer can code the unit.

For those who have the computer, does anybody know the procedure for coding the unit to the car? Is it a standard routine on the machine (like the "Turn SBC On", "Turn SBC Off" sequence)? Or does it require some expertise (like reprogramming the SBC counter)?

Is there a work card for replacing the SBC, and does it have the Star procedure on it?

I might know where I can borrow one for my local guy.

cetialpha5

Someone else might actually know, but my guess would be maybe the WIS DVD which you could find on ebay for around $10 or sign up for Mercedes Startek at $19 for a day and then download as many pdfs as you can in 24 hours.

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/subscribe.jsp

wjcandee

Thanks. Very helpful. Like I say, I have access to the computer but limited facility with using it.

Jeff_S7

There's a very respected inde-mechanic in my area. He has the tools to read Mercedes codes. I've been to him before. He REALLY seemed like he did not want to touch this issue. He's the one who said the thing about coding/programming.
I got the dealer to come down $300 on the part. But they still want around $700 labor vs the $250 the inde-shop quoted.
I had to get an appt to take to dealer, which is tues @10:30am. So I'll be w/o the car this week also, being a short holiday week.

Jeff_S7

Quick update - dealer says it's the reservoir. $1586 parts & labor.

wjcandee

Yikes. Do you mean the accumulator? They're killing you. http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...cumulator.html

konigstiger

Reservoir = accumulator. Have independent replace, see if they allow you to supply part, and confirm they have MB DAS, system needs to be bled.

Oh_boy

The price difference is not much between the SBC unit and an Accumulator. The SBC unit comes with an accumulator. Why would one just replace the accumulator? It seems to me that for the few extra dollars, you'd be much better off with a fresh unit.

wjcandee

Because a new accumulator is $182.33 at partsgeek.com.

And for what it's worth, the reservoir isn't necessarily the accumulator. The reservoir is the thing you pour the fluid into. But $1500 to replace either one borders on insanity, so I have to think it's like $900 for a refurb SBC unit plus labor. A lot of dealers are selling the refurb SBC.

And you're not "coding" anything when you replace the SBC. There's just an option among the commands in XENTRY to tell all the computers in the car that care, that you just replaced the SBC unit. Click. Whirr. Done.

konigstiger

Correct, but as it pertains to hydraulic unit accumulator is considered pressure reservoir.

wjcandee

Absolutely! He just said "reservoir", so I wanted to make sure that we were all on the same page. But $1500 has to buy you a change of the whole thing (with a reman), no?

konigstiger

Absolutely!

rog2961

Can we just disconnect SBC to depressurize the accumulator? Would a strap wrench work to take it off? I've read that the acumulator should be swapped out before before failure. Possibly the lower pressure in the accumulator causes the sbc pump to run more often? I recently did a brake fluid change and the buzzing has increased quite a bit after the fact.

kajtek1

NO NO NO
Putting a wrench on something that has potential for high pressure was proved to have deadly potential.
Even hydraulics don't have much energy, this is not something I would do intentionally even with my industrial experiences.
Side note, that warning multiplies by a 1000 when it comes to pneumatic drives.
I am scuba diver and have seen on couple of occasion what 1500psi of air decompressing without control can do to neighborhood. Not a pretty picture