cmriv

Wow. This is some blasphemy!!!!
You probably need a airmatic pump for airmatic issue but there is a test that tells you if compressor is operating properly. Until you do the test I wouldn't worry about a strut being bad. Because even if you replace all the air struts, and your pump doesn't operate properly you are still at square 1.
Coolant level sensor/switch is spliced in series with washer fluid level switch.... Replace sensor on bottom of coolant tank.
rear sun shade, i would pay a dealership to lower sunshade with a sds and never touch it again. Get some tint on that thing.
Map lights may be a OCP (overhead control panel) issue. Again, sds will tell what is going on.
Your 550 misfiring on two cylinders and the dealership telling you, you probably have a bad injector, does not explain why two cylinders are misfiring.
Whoever lead you in the direction of a CPS should delete their account. If it were a M112/113 then yeah maybe a cps, but only if it stalls hot and or cel is on and there is a code for the cps.... return cps and get your money back.

My advice: Hook fuel guage up and duck tape it to windshield and drive around for a few days.
From my experience with your issues performance wise you either have a intermittent faulty fuel pump assembly. Your fuel pump relay may be sticking at times.

You have a bad cylinder head....

Customer complaints of misfire, rough running and diminished performance on vehicles with 272 or 273 engines. Check Engine Light CEL (MIL) might be on. Compression and or leak down test results show values out of specification.


Replace affected cylinder head on engines up to engine numbers as indicated below. For similar conditions with engines outside of the serial number range, thorough investigation must be conducted including bore scoping combustion chamber for evidence of valve seat wear. Otherwise, claims could be rejected if the origin of the problem is not properly determined and not confirmed with evidence.

Engine 273 5.5L produced up to November 2009 – engine number 273.9xx 30 342934

Engine 273 4.6L produced up to August 2009 – engine number 273.9xx 30 328842

Engine 272 3.5L produced up to August 2009 – end engine number 272.9xx 31 322249

Engine 272 3.0L produced up to June 2009 – end engine number 272.9xx 31 267324

And or you have a bad ME. There is also another test you can do for that but I would check timing before any of that.

And he who told you everything else was good probably is yanking your chain considering you went to a benz dealership and left with only paying 200$ I'll tell you right now for your own sake, find someone who knows someone that knows another person that knows a thing or two about this product. Good luck!

cmriv

oh edit: if fuel pressure is good, and you have codes for certain cylinders, swap coils around and see if it moves. IF it does then you have bad coils. Number coils with a sharpie so you know what is what.... GL

scoobertdoo

They swapped coils and plugs, stayed on 4.
they wanted two more hours to swap injectors, at that point I said no.
I will replace the number 4 injector, and if that does not solve the issue, I can further DX the car. sometimes the car runs perfect if the injector starts working. They tested the electrical as well, no issues.

As for fuel pump, it was a bad ground in the rear fuse box. I hotwired a ground to the relay and it works great now. It looks gettho, but works flawless. 52PSI is what I got on the rail.


The air pump is bad, they did the dump and refill test, and the pump didnt get to green in the 40 seconds.

I replaced the coolant sensor, still says its low.

CPS was a bad suggestion, so I am told, but I paid to install it, $105. So I will leave it in. The noise in the engine bay is getting louder, and I have a feeling it is not the PS pump. In an old shop check the car had a noise coming from a part on the AC pump, they tried to change it, but the bolt broke, so it may need an AC pump. We shall see.

Thanks for the help, injector should be fixed by the weekend? so I hope.

scoobertdoo

What is a ME?

cmriv

Motor Electronics...aka engine computer.

If coolant message still appears that it is low you may need to erase the dtcs in front SAM.

Did you replace coolant thermostat or Coolant level switch?

You are capable I'm sure of replacing a injector yourself.... And I would presume as well that you have a sticking injector if in fact it's only cylinder 4 thats falling out.

By air pump do you mean Airmatic pump??? IF so glad to see you fix that first and foremost! Before dropping a bunch of coin on a strut.

Have someone press your rear sunshade button while you "force" it into the down position. Sometimes this works.

A/c compressor pulley bearing fried, very common problem. However there is a tool to counter hold pulley while loosening bolt. And i may be mistaken, but i think that pulley is reverse threaded on, so off is on and on is off.... tisk tisk, those compressors are outrageously priced

GL man, glad you got some things figured out!

scoobertdoo

I like the shade up, so that does not bother me.

AC might be due for a compressor, as the bolt is already broken, so the notes on mercedes paperwork says.

replaced the coolant level switch.

I may try to replace the injector myself, I ordered two, and if I have to take off both rails to do the job, I will do 4 and 5 for good measure. It cant be the head, because sometimes the issue stops, and the car runs perfect until restarted.

airmatic pump. Will get the new pump after I take care of the running issue and the very loud AC pump pulley.

cmriv

Well lucky you, thought you wanted it down.

Yea i mean there are ways to get that pulley off even if bolt is broken but thats another ordeal in itself.

if dtcs for cooling issue haven't been erased that may be the issue. I would check your ground for cooling level switch. That is strange you still get an error.

you will have to remove entire rail to do those injectors. you'll need a E10 socket and a pry bar. and some new o-rings. Replace all the o-rings though, not just the ones your replacing injectors for.

scoobertdoo

Crud, I need o-rings? Need to order them then...
How can I erase those codes without a starscan?

cmriv

ADVANCE OR autozone may be able to do it... if not them find a indy with some up to date equipment that can communicate with Merks....

yes to o rings.

FCPEuro

Advance will no longer provide that service

scoobertdoo

Other then $8 each at merc, where can I get the o-rings?

Also I reset the ECU with the tool, just an OBD reader thou, no change.

FCPEuro

For a set of of Uppers the part is shared with older Volvo's and made by Bosch. You'd need three of these kits and it shouldnt run you more than $13-14

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...sch-1287010704

For lowers, go Genuine

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...mer-0139979045

scoobertdoo

I replaced the injector, and it's doing the same exact thing.

scoobertdoo

Where is cylinder 4?

rodneypierce

wait, you are asking which cylinder is #4, but you say you replaced the injector in that cylinder? Im confused..

scoobertdoo

Yeah, so am I.
I replaced the passenger rear injector. The one the dealer told me is number 4. However after there was no change, I said to myself, if he was wrong about the injector, maybe he was wrong about where cylinder 4 was.

I wonder how much a new engine wire harness costs?

rodneypierce

standing at the front of the engine, the left bank is 1-4, right bank is 5-8

rodneypierce

I hate to sound like an ******* here man, but bottom line you need to take this car to a competent Mercedes dealer. Until you do that, you are just guessing. And these are not cars to just "guess" on.

scoobertdoo

I did, they told me it was an injector.

rodneypierce

I would take it to another. No way with everything you started with there is only one code, and "everything else is ok"

scoobertdoo

After spending $200 at the dealer, 200 on parts, 200 on a CPS, I am taking it to an indie who is going to diag for $90 no matter how long it takes him. I am giving him a chance on Wednesday, and see what he can do. Not paying $800 to benz to diagnose the issue.

Other codes, yes. Camshaft code. He said it will not cause this problem.

rodneypierce

Awesome! Very smart move. Unfortunately sometimes the dealer just wants to milk you for everything they can. Finding a good dealer or Indy is worth its weight in gold.

And I would think a camshaft position sensor could very well cause a misfire.

scoobertdoo

The dealer said the code was not an actual code yet.

cmriv

Wonder if dealership tried to flash "ME"... Ask your Indie if he has access to do so.


I can't say I have sympathy for you. Only because with all the money you have spent you could of from the jump taken it to a reliable dealership, and used all the money you've wasted this far on in depth diagnostics. Couple all of that with the fact you took it to Wal mart to get a oil change.............................. That's a really Jewish thing to do to your Mercedes.




So you have replaced injector #4, you and others have swapped coils around and it stays on number 4 still.

I looked at your VMI.... Your 550 has been through hell and back.


Evaporator has been replaced.... eeeeeek! that's besides the point but by looking at your vmi I'm understanding why this thing was so dirt cheap, mileage among other things.


Back on topic, your spark plugs were replaced in 2012 at 97k. Have you tried pulling spark plugs and inspecting them?

scoobertdoo

After driving it a week I think it is ECU related.
If I can drive it, restart it, and it runs perfect sometimes, I think it is the ECU.

No idea if they flashed the ME.
Oil change could be done by a child. Drain, replace plug, replace filter, fill.
Its the oil that is important, and that was the proper stuff.

Yeah, long list of repairs. Glad they were done.
If the plugs were shot, I would think two things, one merc would have told me, two it would be always a problem, and never stop.

Yeah, I am jewish, and embrace my cheapness.

In hind sight I should have gotten a E350 2011 certified preowned for $20,000 with unlimited mileage warranty.

My goal is still being under $3000 in repairs, and so far so good. Don't think an ECU and flash would cost that much.

The indie I am using is on mechanic computer by snap-on.