ESP Light, limp mode, and P0120
07-17-2016, 04:57 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
ESP Light, limp mode, and P0120
I've searched and read every thread I can find on the topic on the internet but I want to give a few more details to my situation to perhaps narrow the problem down further before I buy any parts.
I have a 2003 E320.
My ODBII reader gives me a P0120 and a N/A code. From what I've read, the issue is the throttle position sensor. People have claimed to solve it by replacing the gas pedal which houses a sensor or the throttle body. Being in Canada, ordering these parts are pricey and I don't have that much money to drop on this car so ideally I can narrow down the problem before buying anything.
Here's how the problem developed:
I first experienced the ESP light when I was downshifting to pass someone. The car jerked once and then went into limp mode. I think I was pushing down the pedal quite a bit. But I turned the corner, restarted the car (off and on) and it was good to drive again. I thought it was just a temporary thing but it happened again a couple days later, and I realized it happened everytime I pushed the accelerator down aggressively.
In total this issue happened 3 times, where it "fixed" itself after a restart. But the 4th time it went into limp mode with ESP light and it stayed that way even after a restart. Ever since then I haven't been able to drive it at all since it stays in limp mode.
I've tried resetting the transmission, clearing codes, I replaced the spark plugs (needed to be done), disconnected the battery, cleaned out the TB under the MAF, checked the tubing and connections (nothing glaringly wrong, just a bit dirty)
So given the way situation has evolved do you guys think its the pedal, throttle body or something else? This has been such a headache...
I have a 2003 E320.
My ODBII reader gives me a P0120 and a N/A code. From what I've read, the issue is the throttle position sensor. People have claimed to solve it by replacing the gas pedal which houses a sensor or the throttle body. Being in Canada, ordering these parts are pricey and I don't have that much money to drop on this car so ideally I can narrow down the problem before buying anything.
Here's how the problem developed:
I first experienced the ESP light when I was downshifting to pass someone. The car jerked once and then went into limp mode. I think I was pushing down the pedal quite a bit. But I turned the corner, restarted the car (off and on) and it was good to drive again. I thought it was just a temporary thing but it happened again a couple days later, and I realized it happened everytime I pushed the accelerator down aggressively.
In total this issue happened 3 times, where it "fixed" itself after a restart. But the 4th time it went into limp mode with ESP light and it stayed that way even after a restart. Ever since then I haven't been able to drive it at all since it stays in limp mode.
I've tried resetting the transmission, clearing codes, I replaced the spark plugs (needed to be done), disconnected the battery, cleaned out the TB under the MAF, checked the tubing and connections (nothing glaringly wrong, just a bit dirty)
So given the way situation has evolved do you guys think its the pedal, throttle body or something else? This has been such a headache...
07-17-2016, 05:27 PM
#2
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
For years after digital technology entered cars - lot of mechanics did know difference between sensors.
I had P0120 code on diesel, that does not have throttle. Go figure.
You have bad PPS and that is what you should replace.
Most likely your ignorance on fixing it and resetting it instead- lead to permanent limp and now you need SD to clear it.
Than it could be PPS going completely dead.
Than you might have other things going as well.
Coming from W210, I know that you could ignore/reset errors endlessly on them, but this is another indication that W211 have a program that will penalize you for ignoring the codes.
Who knows?
I had P0120 code on diesel, that does not have throttle. Go figure.
You have bad PPS and that is what you should replace.
Most likely your ignorance on fixing it and resetting it instead- lead to permanent limp and now you need SD to clear it.
Than it could be PPS going completely dead.
Than you might have other things going as well.
Coming from W210, I know that you could ignore/reset errors endlessly on them, but this is another indication that W211 have a program that will penalize you for ignoring the codes.
Who knows?
Last edited by kajtek1; 07-17-2016 at 05:41 PM.
07-17-2016, 05:56 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
For years after digital technology entered cars - lot of mechanics did know difference between sensors.
I had P0120 code on diesel, that does not have throttle. Go figure.
You have bad PPS and that is what you should replace.
Most likely your ignorance on fixing it and resetting it instead- lead to permanent limp and now you need SD to clear it.
Than it could be PPS going completely dead.
Than you might have other things going as well.
Coming from W210, I know that you could ignore/reset errors endlessly on them, but this is another indication that W211 have a program that will penalize you for ignoring the codes.
Who knows?
I had P0120 code on diesel, that does not have throttle. Go figure.
You have bad PPS and that is what you should replace.
Most likely your ignorance on fixing it and resetting it instead- lead to permanent limp and now you need SD to clear it.
Than it could be PPS going completely dead.
Than you might have other things going as well.
Coming from W210, I know that you could ignore/reset errors endlessly on them, but this is another indication that W211 have a program that will penalize you for ignoring the codes.
Who knows?
07-17-2016, 06:02 PM
#4
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Yes, PEDAL sensor. Bare in mind that technology was made in Germany and professional translators are not necessarily technically-inclined.
When we can only guess how many problems you have and how the programs interact, the PPS code was pretty clear per your description and you need to start with fixing the root problem before going any farther.
Good luck.
Good for you those things become cheaper. I had to spend $450 for one years ago.
Darn expensive potentiometer
When we can only guess how many problems you have and how the programs interact, the PPS code was pretty clear per your description and you need to start with fixing the root problem before going any farther.
Good luck.
Good for you those things become cheaper. I had to spend $450 for one years ago.
Darn expensive potentiometer
Last edited by kajtek1; 07-17-2016 at 06:11 PM.
07-17-2016, 06:10 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ok thanks again.
By the way, one more tidbit of information. At one point I disconnected the pedal mechanism itself to see if it would throw out any codes. When I did that it came up with P0122 on top of the P0120 from before. Not sure if that changes anything or not though.
By the way, one more tidbit of information. At one point I disconnected the pedal mechanism itself to see if it would throw out any codes. When I did that it came up with P0122 on top of the P0120 from before. Not sure if that changes anything or not though.
07-17-2016, 06:15 PM
#6
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
P0122 indicate open circuit, what confirms what you did.
Unfortunately you will have to deal with confusion where people not knowing technology write or translate repair manual, so there still is a chance that it is actually throttle sensor, but those are bulletproof and seldom fail.
You will get wealth of information about those engines from W210 sections.
Better yet, go where the clown from Tampa was not allowed to spread misinformation.
Unfortunately you will have to deal with confusion where people not knowing technology write or translate repair manual, so there still is a chance that it is actually throttle sensor, but those are bulletproof and seldom fail.
You will get wealth of information about those engines from W210 sections.
Better yet, go where the clown from Tampa was not allowed to spread misinformation.
Last edited by kajtek1; 07-17-2016 at 06:18 PM.
07-17-2016, 07:26 PM
#7
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2013 ML350 Bluetec
I had that code on my CDI. Unplugging the throttle and plugging it back in has kept it away for about 6 months now. No throttle body so it kinda had to be the throttle position sensors (A/B) giving bad info at greater than 1/2 throttle. If it throws the code again, I've now got the proper tamper proof torx head screw bits to get into the sensor case. If I can fix it, great. If not, pedals are all over Ebay for not much money.
As an aside: Why the unnecessary jab?
As an aside: Why the unnecessary jab?
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07-23-2016, 03:51 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
An update and perhaps solution.
I got the new pedal and switched it out. Unfortunately it didn't fix anything. I decided I would clean the MAF and TB one more time before consulting a mechanic. While cleaning out the TB I noticed a connector near the TB under the MAF. It seemed kind of dirty so I cleaned that as well.
After putting everything back together, the car actually started and didn't have the ESP malfunction or limp mode! The check engine light was still on for P0120 but I cleared it and its been ok since. I haven't run the car extensively yet since I have to do a brake flush but it seem promising.
Unfortunately I didn't get to narrow down the problem between the MAF/TB or that connector near the TB. I also didnt take a picture. Anyone know what that connector is? I believe it had size pins similar to the pedal connector. Would it be the throttle position sensor? In my searching, I coudldnt find a picture of the w211 tps.
I got the new pedal and switched it out. Unfortunately it didn't fix anything. I decided I would clean the MAF and TB one more time before consulting a mechanic. While cleaning out the TB I noticed a connector near the TB under the MAF. It seemed kind of dirty so I cleaned that as well.
After putting everything back together, the car actually started and didn't have the ESP malfunction or limp mode! The check engine light was still on for P0120 but I cleared it and its been ok since. I haven't run the car extensively yet since I have to do a brake flush but it seem promising.
Unfortunately I didn't get to narrow down the problem between the MAF/TB or that connector near the TB. I also didnt take a picture. Anyone know what that connector is? I believe it had size pins similar to the pedal connector. Would it be the throttle position sensor? In my searching, I coudldnt find a picture of the w211 tps.
