When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looks like one/both finally went last week. 117k isn't too bad of a run I guess.
I am trying to figure out if there is a way to replace the drivers side mount without removing the axle? Passenger side looks like you remove the alternator and it gives you access?
I literally just replaced drivers axle a month ago -- had I realized then I would have done it, but it is what it is...
You will make a big mess if you do what you learned at Ben's Wurld.
Believe it or not the correct way is lift the engine(remove the two bolts), remove the R and L front fender liner plus remove the engine compartment liner and remove the lower mount bolt--install the mount(s)(follow the grove) and buy the wife a hot dog!!
Regardless what Plutoe might think, you don't need VIN nor SD, nor DAS for the job.
I did it some time ago, but remember removing front 1/2 of fender liner only on 1 side.
I'm assuming that's the drivers side since you can remove the alternator for passenger side?
Either way I did NOT want to remove axles to replace the stupid engine mount!
Going to get two new MB mounts ordered tonight. When I did my trans fluid change my trans mount looked fine and my overall Mb experience has been that the T-mount lasts twice whatever the engine mounts do since they are not hydraulically filled and have much less movement.
No idea why you'd need DAS regardless? Seems just plain wrong...
ill keep my comments to myself in regards to what i have been reading. however the most simplistic way to do this, assuming you have a 4matic is......
remove both front wheels.
loosen lower mount bolt and upper mount bolt.
use jack to jack motor up enough to remove mount from wheel well area (mount is looking right at you when you remove wheel if you indeed have 4matic).
install in reverse order. tops 5-7 minutes a side if you are nice with tools/have skills.
if u have 4matic w211, nothing needs to be removed except for encapsulation panels and wheels.
they are literally dtf for removal. 13mm for subframe bolt 16mm flex ratchet for top bolt. 2 jack stands and obviously a jack. have fun.
Looking at the picture, now I remember that I removed inner fender to avoid bending it too much.
So yes, if you don't mind some bending, nothing else need to be removed.
Hard to keep on topic where you have a clown, who never was under the car spreading fart around.
Alright totally confused about spam/das whatever your talking about..don't see any posts mentioning that...
Why would the peachparts tech article tell you that you have to remove the alternator and axle?
I was going to be so pissed if I had to re-do the axle removal again LOL. Getting the axle shaft back in was a real pain...it just wouldn't line up and took me about an hour worth of frustration, especially in 110F heat in the AZ summer right now! (that was more likely the frustrating factor...)
Thanks guys. Got them ordered from mbdirectparts they are a great dealer to buy genuine from FYI and fantastic prices.
You have to figure out who you are listening to.
Professional mechanics will always paint bad picture, because that allows them to come with bigger estimate.
cmriv works for dealer as well. He will not hesitate to bend parts to save 2 minutes on removal simply because when the part cracks - it is not his car and he will get paid full amount anyway.
My latest purchase - pristine 2008 Bluetec -cost me about $500 in parts I had to replace under the hood simply because they were bend, kink and ripped during dealer's "service"
If simple MM can bring so much confusion, imagine what will happen when you come to SBC rebuild.
You have to figure out who you are listening to.
Professional mechanics will always paint bad picture, because that allows them to come with bigger estimate.
cmriv works for dealer as well. He will not hesitate to bend parts to save 2 minutes on removal simply because when the part cracks - it is not his car and he will get paid full amount anyway.
My latest purchase - pristine 2008 Bluetec -cost me about $500 in parts I had to replace under the hood simply because they were bend, kink and ripped during dealer's "service"
If simple MM can bring so much confusion, imagine what will happen when you come to SBC rebuild.
With you on that one -- I am very capable DIY'er...I think in the last decade I've gone to a dealer twice. One for an alignment, and one when I moved from CA to AZ and my water pump blew and I had no tools, so reluctantly took it to an MB indy (who was highly recommended, only to find GREEN coolant in it, which I had to fix myself, and was a reminder why these guys will shortcut and never do a good job like I know I can).
Most of my experience is with my 88 300TE, but unfortunately the newer MB's don't make the factory manual like they used to, so have to dig a little deeper now (even more so now they took away EPC)...I did the entire rear suspension, axle and subframe rebuild from the factory manual since they have fantastic photos and details...shame.
....Soon I'll be getting the Chinese DAS and I can scan myself! Got the Dell laptop for it, just need to find a good seller of the unit.
In last 15 years I went to dealer once >>> for alignment on 4M and they kept the wagon for 3 days to get it close to specifications.
When 5,000 miles later I have front tires bold on inner edges, while still 4mm on center, I pulled my old scale to check toe. It was 4 degree negative, when it should be roughly 0-0.5 positive.
Good luck with the DAS.
I have carsoft I bought long time ago and I gave it another try this week. After spending like 3 hr to download the crack from 2 different discs I had, the software finally opens, but the multiplexer can't read the car.
Good part that $50 toughbook laptop I bought for it, is going to be excelent for GPS
Let me know how your DAS will work?
With you on that one -- I am very capable DIY'er...I think in the last decade I've gone to a dealer twice. One for an alignment, and one when I moved from CA to AZ and my water pump blew and I had no tools, so reluctantly took it to an MB indy (who was highly recommended, only to find GREEN coolant in it, which I had to fix myself, and was a reminder why these guys will shortcut and never do a good job like I know I can).
Most of my experience is with my 88 300TE, but unfortunately the newer MB's don't make the factory manual like they used to, so have to dig a little deeper now (even more so now they took away EPC)...I did the entire rear suspension, axle and subframe rebuild from the factory manual since they have fantastic photos and details...shame.
....Soon I'll be getting the Chinese DAS and I can scan myself! Got the Dell laptop for it, just need to find a good seller of the unit.
Got an X431 Launch EasyDiag a while ago. Finally fired it up because I was getting an ESP Inoperative message. It actually worked fine, scanned the car and found a bunch of MB specific errors, but I think most of them were old. It did tell me that the steering angle sensor was bad. There were several other possibilities too so that really narrowed it down. Only cost me about $30 at the time from aliexpress, I think they're up to around $56 or so, you have to buy the one that gives you access to two manufacturers line. Seems to do all the sub systems like ABS etc.
You have to figure out who you are listening to.
Professional mechanics will always paint bad picture, because that allows them to come with bigger estimate.
cmriv works for dealer as well. He will not hesitate to bend parts to save 2 minutes on removal simply because when the part cracks - it is not his car and he will get paid full amount anyway.
My latest purchase - pristine 2008 Bluetec -cost me about $500 in parts I had to replace under the hood simply because they were bend, kink and ripped during dealer's "service"
If simple MM can bring so much confusion, imagine what will happen when you come to SBC rebuild.
This coming from a guy who would rather do the same job 4 times and fail rather then purchasing the correct tool to do the job. And under no circumstance do you need to bend the fender liner. Simply remove the mount....
Alright totally confused about spam/das whatever your talking about..don't see any posts mentioning that...
Why would the peachparts tech article tell you that you have to remove the alternator and axle?
I was going to be so pissed if I had to re-do the axle removal again LOL. Getting the axle shaft back in was a real pain...it just wouldn't line up and took me about an hour worth of frustration, especially in 110F heat in the AZ summer right now! (that was more likely the frustrating factor...)
Thanks guys. Got them ordered from mbdirectparts they are a great dealer to buy genuine from FYI and fantastic prices.
And directions are there for the incompetent. If you can do a job precisely and efficiently without following every step then why not? Assuming you have the correct tools. Be careful with kajtek, don't let the obsessive high post count and thank you's fool you. He will send you on a wild goose chase in a heartbeat.
Got it done this morning. Went smooth no issues. Removing the fender liner gives plenty of access. Remove bottom bolts holding mount in. You can access the top bolt of the engine mount from the engine bay using a long extension and a flexible extension on the socket as its slightly offset and not a straight shot.
I jacked up the engine after removing air intake on engine using a 2x4 and a towel on top of it to protect the pan. I went slow though to not jack up any further than was necessary. There seems to be an updated mount design and its slightly taller. Had no issues though, so part was definitely right.
Total time was about 2hrs from start to tools cleaned up and done.
Told'ya it is piece of cake on this combo.
In the mean time on other topic a member used fancy engine lift for such job.
Looks good and simple, so next time I am due for MM, I will research the price.
Got it done this morning. Went smooth no issues. Removing the fender liner gives plenty of access. Remove bottom bolts holding mount in. You can access the top bolt of the engine mount from the engine bay using a long extension and a flexible extension on the socket as its slightly offset and not a straight shot.
I jacked up the engine after removing air intake on engine using a 2x4 and a towel on top of it to protect the pan. I went slow though to not jack up any further than was necessary. There seems to be an updated mount design and its slightly taller. Had no issues though, so part was definitely right.
Total time was about 2hrs from start to tools cleaned up and done.
Is this only applicable to on the Bluetec can the mounts be removed through the wheel well on non Bluetec models?
On Bluetec I had to remove alternator, push it in the corner of the bay and than MM would go via the top.
That's the way I figured out without searching the net, so maybe there is easier way, but I also wanted to check alternator brushes and it was right call.
Told'ya it is piece of cake on this combo.
In the mean time on other topic a member used fancy engine lift for such job.
Looks good and simple, so next time I am due for MM, I will research the price.
I would recommend not using this method to support the engine. There is a small risk the side panels will deform just slightly. I know because after this was used I noticed that the gap between the hood and the side panel was uneven.
08-16-2016, 01:09 PM
