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Hi just purchased E350 2006 last weekend , codes poped up P0016 & P0017 , went today to the dealer and ....... Bum .... My jaw just droped for being quoted for fixing this problems .... What to do next ? It is 8500$ fix !!!!!!!!!
now the dealer put a lot of things in the quote that are "related" with the the error codes but a few are not. that $8500 is more than the value of the car i reckon so i wouldnt set foot on that dealership ever again.
now tell us what happened when the CEL came up? hows the car running since?
i had the same code came up on my 212 and i changed the solenoids myself for under $80 iirc and that took care of the problem,
What you mean covered in stickies ???
I bought the car for a bit under 8K , the rest in in very good shape , its clean in and out , just this problem wont let my eyes rest at night .... Jeeeezzzz i will shoot myself ....
Uuuuuhhhh ok i explain a bit more ..... Codes poped almost after i left the dealer on my way home
engine is running smooth on idle no shaking no vibration , accelarate perfect like it should , nothing really seems like is wrong with it ,
one more thing i found , oil in coolant reservoir which my guess is bad oil cooler seal ????? So i can simply do it myself by seal replace and coolant system flush ??
besides of this above nothing else wrong with the car
thank tou for every single input
btw my wifey will get a heart attack ... So i keep it as a seccret for now .....
Uuuuuhhhh ok i explain a bit more ..... Codes poped almost after i left the dealer on my way home
engine is running smooth on idle no shaking no vibration , accelarate perfect like it should , nothing really seems like is wrong with it ,
one more thing i found , oil in coolant reservoir which my guess is bad oil cooler seal ????? So i can simply do it myself by seal replace and coolant system flush ??
besides of this above nothing else wrong with the car
thank tou for every single input
btw my wifey will get a heart attack ... So i keep it as a seccret for now .....
when you say error code popped up almost after you drove off from the dealer, you mean after you purchased it? dont you have a cooling off period or even a 60 day warranty at least? shouldnt they be liable for it then?
On the section front page top you will find few topics mark "sticky"
They cover common issues and fixes for those cars.
You should have good time reading it.
As beej said - dealer will always paint you Apocalypse job, but even if you don't DIY, indy usually take 1/2 of the price.
Than you need to evaluate what is really necessary.
Oil cooler is not expensive part, but often lot of labor involved.
Perfect job for DIY who wants to get familiar with the engine.
Yea after i purchased it , right before they closed on saturday afternoon , this was not MB dealer but just a local dealer , called them and they said sorry to hear it but now there is nothing we can do for you .....
im right now at the local mechanic shop , german car lover and lets see what he will say ....
if this is not a sipmple sensor replacement i will have no choice but leave the car for him to get it fix
oil cooler job with some DIY i can do it myself , i have plenty of tools and space in my men cave
fingers crossed about his opinion ((
Yea after i purchased it , right before they closed on saturday afternoon , this was not MB dealer but just a local dealer , called them and they said sorry to hear it but now there is nothing we can do for you .....
im right now at the local mechanic shop , german car lover and lets see what he will say ....
if this is not a sipmple sensor replacement i will have no choice but leave the car for him to get it fix
oil cooler job with some DIY i can do it myself , i have plenty of tools and space in my men cave
fingers crossed about his opinion ((
wow that sucks. that error code shows up intermittently as far as i know. ones the CEl lights up, turn your engine off and on again and clear the code with an OBDII reader and it wont show up for a while.
im thinking yours already has it, seller cleared it and sold to you and popped up again after you bought it. how well do you know the dealership you bought the car from? i wouldnt take this "sorry to hear it but now there is nothing we can do for you ...." even close to being acceptable. i would burn that place down. very dodgy!
and where did you get the estimate of $8500 from?
also, for the love of me, how did they come up with $8500 total from their estimate of prices? it just doesnt add up right.
Yeees codes pop up right after engine starts , even after i clear them ....
I went to my two well know mechanics and one said about 3500$ another 2500$ for everything with MB parts .... So i guess i have no other option but let my mechanic do this fix.....
he also said that radiator needs to be replaced , oil and filter for transmission , engine cooling system flush and fill with fresh coolant - transsmision slips occasionally another 400-500$ job
btw what is going on with manifold and some flaps ???? It is related to codes i have ?? Or thats another different problem ? Anyone can explain a bit
appreciate tour feedback
and where did you get the estimate of $8500 from?
also, for the love of me, how did they come up with $8500 total from their estimate of prices? it just doesnt add up right.
Orland Park Mercedes benz dealer , u can see the estimate on the pics above ..... Im thinking about 39 total labor hrs !!!! That about 5000$ just in labor , wtf ????
next why do i need oil pump ? Oil pan ? Plus some other small parts or seal and gaskets which pump the price ??! Im not stupid
after you burn the place where you bought your car, save a couple liters of petrol, drive to orland MB and burn it as well.
id say, do a bit of research yourself, if your handy with the tools, you might save a few thousand with DIY and replacing JUST the necessary parts. nothing to lose and everything to gain mate. goodluck!
try to determine what exactly the problem is, then try to search on google (easier that way) and you'll prolly still end up here on MBWorld for some DIY tips and how to.
depends on what the actual diagnosis is. hope for the best but expect the worst.
if everything else fails, that $2500 quote sounds better than the $8500.
problem with balance shaft is once teeth break off you never know what has been damaged by metal chunks in the oil.
for example scored pistons and cylinder walls. scored camshafts damaged oil pump
main and rod bearings etc...
My only problem is time .... Cant do this over weekend.... Cant take days off since i never do this on mercedes so it for sure takes time
yes you right u wont know whats happend till u open an engine, could be 600 $ or 1500$ just in parts ....
another problem i dont have a lift to pull engine out ....
You can actually rent an engine hoist from home depot or just buy one, I think they start at around $300. And you do have to pull the engine, it can't be done with the engine in the car.
$ 179 http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-c...ane-61858.html
Doing bushings last spring I called local machine shop how much they wanted for pressing them out. They would do it for $120.
I spend $140 and bought my own press.
You can actually rent an engine hoist from home depot or just buy one, I think they start at around $300. And you do have to pull the engine, it can't be done with the engine in the car.
thank you very much , tomorrow first thing i will pull camshaft sensors and check iside the holes myself how far off center marks are
then im gonna fix my oil in coolant job , oil cooler and oil filter housing gaskets , thinner oil with a bit of coolant could be a reason of this depends how much off camshaft marks are
then im gonna look myself on the back of the intake manifold and see what is broken and need to be fix
i got to see myself exactley what is going on , i also try to use stetoscop and check timming cover area for any broken balance shaft
that is my plan and i ll post my results and pictures
if some of you have any advise to my diagnostic plan please share your opinion thank you
Ok yesterday i open the hood and started looking myself ....
first intake manifold and i found that middle actuator isnot working at all becouse its rod ( link ) is separated pic below
It is thight and pics arent good but that is the clue for my P1200 and 1206 codes , also engine falls on its face above 3000 rpm
another thing oil in coolant ..... I tested that oil and this is engine oil so oil cooler , gaskets and oil filter housing must go , already ordered, coolant system flush and new oil
now balance shaft thing , stetoscop helpsto find the noise but there is , nothing no noise at all ????
marks on camshaft isnt in center
I mean left camshaft - exhaust side .... Is anything else i can check to confirm my balance shaft is gone ??? Thank you
09-14-2016, 05:55 PM
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