E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Questions about oil change.

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Old 10-20-2016, 07:36 PM
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2005 E509 4matic
Questions about oil change.

Was wondering what is good to use for doing my own oil changes as far as filters and oil. I'm in Connecticut USA and car has 130000 miles on it. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
Old 10-20-2016, 09:01 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Buy Mityvac or 12V electric pump and you will do the service faster than driving to JiffyLube alone.
Check with your garbage company if they will collect motor oil.
My service will even deliver containers (relabeled milk bottles) and bags for oil filters.
Old 10-20-2016, 09:38 PM
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Only use the correct filter. Mann or Mercedes oil filter, these come with all the necessary "o" rings that must be replaced at each oil change. I use 5w30 Valvoline synpower in my E500. You can use Mobil One, Valvoline, Pennzoil, synthetic oil. Be careful not to strip screws on underpan when replacing the plastic pan.
Old 10-20-2016, 10:16 PM
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Yes I have checked around and fram filters do come with all necessary o-rings. And thanks for the oil info. Wasn't to sure if I should go with that or the old fashioned 0-40 weight. And will do with the bolts. Good look mate.
Old 10-20-2016, 11:50 PM
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I think Walmart has Mobil 1 0-40 at around $25.47 and there's a $12 rebate on a 5 quart jug til the end of Oct. The rebate works at Walmart. Limit is 2.

http://slickdeals.net/f/8979959-12-r...src=SiteSearch

For the filter, any fleece filter should be fine, but lots of people prefer either MB or Mann.
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Old 10-21-2016, 12:23 AM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Don't buy Fram filter.
Make shopping list and order at autohousaz.com.
Once you hit $75 shipping is free and no taxes.
I don't like Mobil1 since it generated higher iron, but I've been Castrol fan before M1 was invented and Walmart carry Castroll 0-40 that meets MB spec for good price
Old 10-21-2016, 09:29 AM
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The Mann filter is the same as the MB filter and so is purolator 25277 filter. All three of these are the same filter made in Germany. DON'T use cheap fram and other aftermarket, its not worth the risk.
Here is a good discussion : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ance-auto.html
Old 10-21-2016, 09:40 AM
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Good to know thanks.
Old 10-21-2016, 01:32 PM
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Hengst also makes fleece filters for MBs. They're what I use. Google for their site.

As for disposing of the old oil ... the Auto Zone store I frequent takes all my old oil. So does Jiffy Lube.

Good luck, Mate.
Old 10-21-2016, 02:01 PM
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I've used the Purolator filters, they've been fine. Sometimes you can find them really cheap or you can get them as part of an oil/filter deal.
Old 10-22-2016, 01:03 PM
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My '05 CDI goes about 13,000 miles between MB recommended changes so I get the oil and filter from the dealer. Not a bad price and at 165,000 miles I've not a concern about MB knowing what they are suggesting. I also use the Mityvac system like the dealer and although I was initially not happy about the drops left in the oil pan, I got over it. Especially considering all of the effort removing under body pans and jacking up the car. Oil, it seems, does not go bad. It loses corrosion inhihibtors and loads up with dirt. Leaving a bit of old oil in the pan effectively does nothing to the capabilities of the new oil different from the first two miles of driving.

Diesels do turn their oil to black paint so do not wear anything you want to stay nice. Even a nice garage shirt. Use an old one, ha!

Peter
Old 10-22-2016, 02:58 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
You always will have few spoons of oil left on flat pan no matter what method you use.
That still is nothing comparing to some oil filter housing holding 1/2 cup plus engine valleys plus oil coolers.
With extractor I at least suck from filter housing.
Old 10-23-2016, 12:23 AM
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'13 E350 . M276
i changed my oil yesterday. I did not use a torque wrench to torque oil filter housing. I tightened it to where it felt secure. Today I went to run some errands, and when I returned home I smelled burning oil. I checked under the hood and sure enough there was some seepage from oil filter housing that had dropped all the way down to the plastic guards.

Earlier I read on another Benz site it should be torqued to 25 nm. I'll have to do that in the morning.

Last edited by Stuttgarten; 10-23-2016 at 01:25 AM.
Old 10-23-2016, 12:51 AM
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Stuttgarten: Did you properly place all the O-rings on the new filter, especially the one at the top? And what brand filter did you use?
Old 10-23-2016, 01:20 AM
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Yes, I used the 4 O-rings that came with the Mahle filter. I placed the top O-ring all the way to the top thread, actually you could see its edge well compressed, possibly I didn't torque it hard enough.
Old 10-23-2016, 01:46 AM
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Orings on those filters do not get compress. They slide into the housing sleeve and don't need any torque to hold the pressure.
Torque is for securing the cap from unscrewing.
Double check the issue Al
Old 10-23-2016, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ptkacik
My '05 CDI goes about 13,000 miles between MB recommended changes so I get the oil and filter from the dealer. Not a bad price and at 165,000 miles I've not a concern about MB knowing what they are suggesting. I also use the Mityvac system like the dealer and although I was initially not happy about the drops left in the oil pan, I got over it. Especially considering all of the effort removing under body pans and jacking up the car. Oil, it seems, does not go bad. It loses corrosion inhihibtors and loads up with dirt. Leaving a bit of old oil in the pan effectively does nothing to the capabilities of the new oil different from the first two miles of driving.

Diesels do turn their oil to black paint so do not wear anything you want to stay nice. Even a nice garage shirt. Use an old one, ha!

Peter
well I don't have a diesel so I won't have to worry about that lol. But I have always drained from under the car any time I have done oil changes on any other vehicles. I just feel that draining it from the pan it self you would get more out then pumping it out fron the top. I mean think about it, every thing sinks down to the oil pan and pulling the plug out will drain it all rather then pumping from the top. Idk just my thought.
Old 10-23-2016, 12:02 PM
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Pulling the oil out the top initially bothered me too; however, I got over it.

I always use a torque wrench on the plastic filter housing but I think it is to make sure it doesn't come loose and leak oil or get stripped out. A small oil leak seems more like dripped oil on a manifold or twisted O-ring. Yikes.

Peter
Old 10-23-2016, 03:05 PM
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'13 E350 . M276
This morning I found a little puddle of oil under the car. I think seeping oil had all night to freely flow to bottom. I decided to run engine and observe oil filter housing. As soon as engine started oil could be seen seeing from left side of housing, driver's side. I immediately shut engine off. Now, things got worse; as I was attempting to unscrew filter cap, filter wrench slipped and I hit the small breather pipe, snapping it at the one end near the engine, as could be seen in picture. NOT FUN!

OK, it's Sunday and I can't get a new oil filter/gasket or the small breather pipe. I guess I could go to Auto Zone and get a cheap filter, but only use gasket that comes with it. For the breather pipe, 2115010625, does anyone have any suggestion how I could possibly glue this PBS broken nipple until tomorrow when dealer is open!

I wanna apologize for possibly hijacking this thread, but one thing just led to another.
Attached Thumbnails Questions about oil change.-rad-hose.jpg  

Last edited by Stuttgarten; 10-24-2016 at 12:09 AM.
Old 10-23-2016, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Stuttgarten
This morning I found a little puddle of oil under the car. I think seeping oil had all night to freely flow to bottom. I decided to run engine and observe oil filter housing. As soon as engine started oil could be seen seeing from left side of housing, driver's side. I immediately shut engine off. Now things get worse; as I was attempting to unscrew filter cap, filter wrench slipped and I hit the small breather pipe, snapping it at the one end near the engine, as could be seen in picture. NOT FUN!

OK, it's Sunday and I can't get a new oil filter/gasket or the small breather pipe. I guess I could go to Auto Zone and get a cheap filter, but only use gasket that comes with it. For the breather pipe, 2115010625, does anyone have any suggestion how I could possibly glue this PBS broken nipple until tomorrow when dealer is open!

I wanna apologize for possibly hijacking the thread, but one thing just led to another.

I'm not sure where you are but I'm sure all advanced autos are the same. The one in my town carries mann oil filters with all gaskets and also the copper washer for the drain plug. And I'm pretty sure you can get the hose there aswell.
Old 10-23-2016, 08:22 PM
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I have extra filter AL.
For the pipe make-shift repair would be good wrap of electrical tape.
Old 10-24-2016, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by kajtek1
I have extra filter AL.
For the pipe make-shift repair would be good wrap of electrical tape.
Thanks Kajtek!. A buddy of mine will stop by dealer tomorrow and pick up what I need. Just spent the day doing my yard and cooking, nice change of pace!
Old 10-24-2016, 11:37 PM
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Problem Solved!

It turned out that I had placed the large seal of filter housing in the wrong channel/groove. I'm attaching a pic of visual instructions that came with MB filter that show proper area to place that seal. Not sure what happened this time, but I certainly had overlooked that minor detail.

Also you could see in attached picture the MB oil filter that's made by Mann. Thanks for you guys' input
Attached Thumbnails Questions about oil change.-inst.jpg   Questions about oil change.-filt.jpg  
Old 10-24-2016, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Stuttgarten
It turned out that I had placed the large seal of filter housing in the wrong channel/groove. I'm attaching a pic of visual instructions that came with MB filter that show proper area to place that seal. Not sure what happened this time, but I certainly had overlooked that minor detail.

Also you could see in attached picture the MB oil filter that's made by Mann. Thanks for you guys' input
Here is photo of Purolator 25277 oil filter. Note that its made by Mann and the HU part number is the same as Mercedes filter.

Old 10-24-2016, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by homeofstone
Here is photo of Purolator 25277 oil filter. Note that its made by Mann and the HU part number is the same as Mercedes filter.

Very interesting indeed, just curious how much was the Purolator filter? I paid $16 for the MB filter. I just checked and nearby Pep Boys has the Purolator for $8.39, what a deal!

Last edited by Stuttgarten; 10-25-2016 at 12:01 AM.


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