Locked engine
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Locked engine
today while doing Sevice B on my 08 sport with 106k miles, I stupidly didn't place the top O-ring on the oil filter canister in the proper position. 1 mile after leaving home, I notice smoke boiling from engine (obviously burning off the exhaust) immediately go to pull off the road and she shuts down. Popped the hood then noticed the gasket pushed out and determined where the oil loss came from. She was 5 quarts low. Filled it back up and placed everything back in the proper position. And nothing. Just a click.. I put a 27mm on the crank pulley and can't budge the engine.. I'm assuming she's seized? Any ideas are welcomed.
#2
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Did you have oil warning messages on cluster?
5 quarts low should still leave 4l in the crankcase so it was not like you run it dry, but if wrench with 18" arm is not turning the engine, that pretty much confirms that.
You can pull the spark plug and inspect with one of those snake cameras.
5 quarts low should still leave 4l in the crankcase so it was not like you run it dry, but if wrench with 18" arm is not turning the engine, that pretty much confirms that.
You can pull the spark plug and inspect with one of those snake cameras.
#3
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Thanks, yeah nothing appeared on the cluster. I couldn't budge it at all. An extremely depressing and embarrassing moment in a guys life when he kills a car during a simple service. Again, any ideas will be welcomed
#4
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I understand how embarrassing it can be, but you should get 2 warnings on cluster that come with pretty loud "BANG"
One is for low oil level, the other - in red color for oil pressure.
Is it possible you did not notice them?
One is for low oil level, the other - in red color for oil pressure.
Is it possible you did not notice them?
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
That depends on if it is 4matic or not for someone who doesn't do motor swaps on these often. It's not that difficult imo. Trickiest part is lining bell housing up with block when going back in. taking it out is cake.
#9
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Thread Starter
It's not a 4matic, just RWD. does the ECU or anything have to be flashed or reset? anything in specific to look out for? motor has 70k miles and comes with 4 month warranty. the rest of my running gear is flawless. Again, the car failed because of my negligence , not MB, so any tips are welcomed.
#10
Banned
Yikes. Where are you located? I'd hire it out- not because it's especially difficult, but because you have someone to blame if something gets overlooked later ... and there's a lot to overlook in an engine swap!
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
It's not a 4matic, just RWD. does the ECU or anything have to be flashed or reset? anything in specific to look out for? motor has 70k miles and comes with 4 month warranty. the rest of my running gear is flawless. Again, the car failed because of my negligence , not MB, so any tips are welcomed.
disconnect battery.
drain all fluids.
loosen and lower trans cooler lines from engine block and trans.
since engine is locked you will need to remove engine with torque converter.
once engine is out you SHOULD be able to rotate engine to separate t/c from fly-wheel (set some cash aside for a used t/c, hardware to secure it to fly-wheel and trans fluid) just my two cents in case engine doesn't turn when removed from vehicle.
IF i were you i would loosen a/c compressor and let it stay in vehicle (don't forget ground strap on compressor) it can be a pita some times taking engine out with a/c compressor still bolted to front cover....
Good luck!
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Alright, motor and car will be headed to the same german mechanic that works on my 944 on a week from today. I'm hoping by next Saturday, she'll be back on the road.