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I don't think it's the weather per se. I mentioned before that mine went away not to return, and this is despite weather that was colder than when the shudder was present. Now weather influences tire pressure, so maybe the change in tire pressure is a possible culprit.
Definitely not tire pressure. It shudders when cutting wheel into parking spaces, etc. Simple rolling speeds, like 5mph max.
Car went in and had a new transfer case installed. Upon return problem was still there. I called MB and told them that the problem was still there, but I'd give it a week or so to see if it wears in.
Over the next two weeks it became significantly worse. So bad, in fact, that I was hesitant to drive it. So MB picked up the car again and inspected it. Decided to put in a whole new DRIVE-TRAIN!!!! But an entire drive-train can not just be shipped in. They have to have it brought in by a flat bed truck. So now we are waiting for MB to have it brought via a semi. I have the car back and they swear I wont hurt it (or me) by driving it. But the shudder keeps getting significantly worse and at higher speeds, and less turning radius. It can't be good for any components connected to the fault can it?
BTW, my dealer called MBUSA and they were told that the problem appears to be with the transfer of energy; something about the energy going in, isn't equating to the energy coming out.
Car went in and had a new transfer case installed. Upon return problem was still there. I called MB and told them that the problem was still there, but I'd give it a week or so to see if it wears in.
Over the next two weeks it became significantly worse. So bad, in fact, that I was hesitant to drive it. So MB picked up the car again and inspected it. Decided to put in a whole new DRIVE-TRAIN!!!! But an entire drive-train can not just be shipped in. They have to have it brought in by a flat bed truck. So now we are waiting for MB to have it brought via a semi. I have the car back and they swear I wont hurt it (or me) by driving it. But the shudder keeps getting significantly worse and at higher speeds, and less turning radius. It can't be good for any components connected to the fault can it?
BTW, my dealer called MBUSA and they were told that the problem appears to be with the transfer of energy; something about the energy going in, isn't equating to the energy coming out.
I'll keep everyone updated.
WOW! Very strange that my issue 100% disappeared once the frigid temps lifted.
Just arrived back in town this evening and MB has left a message that the new drive-train is in. WOW THAT WAS FAST! (About 10 days). So tomorrow I will call and reschedule. I did drive the car on the highway for 4 hours today and it did seem to make the issue a little better. It is still there when I turn sharply, but not as abrasive.
Car was picked up Sunday evening and just dropped off at noon today (Tuesday). Complete new transmission was installed. Haven't driven it yet. Will post in a couple of days once I've had some time to drive it.
Enzo - Please keep us posted. I experienced the same vibration during slow, sharp turns (i.e. parking into parking spaces). My dealership said it was the transfer case and one is on order. My transmission was changed at approx. 35k miles, and now the transfer case at approx. 56k miles. My CPO warranty expires this November, so I'm watching everything very closely.
Enzo - Please keep us posted. I experienced the same vibration during slow, sharp turns (i.e. parking into parking spaces). My dealership said it was the transfer case and one is on order. My transmission was changed at approx. 35k miles, and now the transfer case at approx. 56k miles. My CPO warranty expires this November, so I'm watching everything very closely.
Thanks.
I think the problem is finally fixed. No more shudder when turning tight & slow. If there are any more developments, Ill be sure to post about it here. If you don't hear from me, all is good.
Definitely not tire pressure. It shudders when cutting wheel into parking spaces, etc. Simple rolling speeds, like 5mph max.
Originally Posted by my2001s2000
Enzo - Please keep us posted. I experienced the same vibration during slow, sharp turns (i.e. parking into parking spaces). My dealership said it was the transfer case and one is on order. My transmission was changed at approx. 35k miles, and now the transfer case at approx. 56k miles. My CPO warranty expires this November, so I'm watching everything very closely.
Thanks.
Hey guys,
I had the same problem yesterday and the dealership tried to BS me, saying the spark plugs needed changing. My car only has 78k mi!! The sparks plugs go to 100k.
How did you convince them to change the transfer case? They only offered to change out my fluid. What did you have to say to them, or how did they chain of events go?
a new transfer case will not fix the problem. I have replaced one on a 212 and it came back doing the same thing.
Originally Posted by LaicepsYdobon
Happened on my wife's car (2011 C300). Took it to the dealer where they identified the problem and said they needed to recalibrate the computer and check out the transfer case. Got it back about an hour later with the vibration gone. A few weeks later the vibration came back. Only while doing low speed sharp turns (like parking lots). Took it back to the dealer and they repeated the same process as before (calibration and checkign on transfer case). Again the vibration disappeard. This problem started happening during winter so my wife was suspecting it had something to do with the cold weather. Don't mean to scare you but so far every time she took the car in they seemed to fix it but the problem keeps coming back. If this really is an issue with the glazing of the transfer case would putting in a new/different transfer case solve the issue ? Will it go away when the temps get warmer ?
I'm getting good at resurrecting old threads.
I'm having the same issue.
Problems:
1. Vibration when turning the steering all the way to the left or right, tight turns at slow speeds etc.
2. Jerky shifts from 2-3 or 3-4 as well as down shifts.
Back in 2017 around 46k , they did a software update and in a week time, the issue is back. They replaced K1 Clutch pack and did a tranny rebuilt under factory warranty.
Fast forward 65k miles 2018-2019, the issue is back. Steps like firmware update is repeated this time as well.
Currently vehicle is at the shop and hopefully it will be covered under ELW.
BTW, it doesn't matter the temperature outside. I've had this issue in summer as well.
Now, a silly question: Does this comes under a lemon law? My warranty will expire on June 2020 or 100k miles. I love this car and I want to keep it as far as it could server me.
I think the problem is finally fixed. No more shudder when turning tight & slow. If there are any more developments, Ill be sure to post about it here. If you don't hear from me, all is good.
I know this is an old thread, but any updates after that? Do you still own the car or moved on?
Vibration at low speeds when turning in parking lots
I have a 2013 GLK 350 4Matic with 49,000 miles, I have slight vibration/humming when turning at low speeds when coming out/coming into a parking spot. Is the issue the transfer Case?
Update:
The vibration issue is because of a failed transfer case planetary carrier. and IT IS covered under warranty.
I have vibration when turning right and left while the car is stopped, however while driving the car it is normal my car is E 300 2012 millage 94000 km my question is that a normal and common in this model. Any reply will be appreciated
Update:
The vibration issue is because of a failed transfer case planetary carrier. and IT IS covered under warranty.
Have the same issue - went to the dealer and was told the same thing. Quoted at 1593$ plus tax for a new "planetary gear".
They said that if I don't fix this, my whole transmission/transfer case will break. Are they trying to scare me or is it true? What happens if I just leave it?
Have the same issue - went to the dealer and was told the same thing. Quoted at 1593$ plus tax for a new "planetary gear".
They said that if I don't fix this, my whole transmission/transfer case will break. Are they trying to scare me or is it true? What happens if I just leave it?
Thank you!
Ask your dealer why you don't have the issue other than when turning.
Ask your dealer why you don't have the issue other than when turning.
I did, their reply was something like "it's starting to break, if you leave it it'll get worse and eventually your transmission and/or steering will break". Is this true? Is that what a broken planetary gear does?
I did, their reply was something like "it's starting to break, if you leave it it'll get worse and eventually your transmission and/or steering will break". Is this true? Is that what a broken planetary gear does?
Funny comment "it's starting to break, if you leave it it'll get worse and eventually your transmission and/or steering will break". First of all this has nothing to do with the steering so who made the comment gave you just a blah, blah to scare you to do the repair.
Yes, obviously repair is needed but I personally don't think it is as bad situation as they make it sound like. What the problem with planetary carrier I think is with the clutch pack that I understand is built into it. This clutch pack would be the center differential lock between front and rear axles. You feel the shaking / vibration at turns because that is when you generate speed difference between front and rear axles and the differential lock has to slip to allow this speed difference. The clutch pack is going bad and is not allowing for a smooth slip.
The problem obviously is that during original manufacturing the clutch pack is not lubricated properly and this is why the service bulletin specifically instructs to soak the part in oil before installation. This is to soak the clutch disk friction material so it is properly lubricated.
I don't know in detail how MB built this part. If it is built very cheap way (would be hard to believe from MB) the wearing clutch pack would allow the gear wheels shift sideways and possibly allow them to come in contact with parts they are not supposed to come in contact with. I don't believe MB would have made this kind of design so the problem really is that the friction material layers on the clutch disks are wearing and when totally worn then you get metal to metal contact that would not be good as this could cause bigger issues but even this to me does not sound really a catastrophic failure. You would not have center differential locking basically at all but in dry conditions this would not be an issue.
Found the below utube link. It is about a S-class transfer case but I believe it is built the same way on E-class.
Funny comment "it's starting to break, if you leave it it'll get worse and eventually your transmission and/or steering will break". First of all this has nothing to do with the steering so who made the comment gave you just a blah, blah to scare you to do the repair.
Yes, obviously repair is needed but I personally don't think it is as bad situation as they make it sound like. What the problem with planetary carrier I think is with the clutch pack that I understand is built into it. This clutch pack would be the center differential lock between front and rear axles. You feel the shaking / vibration at turns because that is when you generate speed difference between front and rear axles and the differential lock has to slip to allow this speed difference. The clutch pack is going bad and is not allowing for a smooth slip.
The problem obviously is that during original manufacturing the clutch pack is not lubricated properly and this is why the service bulletin specifically instructs to soak the part in oil before installation. This is to soak the clutch disk friction material so it is properly lubricated.
I don't know in detail how MB built this part. If it is built very cheap way (would be hard to believe from MB) the wearing clutch pack would allow the gear wheels shift sideways and possibly allow them to come in contact with parts they are not supposed to come in contact with. I don't believe MB would have made this kind of design so the problem really is that the friction material layers on the clutch disks are wearing and when totally worn then you get metal to metal contact that would not be good as this could cause bigger issues but even this to me does not sound really a catastrophic failure. You would not have center differential locking basically at all but in dry conditions this would not be an issue.
Found the below utube link. It is about a S-class transfer case but I believe it is built the same way on E-class.
Wow this is a great reply, thank you so much! Question though - when you say "You would not have center differential locking", what exactly would that result in? A broken transmission? Loss of 4Matic? Is this the worst that could happen?
The car is a 2014 C300, but with 195,000km. It's my understanding that in the W204 model the transfer case is attached to the transmission (and uses the same fuel) so it's harder to service.
I bought it used, it passed an inspection at MB but this was the only thing they found. I don't put in more than 5000km a year - should I pay the 1600$ + tax to fix this in your opinion?
02-24-2011, 11:58 AM
