titusrogers

I've the dreaded command control knob malfunction where the rotate doesn't work. I seen a very good video on removal and repair for the C-class ( ) doesn't look awfully hard! My issue is I can’t find a guide on how to remove the command control knob from the W212 so that it can be repaired. Can anyone point me in the right direction of a good disassembly guide for the W212. Thanks in advance.

drsaab

I have the same issue on a 2010 W212 with 73k so outta warranty. I think W212 will have the same failure rate at exactly 4 years like the C class had.

drsaab

I think these are what you need. Let me know how it goes, I need to do the same.

stale-bread

[QUOTE=drsaab;5844068]I think these are what you need. Let me know how it goes, I need to do the same.[/QUOTE

THIS is why I joined MBWorld! Great help from the community. Good luck with the swap guys.

drsaab

Well I did end up doing this today and just like the video says, it is a piece that is engineered to break in 4 years. So I think we will see alot of ppl bringing this topic up in the future. You will need a torx 10 and a 15 as well as a 8. The screw that holds the command knob in is smaller than T10. In the youtube video his is a T10 but mine was smaller. Fixing the broken shaft was not hard, just follow the video. Getting the controller out was the hard part. There is a front tab and you have to take out the front console that covers the cup holder etc. Getting that front console piece back in was real tough. I had to eventually loosen the back armrest area to push back that section so the front section could slide back into its place. This front console install/removal was the only hard part of this task.

But now i can zoom in on my navi again. There is no other way to do that once the scroll part of the knob goes bad.

pele21

Anyone have issues separating the control halves after taking out the four torx screws on bottom? I've removed the screws and something is still holding the halves together. I've checked the vid several times to ensure the four torx 10 screws were the only screws holding them, but still no luck.

C280 Sport

Very good information video here!

drsaab

when I did it, it worked just like the video. No issues. Not sure what 4 torx you mean. what time mark on the video are you stuck at, I assume at 4:15. The top knob is already off and it should just slide off.

pele21

I managed to get through the mod successfully. The issue was at 3:58 in the video. He points to the four torx #10 screws on the corner, but never addresses the six torx #10 screws that are recessed in the center of the device. There's no way he got to them with the powered drill. You need a torx #30 screw driver to get down to the screws. Later in the video when reassembling the device at 18:05 he states there is a total of ten screws and uses a torx key to tighten as opposed to a powered driver. Just a little confusing for a few people. Other than that the mod was very straight forward.

drsaab- Thanks for the ashtray housing and control panel diagrams. I needed them.

Billg67

I just completed this fix, with one issue on my part. The first attempt I think my mix of JB Weld was to weak and it failed just after I had it all reinstalled. So I pulled it out again and tried again. This time it worked like a champ. I did not have any matches, so I cut down some toothpicks to increase the surface area and coated the entire "X" pattern with it. I also extended my JB Weld coating about 3-4mm onto the main barrel. It did leave a few slight bumps but JB Weld is very easy to file down when completely set. I also used Dry Lube because I did not have any Lithium Spray handy. Now I am searching for a used unit to have a spare just in case it happens again.
Only thing I would do different in leave top knob off until after installed, all the moldings went in so much easier.
Wanted to say thanks to all in this thread, after reading every post, I felt confident I could get through it.
Also a big thanks to drsaab for the prints.
And to Scott for making the video

carsmb

Hi everyone ,I have a W212 , E350 2010 .I removed most of the area around the rotary knob , but can't remove it without removing the side bezel . I don't know how to remove the side bezel. The pdf file of the ashtray housing and control panel was not of much help. I watched the video for the W204 .But to reach the rotary switch is

Billg67

I use the Harbor Freight Nylon Molding removal tools (Not to nick molding) Or a small screwdriver will also work, but I would wrap it in a rag (Not to nick molding) The molding (Side Bezel) is fairly straight forward. Get the wedge tool underneath on one of the edges and pull outward. The clips are tough buy will come loose from console.

carsmb

Thanks Billg67, will try it on saturday

ps. do you have a pic of the wedge tool that you used ?

Billg67

[QUOTE=carsmb;6091420]Thanks Billg67, will try it on saturday

ps. do you have a pic of the wedge tool that you



Second one from right in this pic. Got photo from harbor freight tool web site. If you want to see better pic google this: Harbor Freight Tool - Trim And Molding Tool Set 5 Pc

konigstiger

http://www.harborfreight.com/nylon-p...-pc-69668.html

carsmb

thanks

silkynitro

I have a C220CDI 2009 model with a 130k and my centre control knob stopped working about 2 months ago, and I'v been on M/B customer service, and I have just had a phone call from the dealer telling me they are arranging to have a new one fitted, FREE of charge.

This is what I would expect M/B to do however, in saying that, I do appreciate them fixing it free of charge.

They really should take this up with the manufacture or give them the boot and source the control from another suppler.

thefisch

Wow, that is very gracious of them to cover that for you considering how far out of warranty you are. Do you do a lot of business with the dealer?

silkynitro

No, They only do my service about once a year as I don't do many klm these days.

I bought the car from another dealer just out side of Brisbane.

This part is not cheap here in (Australia) I was quoted just over a $1000.00 with out fitting.

I'm as happy as a pig in mud, it was just a couple of phone calls & emails and that was it just waiting on a call when they have the part in stock to have it replaced.


PS. The part that breaks in these units is the shaft this part should never break, unless the cogs at the base are all seized up and then you try and force it, even then I'd expect to strip the cogs not break the shaft.

As I said above M/B should either tell the manufacture to fix the problem or source the unit some place else, it's not as if this is a bloody cheap part, well it's not here in (Australia)

GregTR

The actual part that breaks is a cheap part. The issue is that it's a non-replaceable part and it does not have its own part number, you have to get the entire assembly replaced which is the expensive one. And this is why people resort to fixes at home with epoxy.

silkynitro

Yes I know that, that's my point, as I said, M/B should either get the manufacture up to speed and fix this problem or change supplier.

mkev

Hi All,
1st post - be gentle with me.
Does anyone have the part number for this rotary switch module for my 2008 / W204 C220 cdi. I intend trying to repair it but was just wondering how much a new one was anyway.

silkynitro

It depends where you live (Aust) the part is $1000.00 not fitted you can buy it in the US I believe for about $180-250.

I am lucky they are replacing mine for nothing when the part arrives

Cheers

Phil

mkev

Thanks to konigstiger who sent me my data card and the part number :-
A2048700779
Mercedes in the UK want £190 inc 20% tax / VAT

silkynitro

I have a 2009 C220CDI there are 2 part numbers in my manual

Have you been back to the dealer this is a manufacturing problem and should be fixed free of charge.