Replaced front brake pads on 2010 E350
06-30-2015, 07:42 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Replaced front brake pads on 2010 E350
Before I get into the nuts and bolts of the job, please take note; the W212 can come with anyone of three different types of brake setups, so I will be writing about my experience with what MB calls the split brake system used in my 2010 E350 Luxury model, it is my understanding the Sport model also comes with a split brake system but it uses pins to hold the pads in place and lastly there is a third type of brake system. If you're going to tackle the job yourself I would highly recommend that you go to ask.com and pay them about $25 for which they will email you the exact instructions right from the MB data base to change your pads, of course they will need your VIN number so they send you the right directions, it took them 2 tries before they sent me the right ones for my car.
In any case, if you have a decent working knowledge of cars in general you should give this repair a try as it really isn't as scary as you might think.
Before you start I suggest you take a look at the jack stands sold at
www.jackpointjackstands.com although these jacks aren't cheap, one use and they will pay for themselves and they are the safest jack stand made because of the way they're designed, well worth the investment especially when you're working with a 2 ton monster that will surely kill you if it isn't properly supported and MB has seen to it that they make the W212 with as few jack points as possible but these jacks will solve that.
So, jack up the drivers side front wheel first, be sure and siphon off enough brake fluid to bring the level to about half way between minimum and maximum in the brake reservoir, use a turkey gravy baster to remove the fluid and save it in a glass jar so that you can bring the level backup to max after the job is done. On my E350 there are two 14mm bolts that needed to be removed in order to remove the brake caliper, these bolts pass thru a rubber grommet, remove these two bolts and if you bought original MB brake pads they come with new bolts, if your pads didn't just reuse the ones you have. A word of caution, the brakes line hoses on my car were very short, so short that you almost have to hold the brake caliper during the entire process, I was able to set the caliper on top of the rotor but I did have to hold onto it for about 75% of the repair, not hard but just a pain. So, now that your caliper is off carefully remove both pads taking note that the pad with the spring attached goes on the inside of the caliper and the pad with the glue that is covered by a piece of paper that needs to be removed before mounting goes on the outside of the caliper. Remove the pads and then wipe out the inside of the caliper with either rubbing alcohol or Bra-Kleen, either one works fine. Also, you will need a tool that will spread the old pads before removing them so that you have enough room to fit the new pads, I found one of these tools on EBay for $20. So now that you have your new pads in your caliper and you're ready to replace the caliper back into the brake assembly gently lower the caliper back into position remembering to push the rubber grommet where the bolts pass thru outwards from the caliper otherwise the grommets will get caught on the caliper housing, if they're a little tight, push on the pad with the spring on it to open the pads wider apart to make replacing them easier and the assembly should go back in. After that replace the two bolts that pass thru the grommets and torque them to 34 lbs. of torque (factory spec. for the bolts). One thing I should have mentioned at the beginning, there is a spring that sits on the bottom of the caliper housing, that needs to be the first part removed before you start to remove the caliper and also the last part that goes back on. Also, on the passengers side of the car there is a brake sensor that is attached to the inner pad, be sure and get a new one and replace the original one, it is a very easy switch. As I mentioned at the beginning, the best and easiest way to do this job is get the MB factory directions from ask.com, I did and it was well worth it as you will have the exact directions for your model W212. Good luck.
In any case, if you have a decent working knowledge of cars in general you should give this repair a try as it really isn't as scary as you might think.
Before you start I suggest you take a look at the jack stands sold at
www.jackpointjackstands.com although these jacks aren't cheap, one use and they will pay for themselves and they are the safest jack stand made because of the way they're designed, well worth the investment especially when you're working with a 2 ton monster that will surely kill you if it isn't properly supported and MB has seen to it that they make the W212 with as few jack points as possible but these jacks will solve that.
So, jack up the drivers side front wheel first, be sure and siphon off enough brake fluid to bring the level to about half way between minimum and maximum in the brake reservoir, use a turkey gravy baster to remove the fluid and save it in a glass jar so that you can bring the level backup to max after the job is done. On my E350 there are two 14mm bolts that needed to be removed in order to remove the brake caliper, these bolts pass thru a rubber grommet, remove these two bolts and if you bought original MB brake pads they come with new bolts, if your pads didn't just reuse the ones you have. A word of caution, the brakes line hoses on my car were very short, so short that you almost have to hold the brake caliper during the entire process, I was able to set the caliper on top of the rotor but I did have to hold onto it for about 75% of the repair, not hard but just a pain. So, now that your caliper is off carefully remove both pads taking note that the pad with the spring attached goes on the inside of the caliper and the pad with the glue that is covered by a piece of paper that needs to be removed before mounting goes on the outside of the caliper. Remove the pads and then wipe out the inside of the caliper with either rubbing alcohol or Bra-Kleen, either one works fine. Also, you will need a tool that will spread the old pads before removing them so that you have enough room to fit the new pads, I found one of these tools on EBay for $20. So now that you have your new pads in your caliper and you're ready to replace the caliper back into the brake assembly gently lower the caliper back into position remembering to push the rubber grommet where the bolts pass thru outwards from the caliper otherwise the grommets will get caught on the caliper housing, if they're a little tight, push on the pad with the spring on it to open the pads wider apart to make replacing them easier and the assembly should go back in. After that replace the two bolts that pass thru the grommets and torque them to 34 lbs. of torque (factory spec. for the bolts). One thing I should have mentioned at the beginning, there is a spring that sits on the bottom of the caliper housing, that needs to be the first part removed before you start to remove the caliper and also the last part that goes back on. Also, on the passengers side of the car there is a brake sensor that is attached to the inner pad, be sure and get a new one and replace the original one, it is a very easy switch. As I mentioned at the beginning, the best and easiest way to do this job is get the MB factory directions from ask.com, I did and it was well worth it as you will have the exact directions for your model W212. Good luck.
06-30-2015, 09:31 PM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
07-01-2015, 07:47 PM
#5
No need to react like that... I mean, I didn't read it, but that's not the point.
I just think that if you took the time to put such a helpful post on a forum you would care about making it even more helpful by using paragraphs?
I wasn't trying to be rude...
I just think that if you took the time to put such a helpful post on a forum you would care about making it even more helpful by using paragraphs?
I wasn't trying to be rude...
