Transmission Service
10-18-2016, 08:51 AM
#2
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2013 E550 4Matic
Covered in my maintenance package, but I think the invoice said the whole service was about $1500 all said and done. So, A service(?) + trans flush
Edit: After thinking about it, I think the trans service happened during a B service, which was like $600-700 total. Either way, my maintenance plan paid for it, so I'm not totally sure.
Edit: After thinking about it, I think the trans service happened during a B service, which was like $600-700 total. Either way, my maintenance plan paid for it, so I'm not totally sure.
Last edited by blegthbloo; 10-18-2016 at 09:08 AM.
10-18-2016, 02:36 PM
#4
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2014 E550-sold 😩
$349 at my Mercedes Indy specialist.
10-18-2016, 04:17 PM
#5
Super Member
I did my own, with full flush, and torque converter drain. The tools, gaskets, replacement drain, fluid and filter came to about $150. The blue OEM fluid is about $20/liter from MB, but can be purchased for about half that on line. I think I needed 9 liters for the 7 speed. So it pays about $200 to DIY.
10-19-2016, 07:16 AM
#6
Senior Member
I did my own, with full flush, and torque converter drain. The tools, gaskets, replacement drain, fluid and filter came to about $150. The blue OEM fluid is about $20/liter from MB, but can be purchased for about half that on line. I think I needed 9 liters for the 7 speed. So it pays about $200 to DIY.
10-19-2016, 07:47 AM
#7
Super Member
Here's a good write up done by a very meticulous DIY: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w221...ml#post5865717
The Star is only used for reading the temp. I used an infrared heat gun, even though I have a SDS. The fill just needs 9 liters put back in. You do it in stages to fill the torque converter.
After 9 liters, allow the excess to flow out when cold. Then heat up the trans to expand the fluid by letting the car run for 10-15 minutes. Check the temp with a heat gun. Then do the final drain from the stand pipe until flow is trickling (careful, it is hot).
No magic, just wrenching.
The Star is only used for reading the temp. I used an infrared heat gun, even though I have a SDS. The fill just needs 9 liters put back in. You do it in stages to fill the torque converter.
After 9 liters, allow the excess to flow out when cold. Then heat up the trans to expand the fluid by letting the car run for 10-15 minutes. Check the temp with a heat gun. Then do the final drain from the stand pipe until flow is trickling (careful, it is hot).
No magic, just wrenching.
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10-24-2016, 08:27 PM
#8
Junior Member
In Atlanta:
Dealer $750
Independent $300 to $450
Interestingly enough everyone I spoke with said they would not drain the Torque Converter. Also, the folks I spoke with said they would not do it until 50,000 to 70,000 miles.
Finally took the car to a shop who had several repair videos online and who does quite a few 722.9 transmission repairs. He let me participate in the task.
On my 2013 there is not a good way to get the TC drain plug out without pulling the transmission. I can see why nobody does it.
At 42,000 miles we observed dirty fluid and a dirty film on the filter and pan. The mechanic said a problem he sees fairly frequently on transmissions that never get service is dirt fouling the sensors inside the transmission. He removes the valve body, cleans them and that usually fixes the complaints, but some transmissions require a rebuild which is not cheap.
In his opinion, the 722.9 is a bit more fragile than the 722.6 and under greater stress. He thinks they will go a good long time if properly serviced and he's not had one which received routine service at 40,000 back in the shop for any problems what so ever.
The service did not look hard at all. Just an inconvenient way of having to refill the transmission. When apart it did not appear to me that the transmission would be all that sensitive to fluid level being off a bit. It has a pretty good reservior.
Dealer $750
Independent $300 to $450
Interestingly enough everyone I spoke with said they would not drain the Torque Converter. Also, the folks I spoke with said they would not do it until 50,000 to 70,000 miles.
Finally took the car to a shop who had several repair videos online and who does quite a few 722.9 transmission repairs. He let me participate in the task.
On my 2013 there is not a good way to get the TC drain plug out without pulling the transmission. I can see why nobody does it.
At 42,000 miles we observed dirty fluid and a dirty film on the filter and pan. The mechanic said a problem he sees fairly frequently on transmissions that never get service is dirt fouling the sensors inside the transmission. He removes the valve body, cleans them and that usually fixes the complaints, but some transmissions require a rebuild which is not cheap.
In his opinion, the 722.9 is a bit more fragile than the 722.6 and under greater stress. He thinks they will go a good long time if properly serviced and he's not had one which received routine service at 40,000 back in the shop for any problems what so ever.
The service did not look hard at all. Just an inconvenient way of having to refill the transmission. When apart it did not appear to me that the transmission would be all that sensitive to fluid level being off a bit. It has a pretty good reservior.
10-24-2016, 11:22 PM
#9
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
I think if you DIY, it may depend on what kind of transmission you have and the type of fluid you're using. I think the early models used ATF 134 and later models used ATF 134FE. I got some Shell ATF from a shell distributor for around $60 for a case of 12 quarts. I think the ATF 134FE may be more, but not sure how much it is.
10-24-2016, 11:29 PM
#10
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2010 e550 p2
I think if you DIY, it may depend on what kind of transmission you have and the type of fluid you're using. I think the early models used ATF 134 and later models used ATF 134FE. I got some Shell ATF from a shell distributor for around $60 for a case of 12 quarts. I think the ATF 134FE may be more, but not sure how much it is.
Otherwise id love to do it , DIYs for life
10-25-2016, 10:43 AM
#11
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2010 E350 Luxury Sedan, Engine 272 (V6)
$525 at MB dealer including labor, parts and supplies. Labor was $322. Had it done while getting an A service since had never been done due to very low mileage.
10-25-2016, 12:44 PM
#12
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Ok, I called the local Shell distributor. It was $65.25 for a case of 12 quarts of Shell ATF 134 FE. Much better than the $20+ a quart at the MB dealer. There was only one distributor listed for my state, but they had multiple locations once I went on the distributor's website.
http://www.shell.us/business-custome...RzL3B1YmxpYy8=
http://www.shell.us/business-custome...RzL3B1YmxpYy8=
10-25-2016, 09:30 PM
#13
Super Member
For those of you that have done this, I am curious in your honest opinion how important the "perfectly level" part is? I have access to a shop with lifts, my STAR computer, and the pump to replace the fluid once I've dropped the pan.
My issue is that I'm not 100% sure how precisely leveled the lifts are in the shop. I'm sure they are close, but I haven't taken a bubble level over and actually checked. I presume that drain, drop the pain, follow the instructions, monitor the amount drained, and replace the 9 liters that should have come out... Do I need to try and adjust/level the pads on the lift to as near perfection as possible, or in real world instances is typical subtle differences acceptable?
My issue is that I'm not 100% sure how precisely leveled the lifts are in the shop. I'm sure they are close, but I haven't taken a bubble level over and actually checked. I presume that drain, drop the pain, follow the instructions, monitor the amount drained, and replace the 9 liters that should have come out... Do I need to try and adjust/level the pads on the lift to as near perfection as possible, or in real world instances is typical subtle differences acceptable?
10-26-2016, 05:53 AM
#14
Super Member
If you want my opinion, the level is not that important. The MB instructions alone saying when to plug the drain are subjective. They just want the flow to stop gushing, but not drip, drip, drip.
I remember the drain being near the middle fore/aft, so the level is not critical. Bring some shims to level the car if that concerns you. The shop has all the tools you need to do the job right.
You must consider that this fluid level varies widely depending on temp. This is why they want the fluid to operating temp before measuring. It's much lower when cold.
Most important to me is to use the right fluid, keep it clean, use good filters and gaskets, new stretch bolts, and drain as much old fluid as possible. These steps will make the mechanicals happy inside more than 2mm of fluid difference.
Last, don't worry too much about measuring precisely the fluid removed. You just need to overfill and then drain the excess. The point is, don't overfill by 2 quarts, better to be 1/2 quart.
I remember the drain being near the middle fore/aft, so the level is not critical. Bring some shims to level the car if that concerns you. The shop has all the tools you need to do the job right.
You must consider that this fluid level varies widely depending on temp. This is why they want the fluid to operating temp before measuring. It's much lower when cold.
Most important to me is to use the right fluid, keep it clean, use good filters and gaskets, new stretch bolts, and drain as much old fluid as possible. These steps will make the mechanicals happy inside more than 2mm of fluid difference.
Last, don't worry too much about measuring precisely the fluid removed. You just need to overfill and then drain the excess. The point is, don't overfill by 2 quarts, better to be 1/2 quart.
Last edited by kbob999; 10-26-2016 at 05:57 AM. Reason: Fluid measurements
10-26-2016, 11:32 PM
#15
Super Member
If you want my opinion, the level is not that important. The MB instructions alone saying when to plug the drain are subjective. They just want the flow to stop gushing, but not drip, drip, drip.
I remember the drain being near the middle fore/aft, so the level is not critical. Bring some shims to level the car if that concerns you. The shop has all the tools you need to do the job right.
You must consider that this fluid level varies widely depending on temp. This is why they want the fluid to operating temp before measuring. It's much lower when cold.
Most important to me is to use the right fluid, keep it clean, use good filters and gaskets, new stretch bolts, and drain as much old fluid as possible. These steps will make the mechanicals happy inside more than 2mm of fluid difference.
Last, don't worry too much about measuring precisely the fluid removed. You just need to overfill and then drain the excess. The point is, don't overfill by 2 quarts, better to be 1/2 quart.
I remember the drain being near the middle fore/aft, so the level is not critical. Bring some shims to level the car if that concerns you. The shop has all the tools you need to do the job right.
You must consider that this fluid level varies widely depending on temp. This is why they want the fluid to operating temp before measuring. It's much lower when cold.
Most important to me is to use the right fluid, keep it clean, use good filters and gaskets, new stretch bolts, and drain as much old fluid as possible. These steps will make the mechanicals happy inside more than 2mm of fluid difference.
Last, don't worry too much about measuring precisely the fluid removed. You just need to overfill and then drain the excess. The point is, don't overfill by 2 quarts, better to be 1/2 quart.
