Kleemann 2003 G55 Project - S/C!!
10-05-2012, 11:44 PM
#77
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Thread Starter
More findings today.
Voltage does a steady increase as RPM increases and maxes out at less than 4.8V. At least that's one test out of the way :-) I was using an analogue tester so I couldn't see the exact value. It definitely didn't hit 4.8 though.
I also switched the plugs for the switchover valve and the #5 fuel injector. Immediately upon start up I noticed a big misfire and check engine light. So, it was hooked up properly the first time around. That's another test out of the way
I cleared the code at another indy shop I go to that specializes in MB and BMW but do not do mods (strictly standard servicing and replacement of OEM parts). I asked them for use of their Star Diagnostics. Ran a diagnostic check and no fault codes. I'm just getting slight misfires at idle in all the cylinders but Cory at Kleemann mentioned there could be slight misfires at idle due to the new plugs so that didn't worry me.
I got copies of some of the diagnostic screens including Lambda at idle, Engine check at cold start and warm up phase, Engine smooth running check of all cylinders. Lambda at idle is all over the place though. Does this suggest a vacuum leak somewhere? I'm getting sawing/hunting up and down of the engine before it normalizes with misfires. The cold start sound is a lot better now as well in terms of sound.
I need to check for air leaks near the intake elbow after the maf. This seems to cause hunting/sawing in other cars. Might be the same with this car?
Getting there, slowly but surely.
The car drives a little better now though. I suppose the ECU is still adapting and I also suppose the air leak somewhere may be causing this. Power is definitely there, just not ALL there.
More updates soon.
Voltage does a steady increase as RPM increases and maxes out at less than 4.8V. At least that's one test out of the way :-) I was using an analogue tester so I couldn't see the exact value. It definitely didn't hit 4.8 though.
I also switched the plugs for the switchover valve and the #5 fuel injector. Immediately upon start up I noticed a big misfire and check engine light. So, it was hooked up properly the first time around. That's another test out of the way
I cleared the code at another indy shop I go to that specializes in MB and BMW but do not do mods (strictly standard servicing and replacement of OEM parts). I asked them for use of their Star Diagnostics. Ran a diagnostic check and no fault codes. I'm just getting slight misfires at idle in all the cylinders but Cory at Kleemann mentioned there could be slight misfires at idle due to the new plugs so that didn't worry me.
I got copies of some of the diagnostic screens including Lambda at idle, Engine check at cold start and warm up phase, Engine smooth running check of all cylinders. Lambda at idle is all over the place though. Does this suggest a vacuum leak somewhere? I'm getting sawing/hunting up and down of the engine before it normalizes with misfires. The cold start sound is a lot better now as well in terms of sound.
I need to check for air leaks near the intake elbow after the maf. This seems to cause hunting/sawing in other cars. Might be the same with this car?
Getting there, slowly but surely.
The car drives a little better now though. I suppose the ECU is still adapting and I also suppose the air leak somewhere may be causing this. Power is definitely there, just not ALL there.
More updates soon.
Last edited by BonitaBeast; 10-05-2012 at 11:47 PM.
10-06-2012, 04:58 PM
#78
Senior Member
Thread Starter
To do list first thing in the morning:
Check 3 vacuum lines from intake manifold leading to
1.) EGR Valve
2.) MAP sensor
3.) Air injection Electric switchover valve
I have a strong suspicion one of these lines is pinched or leaking....
Oh, a/c is now working. Just got a fresh charge of freon and it seems to be ok for now.
Check 3 vacuum lines from intake manifold leading to
1.) EGR Valve
2.) MAP sensor
3.) Air injection Electric switchover valve
I have a strong suspicion one of these lines is pinched or leaking....
Oh, a/c is now working. Just got a fresh charge of freon and it seems to be ok for now.
Last edited by BonitaBeast; 10-25-2012 at 06:08 PM.
10-06-2012, 05:16 PM
#79
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00 C200 & 00 C55 & 06 SLK55
Good to hear A/C back to the Action again....
,,
How the car acts if you disconnect the MAP sensor & start the car again, did you try that......??
ZAYED,,
,,How the car acts if you disconnect the MAP sensor & start the car again, did you try that......??
ZAYED,,
10-06-2012, 05:28 PM
#80
Senior Member
Thread Starter
That will be part of my series of tests I'll be doing this morning. Just waiting for the sun to come up here in the Philippines so I can go out and ride for a bit. Then it's back to business of finding the idling issue!!!
10-07-2012, 12:18 AM
#81
Senior Member
Thread Starter
A bit of good news!!!
I found that the MAP sensor vacuum line was pinched. I tried to relieve the pinch as best I could without removing the wiring harness causing the pinch. Now the car is idling closer to how it's supposed to be idling. It could be better if I redo the line completely I think. There's still a bit of a restriction left in the line I believe. But for now, this did the trick.
Here's where the pinched hoses were hooked up to - Air Switch over Valve and MAP sensor
MAP sensor:
Air Switchover Valve:
Took it for a spin and the ECU seems to have adjusted nicely. The car is running stronger now but the exhaust leak just sucks.
Only now, I seem to have an gasket leak between the headers and the downpipe.
Anyone know if I can use a standard gasket on here or do I need a Kleemann specific gasket?
Almost there!!
Here's a quick clip of the leak and how the car is idling a lot better than how it previously was.
Here's a picture of the source of the leak. Driver's side header/downpipe joint. I don't think there's supposed to be anything in between but I see something in there.....
I found that the MAP sensor vacuum line was pinched. I tried to relieve the pinch as best I could without removing the wiring harness causing the pinch. Now the car is idling closer to how it's supposed to be idling. It could be better if I redo the line completely I think. There's still a bit of a restriction left in the line I believe. But for now, this did the trick.
Here's where the pinched hoses were hooked up to - Air Switch over Valve and MAP sensor
MAP sensor:
Air Switchover Valve:
Took it for a spin and the ECU seems to have adjusted nicely. The car is running stronger now but the exhaust leak just sucks.
Only now, I seem to have an gasket leak between the headers and the downpipe.
Anyone know if I can use a standard gasket on here or do I need a Kleemann specific gasket?
Almost there!!
Here's a quick clip of the leak and how the car is idling a lot better than how it previously was.
Here's a picture of the source of the leak. Driver's side header/downpipe joint. I don't think there's supposed to be anything in between but I see something in there.....
Last edited by BonitaBeast; 10-07-2012 at 11:05 AM.
10-08-2012, 03:25 AM
#83
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Update: So it looks like the installer of the headers and downpipes put the wrong type of gasket between the headers and downpipes. It's supposed to be a metal type of o-ring gasket and they put another type and I just burned right through it so now a space remains between the two flanges. Grrrrrrreat....
Now the question remains whether I need a specific metal O-ring from Kleemann or is there a standard size steel o-ring that I can use.
On a side note, we were able to make a permanent fix for the pinched air hoses today. The wiring harness that runs in front of the supercharger was constricting the two airhoses from the intake manifold to the MAP and switchover valve.
While we're in there again, I'm also changing the fuel line hoses to a higher rated (400psi) type of fuel hose and new clamps. I was worried about the number of times I had to reconfigure the lines because of installer error!! This could cause leaks at the joints and t connections and the hose that was used was just of inferior quality.
Hoping to get an metal o-ring gasket by tomorrow if I can source a set locally. If not, I will have to put back the old headers and downpipes and order a set of o-rings from Kleemann.
Now the question remains whether I need a specific metal O-ring from Kleemann or is there a standard size steel o-ring that I can use.
On a side note, we were able to make a permanent fix for the pinched air hoses today. The wiring harness that runs in front of the supercharger was constricting the two airhoses from the intake manifold to the MAP and switchover valve.
While we're in there again, I'm also changing the fuel line hoses to a higher rated (400psi) type of fuel hose and new clamps. I was worried about the number of times I had to reconfigure the lines because of installer error!! This could cause leaks at the joints and t connections and the hose that was used was just of inferior quality.
Hoping to get an metal o-ring gasket by tomorrow if I can source a set locally. If not, I will have to put back the old headers and downpipes and order a set of o-rings from Kleemann.
10-08-2012, 03:04 PM
#84
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here's the exact type of gasket I need to go between the header and downpipe.
Turns out to be far from an O-ring!!
I need to stop by the Audi parts counter first thing this morning.
Turns out to be far from an O-ring!!
I need to stop by the Audi parts counter first thing this morning.
10-08-2012, 05:17 PM
#85
MBWorld Fanatic!
So what I don't understand is how many more issues will be on your car that you didn't catch? This was quite a complex upgrade that you did and seems to be way too big of a headache. Sorry to worry you, but who knows what else wasn't done correctly next week or down the road.
10-08-2012, 06:15 PM
#86
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Thread Starter
I kinda expected this could happen before getting into this project. So I'll just need to see it through and be done with it. I know it seems like a lot and complex and what not but in actuality it's not really. It's really more a matter of the installers following instructions but apparently that's difficult for some people to do.
The parts on the install that could have been installed incorrectly have already showed themselves. These are things that tend to show themselves on the first couple of test drives or start ups. Now I'm also checking and rechecking ALL connections, clamp, hose connections, bolts, torque specs. etc.
Hopefully that's it. Then I can enjoy the beast finally!
The parts on the install that could have been installed incorrectly have already showed themselves. These are things that tend to show themselves on the first couple of test drives or start ups. Now I'm also checking and rechecking ALL connections, clamp, hose connections, bolts, torque specs. etc.
Hopefully that's it. Then I can enjoy the beast finally!
10-08-2012, 08:18 PM
#87
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2021 G63, 2016 S550, 2019 RR 👻
[QUOTE=BonitaBeast;5384799]Here are shots of how the truck looks out of the shop:
Looks Killer. How do you get away with that windshield tint?? Im contemplating whether to do it or not
Looks Killer. How do you get away with that windshield tint?? Im contemplating whether to do it or not
10-08-2012, 09:27 PM
#89
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Thread Starter
Yup it's legal here. It looks a lot darker from the outside though. The sides are super dark. I don't know percentage wise, but it's dark. The front is not dark at all but because the sides are so dark, the front looks dark from outside.
10-11-2012, 04:30 AM
#91
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10-11-2012, 04:38 AM
#93
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10-11-2012, 05:47 AM
#95
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10-11-2012, 08:40 AM
#96
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Since today was just spent waiting for the gaskets to arrive, I cleaned up the engine compartment a bit. I had the bleeder hose extended and routed under the intake funnel on the passenger side. If you notice, the previous pictures show the hose running over the intake funnel. It didn't really look too nice that the Kleemann engine cover was installed right over it.
Here is the hose on the left side of the photo going straight into the white plastic t-connector that hooks up the bleeder hose from the radiator to the coolant reservoir:
Here is the hose on the left side of the photo going straight into the white plastic t-connector that hooks up the bleeder hose from the radiator to the coolant reservoir:
Last edited by BonitaBeast; 10-11-2012 at 08:47 AM.
10-12-2012, 09:40 AM
#99
Senior Member
