philip12

Not sure if the rear mounting plate for the license plate is the same on the GL as on the ML, but,,, I have a 2008 ml350, and this weekend noticed that the (4) philips head screws that holds the license plate to the stainless steel plate bracket mounted to the tailgate are too long, even with the license plate frame in place. The screws actually contact the painted surface of the lift gate. I took off the license plate, and the stainless steel plate bracket, and sure enough, the screws are marking the paint on the liftgate. I am sure after a time of road vibration, the paint and primer will be gone, and the exposed metal of the lift gate will start to rust. I put 2 stainless steel lock washers under the screw head on each screw, this kept the screw from going in so far, and now it can not hit the lift gate. What happened to the engineers that build these things? if I noticed this, why would it slip by them? If these screws are supplied by the dealership, rather then the factory I can understand the oversight.

mbslk350

The screws are supplied by the dealers and this is not an uncommon issue. Unfortunately, a few of us have had this experience.

cjh.

I can't stand when dealers do crap like that. If I were you, I would ask the dealer to install some that fit.

The only thing wrong with my bolts it that they rust.

Nevada Jack

These are usually dealer supplied and they do have at least 2 size screws. I know that FJ's when they put my rear plate on my '06 S430 they tried to use the long one. I was there as the guy was starting and I told him the screw was too long. He looked at me like what do you know. When he persisted to proceed I told him to give me the plate. I took it inside and the salesman opened his drawer and it was full of license plate screws...he picked out 4 short ones and installed the plate himself!

I checked my GL and although I cannot really see behind the plate, there is clearance with a piece of cardboard so I do not have your problem. Also, knowing the dealer I am confident it would not happen.

lkchris

Give me a break--this is stupidity at the dealership, nothing more.

The Alabama cars are different than the Euro cars, which could use inch-long screws if necessary.

I suppose the Alabama design is better, as the screws don't penetrate the tailgate like the screws on the cars penetrate the trunk lid.

fmr

I was installing my plates this friday with new (non-dealer frames) and did notice this. While there is some clearance between end of bolts and body in th erear it seemed the dealer might have applied some pressure when mounting the plate holder and pushed the ends of the bolts into the body leaving an indententation. I was much more aggravated at the front plate holder (required here in NJ) where the dealer seems to have eye balled the installation of the plate holder and screwed 4 screws directly into the bumper one of which was put in at an agle making for a very messy installation. Any change will now require filling in the hole and paint work. I am very picky about these things and its really annoying when dealer does not take the time to do these things right. Unfortunately there is no going back.

scottybdiving

I sympathize with you. My dealer did not install my plates since they are 3 hours away. I did it myself and wasn't crazy about drilling holes in the front bumper. They said they didn't install the bracket because some people choose to run without it, illegally here I might add.

fmr

On a few of my previous cars I have asked the dealer not to install the front plate holder to keep the bumper very pristine, illegal here as well. However on the GL it was at the dealer and already had the plate holder installed. Looking at the install after the fact seems like the dealer did not even bother to predrill the holes, they just screwed the screws right into the bumper letting the screws do the work. Oh well, just need to try and forget it as hopefully I will not have to touch the plates any more.

midnightz

We told the dealer NOT to install license plate frames and they were not on while we went over the car. Somehow, the rear got installed before we drove away...

All four screws were too long and marked the paint! Photo showing after we took the stainless bracket off.

Kaumajet

Wow, I'm just walking back into my office after a trip to the dealer for this very problem. I found the same problem on my new GL this weekend All four screws have drilled their way right through the bloody paint. I replaced them with shorter socket-head stainless screws.

I have to agree with lkchris - this is pure stupidity on the installer's part. I cannot imagine doing this without noticing the screws were fouling on the car body. Inexcusable.

bselph

After reading this thread, I went out to look at my plate and sure enough I have screws that are too long. I picked up my car 2 weeks ago and the rear plate was swapped by the salesman while I was filling out paper work. Back to the dealer for touch-up paint!

MKW

Show it to your sales person - they should COMP you the touch up paint .

StevethePilot

IMHO, they should COMP professional paint restoration services, as "touch up paint" will hardly equal what was paid for and damaged by them.

Kaumajet

That's what my dealer will be doing, but they don't know it yet.

MKW

OTOH, I'd rather just touch up those four tiny basically hidden "points " myself . You know how it goes , body shop will have to spray a wide area and there could be paint overspray, the hatch's release latch won't feel the same after they remove and reinstall it, the paint won't match when you look critically at it from the side ....but the shop guy will say it's fine and they're done .

Brocktoon

Amen!

StevethePilot

Or, they could apply a small amount of paint (like touchup paint) in just the areas it's needed, do a quick micro-color-sand, buff it, clearcoat it, buff the clearcoat, and then be done, without removing a thing.

Years ago, my first Lexus was an SC400, Barolo Red (I think they called it - a magnificent metallic deep red, almost an oxblood color they no longer carry). When I got it, there were swirl marks all over the car. I argued for some time about the fact that I wanted what I paid for, a new car with proper paint. At one point, the district manager met me at the service drive and said, "What do you want me to do to make the paint right?" My response should have been, "I really don't care what you do to make it right, other than giving me the car I paid for with the paint I paid for." Instead, I whimped out and told them to detail it and try and get the swirls out.

I'm not a paint expert, but was much less so then, so how the heck would I know what would make the paint right? I defer to experts. I don't apply "touch up" paint because no matter what I do it looks like white-out on the car.

STP

oaybar007

Hate to bring this thread back but unfortunately I have this problem on my c300.

Two incorrect, non-oem screws installed on the rear when I bought the car went straight through the trunk lid.

My dealer has agreed to fix it, but I'm just curious as to how others have approached the repair.

Did you have your trunk lids repainted or was it a bit more simple of a fix like a spot repair?

Unbelievable that this stuff can happen!

alx

To the op. You can't recognize a good thing when you see it- can you

Be thankful to the piston gods that you were able to remove the screws without spinning the junky backing plates in the trunk lid. When that happens- you have to tear apart the trunk lid.

urquattro83

I purchased my Quartz Blue '10 C300 4Matic (with 18,200 miles on the clock) on May 15, from a Subaru dealer, and someone had installed SELF-TAPPING screws to secure the dealer plate frames to the car!!!!

So, will someone please confirm complete specifications for the front and rear license plate fasteners?

Thank you!