N_Jay

I am starting my search for a GL diesel at the lower end of the price range.

In looking at 2007 vs. 2008: What, if anything, do I need to what for, watch out for?

In looking at 60 to 90K vehicles vs. 90 to 150K vehicles, same question?

What about a 2009, but with higher miles?? (Pro/Con?)

I will be using it for towing (4000 - 5000 LB camper trailer), with not a lot of miles per year (Estimate 4k to 8k).

Does not need to be "pretty", will take a solid car with a few scratches and door dings over a perfect paint job that has been dent repaired, touched up, and polished twice a year.

Thoughts, suggestions, etc. ? ? ? ? ? ?

bha

I just went through the exact same search you did, and ended up with a 2007 GL320.

Here are some tips:
-There is a lot of discussion about it, but the consensus seems to be to stick with an 07 or 08 to avoid the AdBlue complexities (runflat tires, filling adblue in the tank, etc.)

-If you want a specific color combo, these are VERY hard to find if you want something on the lower end of the price range. I looked for 2 months and all I wanted was a 2007 GL320 that was black and had at least the P1 package PLUS at least one or two other options (rear DVD, trailer hitch, etc.). I wanted everything, but figured that would be impossible to find.

-I found only one vehicle under $29,999 that was black, and it had something like 180,000 miles on it. Every other vehicle was $30k minimum. And we're talking about a search with 80,000 miles or more only! Lower mileage ones were even more money!

-Won't post publicly what I paid but I feel I got a good deal. Ended up with a one-owner, black/macadamia 2007 GL320. Had every service record since new, and had 109,000 miles on it. The extended warranty had just expired. The owner was **** and brought the car in for every little trim piece, squeak, noise, etc. I know this because the dealership that I bought it from was the original selling/servicing dealer, and the service manager knew who the owner was. Service mgr said "I'll give you some advice.. we see a lot of GL's and this guy's GL is one of the only ones I'd personally buy!" I got the trailer hitch, P1/P2, rear seat DVD's, full leather, 3-zone A/C, Harmon/Kardon Logic7, and a few other items. PM me if you want price details on what I paid.

-KEEP LOOKING till you find the one you want. Don't settle. You'll hate yourself for buying one without the options you wanted!

-2007 and 2008 are virtually identical. So buy the 2007 because it's cheaper

-Mileage means LITTLE on these trucks. Yes, they need to be well maintained. But my truck has 109k and I have told EVERYONE it has 30k and nobody has blinked an eye. I am very critical of cars and it looks pretty much brand new to me.

-Do you mean you'll drive 4k-8k a year total, or you're just towing for the 4-8k? If you are seriously only going to drive 4-8k a year total, buy a GAS one! The $30k Gl320 is virtually identical to a GL450 that you can pick up for $24k. Save the $6k+ and put aside a small chunk of it for additional gas money for the GL450. You'll save a HUGE chunk of money... diesels are for people putting lots of miles on the truck!

-If you need any help, I have every detail of a 2007 GL memorized now as I researched LOTS of stuff when buying mine I can tell you what options are useful, which ones to avoid, etc, etc, etc.

N_Jay

PM sent,

So the 2007 does not have any nagging first year issues?

Also, does anyone know when the next gen change will happen, as that will drop the price on the first gen models. Oops, just saw it is 2013. I guess in a few months it will be time to buy.

N_Jay

How does this one stack up?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-...item2574facb93

dgiturbo

I would verify that the vehicle has all the features advertised. Eg. Xenon lights will have headlamp washers in the front bumper, and leather usually requires Burl Walnut wood trim. (Darker wood) That way you don't price in these options when you offer. I see lots of these MB products being advertised with packages and options that don't appear in vehicle the photos.
Otherwise, verify that the hitch and the turbo intercooler hose recalls were completed, and the transmission had its fluid flushed as prescribed.

FastMoneyPlaya

As an owner of a 2011 GL350, I'm glad to see the prices of used diesels are holding up so well. Personally, if I was a buyer of a 2007-8 model, I don't think I could bring myself to pay $28K for one with 95K miles and no warranty. If you think about it, you can buy a 2012 with no miles for about $60K right (assuming $10K off sticker - i paid $7K off sticker a year ago, but they are cheaper now)... Normally, a used vehicle would depreciate about 70-80% after 5yrs and 95K miles, but the 2007's seem to have only depreciated about 60% from new... To me, it seems like buying a 2012 at a steep discount is a better deal. You can finance it if you don't have $60K to spend, but in the long run it's a better deal. Another thing to factor in is the 2007 will eventually have problems, and they will be very expensive to fix. A new one has a warranty, so won't cost as much to run. If you buy a used one with 100K, the odds are you will have a $4-5K repair within a couple of years - could be anything - transmission, exhaust/catalytic, etc... If you could get the 2007 for $20K, then it would be worth it, but high 20's is no bargain.

bha

I had the EXACT same dilemma when buying my truck as you mention!

The issue I had was the cost difference for what I didn't personally see as a huge difference in cars (yes, even with 100,000 miles)

Both my 2007 and a 2012 would be maintained up to "perfect" condition per MB standards. Mine was gone over with a fine toothed comb before I bought it (by an MB dealer) and anything worn was replaced. So yes there would be internal wear (ie. power steering pump, transmission, etc.) but anything visibly worn would be replaced.

Tires were new and brakes were new, so that's the same on both trucks.

Diesel engine is good for hundreds of thousands of miles. So other than the electronic items and cheap to replace small parts, 100,000 miles vs. 0 really shouldn't make a difference over the long haul. If I sell the truck with 250,000 miles or I sell mine with 350,000 miles, it's still an old worthless truck at that point!

My truck had $15-17k in options over the base model. Need to account for that too!

Cost at the time I looked was $65k vs. $28k. That's almost $40k and not accounting for all of the options! I didn't want to borrow it and pay interest on that $40k for a number of years.. I could end up spending another $5k in interest making the difference $45k!

Older ones are easier to find used parts for. If I crack a passenger mirror, need a bumper cover, or want to buy a used set of roof rails, these parts all exist for a 2007 on eBay. I buy most of my parts used where possible, so this is much better for me.

The 60 pages of service records that came from my truck (MANY of them were customer-paid!) prove that you'll start spending a bunch of $$$ even on a new truck!! The guy paid for everything from bluetooth module (he paid $500, I got it included with the truck) to replacement parts for things that broke/fell off the truck and weren't covered under warranty. He paid for brake flushes, brakes, tires, belts, and a whole whack of other stuff. At the time he bought the truck, those parts were "dealer only". I can buy them from AutohausAZ for 1/10 to 1/5 of the cost!

I did seriously consider buying new, but the factors above led me to believe that I was saving approx $50k in the end. And when both trucks hit high mileage, they might have a $10k difference in resale value.

No disrespect to anyone who is buying a new one of these, but I thought it made financial sense to go used. Yes, you're not getting 70, 80 or 90% off the list price, but look at it this way:

Compare a $28k GL320 CDI to anything else you can buy for $28k. A one-year old Explorer Limited costs that ($35k new). Have you driven a Ford lately? (pun intended...) The Explorer is nice but the GL is TWICE the truck you get for that price.

Even at the "high" price of $28k, I feel like I got a smoking deal. My neighbour paid more than that for a base model Murano and it's like a tin can.

N_Jay

Well put.

We bought a 2 1/2 year old '07 E350 P2 for $28.5k, with 42K miles.
That is about the same price as a new Accord, if we did not go crazy with options.

In 150k miles we would either have an accord with 150k or a E350 with 192K miles.

In 1991, we bought an '89 Range Rover for $24K, that was exactly the same as an Eddie Bauer Explorer that year. Four years later it was totalled in a rollover; (wife, kids and parents were all OK)
Allstate paid only $4k less than I paid.
If it was the Explorer, I would be lucky to get 1/2 that (and probably funeral expenses).
Went out and added back in the $4k and got a '91. Drove it till 03 and 160K miles.

FastMoneyPlaya

I have always bought my cars either new or CPO 2-3yrs old with 35K miles. I always drive them to 120K before trading in. In every case, I start having major repairs at 110K+ miles. For example, my 1996 Volvo 850R was great until about 115K miles when the turbo went. The car would run fine until you stepped on it and the turbo kicked in - then it was a cloud of smoke from burning oil. That would have been thousands to fix, but I traded it in for a Land Rover LR3. The LR3 was terrible after it hit 100K - air suspension pump broke ($2K), heated seats stopped working ($700), rear gate lock broke ($500), some other random electrical problem ($1K). My 1998 BMW 540i was great until 110K miles when the clutch was almost completely shot and the dealer wanted $7K to replace the clutch and transmission assembly (I traded it in for an Audi S5 instead). Literally every 6 months or so, something would break and it was $1K to fix. Including the temperature control unit which was an $1,100 part (which you have to buy from BMW since nobody makes an aftermarket part).

Maybe you will have better luck with the Mercedes, but just keep in mind a couple of major repairs could add up if you have bad luck. If you can get a really good deal on a used one, then it's worth it. But like I said, $28K for a 5yr old vehicle with 95K miles doesn't seem like a steal. Maybe you can find one with an extended factory warranty for that much?

a2j

We bought 2008 because...
2007 is the first year there were released so it could have some bugs.
2009+ does not have a spare and you have to fill it with diesel exhaust fluid.

To me, usability comes first. Options and looks, second.

N_Jay

If you don't mind me asking, where are you and about what did you pay. (Mileage and options, etc.)

a2j

Total with tax was ~$30k. It had 62k miles. Lots of options, but I don't have a complete list. Local dealer is asking $42k for a very similar model but different color. We bought ours 1200mi from home.

FastMoneyPlaya

$42K is highway robbery for a 2008 with 62K considering you can get a 2012 GL350 with P2 for about $60K with 0K miles...

N_Jay

"asking" prices are always a bit funny, but seems like 30 to 35 is the sweet spot.

Now, as soon as my daughter stops mooching off me, and a get the little raise I am expecting, we will be buying. (assuming the Honda Pilot does not force my hand any sooner.)

43221B

FYI, when comparing different model years, make sure you know what is in the Premium packages for those specific model years. They vary significantly from year to year. Some years, a GL with a P1 package has more options than a GL with a P2 package from a different year. Mercedes seemed to drop more items off their premium packages in each successive year to sell them a la carte.

aeggroup

I agree, but it's only temporarily while dealers have money back from MB. As soon as dealers will clean out their inventory and new models will come in - prices will go up again. MRSP of 2013 GL is more expensive than previous years and it will bring used GL's up as well.

N_Jay

Maybe not by much if at all.

Usually a new generation model will decrease the value of the previous generation a little bit.

Used 12's may bounce a bit one the new 12's sell out, but I would expect 07's through '11s to take a small hit as they are compared to the newer model.

N_Jay

The search is starting to get serious.

Assuming my review comes with a raise, I will be looking to buy Jan/Feb/Mar.

Probably will be searching the whole country so will be looking for recommendations on shops to pre-inspect for me.

aeggroup

Where are you located ? I'm selling mine, it's 2011 with 17k miles. Mint condition loaded truck. PM me if you interested.

N_Jay

I'm in the Chicago are, but travel to NYC and Del a good bit. Would go to FL or TX to find the right car.

My guess is that yours is out of my price range.

I am looking between about $25K and $33K

HamMan

Maybe look at an R320

Same motor, smoother ride, lower price.

N_Jay

And it tows how much?

N_Jay

As I look, wondering if there is anything I should be looking for with a higher mileage car? (eg. 125k to 150k)

Sort of assuming if the car looks good, the miles were probably more highway and hence a bit less wear then around town.
Mighty also bring an 08 down to the price of a slightly lower mileage 07, cutting off some wear from time.

Thoughts?

a2j

See if you can look at the history of the car. Services that were done, parts that were replaced, etc.
Just to have an idea. 150k miles for a diesel is not a lot at all.

N_Jay

How about the rest of the vehicle?
How is it holding up in the long run? (assuming normal maintenance and no abuse)

I found one with leaking air-suspension?
I hear it is a an easy fix and not the uncommon.

Thinking; if it is common and I get one that needs fixing, at least I know it was done, and not about to be needed?