N_Jay

I am getting ready to replace the turbo seal when I change my air filters and have a few questions.

There seems to be a lot of threads on the subject, but I have not found a good set of instructions and/or pictures.
Does anyone now of a good set or maybe a youtube video?

Second, I am contemplating adding a ProVent 200 (Maybe a ProVent 150 if space is tight) to the crankcase vent system to keep oil out of the intake from now on.
http://cdn.applicationassociates.com/1268249421_67.pdf

Has anyone done this on a V6 CDI? Any good suggestions on where to run the oil return line?

KrustyKustom

NJay, are you talking about the turbo seal between the intake and turbo? (orange silicon). It is not too difficult to change out if so. Changing your air filters means you already have the hard part done.


I have not seen the Pro Vent before. Any idea on cost or where to buy? I think there is a evap line going to both sides of the intake so two inlets would be cool. It would be interesting to see if this prolonged egr valve life. Surely it would help with the intake clogging up over time.

N_Jay

Yes, that is the seal, when you replace it, is there any other seals you should do at teh same time?

I have not dug into the replacement yet.

Seems everything about this car makes me nervous.

Heck, I used to build engines for my Jeeps and Porsches, but they were always "extra" cars. This is my daily driver so if I am missing a part or break something I am SOL for a few days.

KrustyKustom

NJay, no biggie. If you can change out a radiator hose you can change it. It has some little tabs that align it to the intake and the turbo, it can only go one way from side to side as it has a stepped lip. I would use some spray silicone to slide it on and maybe new clamps as well.

Have you done the air filters before. they are a bit of a trick especially the drivers side (US version). No biggie just different.

How many miles on your diesel?

N_Jay

I bought it well maintained with 96K miles and now coming up on 106K.

I have not done the air filters yet. Are they that bad even if you are disassembling the intake to do the seal?

I had to change the glow plug controller when I first got it.
I had my dealer do a service and give it a once over.
They did the belt as it looks fairly old.
I put on new rear pads. Was going to do rotors, but could not get enough leverage on the caliper bracket bolts on with the car on a jack, so they will go on with the next pad change.
I have to change the flex joint. I have the parts, just have to decide to spend an hour or so on my back under the truck on jack stands. The dealer recommended it, but the picture he sent did not look too bad, so I am waiting for some motivation.

I want to get the seal changed, as it has gone into limp twice now, and I assume the flapper motor on the intake manifold is starting to get too much oil on it.

N_Jay

Do they every leak from the output side (bad o ring)?

Seems that the intake is normally not under pressure, but the output side is.

Is it worth replacing the o ring on the output while doing the input seal?

alx

if you are not leaking oil from the bottom of the seal i would leave it alone.

not all orange seals are bad.

N_Jay

But I won't know where the oil is coming from until I have it apart.
Unless there is an easy way to see.

KrustyKustom

The output side would be a whole different animal. Big job on the back side, and I would not do it unless it was throwing a manifold pressure issue code.


On mine the dealer changed the fuel filter under recall and had to remove the intake. When I went in and replaced my air filters I found that they had way over tightened the clamps on the orange intake boot and it was trying to squeeze out and it is slightly oily. Not sure what the recommended torque is on those clamps but they do not need crazy tension for sure.

N_Jay

OK, that makes me feel better.

I will have to check the codes to see if anything was stored from the two "Limp Mode" situations. (they were a few weeks apart and both reset with a restart.)

I assume that I can see most of the codes with an OBD/CAN reader and don't need the MB specific diagnostics.

mitek

You can check Jeep WK forums for the ProVent DIY and a lot of other things concerning the V6 CDI (CRD in Jeeps terms but the same engine). When I had my Jeep, I just ran Greddy catch can, it worked as well as the ProVent. Some guys had issues with ProVent set up, the filters were plugging up or freezing up during the winter causing the system to overpressure and lose oil through the dipstick tube. The inlet turbo seal should be upgraded to the black seal asap, I did mine as soon as it came out and that saved me from the swirl motor repair. Good luck!

N_Jay

So what is the part number for the "Black" seal, as opposed the "Orange" seal.

I have also head mention of a "Green" or "Red" seal.

I figure I can clean in and around the 'swirl motor' with some "brake and electrical" spray cleaner.

N_Jay

Doing some more reading, it sounds like the black seal is for an updated (maybe upgraded) intake tube for the Jeep (and/or Sprinter), and des not replace the orange seal.

mitek

That is true, for Jeeps it came out as the upgraded seal but it had to come as a part of the new intake tube. I would believe that there is a similar upgrade for MB as well... As for the swirl motor, changing the seal early was the only preventative maintenance. It is either good or it fails. If it fails, I would suggest researching the resistor mode or software tune which "deletes" swirl motor function.

N_Jay

The motor (If I have the right part, is not too expensive ($150, or so).

It probably goes bad because it gets gummed up and can move, then burns out from trying.

So I don't see why clearing it will not prevent a future failure (assuming it is not already gone)

Is the Jeep intake tube exactly the same (A one-for-one replacement for the GL, or are there differences?

IF I was sure it was the same, I might spend the $100, else I will just get a new seal for $15.

mitek

I am not sure if the intake tube is the same... My guess would be that it is different.

bselph

I have been told that when you change air filters the computer needs to be reset. Is that true?

N_Jay

I have heard the same thing, but assume if they are not too clogged, the ECU should just relearn by itself.

I plan on changing the filters before I take it in for the oil change, and let make any adjustments.

alx

correct. otherwise your next "service c" will be miscalled and from there on the service requests will be a mess.

resetting the engine adaptations on the cdi motor after air filter replacement improves drivability, power and fuel economy.

N_Jay

Can the service reminder be set without the Star system?

Any sign that the ECU would not adapt over time?

alx

Engine adaptations are reset only via das.

There are pre and post air filter sensors and the delta is used to inject "air filter replacement" (service 4?) in the required services list which produces "service c" or higher.

I do not know specifics about the adaptations over time.

N_Jay

So if it has not told me I need a new air filter yet, then all is well with the change?

I figured if it was measuring intake pressure/vacuum, and making adjustments, it would need to tuner over time as the filter gets dirtier.
Changing before it clogged would just be a blip in the data.

N_Jay

Still looking for some more confirmation on this.

My dealer mentioned the reset, but really wondering how much "real World" difference it can make?