AndrewAdams211

So it seems as though I'm having the infamous air suspension problem

I am attempting to diagnose myself but if you guys (and gals if applicable) could help I would GREATLY appreciate it

In short............I park the car, both front shocks deflate to what I call "92 Acura Integra" status. It's ALL THE WAY down...to the point you can't see the top of the tire.

Then later I go to take off somewhere and it inflates fine when I jump in. Then after the first 4-5 miles...the front starts bouncing like a drifting car from Fast & Furious...UGH!!! If I push the "Raise" button to at least let it raise to regular height it says "Compressor Cooling Down" on the display.

Soooooo...what could be the problem?? I think if the shocks had a hole I would catch one side lower then the other, but that NEVER happens. It's always both. Any ideas?? I'm in NJ, and I'm planning to drive to Georgia next week...and I've GOT to get it addressed before then.

PLEASE HELP!!! :-/

mrchris

It can be both shocks leaking but maybe at different rates. Typically though the diagnostic tree is 1 corner dropping, its an air strut, both on the same axle its either both air struts or the valve block. All 4 drop and it is usually the pump.

If you are getting a compressor cooling down message then the leak is probably pretty significant. It's possible you've got a hose that has come loose or a combination of a valve block and a leaking strut.

If you are handy with a wrench, I'd replace both struts, valve block and compressor. If the compressor is overheating it probably isn't long for the world and you don't want it going out on a long road trip.

Otherwise find a good indy shop with experience with the airmatics. It's a pretty straightforward system and a good shop will diagnose and fix rather quickly and far cheaper than the dealer.

AndrewAdams211

Ok...thanks for the info. I dropped it off at the dealer yesterday for a proper diagnosis. Once I get that information this afternoon, I'll update everyone. Now...1 more question...is it possible to just replace the "air" part of the strut that sits on the top of the shock? Or does the ENTIRE part need replacement?

mrchris

Arnott makes a replacement kit that is effectively just the airbag but the dealer will not use that, they will install all new struts and they can be pricey. A good independent shop will typically use the Arnott units, price is much better and quality seems higher.

alx

valveblock or distribution hose.

shocks are prolly ok

AndrewAdams211

Well I just picked it up from the dealer...they want me to replace the 2 front struts. The diagnosis sheet says "Front airmatic struts are leaking, performed pneumatic test for airmatic. Compressor passed, both front air struts leak."

My question is...does the ENTIRE strut need replacing? Or just the airbag on the top? Does the strut disassemble that easily? I am going to order the strut tonight and have them here by Friday...looking at doing the job this weekend. Any special tools needed??

Thanks!!!!

mrchris

Only the airbag needs replacing. The dealer only sells complete struts.

The only source for a rebuild kit for the airbag is from Arnott. Here is a link to their video on youtube walking through the replacement. The rears are easy, fronts are a little more involved but doable by a decent wrencher.

alx

Lol. I have never seen both leaking at the same time, but i guess it might happen. Or the dealer is sandbagging you.

mrchris

Anytime you replace struts/shocks whether airmatic or your average hydraulic it is always recommended to replace both on the same axle to prevent any strange handling behavior or potential loss of control. I'm not sure how a new airmatic strut compares to a worn one but I do know with hydraulic struts it can cause some weird and potentially dangerous handling issues.

Also even if one isn't yet leaking odds are its had the same service life and will start leaking sooner than later. Why make an extra trip in a week or three to the dealer?

alx

not quite. while correct for regular shocks, wis does not say anywhere that both airmatic struts on the front or the bags in the back need to be replaced in pairs.

the only exception is that if you are using aftermarket rear bags you need to do them in pairs as the aftermarket bags are of different design and their characteristics are slightly different than oem which will lead to handling issues.

in regards to failing struts and useful life- your statement is also incorrect. i have seen quite a few airmatic strut failures and most of them get a new (one-side) strut and are never seen again for the second one (or come much later for the other).

ksdprasad

if you go with arnott. they are OEM without MB logo.

N_Jay

My understanding is the strut is a remanufactured OEM, and the air spring is Arnott specified (not OEM).

If you look on ebay you can find both New and Reman Bilstein (OEM) struts, as well as eth Arnott ones.

alx

correct. front arnotts are remans and can be done one at a time. rears are their own (better imo) design that should not be mixed with oem rear bags

AndrewAdams211

Hey everyone...just wanted to update you. This is the deal..I replaced my front shocks...everything was grrrrrrrrrrreat!! Key word..."was"...now we're back to problems.

My compressor is SCREAMING with this loud sound everytime I start it. Then I get the "Malfunction" on the dash. Looks as though my compressor is bad.

Just thought I'd mention...i'm PISSED at MB that they're doing S#!T to fix this!!! Apparently it's a common issue.

So my question is...I'll order one. Is it easy to install? Do I just remove the tire and black wheel well behind the bumper on the passenger side???

Are there any instructions anywhere on this??

Thanks Everyone!!

mrchris

It's a common issue because the airmatic compressor (and for that matter the struts too) are wear items. They have a pretty short life compared to coil spring based systems, the trade-off for a very posh ride in such a big heavy beast.

It's actually exceedingly common for the compressor to fail shortly after a leak, especially a prolonged leak. Under normal circumstances it runs for a few seconds here and there to top things off if need be. When you have a leak, especially a significant leak it's running frequently. When they constantly run or even run longer than expected they generate a lot of heat and fail quickly.

Also worth checking though is the relay, most indy shops replace the relay when the replace the compressor just because they are cheap and easy (takes like 10 seconds and costs about $12). IF the relay fails it can either keep the pump from running or more commonly keeps the pump running continuously.