Summit Benz

There were no cold cranking amps twice this winter. Sucked. Took an hour or so being jumped to turn over quick enough to start. I will check my voltage in the morning.

N_Jay

When you said it was dead, did it just crank too slow to start, or did it refuse to crank?


What was the temp?

Summit Benz

No crank. It was like -15f both times

N_Jay

Extremely cold temperatures can freeze a battery if it is already discharged. A frozen battery will fail quickly when thawed. (Since we have made it to August, I am guessing it was not frozen.)
Cold also drops the current producing capability of the battery while increasing the difficulty of turning over the engine.
My guess is the battery is not great, but you have an separate underlying problem, such as a loose or corroded connection somewhere between the battery of the starter and alternator.
Again, it could be on the hot side OR the ground side.
I would still ignore all the error codes, as with wide spread codes like that you are not looking at random errors created when the modules get low, and/or intermittent power.
1) Get the battery tested.
2) Check ALL the connections.
Hots from battery through a few connection points to the starter and alternator.
Grounds including the battery cables and engine / chassis ground straps.
3) Check to verify the alternator is putting out above 14V when running.

Critter

Any updates??

Summit Benz

So I was able to test the battery standing voltage. This morning after a 10 mile drive to work it read 12.6. After work before starting the car it was 12.5. So I guess it might be ok for now. Next is how to test the alternator??

I just printed some grounding wire diagrams to start looking...

I'm just still wondering about having to jump start the car twice if a loose ground would cause that or if the battery is indeed suspect?

N_Jay

Or the rear hatch did not latch in the cold are ran that battery down.

Summit Benz

So update time. I have replaced a bad glow plug module and that has taken care of almost everything. Now I am still getting the Electronic Stability Program (ESP164) under voltage Error code. So now I am looking into what else could be triggering that. Grounds still? I have not gotten through all grounding locations yet..

Summit Benz

Also could there be a link between me towing a trailer regularly and the ESP?

N_Jay

I tow and have no problem.

Summit Benz

I'm not saying because I tow a trailer there is the problem but I found this link to the ESP.

Trailer Stability Assist
Found this on the MBUSA website, does anyone know if it's a new feature or has the GL always had it. Does it work the way they say it does?

"A trailer in tow can adversely affect the driving dynamics of a vehicle. That's why the R, M and GL-Class are equipped with Trailer Stability Assist. Electronic Stability Program sensors monitor for oscillations caused by the trailer's movement. The system then intervenes by using the brakes to help stabilize the vehicle. Once ESP is satisfied that the vehicle and trailer are under control, braking intervention is ceased."

SO I'm saying what if there is a connection between some faulty wiring and the trailer 7 pin connector.? Hey I'm just trying to look into every possible connection to a low voltage error.

Critter

1. do you leave the trailer on the car for long periods of non use.
2. Is the trailer wiring factory installed or aftermarket.
3. Has the wiring been tampered with.
Is Is there an aftermarket trailer braking system added to the car for the trailer
Does the 7 pin have power all the time? any corrosion on or around the connector, disassemble to check

drgeeforce

I never jump a dead battery anymore, it cooks the voltage regulator. Your DTC involving multiple systems leads me to suspect the regulator as well.