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I have been snooping around this forum for some time now and have decided to start shopping for a 2012 GL350 Bluetec.
I have really appreciated reading some of the items on here, and no, I am not going to ask "should I purchase a GL350....ect.". My real question is this: I have found many GL's with under 40k mileage, they are asking about 44k for such examples. I am not worried about getting those examples for less, but if they are in and around 35-45k miles, what would you look for first?
I have a high technical skill level, maybe not experience in diesels, but in the automotive field. I have done all the work on my highly modified Subaru, and even build them here in Indiana. Even fixing the oil cooler does not seem like an insurmountable task. Although, I am ready to spend 40+k on a vehicle, I just wanted some tips as I shop around the next few weeks. (I see the first option in 2 days) I have always been around gently used imports and grew up with MB's and Jags that were a few years old, usually off lease, that we were able to enjoy because we got them a few years after they were new. I appreciate a vehicle that has staying power, my family has a 86 W126 with the 3.0 gasser and I love to drive that around and tinker with.
My use for this vehicle will be to eventually use it to tow around a weekend track toy, as my current toy is not living up to what my expectations. Not to mention this Truck will get better millage than my toy does currently and I do not have to fold into origami to fit into it. I am just ready for something a bit more comfortable.
I do own a 06 RR sport, so I am used to the few weekends a year fixing that thing, but it is such a jump from anything available in that class. The lady drives that, and I wanted something a bit more masculine, not to mention I am a MB fan all the way.
Shoot anything positive or negative pertaining to this search, and if its like any of the other very informative information I have found on this forum, I will take it seriously.
*Edit: yes I see I used "by" instead of "buy" haha
Last edited by LukkyStrike; 12-12-2014 at 04:59 AM.
This may be a dumb question, but if I were to purchase a vehicle still under the original warranty, could I purchase a MB extended warranty for the vehicle from a MB dealer?
Yes, you can get extended warranty from the dealer. There might be better options though.
You having work experience on a wretched cars the scoobies are will prepare you well for working on your Benz. You will need to purchase and become fluent in star/ das if you want to do your own work.
What specific questions you have? At this point the forum has pretty much most of the info you need to make your choice.
Yes, you can get extended warranty from the dealer. There might be better options though.
You having work experience on a wretched cars the scoobies are will prepare you well for working on your Benz. You will need to purchase and become fluent in star/ das if you want to do your own work.
What specific questions you have? At this point the forum has pretty much most of the info you need to make your choice.
I was wondering what trouble areas to look on the vehicle for items that may bite me. I know what services should be done at this point, but just the small things that may help my decision.
2011 and earlier have a greater propensity to oil cooler gasket leaks.
Other than that, I would look for the best maintained least abused vehicle you can find.
More miles and less obvious wear might mean more highways miles which are way better than city miles.
Too low a mileage may mean lots of short drives which are hard on the engine and exhaust system.
Good but worn tires show you the vehicle is in alignment, brand new tires hide that info.
You sound like you're buying one for the same reasons I did. At this point a 2012 is still under warranty. Buy the one with the options that you want that apears to have been maintained properly and taken care of. Most of them have been dealer serviced as diy is not terribly common with these. I've not had any issues working on mine so far including some electeical work, but once the warranty is up I'll be investing in a das tool since I have long term plans for the vehicle.
Well after much consideration, we have decided to go with the 450. I was looking at a 5-6k premium for the oil burners, and really could not find one around me that was worth it. We test drove 2 and the other had some major issues with it (looks like it had paint done, windshield was replaced, and major damage to the A-Post trim that made me think that none of it was done at a reputable shop and none of it was on the CarFax which makes me think the shady dealer bought it broken and tried to pass it as a high end example. Luckily that I build new cars for a living and can see this stuff) and wanted a premium for it. The dude had the audacity to tell me "are you trying to buy a new vehicle", its really too bad I did not take pictures, but this guy was asking to lose his front teeth, especially since I had over 20k on me to put down on the vehicle.
We actually found a 2012 450 at a Honda dealer (trade in) that happened to be a CA car. The best dealer out of the 5 that we visited, and the best price for my trade and the 450.
I am VERY happy with the purchase, although, a bit disappointed that none of the 3 diesels were worth while or way over my budget. I thought of waiting but in all honesty the 3 or 4 MPG would mean over 3 years (at how much I drive) to pay back the difference of 5 or 6K I would have to pay. So I would need to hit about 45k miles or a 2011, its too bad but I am happy.
Ended up being a Black on Black, 38k miles, VERY clean car, new brake pads, 90% tread on the tires, and perfect paint. Every other car had something that were items on my annoyance list, this was the only one that did not draw my eye to anything and was at least a grand less than the others. It does not have: the heated steering wheel, heated rear seats, no rear entertainment, or the blind spot monitor. But it does have the items that were on my wish list. As a bonus, the previous owners have not canceled their Sat. Radio
Is the auto dim LH mirror an option or do they all have that? I guess I drove the others in daylight, only this one at dusk/night.
Does it have a hitch? Some of the options that you find on these is interesting, some have nice equipment but are missing something like xenon lights or something.
You going to go through the fluids on it? I changed all of my diffs and transfer case on my 350 and all of them needed it I think from the looks of the fluid.
Does it have a hitch? Some of the options that you find on these is interesting, some have nice equipment but are missing something like xenon lights or something.
You going to go through the fluids on it? I changed all of my diffs and transfer case on my 350 and all of them needed it I think from the looks of the fluid.
enjoy...
Yes it has the hitch. And the better rims. Other than that it seems to be the P1 extra pack.
I am going to go through the truck after the holidays close...been a bit crazy. At least I got to take it on a 240mi road trip in it, and I could not be happier. I have to say its the most pleasant truck I have been in on the highway.
Also, need a new jack. Mine barely gets the RR sport up.
...I am VERY happy with the purchase, although, a bit disappointed that none of the 3 diesels were worth while or way over my budget. I thought of waiting but in all honesty the 3 or 4 MPG would mean over 3 years (at how much I drive) to pay back the difference of 5 or 6K I would have to pay. So I would need to hit about 45k miles or a 2011, its too bad but I am happy...
I did a huge amt of research on used GL350 MPG and found the diesels achieved higher MPGs than EPA estimates. My 2010 gets 18 city, 31 hwy, 24 combined. The same year gasser gets 13city/17hwy, so I calculated my 38K/yr driving, I break even on the 4.8k premium after 2.5 years, based solely on EPA numbers. Real world driving, I broke even after 1.3 years.
I did a huge amt of research on used GL350 MPG and found the diesels achieved higher MPGs than EPA estimates. My 2010 gets 18 city, 31 hwy, 24 combined. The same year gasser gets 13city/17hwy, so I calculated my 38K/yr driving, I break even on the 4.8k premium after 2.5 years, based solely on EPA numbers. Real world driving, I broke even after 1.3 years.
Tow and you break even by the middle of the first hill!
Before 22" wheels, my GL450 averaged 17.7 mpg for the first 50K miles. On the hwy, I would get 20 and in town was around 14. If I went to 18's, I could average over 18 mpg. The GL450 runs fine on regular so you should use that as a true comparison. I've run regular for a.very long time. After figuring everything out and with the difference in fuel costs, the picture is not as rosy.
The diesel will have better resale but, judging by the forums, you will have significantly greater costs per mile in maintenance. If you get a diesel, go with the 320 since they seem to be more reliable than the 2009+ GL diesels.
Before 22" wheels, my GL450 averaged 17.7 mpg for the first 50K miles. On the hwy, I would get 20 and in town was around 14. If I went to 18's, I could average over 18 mpg. The GL450 runs fine on regular so you should use that as a true comparison. I've run regular for a.very long time. After figuring everything out and with the difference in fuel costs, the picture is not as rosy.
The diesel will have better resale but, judging by the forums, you will have significantly greater costs per mile in maintenance. If you get a diesel, go with the 320 since they seem to be more reliable than the 2009+ GL diesels.
Wondering what you include in the additional maintenance cost for the Diesel?
Wondering what you include in the additional maintenance cost for the Diesel?
If he goes with the Bluetec, will be any costs associated with that system: ad blue heater tank issues,, clogged adbluelines, adding adblue. Potential oil cooler leaks on the earlier ones, frequent fuel filter changes, and possibly timing chain Iissues, fuel contamination issues........ I'm sure there are more costs but I would have to do more research to be definitive.
The costs can be a REAL buzz kill with one bad diesel tank. You have killed all savings times 5 if you get fuel contamination. I think we have seen more issues with that along with timing chain issues and oil leaks and bad oil level sensors.
I did a huge amt of research on used GL350 MPG and found the diesels achieved higher MPGs than EPA estimates. My 2010 gets 18 city, 31 hwy, 24 combined. The same year gasser gets 13city/17hwy, so I calculated my 38K/yr driving, I break even on the 4.8k premium after 2.5 years, based solely on EPA numbers. Real world driving, I broke even after 1.3 years.
this assumes you are driving 38k a year. I am not even considering breaking 12k a year. This extends that by a significant margin, and that must be considered since you are increasing it by a factor of 3 therefore a 4 year pay back by your math.
Its really to bad, if the US would catch up on their diesel tax laws none of this would even be a question. BUT, at no point in recent time has diesel been less than $1.00 more than gasoline making the increases in mileage mute.
I wanted a diesel, but since I do not tow and I put very low miles on my vehicles, it did not make sense in the long run. I paid a very good price for my 450, if it were not for that I would have continued to look for a 350. If I put 17k+ on the vehicle or consistently towed I would have passed on this example.
as for the maintenance costs, just the run flats would mean a couple of hundred dollars extra in replacements, not to mention the stricter preventative maintenance schedules. The diesel seems to cost about 200+ dollars more a trip to the shop, meaning at least 200 bucks more a year, again helping the gasoline cause.
I really wanted to be able to buy my first diesel, the issue is when you do the math, low mileage requirements negate the positives. If i drove 38k miles or more, I would have a Honda beater getting 30+mpg to drive 20k of that and my Truck for the rest. I just do not put those kinds of miles, it took me 5 years to put 35k on my last ride.
NOT $1.00 per gallon here (Pacific NW). According to Gas Buddy for my town the lowest REGULAR gas is $2.26/gal and diesel is $2.79 -- difference of $0.53/gal. It has been about about the same differential for several years now. AND, the gasser engines are supposed to be fed PREMIUM 92 octane fuel which happens to be $2.41/gal -- $0.38/gal differential.
The GL450 runs fine on regular. I've been running it for a very long time without issues. At almost 200k miles, I don't have to add any oil at 10,000 mile change intervals. This is a really amazing engine so far.
NOT $1.00 per gallon here (Pacific NW). According to Gas Buddy for my town the lowest REGULAR gas is $2.26/gal and diesel is $2.79 -- difference of $0.53/gal. It has been about about the same differential for several years now. AND, the gasser engines are supposed to be fed PREMIUM 92 octane fuel which happens to be $2.41/gal -- $0.38/gal differential.
Since I drive mostly city, but do drive the 240mi round trip to Chitown about 1 once a month month, I will use 20mpg for CDI and 15mpg for the gasser (my tuck states 16.2mpg for the last 500mi which included a trip to Chitown).
at the same station in my area, 93: 2.35, Diesel: 2.69
15k/15mpg= 1000 Gallons of fuel @ an assumed $2.35 a Gallon = $2350.00
15k/20mpg= 750 Gallons of fuel @ an assumed $2.69 a Gallon = $2017.50
Difference: $332.50 a year.
at about 4k price difference for the same year with same miles to the gassers, it would take a long time to make up the difference. Its no joke though, that would pay most of my registration or more than one months payment.
yes, at extreme miles it does start to make more sense, but I probably will not hit 10,000 miles this year, let alone the next 5 or so years I own the truck.
I also will have to concede my incorrect assumption of a dollar more. But there have been times when I have seen that difference in price.
12-12-2014, 04:25 AM
Looking to by my first Bluetec
